So I recently purchased some JDM (I think JDM) fog lights on eBay for dirt cheap. That install itself had its headaches, but I eventually installed them and they worked for the most part. The only problem with them was the switch never worked. I always have to keep the switch in the on position so that the lights will turn on and off with the cars ignition.

The switch problem is not a big deal, especially because I want my fog lights to always be on. No matter what time of day or weather it is.

Now then, I bought a 9006 8000K HID kit for the fogs. Installed easily and they both individually worked when testing.

Here is the problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjM4gDLa4bA

When the key in the ignition is switched to the ON position (engine off), both HIDs are on. When I then switch the key to the start and then ON position (engine on), both HIDs are off.

When the key in the ignition is switched to the ON position (engine on), only the right HID (looking at front of car from outside) is on and works. However, when starting the car, the left HID flashes on for a second and remains off.

The only way to keep the left HID on while the car is running is to open up the hood, look for the wiring harness connector for the balast, and reconnect it. You must do this while the car is on and running and the left HID will stay on.


What could be causing this problem? Is it possible the car startup is causing sporadic amounts of electrical flow to the ballast? Remember, ALWAYS turn on when the key is set to the ON position. The switch supplied for the fogs does not work.

Any help and advice would be appreciated.

UPDATE******* So I found a solution to the problem and boy is it a mickey mouse solution.

For those who may have these problems:
My JDM switch has a power control wire that extends from it and is able to control the entire power. If no current flows from the power control wire into the switch, then it will be unable to activate and turn on.

Now then, I plugged my power control wire into one of the available fuses under the steering column. This fuse activates when the ignition is in the ON position. So, the problem listed above must have been irregular electricity flow to the ballasts. So what I did was cut the power control wire and I bought a standard SPST rocker switch at a local radioshack. Attached both ends to the switch and wrapped with electrical tape. It is best to solder it all but I dont have those capabilities.

So, that is the switch I now use to activate the fog lights once my engine is on and runnning. Now both HIDs work with this switch, but it is a pain to always flip it on and off when starting and shutting off the car. at least it works, and that is all i care.

 

u need to leave ur fogs off when engine is off

when u turn ur car on engine running put the switch on

also i recommend u getting a relay harness for ur hids

 

also video is not workin

 

Well that is what I would like to do but as I said, the switch does not work.

For some reason, my switch seems to not be able to toggle my fogs on and off. Here's what happens. I have the switch in the ON position, car is off. Turn on car. Fogs turn on when car is on. Toggle the switch to off. Fogs turn off. Car is still running. Toggle switch AGAIN to ON. Fogs stay off.

The switch doesn't allow current to flow when turning on and off.

There is a relay pre-installed with my JDM fog light wiring harness

 

yeah, its still processing. for some reason it is taking a long time

 

I need to figure out a way to wire up some HID ballasts to work with my parking lights, I know a way using a relay, but I think I'd need a pretty good relay.

 

Sounds like a power drop , re-wire it with a relay with power directly from battery with your ing switch turning on the relay.

If your going this far , check your wires on the fog switch , making sure you wired the power wires to the switch correctly and not just the light in the switch.

if you still have a problem , take it to someone that knows electrical or you could be in trouble ( read too much power draw electrical fire being the worst case )

 

your switch has 3 wires in the back correct?

where did you connect them to?

 

There is a relay supplied with the wiring harness and it connects directly to the battery.

Yes, my wiring on the switch is all correct. In fact, I never wired the light in the switch because I didn't need it, nor want to hassle with it.

Yeah, I might do that.

 

for more information about the wiring harness install, see my other thread: https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=193291

 

I want to power 4 ballasts, one for my lows and one for my fogs up to the battery, and using a relay to trigger them. I got it working for the lows but they quit working after a couple days. I don't know if I should use a thicker gauge wire, higher amped relay (used 40A), or a better fused power wire to the battery.

Here's my video ajcadoo, it's using a relay to trigger HID low beams.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDNre2Nm6vU

 

I had an identical problem with my HID headlights in mine. Had ballasts prematurely fail, if I had the lights on when starting, the same HID bulb would be off after starting nearly every time. I even had my bulbs winking out from time to time while driving. Mine are also connected straight to the battery with a relay switch. I was getting so fed up with HIDs, I almost gave up and went back to stock bulbs (ewww).

Now the solution was unexpected for me. Car batteries in Florida last about 2 years at best. I was on year 3. I had my battery tested, and confirmed it was starting to get iffy. I found a great deal for a 720 (or 740) CCA battery. After replacing my car battery, problems went away and have not had any issues since.

Don't know if it was because the factory battery was starting to fail, or if the higher amps fixed it. But my constant HID headaches went away instantly.

Hope this helps.

BTW, couldn't help but notice your XB sounds a bit deeper and I hear a loud hiss/suction noise from the engine. Do you have an exhaust and intake mods? Or is my stock engine not sounding like a stock engine anymore?

 

Wow, thank you.

I have the original battery in my '05, 101,600 mile xB. I know I should get a new one sono, possibly before winter. It only had trouble starting once.

Yeah, if you're talking about my box, I have a big K&n filter CAI, it SUCKS, haha.

 

Yes, the low noise in the interior is from my exhaust. the hiss noise is from my short ram air intake. that hiss is very loud. your stock engine probably sounds fine.

thanks for the help.

 

Optima Yellow (or RED) top battery here we come! (nobody has Optimas in stock where I live )

****I just got a Duralast Gold battery for $92. ** 640 cold cranking Amps (800 cranking Amps) It says it lasts 8 years!