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Will 7 inch door speakers fit a 2008 XB?

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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 08:14 PM
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Default Will 7 inch door speakers fit a 2008 XB?

I have a set of Dynaudio 240 MK II components and was wondering if that would fit in my 2008 XB.
Thanks in advance.
Old Dec 23, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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probably. might take a little work though.
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 12:07 AM
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Short answer is yes.

Long answer is you will need to drill out the stock speakers as they are riveted to the door. At this point you can see if the Dyn's will be able to bolt to the sheet metal directly in the existing opening. If they do, great you are done. If they don't then the hole is either to large or too small. If too large you will need to make a mounting plate that mimics the existing mount and has the correct size hole cut out in it. If it is too small then you can trim away some of the sheet metal to make the Dyn's fit and screw them in. This is what I ended up doing to get my 8" Daytons in the doors. I'll eventually make a mounting plate to bring them forward a bit so I can cut the stock grill out and make a nice custom set up to show the speakers.
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 12:41 AM
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small world, a set of the exact same speakers came through my pawnshop today and was wanting to know the same thing but for a tc, if you dont mind me asking what did you give for them?
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 01:41 AM
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I didn't try anything that big, but I believe the opening is actually almost 8 inches. I will more than likely never remove the speakers I installed (Infinity Reference 6.75" coaxials) so I butchered the OEM speaker which is made of plastic and used the whole basket/flange to mount the new aftermarket speakers back into the door opening. If those won't work, you could always get some 3/16" or slightly thicker acrylic and create your own adapter flanges. There is a lot of room between the sheetmetal and the door panel if I remember correctly so a thicker flange won't cause any issues. It is one of the more bizarre factory speaker installs I have seen, the rivets were a noodle baker. " Why in the ____ did they use rivets on a part they KNOW will get customized??" is what I thought when I saw the speaker for the first time...
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Murphys_Law
small world, a set of the exact same speakers came through my pawnshop today and was wanting to know the same thing but for a tc, if you dont mind me asking what did you give for them?
That's funny because I got them with my TC. I bought a used 05 TC a few years ago and the previous owner had bought the speakers, but never installed them before selling the car.
I worked out a deal with him to get them with the car, but I also never installed them. I had a whole new sound system put in the TC, but never tried the Dynaudio speakers because of their size.
From the responses here I may end up just selling along with the other stuff I have left over from the TC.
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tealtoaster
..." Why in the ____ did they use rivets on a part they KNOW will get customized??" ...
That's a good point. I didn't know they used rivets on the speakers for the XB. That is pretty counter productive.
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 03:01 AM
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The Dynaudios are very good speakers, if you are running an amp they will sound great with a little work to put them in.
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 04:53 AM
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awesome, ill pick up the set at work weve got
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Murphys_Law
awesome, ill pick up the set at work weve got
Dagnabit. I was just going to ask if you would be willing to sell them. I want to try something out from Dynaudio. More like the Esotec 362's... I'd figure something out for the 3 way.

Anyway... I'd personally make a baffle that bolts to the door, then allows you to screw the speaker to. Also, I would most certainly deaden the doors. I recommend SecondSkin's Damplifier Pro. I LOVE that stuff. Adding the baffle (3/4" MDF in my case) gives the speaker a solid mounting location. The metal is extremely flimsy and I feel it could use a lot of dampening.

Let us know the results!
Old Dec 24, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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ill pick em up and if i abandon the idea or move on ill PM you
Old Dec 25, 2010 | 07:47 AM
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You won't need anything fancy to mount the drivers. Acrylic is easy to work with, but tends to be brittle (regular twist drill bits, if pressed to hard, will bind and crack the acrylic easily). 3/8 birch plywood works well, just give it a few coats of spray paint. For a really finished look, rout a rabbet (groove) to flush the speaker rims into the mounting panel. No one will see it (unless you photograph it and show us), but you'll know it's there. Also, run a ring of foam around the speaker's rim to seal the space between the driver panel and the interior door panel.

The Dyna speakers do like a lot of clean power to sound well, so don't cheap out on the amp. Good heavy wires help too. Dyna-audio drivers are used in many upper mid to high end home speakers, and the 240's have a direct link to them. Expect very smooth detailed sound from them, with midrange clarity that will make brave men weep. Do not, please do not, play MP3's with anything less that 196K bit rate. Yeah, it takes up a lot of room on the iPod/Phone, but it's worth the sound.

As to the use of rivets for the stock speakers, it's a production ease issue. They got on fast, easy and stay tight. It's not really hard to drill them out.
Old Dec 25, 2010 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KaneoheKoa
It's not really hard to drill them out.
I'm gonna have to disagree with you there. They kept spinning. Drill them at an angle and they don't spin, but make sure you don't go so much at an angle that you make a hole in the metal next to the rivet hole.
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 02:29 AM
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See? It wasn't that hard,was it? Yeah, they were a bit of a pain, but I think I used pliers to hold them in place when I did mine. A whole lot easier than running 12ga wires through the door's wire harness covering.
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 04:26 AM
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I've always just used a large drill bit, usually 3/8-1/2" on them and they come right out. It basically tears the flat top right off and then you can push the rest of the rivet out the back of the hole. I've found that brute force works great when taking cars apart.
Old Dec 27, 2010 | 06:34 AM
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Brute force? Dang, now I have to buy a bigger sledge hammer for the bigger repairs.
I've found that SAE 30 oil is great when drilling into metal like rivets: keeps the drill bit cool, lubes the cutting edge and floats the metal slag away. I also vacuum up any metal that falls into the door, just to reduce the chance of rust starting down there.
Old Dec 27, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KaneoheKoa
Brute force? Dang, now I have to buy a bigger sledge hammer for the bigger repairs.
Hell yeah!

No actually it just I spent so many years as an installer for a living that I've learned exactly what a part will take before it breaks. Really scares people sometimes when they see me start taking a car apart and they think a piece is going to break. It won't but only becasue I know when the snaps are that hold it in place.
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