This should answer most of the oil related questions.

The company I work for in Staten Island is an ExxonMobil oil distrubtor and we also do the distrubting for Toyota's OEM Oil for NY/NJ.

TOYOTA DEALERSHIPS & OIL
Toyotas OEM Motor Oil & ATF is made ExxonMobil. ExxonMobil makes the oil to meet the Toyota Spec and packages it in Toyota packaging.
Toyota has OEM 5w30, 10w30 & ATF.

Lets start with the basics.

Toyota reccomends 5w30 on all NEW still under warranty cars ... For higher mileage they reccomend 10w30. The only different is that a 5w30 that oil will act like a 5 weight is cold weather and a 30 weight in warm weather. With a 10w30, in cold weather the oil will act like a 10 weight and in warm weather it will act like a 30 weight. There is no big difference in the oils. The 5w30 is a little thiner of an oil in cold weather but nothing that will be noticable unless you live in a climate where its below 0 all the time ... Running 10w30 in your new car is fine you wont run into problems but it is reccomend that 5w30 is used.

All Toyota dealerships buy OEM Toyota 5w30, 10w30 & ATF in Cases ... The bigger Toyota dealership have 5w30, 10w30 & ATF in bulk tanks ... Some of the smaller ones have only 5w30 or 10w30 & ATF in bulk ...

Now here is where it gets tricky ...

Not all Toyota dealerships are on the Toyota OEM BULK Motor Oil Program .. .which means if they are NOT on the program they have non-Toyota Spec 5w30, 10w30 & ATF in their bulk tanks ... If they ARE on the program they have Toyota Spec OEM 5w30, 10w30 & ATF in their bulk tanks. Toyota does NOT require each dealership to buy the OEM BULK 5w30, 10w30 & ATF but they will not warranty the engine or tranny if OEM 5w30, 10w30 & ATF is not used on cars still under warranty.

THE FIRST OIL CHANGE
For oil changes it is always best to follow Toyotas Reccomendations. You will get different answers from different people on when should do the first change should be. The only correct answer is follow what is reccomended. Some people have done the 1st oil change as soon as when they go home from the dealership and some have done it at 5k. Remember Toyota built the engine and they know best.

I am not gonna debate on which brand of oil is better or worse this is just a breif run down of the different oils and some reccomendations

CONVENTIONAL OIL
It is always reccemended to change conventional oil between 3000-5000 miles. Their is minimal anti-ware & cleaning additives in conventional oil. This oil in most cases will not hold up & protect past 3000-5000 miles.

SYNTHETIC BLEND OIL
Synthetic Blend formulas are a blend of premium conventional base fluids and a high-performance synthetic fluid. Also, these formulas offer an extra level of cleaning agents versus conventional oil. These oil changes are reccomended from 5000-7500 miles.

SYNTHETIC OIL
Yes Synthetic oil is better for your car. Yes you can go longer on oil change drains. Reccomended drains range from 7,500 miles / 6 months to 15,000 miles / 1 year depending on which oil company you go with. Yes it will help with getting better gas mileage. NO it will not fix internal engine problems. Again I am not gonna debate on which brand of synthetic oil is better or worse so I will just talk about Synthetic Oil in general. Just remember that with Synthetic oil if you are going to be extending your drains you should get a high quality oil filter that can handle the extended drains.

WHY SYNTHETICS
Conventional oils come from crude oil that is pumped from the ground. Crude oil is made up of a complex mixture of molecules that form chains and rings of different sizes and shapes. Long chains of carbon atoms produce a thick, viscous fluid that flows slowly. Shorter chains produce fluid that flows more readily.

In an oil refinery, crude oil is separated into various fractions. These become the basis for lubricating oils and fuels. Thick tangled masses of carbon chains become asphaltic materials used in roofing tar and road work. Very short chains and ring compounds of carbon are volatile and can be refined to produce gasoline and other products.

While petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur and reactive hydrocarbons, cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and may end up in motor oil base stocks.

All motor oils are made up of base oils and additives. In general, fully synthetic motor oils contain non-conventional, high-performance fluids. Synthetic blends usually use some non-conventional, high-performance fluids in combination with conventional oil.

To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications Synthetic Oil uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with more additives then conventional. Each viscosity grade (5w30, 10w30, etc.) uses a unique combination of synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application.

WHAT BRAND OF MOTOR OIL OUTSIDE OF TOYOTA SHOULD I USE?
If you ask what brand of motor oil to use outside of OEM Toyota you will get different answers from different people. I say use Mobil, other people say use Royal Purple, some people sale use Valvoline, some people say use Amsoil, etc. ... There is no right or wrong answer on which oil to use outside of OEM Toyota Oil. The best thing to do is so some research on each brand and see what floats your boat the most. Also you can call your Toyota dealership and ask what they reccomend for motor oil.

Here are some links to a few oil companys ... Do your own research and use what you think is best

www.mobil1.com www.exxon.com www.valvoline.com www.royalpurple.com www.amsoil.com www.shell.com www.castrol.com www.quakerstate.com www.penzoil.com

This should answer just about all of the oil questions. The best bet is to always follow what is reccomended from the factory. If you have any questions you can ask here!

:clap:

:bow:

:relief: finally!

We needed that! Thanks!

Thanks for the praise guys! As I think of more things to add ill add them but I hit on pretty much everything Motor Oil wise ...

I've heard if you switch to synthetic its bad to go back to conventional. Is this right?

is that dude in the picture jerking off his nose? :rofl:

I've heard if you switch to synthetic its bad to go back to conventional. Is this right?

Its not bad to go back but if you are going to switch to synthetic is it best that you stick with it. Putting synthetic oil in your car for 1 oil change will do nothing for you. You get the full benifits of synthetic oil when you stick with it through all your oil changes!

is that dude in the picture jerking off his nose? :rofl:
Yes its a cartoon of Chris from the band Slipknot, he wears a mask with a long noise and he's always jerkin it!

Great info! The one part that they do leave out is the fact that if you wait one year to change your oil, you will have one year of fuel vapor and condensate built up in your oil system, regardless of what kind of oil you use!!! The oil can go that long without breaking down, but you still have the engine byproducts. But.... I know people will argue... change it when you like

Great info! The one part that they do leave out is the fact that if you wait one year to change your oil, you will have one year of fuel vapor and condensate built up in your oil system, regardless of what kind of oil you use!!! The oil can go that long without breaking down, but you still have the engine byproducts. But.... I know people will argue... change it when you like

Each oil company is different. For instance Amsoil says 7,500 miles or 6 months on their Synthetic, Mobil says 15,000 miles or 1 year on their Extended Performance Synthetic ... It all depends on which synthetic oil you go for. I will edit that part of my post.

Thanks Lavabox.

The point I was making is it doesnt matter what kind of oil you use. It will not prevent the normal engine byproducts from building up. These are part of what you are getting rid of by changing your oil. I will go longer with synthetic.... but no more than 6,000 miles. Even though the oil is still in good shape at that point, there are still buildups that need to be removed. Like I said, I dont want to start another oil change argument, but that is something that most people leave out (especially oil companys trying to sell their long life oil) when considering the time between oil changes.

The point I was making is it doesnt matter what kind of oil you use. It will not prevent the normal engine byproducts from building up. These are part of what you are getting rid of by changing your oil. I will go longer with synthetic.... but no more than 6,000 miles. Even though the oil is still in good shape at that point, there are still buildups that need to be removed. Like I said, I dont want to start another oil change argument, but that is something that most people leave out (especially oil companys trying to sell their long life oil) when considering the time between oil changes.

I understand what you are saying but Synthetic oil is made to handle thoes extra biproducts and also stop harmful build ups. Im sure mobil took into account that there will be some biproducts and would not have said 15,000 miles or 1 year if the oil would not stand up. Same thing with Amsoil they say 7,500 miles or 6 months and im sure they took into account the biproducts.

Great info LavaBox!

I love synthetic, but if you plan on using synthetic oil, plan on changing the oil yourself. If you go to an oil place like Valvoline or Jiffy Lube you will pay a ridiculous amount of money to get your oil changed. Another thing about synthetic oil is that you have to willing to spend about $40 per oil change for all of the necessary crap (i.e. performance filter, the oil itself, and a pan to catch the oil) that goes along with it.

You do not need a new pan to catch any oil ... if someone sold you an new oil pan then you need to go get your money back ... ALSO you do not need a performance filter. It is reccomended but not a requirment. Synthetic oil is expensive but you are paying for a better quality oil with better protection and more cleaning additives.

i don't think he meant an oil pan for the car...

but rather when changing the oil yourself, the bucket or pan you drain the oil into...

Good info LB, thanks for sharing.

I signed up for the "Toyota Extended Auto Care" (I think
that's what it was called) where they do all the oil changes
for me for the 5 years of the auto loan. I doubt I could talk
them into synthetics, but I do love synth. Mobile 1 is what
comes in all the new Porsche, and what I've been using for
years. My SAAB (before it was hit and totaled) had 330,000
miles on it when it died! Probably would have hit 400,000
if I was careful!

The point I was making is it doesnt matter what kind of oil you use. It will not prevent the normal engine byproducts from building up. These are part of what you are getting rid of by changing your oil. I will go longer with synthetic.... but no more than 6,000 miles. Even though the oil is still in good shape at that point, there are still buildups that need to be removed. Like I said, I dont want to start another oil change argument, but that is something that most people leave out (especially oil companys trying to sell their long life oil) when considering the time between oil changes.

I understand what you are saying but Synthetic oil is made to handle thoes extra biproducts and also stop harmful build ups. Im sure mobil took into account that there will be some biproducts and would not have said 15,000 miles or 1 year if the oil would not stand up. Same thing with Amsoil they say 7,500 miles or 6 months and im sure they took into account the biproducts.

I have just seen some pretty sludgy looking motors from going 7500 miles like the oil company said....

The point I was making is it doesnt matter what kind of oil you use. It will not prevent the normal engine byproducts from building up. These are part of what you are getting rid of by changing your oil. I will go longer with synthetic.... but no more than 6,000 miles. Even though the oil is still in good shape at that point, there are still buildups that need to be removed. Like I said, I dont want to start another oil change argument, but that is something that most people leave out (especially oil companys trying to sell their long life oil) when considering the time between oil changes.

I understand what you are saying but Synthetic oil is made to handle thoes extra biproducts and also stop harmful build ups. Im sure mobil took into account that there will be some biproducts and would not have said 15,000 miles or 1 year if the oil would not stand up. Same thing with Amsoil they say 7,500 miles or 6 months and im sure they took into account the biproducts.

I have just seen some pretty sludgy looking motors from going 7500 miles like the oil company said....

Maybe if you are using conventional oil ... That is why they say don't go more then 5,000 miles on conventional oil ... You will not see a "sludgy" engine that is using a semi-synthetic or a fully synthetic going 7500 miles on their oil changes ... the only way you will see a "sludgy" engine is if there are existing engine problems.

AND you oil filter is there to remove anything harmful in the oil ... that is why there is an oil filter on the car ... some of your cheap oil filters will collapse after 3-5k but if you are using a good quality oil filter they will last way beond that ...
My dad uses Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 oil filter in his LX470 and he goes 20k on his oil changes and the filter does not collapse and there is no engine problems the truck is still running stong after over 100k on the engine!

there is some great info there. For a more in depth discussion on lubricants check out
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

I love synthetic, but if you plan on using synthetic oil, plan on changing the oil yourself. If you go to an oil place like Valvoline or Jiffy Lube you will pay a ridiculous amount of money to get your oil changed. Another thing about synthetic oil is that you have to willing to spend about $40 per oil change for all of the necessary crap (i.e. performance filter, the oil itself, and a pan to catch the oil) that goes along with it.

The cost vs benefit debate has been beaten to death over the years, but I'll give the short version:

5,000 mile oil change, conventional oil, WalMart/Jiffy Lube: about $20

15,000 miles with this ^^^ oil change, $60 (3 @ $20)

15,000 miles (or higher *amsoil*) with synthetic: $40-50.

$60 vs $50... synthetic is still cheaper.

I have seen Mobil 1 Synthetic oil changes for as low as $39.99 and as high as $69.99 (mercedes shop). Synthetic are just plain better for your engine. They have more cleaning agents, more anti-ware agents and will not break down under extreme conditions. Which ever brand you go with Synthetic oil is better. Synthetic oil has also been proven to increase your gas mileage which is also a big +. If you factor in increased gas mileage & better protection Synthetic oil is a no brainer and should be used!

another thing that is worth mentioning...when your motor reaches full operating temp the fuel vapors in the crankcase wind up getting burned off anyway due to the PCV Valve...fuel build up in oil only ocurs when your driving consists of short drives that do not let the engine heat to proper temps...

great info!

From what I've been reading, Im wondering how often I should change my oil. It takes me almost 6 months to rack up 3000 miles. I drive every day but the trips are usually only like 5 miles each way. I use Mobil 1 synthetic and OEM toyota filter.

you can longer than 3 mos. also I would buy extneded drain interval oil.....

Great info. I get my first 3 oil changes from the dealership for free. After that I plan on running synthetic.

Thinkin the same thing. I want to use up my free maintanence at the dealership, then I want to take care of maintenence by myself when I can. That's why I'm here, browsin for filter/oil/other suggestions :D

Sean

Thanks for the great information.
I got 20 quarts of MaxLife engine oil. They were suppose to be for my old corsica. Could I use them in my tC then switch to Synthetic?

I had a friend tell me to change my oil at 500 miles and then again at 1000, then i can start the normal every 3000 mile change. Opinions?

The "hard" info I could offer is from textbooks many years old. Synthetic oil development began in Nazi Germany.

-The earlier inputs include worries that the oil, no matter from which base, should be changed on a relatively frequent basis


-It is a fact (I do beleive) that synthetic oils are -oilier- (more like lard oil = gold standard for greaseyness) than petroleum oils. I don't think this statement can be nullified. It's always been true that petroleum oils are not so -oily- as castor or sperm oil or even rape (canola) oil.

Now, the fact is, too, that multivis petroleum stock oils get most of their multivis rating by the additions of large amounts of "VI" improvers (viscosity index). These things don't -add- to the oilyness of petro oil.

Synthetic oils are "all oil" plus the necessary anti-corrosion and anti-scuff protectants which must also be added to petro oils -perhaps in even larger amounts (?) that to engineered synthetics.

Try washing your hands of synthetic oil, compared against petroleum based oil to see what I mean by "more oily"

---One thing this thread lacks is a basic tretise on -how oils lubricate in the engine-. Such an essay is key in understanding how it is that the relatively inferior petroleum lube oils are -just fine for our engins- and that synthetics are "better" but not crucial to obtaining very long and trouble free engine life.

Such an essay would go a long way towards understaning how oils work for us.

I can't quite accept yet that sythetics carry much larger additive loads than petro oils, unless their (the syns) lack of needin tons of VI improvers, somehow leaves more room for more of the vital surfactants, dispersants, anti-scuffs and acid neutralizers, which -doped up petro oil just does not have all that much "room" to accomodate on account of it's already inferior oilyness quotient.

rhetorical question:: what does the 'w" mean in the multivis rating system? There's no such thing as "30 weight" oil in engineering circles. The w does not stand for "weight" at all.

best thoughts.. lots of typos 'cus I did not proof or edit.. thanks for reading through the crap.


r

thanks, great info :)

Now here is where it gets tricky ...

"Not all Toyota dealerships are on the Toyota OEM BULK Motor Oil Program .. .which means if they are NOT on the program they have non-Toyota Spec 5w30, 10w30 & ATF in their bulk tanks ... If they ARE on the program they have Toyota Spec OEM 5w30, 10w30 & ATF in their bulk tanks. Toyota does NOT require each dealership to buy the OEM BULK 5w30, 10w30 & ATF but they will not warranty the engine or tranny if OEM 5w30, 10w30 & ATF is not used on cars still under warranty."
__________________________________________

I'm looking at a oil change receipt for my 2nd free change. The part number shown for the oil is "Q-5W30-BULK"
What does this part number tell me?

Also, since I did an oil change using Castrol Syntec blend, are you saying my engine warrenty is now voided?

And, I was just quoted $8.00/filter for Toyota brand - this was from the Service Writer (he qualified his quote as a guess)

Good article. As you point out, there are lots of different theories on oil, just as there are on engine break-in, etc. Many of these go hand-in-hand.

The factory tells you to avoid heavy acceleration or high revs for the first thousand miles, and to change the oil at 5000 miles. But I've talked to numerous people who believe you should drive the car normally right from the beginning, change the oil at 500 miles, again at 1000, then at 3000, and from there maintain a 3000-mile interval. I've talked to a few engine builders/mechanics who even say you should run the engine hard for the first 20 miles, then immediately change the oil, then change it again at 500 and 1000 miles. They maintain that engines broken in this way consistently make more power and get better gas mileage than engines broken in according to manufacturer's recommendations.

By the same token, the common wisdom is to NOT run a synthetic oil in your engine during break-in because it's TOO slippery and doesn't allow the rings to seat properly.

(By the way, anyone happen to know whether the tC engine has old-fashioned crosshatched steel cylinder walls, or one of these new Nikasil coatings, or whatever the other manufacturers call their version of it?)

I'd be very wary of a 15,000-mile oil change interval even with a synthetic oil. Synth oils break down too, just not as quickly as conventional oil. I run Mobil 1 in my motorcycle; I was skeptical of the motorcycle-specific formula (which costs $8 a quart), so I put regular 15W50 Mobil 1 in my bike at the last oil change. After less than 2500 miles, I was noticing an increase in mechanical noise from the engine and especially the transmission; changing the oil again eliminated the noise. Granted, motorcycles are much harder on oil since it also lubricates the transmission and clutch, not just the engine, and gear mesh breaks the oil down a lot quicker. But still -- 2500 miles? I definitely would not feel safe running it in my car engine for 15,000 miles. (For what it's worth, I also decided to pony up the $32 and get the motorcycle-specific stuff for my bike.)

It would be interesting to get a comparison of various oil filters. How does a Bosch/Fram/STP/whatever compare to the Toyota OEM one?

--mark

PS: Toyota wouldn't seriously decline warranty coverage for using a non-OEM motor oil, would they? That seems WAY out of control!

By the same token, the common wisdom is to NOT run a synthetic oil in your engine during break-in because it's TOO slippery and doesn't allow the rings to seat properly.
Very good point.

It would be interesting to get a comparison of various oil filters. How does a Bosch/Fram/STP/whatever compare to the Toyota OEM one?
There are at least a couple web site that adress this. I have also seen at least one that tested various brands of air filters. Sorry, I have no URLs :(

IF I CHANGE THE OIL MYSELF HOW DO I GET THE maintience light off .... can some one help me plez...

IF I CHANGE THE OIL MYSELF HOW DO I GET THE maintience light off .... can some one help me plez...

Instructions are in the manual

Good article.
It would be interesting to get a comparison of various oil filters. How does a Bosch/Fram/STP/whatever compare to the Toyota OEM one?

--mark

PS: Toyota wouldn't seriously decline warranty coverage for using a non-OEM motor oil, would they? That seems WAY out of control!

Some of my friends have Toyota trucks and one of them used non oem filters in his, now both of these trucks were maintained very well, the truck with the non oem filter had to have the timing chain and sprockets replaced before 80K miles due to excessive wear. The other truck with the oem filters had no problems for well over 100K plus. No, this cannot be used as a case study, but here is the point, the OEM filter has a valve in the filter to keep the oil from leaking back down into the pan when the engine is shut off, some non OEM filters do not have this valve and thus causes the engine to suffer longer periods of oil starvation at start up.

This was also the recommendation of the mechanic who fixed the truck. The Mech was not a dealership mech, but one who specializes in yoters and knows his trade very well. He recommended buying the Toyota filter so this would not happen again.

My plan will be to buy Toyota filters regardless of cost, but that is my plan, yours may vary.

I might add, I have used Fram filters in both Honduh, Nissan and other domestic autos for years with no problems being traced back to the filter. But I will still buy the OEM filter for my xB as I don't want to take the chance by saving a few bucks on a non OEM filter. I will have 100K plus miles in less than 5yrs and want to extend the life beyond that as far as possible.

It seems like time is dragging ... our xB isn't supposed to be in until next Monday, but in the meantime, here's a trick I use on my Maxima ... it might work in the Scion, depending upon how much oil is required for a change.

The Maxima calls for 4.25 US quarts for an oil and filter change (does anyone ever change oil w/o changing filter?)

I use an overlarge filter, so I fill with 4.5 quarts. I buy Mobil 1 in the 5 qt. container.

After I drain the oil, and change the filter, but before I put the oil pan plug in, I measure off 16 oz of oil, and pour it through, letting it drip out. I use this as sort of a 'flush' of the last dregs of old oil out of the pan. Then, I put the drain plug in, and fill normally.

If the Scions take an even amount of oil, just buy one extra quart, and pour 8 oz through before you put the plug back in. That extra quart will last you four oil changes.

(Can you tell I'm impatient to get this car? It's not even going to be mine, but will be SWMBO's daily driver. It's her first new car in 15 years, and her fourth blue car in a row, starting in 1978!)

My plan will be to buy Toyota filters regardless of cost, but that is my plan, yours may vary.

I might add, I have used Fram filters in both Honduh, Nissan and other domestic autos for years with no problems being traced back to the filter. But I will still buy the OEM filter for my xB as I don't want to take the chance by saving a few bucks on a non OEM filter. I will have 100K plus miles in less than 5yrs and want to extend the life beyond that as far as possible.

I'm going to stick with the Toyota OEM filter as well. Somewhere along the line I read some filter comparisons, and in general the Toyota one gets high marks. Most of the cheaper ones, especially Frams, do not. FWIW, I've heard of Fram motorcycle filters failing catastrophically, simply popping like a water balloon. After reading that their automotive oil filters aren't very good either, I decided they're not worth the risk. I don't mind spending the extra few bucks on the Toyota one. The dealership is just a few doors down the street from Advance Auto Parts anyway, so it's not even out of my way to pick one up when I'm buying oil.

--mark

Great info. I do have a question for you though. According to the article, not using a "Toyota bulk oil" will result in voided warranty? Is this true? EVERY DEALER I've ever taken my car to to get the ol changed uses Castrol GTX. If I have a motor problem I'll be damned if they DON'T fix it!

bulk oil will vary by location, depending on local availability.

Aside from that, they can't void the warranty based on type of oil, or drain interval, as long as the oil meets minimum requirements and certifications.

Magnusson Moss Warranty Improvement Act. Look it up, read it, know your rights.

The article says Toyota WILL NOT warranty a car that does not use the bulk oil while under warranty. Someone's wrong here...either the article or the MM act. I personally don't have the resources to fight a major corporation over a 2-3k motor....Can someone answer this one?

Toyota's not going to void your warranty because you used a motor oil that's higher-quality than their bulk oil. It would never stand up in court. (They're not even allowed to require you to have maintenance performed by Toyota-authorized mechanics -- as long as the maintenance schedule is followed, even if you do it yourself, they can't void your warranty on those grounds.)

For what it's worth, I stopped into my dealer's service department the other day to pick up an oil filter, and sitting right there on the shelf, first thing you see when you walk in the door, was a set of DIY oil-change kits complete with bottles of Mobil1 oil. Draw your own conclusions.

--mark

I went out to the garage, and looked at the oil fill cap.

There is printing on there that specifies the oil you need.

SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) API (American Petroleum Institute) gasoline SL 5w30.

The SL is just a service classification. You should have no difficulty finding a 5w30 oil with the SL classification.

Save the receipts from your purchase of oil and filter (or receipt from the shop that shows you had the oil changed) and you've got adequate proof of your oil changes.

About the 'valve' that someone mentioned on the OEM filter...isn't this valve so in case the oil filter becomes so CLOGGED, it will open the valve and not let the engine starve for oil? Anyone heard of this?

wooooo mobil 1 synthetic is what i use...its the best

For those of you that want to read up a bit on oil here are a few links I hope you will enjoy :)

http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/engineoil_bible.html

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html

Good thread.
One other point that a moto-engineer friend of mine told me was that they did a lot of synth oil research at McCullough (the chain saw folks) and found that one other great thing about synth oil is that it clings to engine parts longer after shut down.
So, it clings to parts better/longer and makes cold starts easier on the engine internals.
I use a pretty aggressive oil-change strategy on my cars/bikes, and I've never, ever needed any major engine repairs of any sort.
I swear by Mobil1 and frequent changes.

One last thing in regards to the mini-debate on how long to leave oils in. If you use synth, you will see that the oil is MUCH dirtier than dino after a change with similar mileage - the synth cleans much better than cheap dino crap.
I fall on the side of the poster(s) that feel shorter than recommended periods are better for synth.
Buildup is what kills oils, and a long time burning petro leaves carbons and acids.

Scott

Mobil 1 Synthetic- Just switched and motor runs stronger. No noticeable change in gas mileage yet... you can get a synthetic oil change at W-Mart for about 30$.

You got a Mobil1 change for $30?
That would be a steal.

Scott

^^^^ Might have been semi-synthetic...That does sound cheap.

thanks for the info

Toyota OEM oil? You mean filter?
My Toyota dealer's "oil stickers" in the window have Mobil on them...they likely use that, or another name - brand.
Ask them.

Another option that a friend of mine practices (not on a toyota) is to run synthetic oil and change only the filter every 3000 to 4000 miles... and then change the oil every 8000ish...... as someone pointed out, the oil takes a lot longer to break down but can look dirtier because its cleaning the engine well. wether or not, just changing the filter is a good idea... well I dunno but hios truck always ran fine....

Does anyone know what the exact prices are for synthetic oil changes at service places like Valvoline or Jiffy Lube?

^^^ Too much. But, I've read that a number of folks take their own oil/filter with them and some charge between $10-20 to do it.

Scott

... the OEM filter has a valve in the filter to keep the oil from leaking back down into the pan when the engine is shut off, some non OEM filters do not have this valve and thus causes the engine to suffer longer periods of oil starvation at start up....

The oil filter on our engines points down. It is a cup. Oil cannot leak down out of the filter.

About the 'valve' that someone mentioned on the OEM filter...isn't this valve so in case the oil filter becomes so CLOGGED, it will open the valve and not let the engine starve for oil? Anyone heard of this?

I would think it is a relief or bypass valve, to allow oil to flow even if the filter is clogged.
I don't think it is a check valve to prevent the filter from draining, because the filter is a cup mounted vertically and can't drain.

Has anyone tried LUCAS product for their engine oil? Is that stuff good for my Scion TC? help pls.

^^ I used to use it in my older cars, but i have heard through my dads shop and other shops he talks with that it isnt always so great on the newer 4 bangers. I have seen multiple cases where even changing from 5w30 to 10w40 causes hellish valve rattle until the engine warms up on a newer toyota. Changing back to 5w30 immediately fixed the problem. While the LUCAS products tend to make the oil adhere better, I have heard that it can also cause the same issues. For the transmission I havent heard anything one way or the other. But, I think you should be perfect just running a good quality full synth and changing as often as your wallet you feel necessary. I dont go more than 4k on M1 in my cars.. the engines stay clean and healthy for quite some time. My 96 saturn will cross 170,000 miles this month.. I have changed the alt and idle air solenoid and put a new clutch in at 130,000. Granted, those year models had pretty reliable engines, but I also have stuck to 4k changes on synth the whole way, no additves

:bow: Lavabox, thank you so much for justifying my $50 oil changes. I feel much better now. :bow:

I do have a question. I commute ~80 miles (round trip) weekdays and race up the turnpike sometimes. Does this driving habit makes my oil change have to come that much sooner (12K miles instead of 15K miles)? I have a 5 speed, if that matters.

:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

... I commute ~80 miles (round trip) weekdays and race up the turnpike sometimes. Does this driving habit makes my oil change have to come that much sooner (12K miles instead of 15K miles)?...

I would not go that long on synthetic. I used to be an Amsoil dealer, and if you used their filters, like Mobil 1 filters, you could go 10K miles at the most. Personally, when I saw that synthetic oil gets just as black as petroleum oil, I did not want to leave it in the engine for 10K miles. Probably the special filter is removing any particles large enough to do harm, and the darkness is just the oil carrying carbon in dispersion, but at some point the oil has all it can carry and will start dropping some - as sludge.

And we all know that Toyota had the infamous "sludgemonster" :lol:

So yes, I agree, stay at factory 5k OCIs.

Scott

And we all know that Toyota had the infamous "sludgemonster"...

"... Scion engines are prone to the accumulation of an oil sludge mixture inside the intake tract. Oil vapor is forced out of the cylinder head and directed through vacuum hose into the intake system to meet clean air regulations. The added oil within the intake system can lower the octane rating of your fuel and create a carbon, oil sludge build-up in your intake system. "
http://www.precisionmuffler.com/id69_oil_catch_can.htm

I haven't read through the entire thread but is it ok to switch from conventional oil to synthetic at 40,000 miles? Sorry if that's a repost.

It is perfectly fine to switch to synth and back if you for some reason you wanted to at any time. If you research through the various oil companies you will find this to be true. I have bought used cars that had always been on dino and switched immediately to synth, then did a earlier than normal change at about 1500 miles to flush out the system and never had an issue.

Thanks for the info! I was just confirming that before I switch my car to Mobil 1 synthetic, I've heard nothing but good things about that stuff...:)

I had an 89 Ford Probe GT, which was turbocharged in case some of you aren't familiar with the car. The original owner used Mobil 1, and I as the second owner, also used Mobil 1. When I finally got rid of the car, it had 210,000 miles on the stock engine AND the stock turbo. The engine neither leaked nor burned a drop of oil, and the turbo shaft spun freely without any side to side play. And that wasn't running the stock (9 lbs) of boost either. I even popped the valve cover off to paint it somewhere around the 180K mark, and it was clean on the underside - no burned on oil, no sludge, just as clean looking as it was when it was installed. I usually changed the oil every 3500-5000 miles, and at first I did it myself and used the Mobil 1 filter as well, but I got lazy and paid a Mobil station to do it. Natually, when I have used up my free oil changes, I'll be making the switch.

THANKS!! What kind of oil and filter should i use when i have 8,000 miles on mine??

THANKS!! What kind of oil and filter should i use when i have 8,000 miles on mine??

THANKS!! What kind of oil and filter should i use when i have 8,000 miles on mine??

Any one of the full-synthetics. I found Pennzoil Platinum for $2 with a rebate, but its regular price is over $6. Mobil 1 is the most popular because it is cheapest and most readily-available.
And the Toyota filter is a good one, so I bought a ten-pack for $3.50 each:
http://trdsparks.com/displayparts.php?Mdl_dtl=476&Part_cat=1&parts_id=971

Reading all of this I keep seeing 10w30 5w30 10w40 but I don't see that kind of marking specifying that on my new TC. On the oilcap itself on my 07 it says SAE 0w20 the the line below it says SAE5w20. WTF? Why does it say this?

The 06 and 07 tC now spec 5w20.
I just put in 5w20 M1 last weekend - running like a top.

Scott

yeah i have an 06 tc, last oil was put in by the dealer i dont think it was 5w30 which normally was recomended, did they change it to something differnt? thanks guys

ok, im new to this, so dont be mean :P

do you have to change the oil filter every time u change the oil???

also, if u by an intake, does that filter replace the oil filter, or are those 2 diffent filters???

highly recommended to change oil filter every oil change..
as for intake, that will be replacing the stock airbox including the stock air filter. Air filter and oil filter are two totally different things. hope that helps

yea, that helps. another question.

years back, i would take my car to jiffy lube. do u kno if they changed the oil filter as well, or only if u asked them to?

For all the speculation about the toyota filters:

On the outside, most oil filters look alike, but inside, not all oil filters are created equal. To maintain the quality that led you to purchase a Toyota in the first place, use a Genuine Toyota Oil Filter.

Features:

* Filter Element: effectively filters contaminants while meeting all Toyota specifications for flow
* Bypass Valve: pressure relief valve that opens only when the filter is clogged and allows oil to flow to the engine.
* Anti-Drainback Valve: helps keep oil from draining into the oil pan during non-use, prevents dry engine starts and wear, helps maximize engine operating life.
* Unique Construction: precision base plate with locking O-Ring ensures tight seal.


Also regaurdless of the position of the filter, the check valve does is keep the oil that is *above* the filter where its at, so the system already has oil in it, without the check valve gravity would pull most of the oil back down into the pan through the filter.

I'm a new member on this site, had just purchased a new XB maunal tranny two weeks ago I like it a lot.

Just a fyi on the synthetic oil issue it's come to my attention that mobil one has been tested and unfortunately it is not a so called true sythetic as we once believed long ago ever since mobil fought castrol oil for not being true to their customers by informing them that they were now using a group III which is a high refined dino oil that behaves similarly to synthetic, they no longer were using a PAO as the BASE stock.

People everywhere were somewhat ignorant to this until mobil had taken castrol to task on this and the industry changed in terms of the meaning of what is a synthetic till this day castrol still pawns off its so called synthetic oil 5w, 10w, versions yet they are a group III. However their 0w-30 is still a PAO base stock and is made in Germany

This is of interest due to the fact that Mobil oil was up in arms because Castrol was doing this yet it is now common knowledge some technical folks over bitog had tested mobil synthetic 5w and 15w versions and found that they have as of now been using a Group III highly refined mineral oil as well (very little PAO is in the formula)and selling it at a price of a PAO base oil.

It now seems to be clear that paying for a group III oil at a price of 5-6$ a qt is absurd given they are not PAO it seems that 3-4$ is more than enough yet due to the ignorance of the general population of consumers in effect they are paying way too much.

Given this, it appears that extending oil changes on a group III oil past a 6k mark one may consider an oil analysis first to see if the oil can handle it , this would include mobil 1 as well. Yet a PAO base oil like Amsoil premier products or even Castrol 0w-30 would be a better choice and could be run at a 10k mark with now issues, incurring a little more expense for these products certainly would be more justified than paying more for a Group III base

Don't get me wrong Group III base oils have put down some good wear numbers such as Penzoil Platinum and this currently can be purchased at Advance Auto for buy one get one free, which is a decent price to pay for this oil at this time yet as soon as this sale disappears, their current selling price may not be worthwhile.

I've stock up a little on these oils for the time being, addtiionally bought some Motor craft oil as well the 5w-20 version due that fact that now toyota and scion have issued a TSB for all 2006 vehicles and above to use this particular weight. Motorcarft 5w-20 can be purchased at walmart 5qt for 10.36 not bad, it too has thrown down some good wear numbers as well.

Thought this may be a good fyi to share on the sythetic oil issue, that may perhaps lend some insight on how far one would go on these oils before changing them out.

... it's come to my attention that mobil one... is not a so called true sythetic ... (but) is now using a group III which is a high refined dino oil that behaves similarly to synthetic, they no longer were using a PAO as the BASE stock... paying for a group III oil at a price of 5-6$ a qt is absurd given they are not PAO ... (and) extending oil changes on a group III oil past a 6k mark one may consider an oil analysis first to see if the oil can handle it...
Yet a PAO base oil like Amsoil... would be a better choice... Group III base oils have put down some good wear numbers such as Penzoil Platinum...
So, Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum are Group III oil (from highly refined petroleum base stock). And Amsoil is a Group IV oil (from synthetic polyalphaolefin (PAO) base stock). And one should not pay as much for Group III oils as for Group IV. So my Pennzoil Platinum is going to be overpriced when the promotiion ends that has been running since last summer. Very interesting, good to know, and I found this to explain it all:
http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/baseoilcategories.htm

Don't anyone conclude anything yet - the chips are still falling on this one and it may or may not be a big story.

It might be that the EP line of oils are indeed GIII or partly so.
As for the non-EP iterations of M1, it has yet to be seen/proven that this is true - but Exxon-Mobil is going to have to answer soon as it's becoming a huge issue in the world of oil geeks.

Scott

Where does it say that Pennzoil Platinum is a Group III oil, which are made from highly refined petroleum base stock?
The Platinum container says it is made from "synthetic base":
... Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic... a unique blend of highly refined synthetic base oil coupled with a proprietary additive package... Superior vs. conventional and synthetic blend oils...

One of the key expressions in the above statement is "refined" normal PAO base oils are not made from a refined stock XHVI Group III base

One of the key expressions in the above statement is "refined" normal PAO base oils are not made from a refined stock XHVI Group III base
Pennzoil says Platinum Full Synthetic is made from "refined synthetic base oil".
Full synthetic would mean it is not blended with conventional oil.
But what does "refined synthetic base oil" mean?
Can a synthetic oil be refined, and from what?
Or can refined only mean that the oil was made from conventional petroleum?
The synthetic oil industry needs to clarify their terms.

I just returned from my first oil-change, which was done at the dealer, and upon examination of the invoice saw that they specified the use of "5qts 10w-30" oil.

I was under the impression that the oil spec'd by toyota for the 1nz-fe was 5w-20.

Should I be concerned by this discrepancy?

I just returned from my first oil-change, which was done at the dealer, and upon examination of the invoice saw that they specified the use of "5qts 10w-30" oil.
I was under the impression that the oil spec'd by toyota for the 1nz-fe was 5w-20.
Should I be concerned by this discrepancy?
5W-30 or the new 5W-20 would be OK, but 10W-30 is not a specified weight. I would ask them about it.

WOW ... I'm glad to see this is still going!

:bow:

wierd questions about synthetic oil....

when you go to autozone to dump your oil, do they stuff all oils, synthetic AND dino, into the same tank? or would they need to be separated

if synthetic oil is truly "synthetic," does that mean it is a renewable source as opposed to dino oil which the planet only has a limited amount?

not so wierd question:

will a toyota oem filter be able to last 5000+ miles on synthetic oil?

Platinum Synthetic Motor Oil is on sale in Advance Auto Part. Buy 1 get 1 Free. Any one use them before???

Platinum Synthetic Motor Oil is on sale in Advance Auto Part. Buy 1 get 1 Free. Any one use them before???
Yes, Pennzoil Platinum synthetic is a very good oil. used oil analysis on a run of it showed great results in my car.

I'm currently on a fill of Havoline Synthetic 5w-20 that I got at BigLots on sale @ $3/qt

OK so I read through the whole post and didn't see anything about when to change from conventional to synthetic oil.

Does anyone have any FACTS on when it is advised to change to synthetic oil on a new motor?


I have a '07 Tc with 4600 miles and am not sure when to switch to synthetic. Planning on doing it at 5000 miles.

Thanks,
Steve

my dad recently put too much oil in his camry hybrid. i'd say it goes over the max line by at least 1/8 to 1/4" is this okay or should some be drained out? thanx

you can change to synthetic oil anytime. because some performance car come with synthetic oil already.


i change to synthetic oil on my first oil change. 5000 mile

you can change to synthetic oil anytime. because some performance car come with synthetic oil already.

i change to synthetic oil on my first oil change. 5000 mile

I'm planning to make the change to full synthetic oil on my first oil change at 5000 miles, but will the dealership make the change (if I provide them with the synthetic oil) under warranty?

I want to get my free oil changes that are under warranty and I don't want the dealership claiming synthetic will void my warranty ... unless it really will.

I want to get my free oil changes that are under warranty and I don't want the dealership claiming synthetic will void my warranty ... unless it really will.

that is why i did all my oil change. It is not worth my time to drive and wait for them to change oil. I can do it myself under 20 minutes.

But if you want to use the free oil changes. Just let the dealership use the conventional oil. Save any confusion it may cause. And 15000 miles on conventional oil should not make any difference in the engine.

wierd questions about synthetic oil....

when you go to autozone to dump your oil, do they stuff all oils, synthetic AND dino, into the same tank? or would they need to be separated

if synthetic oil is truly "synthetic," does that mean it is a renewable source as opposed to dino oil which the planet only has a limited amount?

not so wierd question:

will a toyota oem filter be able to last 5000+ miles on synthetic oil?

Yes, they all get dumped in the same tank.

I have a bunch of Mobile 1 5w-30 that I bought before I got my tC, but the 07 calls for 5w-20. Can I use the 5w-30? I know it is a little thicker but the 05's used 5w-30. Will it cause any issues? MPG?

I have a bunch of Mobile 1 5w-30 that I bought before I got my tC, but the 07 calls for 5w-20. Can I use the 5w-30? I know it is a little thicker but the 05's used 5w-30. Will it cause any issues? MPG?

5w-30 will cause you to see a loss in your mpg. How much of a loss depends on a number of factors but, everything else being the same, the thicker motor oil should reduce your mileage by a small faction of a mile per gallon.

I have a bunch of Mobile 1 5w-30 that I bought before I got my tC, but the 07 calls for 5w-20. Can I use the 5w-30? I know it is a little thicker but the 05's used 5w-30. Will it cause any issues? MPG?

NO ISSUES whatsoever.
You can't even measure the MPG that it might save you.
Use with confidence.

Scott

thanks for the info!!!

has anyone ever used royal purple?

Great thread.

I am surprised to not see any discussion about magnetic oil drain plugs. 40 years ago I was totally convinced about them. I bought a new, and kept for ten years, '69 Eldorado, and had no mechanical expenditures, just batteries etc. . I had a magnetic oil drain plug in it and I could feel a slight pumice-like collection of oil containing what I assumed was microscopic metal particles on the end of the drain plug each time I changed dyno oils (every 3000 miles). I was convinced it worked.

Back then I didn't do anywhere near the research I've done to buy my new (used with 6000 miles) 2006 xB. Of course I'm thinking of getting a magnetic drain plug, but from the dearth of discussions about them, I'm open to hearing that they do not help.

I plan on keeping my xB for ten years

Opinions?

Thanks,

Kerry

Well, they won't hurt.
I've used them in cars and compressors and other items, but cars don't seem to really need them because the filters are good and the oil is even better.
They're cheap, so why not.

has anyone ever used royal purple?

Yes, I use it all the time, why do you have a question about it???

Where do you get it? isn't it expensive? How does it feel using royal purple compared to other oils? I hear it works really great.

The only place I have found it out here is Pepboys. Then after I found it there my BX on base started selling it. The Pepboys here has it on sale a lot. Its like 7bux a qt. normal, on sale for 6.69 though. I buy 4-5 just to keep one handy for whatever reason, when I buy the oil for my changes. Well it had the loud valve train ticking when it had stock oil in it, and then at the first oil change I had them put Mobil1 in it and v. train was still rather loud, 2nd change I put Royal in it and it quieted down the v. train IMO. Not a lot but it seems noticeably quieter to me, and it runs smoother. There's only a few oil brands that are true synthetics and not the ultra-refined convential oil "synthetics". Royal Purple is one, the others I don't remember, I havn't used them but I know people on here have and had great results with them as well. Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic though, even though they claim to be, the last time I heard. Someone correct me on that if I'm wrong.

Oh, and yes it is expensive 7bux a qt for Royal vs 3bux a qt for mobil1...but to me its worth it having synthetic...she deserves the best and that includes 91 oct at every fill up except 2-4 fillups where I made her drink 89 :(

I have taken my xB back to my dealership 4 times. I had an oil and filter change at 2,000 miles (just because) and then again at the 5k, 10k, and 15k recommended service intervals. I noticed the other day that they put a sticker on my windshield specifying the next change, and that is is a Coastal Petroleum branded sticker. This makes me wonder if they are using some off-brand oil in my car.

I will be calling them today now that it's on my mind and inquire as to what brand of oil they use. I am not happy thinking that something possibly non Toyota-spec has been in my car for 15,000 miles.

Jim

Always a good possibility its just the sticker. I'm sure they arn't going to pay for stickers for each brand of oil they use. My dealership only uses Toyo or Mobil 1 Just ask them what they stuck in there.

I emailed the service dept. at the dealership today and asked the question. We'll see what kind of response I get.

I have taken my xB back to my dealership 4 times. I had an oil and filter change at 2,000 miles (just because) and then again at the 5k, 10k, and 15k recommended service intervals. I noticed the other day that they put a sticker on my windshield specifying the next change, and that is is a Coastal Petroleum branded sticker. This makes me wonder if they are using some off-brand oil in my car.

I will be calling them today now that it's on my mind and inquire as to what brand of oil they use. I am not happy thinking that something possibly non Toyota-spec has been in my car for 15,000 miles.

Jim

Toyota spec and Toyota "brand" are two different things.
Toyota is NOT going to put in oil that doesn't meet the spec's.

Scott

The only place I have found it out here is Pepboys. Then after I found it there my BX on base started selling it. The Pepboys here has it on sale a lot. Its like 7bux a qt. normal, on sale for 6.69 though. I buy 4-5 just to keep one handy for whatever reason, when I buy the oil for my changes. Well it had the loud valve train ticking when it had stock oil in it, and then at the first oil change I had them put Mobil1 in it and v. train was still rather loud, 2nd change I put Royal in it and it quieted down the v. train IMO. Not a lot but it seems noticeably quieter to me, and it runs smoother. There's only a few oil brands that are true synthetics and not the ultra-refined convential oil "synthetics". Royal Purple is one, the others I don't remember, I havn't used them but I know people on here have and had great results with them as well. Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic though, even though they claim to be, the last time I heard. Someone correct me on that if I'm wrong.

Oh, and yes it is expensive 7bux a qt for Royal vs 3bux a qt for mobil1...but to me its worth it having synthetic...she deserves the best and that includes 91 oct at every fill up except 2-4 fillups where I made her drink 89 :(

Tue Synthetic oils as a rule...Amsoil. Redline, Royal Purple..beware of Mobil 1 they have changed and I don't believe they are a true synthetic anymore.. or maybe just a few of Mobil 1 products are such as Delvac etc.

Cool, thanks Sciond, Havn't heard much about Amsoil but I know most synthetic going people on here use Redline and Royal Purple. The German version of Castro is supposedly true synthetic as well but they are discontinuing it in the states.

Cool, thanks Sciond, Havn't heard much about Amsoil but I know most synthetic going people on here use Redline and Royal Purple. The German version of Castro is supposedly true synthetic as well but they are discontinuing it in the states.
that is correct about the Castrol I have some Auto Zone carries it...It is actually green... I did not include it because it is very rare and hard to find
BTW
Amsoil is the best of the lot

what is the 30 in 10w30?

The weight of the oil when it reaches its hot temperature. So with 10w30 its 10 weight (w) when its cold out for easy engine start and as it heats up it becomes 30 weight by changing the shape of the molecular structure of the oil.

oooo i used to put 15w50 in my bmw

just so you know most toyota motors now us 0w20 or 5w20

just so you know most toyota motors now us 0w20 or 5w20


Who puts out a 0w-20 oil (M1) ?

In retrospect, IMHO.. and from doing as much research as I possibly can w/engine oils, if you have under 75K miles- and can afford the extra few dollars per oil change- go with a synthetic oil. If you have 75+K miles... maybe not the orig. owner, and don't want to spend the extra $ on synthetic, at least get a HIGH-MILAGE oil(Castol, Penzoil, etc.) - since those oils have conditioners/additives that will help with your engine seals.

All the other oil out there(conventional oil =dino , Dinosaur juice + "Synthetic Blend" = only about 5% syn. oil in there) .... IMHO is a waist of your money (maybe to put in your lawn mower.... but thats about it). The "Synthetic Blend" stuff is real Marketing Gimiky :rofl: :clap: :rofl: :P

omg. very very useful thread. thank you LavaBox!

i use mobil 1 "full syn" and have since 3k now have 30k and im going to switch to a true synthetic brand does anyone have anything to say about doing a over the counter motor flush like every 30k i flushed my jeep and yes it started leaking prety bad it also gets very abused and has 200000 on a litle four banger but it stoped now can someone please just give me some input

If you change every 3k miles, you don't need a flush, unless you used Wesson® oil.
Just make the switch and be happy.

I'm using RP now.
tC seems to love it.

no need to flush...just use some Seafoam every so often

I'm an Amsoil user and dealer.

I'm pretty picky about engine oil.

I also do changes for friends but I don't make them use Amsoil. My choices:

Amsoil as a premium synthetic for extended drain intervals. It's costly so not that many people go for it.

Pennzoil Platinum as a lower cost synthetic for regular drain intervals.

If they don't want to spend the money on a synthetic, I'll usually use Pennzoil conventional, the yellow bottle stuff.

Filter wise, I'll go with: Amsoil, Purolator, Wix or Delco.

I'm not a fan of Mobil 1. I don't think their oils hold up very well. I did a motor oil baking test a year ago and Mobil 1 did not fare very well.

SO.....to make things crystal clear.....

I have a 2008 TC and from what I've read, I can use 5w30 Full Synthetic w/o ANY problems or loss of gas mileage. Even though the owner's manual states 0w20 or 5w20. I just want to make sure because I am changing my oil tomorrow and I have a case of Mobile 1 5w30 that I'm gonna use.

I'm an Amsoil user and dealer... My choices: Amsoil as a premium synthetic for extended drain intervals. It's costly so not that many people go for it. Pennzoil Platinum as a lower cost synthetic for regular drain intervals....
I was an Amsoil dealer for awhile, and have reached the same conclusions. I like the regular drain intervals, so use Pennzoil Platinum. Pennzoil and Pep Boys had a promotion for many months in 2006-2007 and I accumulated a half dozen cases of Platinum at about $2.50/quart.

i got a noob question but when u go for oil change they put sticker of the next oil change on the windshild for example 6000 Miles / 6 Month....i was wondering if i had my change at 3000 miles and after 6 months i have not reached 6000 miles yet..so do i still change the oil as it says after 6 months or when i reach 6000 miles??

thanks!

i got a noob question but when u go for oil change they put sticker of the next oil change on the windshild for example 6000 Miles / 6 Month....i was wondering if i had my change at 3000 miles and after 6 months i have not reached 6000 miles yet..so do i still change the oil as it says after 6 months or when i reach 6000 miles??

thanks!

Depends on your driving, conditions, etc.

Cheap oil, do 3k miles.
Since most people drive a good deal, time isn't as important unless your car sits a lot.

Good oil, well, I've gone as far as I can mentally go - 5k miles on Royal Purple.
I drive 300 miles per week minimum, so time is never an issue.

Scott

i don't know if you would consider that my car sits alot...but i think it does...because for the first 3500miles oil change....it was after 1 yr. ..so should i change after ever 6 months?? or just do it after the sticker miles

i don't know if you would consider that my car sits alot...but i think it does...because for the first 3500miles oil change....it was after 1 yr. ..so should i change after ever 6 months?? or just do it after the sticker miles

Yeah, that's sitting around a lot.
Where do you live?
Is it in a garage?

Scott

i live in Ohio...and my car is not in a garage....i drive it everyday to school and work which are not too far.

jj

I would probably change it twice a year then.
Ohio gets cold, so use the 0w20 or 5w20.

Scott

ok thank you sir....i will do the oil change soon then!!
jj

I've heard if you switch to synthetic its bad to go back to conventional. Is this right?

yes it is bad... the vicosity of the oil is not the same.

if you using syn. in a brand new car your wasting money! for a high mileage car, yes... brand new car, no! it doesn't hurt to use syn. but i would not use it in a brand new vehicle. your just wasting money. if toyota recommends 5w30 then go with it.

I'm an Amsoil user and dealer.

I'm pretty picky about engine oil.

I also do changes for friends but I don't make them use Amsoil. My choices:

Amsoil as a premium synthetic for extended drain intervals. It's costly so not that many people go for it.

Pennzoil Platinum as a lower cost synthetic for regular drain intervals.

If they don't want to spend the money on a synthetic, I'll usually use Pennzoil conventional, the yellow bottle stuff.

Filter wise, I'll go with: Amsoil, Purolator, Wix or Delco.

I'm not a fan of Mobil 1. I don't think their oils hold up very well. I did a motor oil baking test a year ago and Mobil 1 did not fare very well.

i looked on the amsoil site but the only 5w20 oil i see is racing oil. is that the one you're talking about? or the 5w30?

I'm an Amsoil user and dealer.

I'm pretty picky about engine oil.

I also do changes for friends but I don't make them use Amsoil. My choices:

Amsoil as a premium synthetic for extended drain intervals. It's costly so not that many people go for it.

Pennzoil Platinum as a lower cost synthetic for regular drain intervals.

If they don't want to spend the money on a synthetic, I'll usually use Pennzoil conventional, the yellow bottle stuff.

Filter wise, I'll go with: Amsoil, Purolator, Wix or Delco.

I'm not a fan of Mobil 1. I don't think their oils hold up very well. I did a motor oil baking test a year ago and Mobil 1 did not fare very well.

i looked on the amsoil site but the only 5w20 oil i see is racing oil. is that the one you're talking about? or the 5w30?

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asm.aspx

Scott

if you using syn. in a brand new car your wasting money! for a high mileage car, yes... brand new car, no! it doesn't hurt to use syn. but i would not use it in a brand new vehicle. your just wasting money. if toyota recommends 5w30 then go with it.

You are a fool. :no:

Isn't 0w-20 a little too thin? Even though I live in cali where it doesn't get too cold

Isn't 0w-20 a little too thin? Even though I live in cali where it doesn't get too cold

No, because the "0" is the cold viscosity.
It's even better for those who live in cold areas.
It's the number of the oil before the car is up to operating temps.
The important number is the 20.
It's the right number too!

i heard 2006 and newer tc use 5w-20
Should my supercharged 2006 tc using 5w-20 too?
I got my tc since May 2005.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a156/gammatnt/car%205/oil.jpg

i heard 2006 and newer tc use 5w-20
Should my supercharged 2006 tc using 5w-20 too?
I got my tc since May 2005.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a156/gammatnt/car%205/oil.jpg

Your 2006 should be using 5W20.
I'd use synth on the SC.

SB

thanks for the reply

I got an 09, on the cap it says to put 5w-20 but i have some rp in 5w-30 in the garage. can i just use that instead?

I got an 09, on the cap it says to put 5w-20 but i have some rp in 5w-30 in the garage. can i just use that instead?

If it's under warranty, and it is, no.
Will it harm the engine?
Likely not.
But, they say 5w20, so use 5w20.

SB

its actually not under warranty... its a salvaged vehicle. so im good to go? lol

its actually not under warranty... its a salvaged vehicle. so im good to go? lol

Up to you.
I'd still run 5w20. :)

is there a reason no stores carry royal purple max atf? i looked 3 diff stores. kragen had 4 bottles and they dont stock it any more. does it suck or something?

I got an 09, on the cap it says to put 5w-20 but i have some rp in 5w-30 in the garage. can i just use that instead?

5W-20 gives you better gas mileage. 5W-30 gives you better engine wear protection.

and here I though dinosaur fat was all the same

stop trolling the forum w/ pointless posts :flame:

Noob here. Just read the entire thread. Thanks everyone for all the great info. I'll add one thing: If you can, do your own oil changes because you'll know that everything that was supposed to be done was done. Dealers, walmart, jiffy, etc., have all been caught cutting corners by not doing the things they tell you they will do. It has happened to me enough times that I finally decided to never trust my vehicles to these places. First time it happened was in Spokane. I went to Walmart and got their top oil change/service on my truck. What they didn't know was that I was taking it from there to Jiffy to have the differential serviced (Wally doesn't do that). Jiffy found that the fluid in the diff was so burnt they had to flush it three times. They didn't charge me any extra for this, so there was no motivation for them to be messing with me. The tech said he could tell that no one had checked the diff recently. He also told me that he used to work at that walmart and they routinely cut corners to get cars in and out. I went back to Walmart and told them what I had learned. They apologized immediately, refunded my money, and gave me a certificate for a free service in the future. It was clear this wasn't the first time someone complained about their practices.

So I stopped going to Wally and switched to jiffy. Many years went by and then I started having transmission problems with my Volvo. The car had an oil change at jiffy two weeks before this happened. The first thing I did was check the fluid level in the transmission. It was fine but it was also total sludge. I drained it and pulled the pan and the transmission was beyond hope. This didn't happen in two weeks and I suspect it didn't happen in two years. If so, that would mean that this particular jiffy lube supposedly checked the transmission at least five times without telling me what they were seeing. My guess is they never check it.

When I was younger, I used to do everything on my cars and I never had problems like these. Life got busier, and the cost savings for DIY maintenance got smaller, and so I just turned everything over to the so-called professionals. My advice: if you have to use them, don't trust them. Make certain they do everything they are supposed to do by either watching them (Oil Can Henry's) or checking things after they get done. As for me, I'm back to doing it myself. Also, it may just be me, but there is a certain satisfaction that comes from getting you hands dirty now and then. Smelling like oil for a good part of the day is somehow an added bonus. So you end up saving a bit of money by DIY and then you get something that money can't buy as a reward.