needs some threads that explain how to choose damping + spring rate for ride
or just advice. Search is worthless or perhaps I'm just doing it wrong.
Keeping stock rims + wheel profile.
Don't really care about slamming it, might lower up to 1.5" I'm thinking (I don't want to scrape front ever, but if I can get free extra looks out of it hey why not???)
Just want tighter steering for my DD and smoother ride over bumps.
Keeping stock rims + wheel profile.
Don't really care about slamming it, might lower up to 1.5" I'm thinking (I don't want to scrape front ever, but if I can get free extra looks out of it hey why not???)
Just want tighter steering for my DD and smoother ride over bumps.
All aftermarket springs will give you a stiffer ride. If you want stock ride quality, stay with stock springs. Also lowering does not instantly mean better handling. You want better handling around corners get sway bars.
-For you my friend I would say call BC racing and inquire about the spring-rate they offer for the TC and then about custom spring rates just for your knowledge and ask them to explain the difference of the two.
-For sharper handling all you need after the coils are a rear-sway bar and front strut-bar. People think the strut tower bar is a joke but it makes a difference when combined with the right suspension mods.
-The front sway-bar is more extreme and is a bastard too install if your doing it yourself.
Hope we have been helpful.
Oh also get rear endlinks with that rear sway-bar either progressive or Dezod carry upgraded links for larger sway-
bars and a camber kit in the rear just in case.
-For sharper handling all you need after the coils are a rear-sway bar and front strut-bar. People think the strut tower bar is a joke but it makes a difference when combined with the right suspension mods.
-The front sway-bar is more extreme and is a bastard too install if your doing it yourself.
Hope we have been helpful.
Oh also get rear endlinks with that rear sway-bar either progressive or Dezod carry upgraded links for larger sway-
bars and a camber kit in the rear just in case.
The front strut bar does nothing, this has been proven time and time again on other forums. Almost all cars where the strut towers sit within a few inches of, or are welded to the firewall cannot be strengthened anymore. I'd also like to point out for all the money in suspension you could put in a car, you'd only see benefits from it a handful of times even when you push it on the streets. If you Auto-X etc, its different.
Spicy is right, except strut bars are useless in autocross too.
I competitively autocross my tC in Street Touring class.
The very first thing I did was a Hotchkis Sport 28mm rear anti sway bar on full stiff. That, and used Dunlop Star Spec tires on stock wheels were the only thing I could afford for almost a year. Last season, I was 0.8 point from first place for the year. The guy who won is a good friend of mine who drove an RSX on Buddy Club coil overs.
This year, I went with Koni Yellow dampers and Ground Control coil over sleeves with 700lb Eibach springs rear, and 400lb front. This is almost 4x stiffer than stock, but much more tolerable on the street than you think.
If you're not racing, use Eibach Sportline springs for a 2" drop. That will be a decent ride with stock dampers. Eibach also has a set for a 1" drop if you want a milder drop.
Do not lower your car more than 2". Your handling will suffer when you need it most. I made that mistake and learned.
I competitively autocross my tC in Street Touring class.
The very first thing I did was a Hotchkis Sport 28mm rear anti sway bar on full stiff. That, and used Dunlop Star Spec tires on stock wheels were the only thing I could afford for almost a year. Last season, I was 0.8 point from first place for the year. The guy who won is a good friend of mine who drove an RSX on Buddy Club coil overs.
This year, I went with Koni Yellow dampers and Ground Control coil over sleeves with 700lb Eibach springs rear, and 400lb front. This is almost 4x stiffer than stock, but much more tolerable on the street than you think.
If you're not racing, use Eibach Sportline springs for a 2" drop. That will be a decent ride with stock dampers. Eibach also has a set for a 1" drop if you want a milder drop.
Do not lower your car more than 2". Your handling will suffer when you need it most. I made that mistake and learned.
Thx mr exotica.
Do you know what the spring rates are on the prokit vs sportline eibachs? I've got the prokits and the koni yellows. Haven't been able to install either yet but am afraid the prokits aren't going to be stiff enough for my liking.
I've got the trd rear sway on stiffest setting, very much like it.
Do you know what the spring rates are on the prokit vs sportline eibachs? I've got the prokits and the koni yellows. Haven't been able to install either yet but am afraid the prokits aren't going to be stiff enough for my liking.
I've got the trd rear sway on stiffest setting, very much like it.
The prokits were marketted as being progressive rates but the rears definitely aren't progressive and the fronts only barely so. By the way, the non-progressive part of the fronts doesn't look like it could be (based on coil diameter and distance between turns) any stiffer than stock??? I'm afraid I'm going to get these on and they're not going to do for the handling what I want them to.
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