Hey guys...just to set the story straight . The first pass I made in Dinwiddie VA was the first pass ever in this brand new car. It was a 20 somthing second pass & the car launched hard to the left , so i made the decision to let off . I did not want to endanger myself or the car in the other lane. My second pass was a 10.50 ...I know ....I know, not a nine but we didn't think it was too shabby, it was only the second pass we had made as a team. Since then the car has been in 9s twice, and low tens quite a few times. I hope to continuing improving our performance over the next few months. I'm looking forward to meeting everyone at the upcoming SCION VIP events at the rest of our races this season.

 

It must be fun as hell to drive, huh?

 

glad you post on here
hope to see OUTSTANDING numbers from that thing (hopefully)

practice makes perfect

 

That car runs in the quarter what I run in the 1/8th.. lol

1,200 lbs. lighter and 150+ whp does the job quite nice.

 

any NHRA guys running the tC motor yet

 

I run faster than that in the 1/8th with a failing clutch. But I'm starting to think that the tC starts to shine more after the 1/8th.

I'm shooting to be the first privately owned tC into the 12's.

 

I think they prefer to use other motors with already known potential. But still I admire thatSCIONgirl by going all motor here. Somewhat of a fan here. Keep trying and good luck.

 

If I keep my tC long enough, I think I will shoot for 12's too. I would go the Turbonetics route though.

 

Fastest Daily Driven (non-shop car) so far I have seen is 12.7 @ 106 on a ZPI Stage 1 (he freaking beat us to the 12's first, but I'm going to hit that too soon enough).

 

Thanks for the compliment... I think ....???

Car has now ran a 9.79 @ 138mph, which is currently only about a tenth off the national record. We are racing again this weekend in Epping NH.

We are also working on having a Sport FWD (turbocharged street trim class) tC out by the end of the season. Just not as easy to work on when you have been on the road the past 3 weeks. Hopefully when we get a break in Sept. we can get it going....

 

9.79, damn. Nice run.

 

Street trim, as in non-tube chassis? Exactly how much would a tube chassis cost these days?

 

Yes street trim as in a factory bodied car. You must retain all the interior trim & most of the working parts of the vehicle (ie wipers, etc). Although you can remove the rear seats. This class runs anywhere from the 9-10 second range. I believe that the quickest FWD car in NHRA is around a 9.50 @ NOPI it's 9.4s.

As for your tube chassis question it depends on what you are looking for. Are you looking at a FWD All Motor Chassis? Or a FWD Pro Chassis ? Or even a RWD Pro Stock Style Chassis ?

They can range anywhere from $ 40,000 to $150,000 depending.

 

How much was the All Motor Chassis build? And being its called "All Motor" does that mean it wouldn't work for your tC if it was F/I? I would be in the Street trim class (no rear seats), but am no where NEAR 9-10 sec. range....LOL. What is the goal of the F/I tC if it's Street trim? Unless you are running some UNGODLY amount of boost on the 2AZ (if you will be using that motor still in this car) to even touch on a 9-10 sec. pass, I find it very difficult to run that fast in the tC (in street trim that is). Then again, you guys are a full race team, and the formula you use to run anything greater than 11 secs in a street trim tC....I WILL be following in your path. As that is something that can be achieve by some of us Hardcore guys on here who otherwise don't have the resources to pay for a tube chassis.

 

I didn't knew you posted here, and yes, it was a compliment. Good work IMO.

 

Whoa !! Ok I'm gonna try and make sure I answer all of your questions.

1. How much was the A/M Chassis ??
I'm honestly not sure. We had alot of help (sponsorship) from Steen Chassis in Signal Hill CA.

2. And being its called "All Motor" does that mean it wouldn't work for your tC if it was F/I?
I could use the same chassis, but it would not be optimal for that class. The motor is mounted in the longitudinal position in the PROFWD (F/I tube chassis class) to utilize the transmission necessary.

3. What is the goal of the F/I tC if it's Street trim? Unless you are running some UNGODLY amount of boost on the 2AZ (if you will be using that motor still in this car) to even touch on a 9-10 sec. pass.

The goal is to compete at the top of SPORT FWD class with the 2AZ motor. Meaning that we will attempt to run low 10s or high 9s. Remember that even though these cars are in street trim they have fully built motors as well as a roll cages. Also any unessesary weight will have been removed.

4. As that is something that can be achieve by some of us Hardcore guys on here who otherwise don't have the resources to pay for a tube chassis.

9 times out of 10 you don't need a "tube chassis" to race and go fast. Most of the time you just need a roll cage ......

 

LOL...sorry for so many questions. In your last comment, you said we just need a roll cage. However, that produces extra weight. Where else can I save weight if it's Street Trim and only the Rear (back seats and on) can be modified? By Street Trim = Car must appear stock correct? Don't know if you have seen our car, but I have taken some necessary steps to make it lighter (CF hood, CF fenders, removed back portion of the back seats, nothing in hatch except the carpet). I'm looking for more weight savings, do you have any pointers?

PS...A roll cage is in the near future.

 

First thing to do if you are serious about racing in any NHRA class is download the rule book. It will explain everything you need to know about whichever class you want to run. I was generalizing when I said the only thing you can remove was the rear seats. The best advice I can give you is to repeat something you already said
Car must appear stock

 

^^Thanks for the tips Leslie

 

Now that's what I like, profesionals helping others. Leslie thanks for evey bit of help and tip you have given to SL.