All Your Motor Oil Answers
#41
It seems like time is dragging ... our xB isn't supposed to be in until next Monday, but in the meantime, here's a trick I use on my Maxima ... it might work in the Scion, depending upon how much oil is required for a change.
The Maxima calls for 4.25 US quarts for an oil and filter change (does anyone ever change oil w/o changing filter?)
I use an overlarge filter, so I fill with 4.5 quarts. I buy Mobil 1 in the 5 qt. container.
After I drain the oil, and change the filter, but before I put the oil pan plug in, I measure off 16 oz of oil, and pour it through, letting it drip out. I use this as sort of a 'flush' of the last dregs of old oil out of the pan. Then, I put the drain plug in, and fill normally.
If the Scions take an even amount of oil, just buy one extra quart, and pour 8 oz through before you put the plug back in. That extra quart will last you four oil changes.
(Can you tell I'm impatient to get this car? It's not even going to be mine, but will be SWMBO's daily driver. It's her first new car in 15 years, and her fourth blue car in a row, starting in 1978!)
The Maxima calls for 4.25 US quarts for an oil and filter change (does anyone ever change oil w/o changing filter?)
I use an overlarge filter, so I fill with 4.5 quarts. I buy Mobil 1 in the 5 qt. container.
After I drain the oil, and change the filter, but before I put the oil pan plug in, I measure off 16 oz of oil, and pour it through, letting it drip out. I use this as sort of a 'flush' of the last dregs of old oil out of the pan. Then, I put the drain plug in, and fill normally.
If the Scions take an even amount of oil, just buy one extra quart, and pour 8 oz through before you put the plug back in. That extra quart will last you four oil changes.
(Can you tell I'm impatient to get this car? It's not even going to be mine, but will be SWMBO's daily driver. It's her first new car in 15 years, and her fourth blue car in a row, starting in 1978!)
#42
Originally Posted by VdubbsXB
My plan will be to buy Toyota filters regardless of cost, but that is my plan, yours may vary.
I might add, I have used Fram filters in both Honduh, Nissan and other domestic autos for years with no problems being traced back to the filter. But I will still buy the OEM filter for my xB as I don't want to take the chance by saving a few bucks on a non OEM filter. I will have 100K plus miles in less than 5yrs and want to extend the life beyond that as far as possible.
I might add, I have used Fram filters in both Honduh, Nissan and other domestic autos for years with no problems being traced back to the filter. But I will still buy the OEM filter for my xB as I don't want to take the chance by saving a few bucks on a non OEM filter. I will have 100K plus miles in less than 5yrs and want to extend the life beyond that as far as possible.
--mark
#43
Great info. I do have a question for you though. According to the article, not using a "Toyota bulk oil" will result in voided warranty? Is this true? EVERY DEALER I've ever taken my car to to get the ol changed uses Castrol GTX. If I have a motor problem I'll be damned if they DON'T fix it!
#44
bulk oil will vary by location, depending on local availability.
Aside from that, they can't void the warranty based on type of oil, or drain interval, as long as the oil meets minimum requirements and certifications.
Magnusson Moss Warranty Improvement Act. Look it up, read it, know your rights.
Aside from that, they can't void the warranty based on type of oil, or drain interval, as long as the oil meets minimum requirements and certifications.
Magnusson Moss Warranty Improvement Act. Look it up, read it, know your rights.
#45
The article says Toyota WILL NOT warranty a car that does not use the bulk oil while under warranty. Someone's wrong here...either the article or the MM act. I personally don't have the resources to fight a major corporation over a 2-3k motor....Can someone answer this one?
#46
Toyota's not going to void your warranty because you used a motor oil that's higher-quality than their bulk oil. It would never stand up in court. (They're not even allowed to require you to have maintenance performed by Toyota-authorized mechanics -- as long as the maintenance schedule is followed, even if you do it yourself, they can't void your warranty on those grounds.)
For what it's worth, I stopped into my dealer's service department the other day to pick up an oil filter, and sitting right there on the shelf, first thing you see when you walk in the door, was a set of DIY oil-change kits complete with bottles of Mobil1 oil. Draw your own conclusions.
--mark
For what it's worth, I stopped into my dealer's service department the other day to pick up an oil filter, and sitting right there on the shelf, first thing you see when you walk in the door, was a set of DIY oil-change kits complete with bottles of Mobil1 oil. Draw your own conclusions.
--mark
#47
I went out to the garage, and looked at the oil fill cap.
There is printing on there that specifies the oil you need.
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) API (American Petroleum Institute) gasoline SL 5w30.
The SL is just a service classification. You should have no difficulty finding a 5w30 oil with the SL classification.
Save the receipts from your purchase of oil and filter (or receipt from the shop that shows you had the oil changed) and you've got adequate proof of your oil changes.
There is printing on there that specifies the oil you need.
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) API (American Petroleum Institute) gasoline SL 5w30.
The SL is just a service classification. You should have no difficulty finding a 5w30 oil with the SL classification.
Save the receipts from your purchase of oil and filter (or receipt from the shop that shows you had the oil changed) and you've got adequate proof of your oil changes.
#48
About the 'valve' that someone mentioned on the OEM filter...isn't this valve so in case the oil filter becomes so CLOGGED, it will open the valve and not let the engine starve for oil? Anyone heard of this?
#50
For those of you that want to read up a bit on oil here are a few links I hope you will enjoy
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbi...oil_bible.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbi...oil_bible.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
#51
Good thread.
One other point that a moto-engineer friend of mine told me was that they did a lot of synth oil research at McCullough (the chain saw folks) and found that one other great thing about synth oil is that it clings to engine parts longer after shut down.
So, it clings to parts better/longer and makes cold starts easier on the engine internals.
I use a pretty aggressive oil-change strategy on my cars/bikes, and I've never, ever needed any major engine repairs of any sort.
I swear by Mobil1 and frequent changes.
One last thing in regards to the mini-debate on how long to leave oils in. If you use synth, you will see that the oil is MUCH dirtier than dino after a change with similar mileage - the synth cleans much better than cheap dino crap.
I fall on the side of the poster(s) that feel shorter than recommended periods are better for synth.
Buildup is what kills oils, and a long time burning petro leaves carbons and acids.
Scott
One other point that a moto-engineer friend of mine told me was that they did a lot of synth oil research at McCullough (the chain saw folks) and found that one other great thing about synth oil is that it clings to engine parts longer after shut down.
So, it clings to parts better/longer and makes cold starts easier on the engine internals.
I use a pretty aggressive oil-change strategy on my cars/bikes, and I've never, ever needed any major engine repairs of any sort.
I swear by Mobil1 and frequent changes.
One last thing in regards to the mini-debate on how long to leave oils in. If you use synth, you will see that the oil is MUCH dirtier than dino after a change with similar mileage - the synth cleans much better than cheap dino crap.
I fall on the side of the poster(s) that feel shorter than recommended periods are better for synth.
Buildup is what kills oils, and a long time burning petro leaves carbons and acids.
Scott
#52
Mobil 1 Synthetic- Just switched and motor runs stronger. No noticeable change in gas mileage yet... you can get a synthetic oil change at W-Mart for about $30.
_______
_______
Last edited by MR_LUV; 02-23-2019 at 06:54 PM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
#57
Another option that a friend of mine practices (not on a toyota) is to run synthetic oil and change only the filter every 3000 to 4000 miles... and then change the oil every 8000ish...... as someone pointed out, the oil takes a lot longer to break down but can look dirtier because its cleaning the engine well. wether or not, just changing the filter is a good idea... well I dunno but hios truck always ran fine....
#60
Originally Posted by VdubbsXB
... the OEM filter has a valve in the filter to keep the oil from leaking back down into the pan when the engine is shut off, some non OEM filters do not have this valve and thus causes the engine to suffer longer periods of oil starvation at start up....