changing gear oil on 5spd question...
#1
changing gear oil on 5spd question...
Hey guys... im going to be changing the gear oil in my 5spd.. but need some info as to where the fill plug is... i think i know where the drain is.... but where is the fill plug... if anyone knows and can help me...it would be appriciated..
#7
thanks to all that responded to this... i found both the drain and fill plugs....
the drain plug is on the transmission directly below the driver side cv axel.. when looking up while laying on your back.. find the driver side cv axel.. draw a straight line down using your eyes you will see a large silver nut... the fill plug is in the lower portion of the transmision facing the radiator.. again it is a larger silver nut... both the drain plug and the fill plug are the same size , shape and color..
i changed the gear oil to synth just becuase...
the drain plug is on the transmission directly below the driver side cv axel.. when looking up while laying on your back.. find the driver side cv axel.. draw a straight line down using your eyes you will see a large silver nut... the fill plug is in the lower portion of the transmision facing the radiator.. again it is a larger silver nut... both the drain plug and the fill plug are the same size , shape and color..
i changed the gear oil to synth just becuase...
#8
Wait i heard, well read on clubrsx for the rsx that you cant use the mobil 1 syn...
I dont know if it was because it is a high revving car, but they said that mobil 1 syn actually hurt there car...sorry if this is irrelevant, but i wanted to make sure you guys knew the difference and the reason why it cant be used on the rsx.
I know this because i planned on getting the type s instead of a tc, but i ended up with a tc, which i am thankful for.
Anyway, please inform me, cause i dont know where or what to change, but i am at 15k so i think i should get this changed.
how much do dealers usually charge for this?
or is it a easy task, like an oil change, and if it is can someone take pics to show us newbs what it is, and the tools needed?
thank you for your time.
I dont know if it was because it is a high revving car, but they said that mobil 1 syn actually hurt there car...sorry if this is irrelevant, but i wanted to make sure you guys knew the difference and the reason why it cant be used on the rsx.
I know this because i planned on getting the type s instead of a tc, but i ended up with a tc, which i am thankful for.
Anyway, please inform me, cause i dont know where or what to change, but i am at 15k so i think i should get this changed.
how much do dealers usually charge for this?
or is it a easy task, like an oil change, and if it is can someone take pics to show us newbs what it is, and the tools needed?
thank you for your time.
#9
1st of all....the rsx engine aint the tc engine, and the rsx tranny is DEF not the tc tranny, i dont see how syn tranny fluid will hurt, even syn. engine oil, my friend switched both to syn, and he says it never ran smoother or quieter, except for that damned exhaust. and yea i was on the same road as u, in between a used wrx, new rsx s....then one day saw the commercial of the tc, went out and bought it...funny story, but yea ur good dun wry...and yea changin tranny fluid is madd easy.
#12
According to the service manual, the MTF isn't even set for inspection until the 30k mark. It's only recommended for replacement at 60k if the vehicle is used in "special conditions".
Why shouldn't you put regular Mobil One in a transmission? Synthetic oils are too slick. Transmissions generally appreciate a fluid with a friction enhancer, seeing as how they rely on the meshing of gears to operate. There is absolutely no reason under the sun not to be using Toyota MTF in the trans... of course, there's no need to be replacing it at 10k miles, either.
But hey... get on with your bad self.
Why shouldn't you put regular Mobil One in a transmission? Synthetic oils are too slick. Transmissions generally appreciate a fluid with a friction enhancer, seeing as how they rely on the meshing of gears to operate. There is absolutely no reason under the sun not to be using Toyota MTF in the trans... of course, there's no need to be replacing it at 10k miles, either.
But hey... get on with your bad self.
#13
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/13.pdf
If after 5k miles the oil loses 12.5% of its viscosity, then after 60k you're down to 20% of the original rated viscosity. Not too good for the transmission.
If after 5k miles the oil loses 12.5% of its viscosity, then after 60k you're down to 20% of the original rated viscosity. Not too good for the transmission.
#15
Originally Posted by Dr. Isotope
According to the service manual, the MTF isn't even set for inspection until the 30k mark. It's only recommended for replacement at 60k if the vehicle is used in "special conditions".
Why shouldn't you put regular Mobil One in a transmission? Synthetic oils are too slick. Transmissions generally appreciate a fluid with a friction enhancer, seeing as how they rely on the meshing of gears to operate. There is absolutely no reason under the sun not to be using Toyota MTF in the trans... of course, there's no need to be replacing it at 10k miles, either.
But hey... get on with your bad self.
Why shouldn't you put regular Mobil One in a transmission? Synthetic oils are too slick. Transmissions generally appreciate a fluid with a friction enhancer, seeing as how they rely on the meshing of gears to operate. There is absolutely no reason under the sun not to be using Toyota MTF in the trans... of course, there's no need to be replacing it at 10k miles, either.
But hey... get on with your bad self.
but hey, stick with your "toyota recommended" if you want.. i'll stick with common sense.
#18
my car had 1408 miles when i switched this last sunday... i used redline 75-90 gearoil.. the manual states 2.6 us/qt for the tranny... you may only need just alittle over 2.. since you really cannot get ALL the old stuff out..
i also switched to mobile1 engine oil at the same time.. i was going to go with redline aswell but just decided to go with mobil1 for the engine.. im not one to stick to the "recommended" change schedule.. i will probably do 4k miles between changes.. yes.. i know.. the manual says 5k and the norm in the old days was 3k.. so ill split the difference.. anyhow.. you really can;t go wrong..
i also switched to mobile1 engine oil at the same time.. i was going to go with redline aswell but just decided to go with mobil1 for the engine.. im not one to stick to the "recommended" change schedule.. i will probably do 4k miles between changes.. yes.. i know.. the manual says 5k and the norm in the old days was 3k.. so ill split the difference.. anyhow.. you really can;t go wrong..
#19
Use Redline MT-90, which is a 75w90. The MT-90 is made to protect syncros, especialy in Toyota's. I used MT-90 in my Blitz Supercharged 2000 Celica GT-S for 5 years, of course changing every 30,000 miles. All the crap people talked about the GT-S gear box being junk, was just because they didn't know how to drive the 6 speed.......lol j/k
I feel the big reason the tight gear box lasted 120,000 of pure hard driving was, because of the wonderful Redline MT-90. In the morning when the gears and gear oil were cold, my second gear would grind coming out of first, until the gear oil was all warmed up, then it would stop. Redline MT-90 stopped the grinding in the morning, due to it being designed to protect and lubricate during warm up (cold tempuratures.) My GT-S shifted much better under higher RPM's and always shifted like it was brand new.......
If your not sure wear to buy it go to www.redlineoil.com and find a retailer near you.
The GL-4 & GL-5 are the same viscosity (75w90), but GL-5 can be corrosive to syncros. MT-90 is a GL-4 and is better for syncros. The GL-4 will not be corrosive to sycronizers like the GL-5 will, since the syncros are made of brass or bronze.
Buy 3 liters/quarts of MT-90, which will fill your baby's box up. You will not use all of the 3 quart.
My tC shifts much smoother now, even in the mornings too......
I feel the big reason the tight gear box lasted 120,000 of pure hard driving was, because of the wonderful Redline MT-90. In the morning when the gears and gear oil were cold, my second gear would grind coming out of first, until the gear oil was all warmed up, then it would stop. Redline MT-90 stopped the grinding in the morning, due to it being designed to protect and lubricate during warm up (cold tempuratures.) My GT-S shifted much better under higher RPM's and always shifted like it was brand new.......
If your not sure wear to buy it go to www.redlineoil.com and find a retailer near you.
The GL-4 & GL-5 are the same viscosity (75w90), but GL-5 can be corrosive to syncros. MT-90 is a GL-4 and is better for syncros. The GL-4 will not be corrosive to sycronizers like the GL-5 will, since the syncros are made of brass or bronze.
Buy 3 liters/quarts of MT-90, which will fill your baby's box up. You will not use all of the 3 quart.
My tC shifts much smoother now, even in the mornings too......
#20
Here's a little info from Redline regarding syncros and GL- gear oils...... Enjoy!
GEAR AND SYNCHRONIZER WEAR PROTECTION
Most manufacturers of manual transmissions and
transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL-4 lubricant.
GL-5 gears oils which are required in hypoid differentials
are not used in most synchromesh transmissions
because the chemicals used to provide the extreme
pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers,
which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically,
the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh
transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one
half. The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears
and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly
as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. A
GL-4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most
manual transmissions, unless a unique design
consideration requires the extra protection of a GL-5.
The reason that many manufacturers have made
recommendations of motor oils or ATFs is that petroleum
80W gear oils frequently do not shift well at low
temperatures. Motor oils and ATFs are much more fluid
at lower temperatures and they are not corrosive toward
synchros, but they provide very poor gear protection.
These lubricants provide almost no extreme-pressure
protection. In addition, petroleum multigrade motor oils
and ATFs have very poor shear stability. The shearing
action by a manual transmission on thickeners is much
worse than in an engine or automatic transmission.
Within 5,000 miles the thickeners can be rendered
ineffective and the transmission will be operating on a
much reduced level of protection, as shown in the graph
below. In hot weather these transmissions will whine
and rattle because of poor vibration dampening and
metal contact. Red Line MTL and MT-90 provide the
excellent gear protection of a GL-4 gear oil in a synthetic
lubricant which spans hot and cold temperatures and will
not shear or oxidize with use.
GEAR AND SYNCHRONIZER WEAR PROTECTION
Most manufacturers of manual transmissions and
transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL-4 lubricant.
GL-5 gears oils which are required in hypoid differentials
are not used in most synchromesh transmissions
because the chemicals used to provide the extreme
pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers,
which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically,
the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh
transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one
half. The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears
and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly
as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. A
GL-4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most
manual transmissions, unless a unique design
consideration requires the extra protection of a GL-5.
The reason that many manufacturers have made
recommendations of motor oils or ATFs is that petroleum
80W gear oils frequently do not shift well at low
temperatures. Motor oils and ATFs are much more fluid
at lower temperatures and they are not corrosive toward
synchros, but they provide very poor gear protection.
These lubricants provide almost no extreme-pressure
protection. In addition, petroleum multigrade motor oils
and ATFs have very poor shear stability. The shearing
action by a manual transmission on thickeners is much
worse than in an engine or automatic transmission.
Within 5,000 miles the thickeners can be rendered
ineffective and the transmission will be operating on a
much reduced level of protection, as shown in the graph
below. In hot weather these transmissions will whine
and rattle because of poor vibration dampening and
metal contact. Red Line MTL and MT-90 provide the
excellent gear protection of a GL-4 gear oil in a synthetic
lubricant which spans hot and cold temperatures and will
not shear or oxidize with use.