For those of you who do not know what Seafoam is, it's a very concentrated fuel system and combustion chamber cleaner. The proper way to do this (as stated on their site), is to pour 1/3 bottle into oil crank case, 1/3 bottle into intake manifold suction hose (post check valve if you have one
the tC does not), and 1/3 bottle into gas tank. It cleans the fuel lines from any sludge build up as well as injector heads, cleans sludge in oil and lower cylinders to allow for easier piston travel, and cleans spark plugs/upper cylinder carbon deposits, and intake/exhaust valves.

NOTE: IF YOU CHOOSE TO POUR THE 1/3 BOTTLE INTO THE CRANK CASE, YOU MUST CHANGE YOUR OIL AFTER YOU HAVE COMPLETELY THE CLEANING. IT THINS THE OIL OUT AND BREAKS DOWN ANY VARNISH AND SLUDGE.

I chose to only do the fuel tank and the intake manifold due to already having changed/flushed my oil on the last interval. So, here are the steps with pics:

Step 1: Purchase Seafoam injector cleaner at a local auto parts store. I bought it for $6.50



Step 2: Purchase about 2-3' of 7/16 rubber hose and a funnel to fit. This just helps pour the Seafoam into the intake manifold due to limited room with my strut brace.





Step 3: Remove 2 retaining bolts on plastic valve cover





Step 4: Locate intake manifold suction line leaving back of valve cover.



Step 5: Attach funnel/hose setup to fitting shown in red circle above.

Step 6: Pour about 1/3 bottle of Seafoam into funnel. If you would find it easier, pour 1/3 of the bottle into a container and SLOWLY pour
that 1/3 into the intake a little at a time. Crank the engine a few times to fire the Seafoam through the valves and into the cylinder chamber.

Step 7: Reattach suction hose to intake manifold after removing 7/16 line and hose.

Step 8: Crank car over about 3-4 times to suck liquid into cylinders and past intake valves....NOTE:Car will not start during these 3-4 cranks but will seem like it wants to.

Step 9: Let vehicle sit with engine off for 5-10 minutes...This will help the chemical begin to break down any settled carbon/varnish on cylinder heads/walls and valves/seats.

Step 10: After 5-10 minutes, crank car a few more times until it starts....You may have to pump the pedal as you fire it up to pump some fuel into the chambers

Step 11: Once started, keep car Rpms above 2000 for about 30 seconds.
***You will notice white smoke coming out of your exhaust



Step 12: Rev engine through all of the power band for about 5 minutes and then let idle for about 10.



Step 13: After smoke has settled to almost nothing, take vehicle to gas station and pour remaining contents of Seafoam into gas tank. Then, fill up:



**Plug for Chevron 87 octane

Step 14: Drive vehicle for about 20-30 miles afterwards (or 20-30 minutes) to allow chemicals to cleanse the internals and burn their way through the system.

NOTE: If you notice your CEL come on, as mine did, take it to AutoZone and get it scanned.
I knew mine would come on b/c the startup after doing the intake treatment is pretty rough and you can tell it was misfiring.



I pulled a P0300, 301, & 302 code due to cylinders 1 and 2 misfiring along with 3 and 4 randomly.
That was only upon startup though and after 30 miles of driving after clearing the code, CEL is off and engine is smooth.

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Good write-up!

The reason the CEL came on is because the cleaner was poured in too fast! We do these cleanings all of the time at work and a special tool is needed. This tool allows the cleaner into the intake system at a pre-adjusted pressure to prevent the cleaner from going in all at once. This cleaning should take a total of atleast 20 minutes if done correctly with this tool and the CEL won't come on either...

 

ah well, my special tool was the hose and funnel...hahahaha


All is well now and going to take it on another 40 mile trip to my gf's house to go mt. biking now too.

 

But the question is....

is there any noticeable difference?

 

Awesome Write up man

 

hm.. misfiring ?
maybe thats what my engine does all the time...

my idle is kinda horrible.. the needle goes up and down. if i turn on the AC the engine starts to shake really badly...
and few times in every minutes the engine kicks one ( thats the misfiring maybe?)
i have no CEL... i had CEL because of the megan header but using the fouler i have no cel anymore.

 

The idle and accelleration difference is very noticable. Both are VERY smooth now and it kind of feels like a new car.....it's a bit weird to drive now b/c I'm used to how it used to drive but don't get me wrong...I take care of my car and make sure everything is done on a set interval.

Oil (synthetic Mobil 1 extended performance) every 5000 miles
Amsoil 75W-90 Gear lube every 30000
Brake fluid (DOT 4) every 30000
Coolant flush every year

The car is taken care of on a regular basis but it just feels much smoother now.

 

I forgot but which method fouls the spark plugs?...Suction hose on the manifold?

What's the mileage on your odo?

 

Neither has fouled my plugs b/c the suction line is directly into the manifold

I have 82000 on mine now and no CEL after 150 miles.

I just seafoamed my 1996 ranger with 186000 and no CEL came on and the idle immediately seemed smoother.

 

Good to hear! I didn't see a warning about hydrolocking but sometimes people get a little excited and poor it a weee bit too fast.
Nice write-up.

 

an easier way for the same effect take the vacuum line off your intake and crank the car to let it suck it up

 

nice diy

 

Thanks

 

awesome

gotta do it soon

 

Hey I'm going to be Seafoaming my tC tomorrow. It's got over 114000 miles on it, Im not too sure as to what line I should be using to suck the Seafoam into the engine.
I heard you can either you the PCV valve or the break booster line. Which line in this shown in the picture??

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r...831081101b.jpg

What are alternative lines that will feed all 4 cylinders?

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some ppl would say intake but pls dont do that. especially if u have CAI or SRI...

just use the brake booster line. its easy

 

good info, may try this out soon

 

Is the brake booster line in the same location for S/C'ed tC's? I have read somewhere that doing this may possibly lean out the AF ratio and detonate.. is this true?

Just tonight I Seafoamed a friends NA Mazda 6 with great success doing the brake booster line method.

I am hesitant to do this to my tC because of the supercharger, can anyone with a S/C confirm how to properly Seafoam it? I have approximately 75K on the motor, 30K with the S/C.

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uh.... not sure what to tell u

 

how to crank a car? pressing clutch and turn the engine on?