need engine codes from a CEL.... how do I get them?
#1
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Location: Fullerton, CA
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need engine codes from a CEL.... how do I get them?
Anyone reading the header threads will know that I have the Megan header and love it, but still have a CEL even after applying the antifouler "fix." I would like to get the check engine code from the ECU. Is there any trick for getting this?
My tC is in for an oil change today, so I asked the dealer about giving me the code. They said it would be an hour's diagnostic charge @ $79, which seems outrageous to me. It should be a 5-minute process to simply return the code, right? I was pretty clear that I did not want any "diagnostic" work to identify the cause of the CEL. I already KNOW what the cause is. I just want to know which specific code is being returned.
The only experience I have with engine codes is on my Miata. I know that a "driveway" diagnostic can be done by connecting two pins on the ECU diagnostic connector. This causes the check engine light to flash in a pattern which indicates the code. This is in addition to the "proper" way of getting the code -- through a tech computer.
Is there any sort of "driveway diagnostic" method with the Scion tC? If not, am I totally off base to think that the Scion tech should be able to give me the code in the matter of a few minutes?
Thanks!
My tC is in for an oil change today, so I asked the dealer about giving me the code. They said it would be an hour's diagnostic charge @ $79, which seems outrageous to me. It should be a 5-minute process to simply return the code, right? I was pretty clear that I did not want any "diagnostic" work to identify the cause of the CEL. I already KNOW what the cause is. I just want to know which specific code is being returned.
The only experience I have with engine codes is on my Miata. I know that a "driveway" diagnostic can be done by connecting two pins on the ECU diagnostic connector. This causes the check engine light to flash in a pattern which indicates the code. This is in addition to the "proper" way of getting the code -- through a tech computer.
Is there any sort of "driveway diagnostic" method with the Scion tC? If not, am I totally off base to think that the Scion tech should be able to give me the code in the matter of a few minutes?
Thanks!
#2
the diagnostic charge is for the dealers trouble of hooking up the diagnosis computer and translating the code that is displayed on the computer screen......the reason it's $79/hr is because labor is generally rounded up to the 1/2 hour or hour
#6
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AutoZone will do it? Cool, I'll look into that! Thanks. I understand that the dealer may round labor charges up to the nearest 1/2 hour, but sheesh. If AutoZone can do it for free, that means it is likely to take all of 5 minutes. Plug in the computer, get a code, unplug the computer. If my car is in the service bay ANYWAY, then my expectation is that they could do this at no charge or -- at worst -- a "nominal" charge. NOT a full hour's worth of labor.
I have no problem paying when the charges are fair. I don't whine about little stuff, and I frequently will pay for work even though I could do it myself. In this case, it's an unreasonable charge. I didn't ask for them to do a "diagnostic" for the purposes of giving me a repair quote. I just wanted to know the code from the computer. I was very specific about that.
Oh well.
I have no problem paying when the charges are fair. I don't whine about little stuff, and I frequently will pay for work even though I could do it myself. In this case, it's an unreasonable charge. I didn't ask for them to do a "diagnostic" for the purposes of giving me a repair quote. I just wanted to know the code from the computer. I was very specific about that.
Oh well.
#8
I do not reccomend autozone for anything bu car wash products... even then I am cautious! Their parts are generally crap... and many private garages will not even use them if you ask. And I have seen them screw up peoples cars trying to help them. You can purchase an OBDII reader for a fairly cheap price if you look around. Keep in mind that this is a reader only. Lucky me... my father is a mechanic, so I use his 4000 dollar diagnostic tool But the reader is definitely worth it! I can hook one up and pull codes in all of about 10 minutes..... better than paying a dealership 80 bucks! And I know, some of them will tell you they have a tool that "tells you exactly what is wrong with your car" which DOES NOT EXIST! The diagnostic tool they use tells them what is out of range in the ECU readings. One issue can cause a chain reaction throughout the system. This is what seperates the guys who replace the 3-4 most liketly components until it is fixed (charging you for all of it), from the REAL technicians and private mechanics that will actually troubleshoot until they find the real issue. I know... this is getting a bit off topic... but the mechanics /techs I know that are good at what they do receive cars every day that other dealerships/techs have worked on, charged the customer a boatload of money, and did not fix... so just warning everyone.
So... to stop my rambling.... purchase a reader. If you know the code, and have some experience in automotive systems, you can use that knowledge to track down the cause of the code.
I am guessing you are receiving the catalyst error mentioned in a post above. The antifouler pulls the second O2 sensor out of the flow a little so that there is a difference in readings between them... which is what the ECU expects. You can add a second antifouler to increase this difference (stacking them). I am planning on just building a simulator circuit to add to mine when I get the header (yes, I am an electroncis geek )
So... to stop my rambling.... purchase a reader. If you know the code, and have some experience in automotive systems, you can use that knowledge to track down the cause of the code.
I am guessing you are receiving the catalyst error mentioned in a post above. The antifouler pulls the second O2 sensor out of the flow a little so that there is a difference in readings between them... which is what the ECU expects. You can add a second antifouler to increase this difference (stacking them). I am planning on just building a simulator circuit to add to mine when I get the header (yes, I am an electroncis geek )
#10
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thanks everyone. i found an obdii reader on ebay and it's on the way.
and i know all too well about the "replace until it's fixed" mentality with dealers. i'm struggling with that one now at a local mazda dealer. my miata has an electrical problem and the tech seems to think it's my non-OEM battery causing the problem. he says "the battery is too big so it's pushing too much current through the system." uh... the system DRAWS current, the battery doesn't PUSH it. oh well, that's a long story for some other thread.
anyway, when i get the reader i'll post about the code i get.
and i know all too well about the "replace until it's fixed" mentality with dealers. i'm struggling with that one now at a local mazda dealer. my miata has an electrical problem and the tech seems to think it's my non-OEM battery causing the problem. he says "the battery is too big so it's pushing too much current through the system." uh... the system DRAWS current, the battery doesn't PUSH it. oh well, that's a long story for some other thread.
anyway, when i get the reader i'll post about the code i get.
#11
Originally Posted by engifineer
This is what seperates the guys who replace the 3-4 most liketly components until it is fixed (charging you for all of it), from the REAL technicians and private mechanics that will actually troubleshoot until they find the real issue.
Haven't been to a Ford dealer in the NW NJ area that could fix a car beyond replacing parts called out by codes over and over again until the codes all go away.
Hoping I have better luck with Toyota service.
NJTrout
#12
Originally Posted by RacerZack
thanks everyone. i found an obdii reader on ebay and it's on the way.
and i know all too well about the "replace until it's fixed" mentality with dealers. i'm struggling with that one now at a local mazda dealer. my miata has an electrical problem and the tech seems to think it's my non-OEM battery causing the problem. he says "the battery is too big so it's pushing too much current through the system." uh... the system DRAWS current, the battery doesn't PUSH it. oh well, that's a long story for some other thread.
anyway, when i get the reader i'll post about the code i get.
and i know all too well about the "replace until it's fixed" mentality with dealers. i'm struggling with that one now at a local mazda dealer. my miata has an electrical problem and the tech seems to think it's my non-OEM battery causing the problem. he says "the battery is too big so it's pushing too much current through the system." uh... the system DRAWS current, the battery doesn't PUSH it. oh well, that's a long story for some other thread.
anyway, when i get the reader i'll post about the code i get.
#13
Originally Posted by NJTrout
Originally Posted by engifineer
This is what seperates the guys who replace the 3-4 most liketly components until it is fixed (charging you for all of it), from the REAL technicians and private mechanics that will actually troubleshoot until they find the real issue.
Haven't been to a Ford dealer in the NW NJ area that could fix a car beyond replacing parts called out by codes over and over again until the codes all go away.
Hoping I have better luck with Toyota service.
NJTrout
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