ok so im following the DIY thread on how to change the trans fluid on the tc, so i go and order the redline mt-90 bottles online but when i got them looked a bit different than the ones pictured in redlines website (sticker looks a bit diff) anyways i wanted to ask you if this is the right stuff before i dump it into the tranny, i also wanted to ask you if you know what it is and how difficult is to fix or how... i noticed that when im driving and make a turn either left or right car makes a noise kinda like screeetch but not too loud but is becoming more noticeable, any help is really appreciated

 

Thats it.

 

you didnt want GL5?

Max

 

No, GL5 is corrosive to the brass components of the transmission. Scion recommends GL4 to extend the trans life.

 

Scion recommends either GL4 or GL5. It's in your manual. I use Motul Gear 300 which is both GL4 and GL5 rated.

 

MT-90.. fine

 

While you are correct, in truth, GL4 is going to extend the life of your manual trans over GL5. I contacted Scion directly and they told me because of the brass components in the tranny, 4 is the best choice.

 

mt-90 user here. good stuff.

 

what miles did all of yall change the fluid?

 

What about the stuff I use that has both GL4 and GL5 ratings? Maybe since it's ester based they don't need to add the EP additives that corrode synchros. I'm gonna do both a virgin oil analysis and a used oil analysis once I put some miles on this oil. Hopefully it won't show much bronze, brass, or copper. Someone running MT90 should do an oil analysis as well. It would be interesting to compare.

 

What "stuff" is that?
What is the percentage of antiscuffing additives in this "stuff" you have in your trans?

The EP additives are not the biggest threat to the yellow metals.

 

GL5 is for limited slip differentials!

What about that screech when turning - check your tire pressure lately?

 

GL4 specific fluids are typically better for manual trans because they have the correct FMs and lower EP/AW additive levels. GL5 that is also GL4 approved will work, but is not the best choice. The problem is that the extra additives in GL5 can interfere with the synchros ability to do their job well. GL5 gear oils tend to have friction modifiers which are not good for the synchros. They do not have the same properties as a true GL4

If your manual transmission calls for GL4/GL5, either use GL4 or get a GL5 that does not contain friction modifiers (Redline 75w90NS & Amsoil Long-Life 75w90 FGR are two examples). By far the worst GL5 in our trans is Mobil1 synthetic 75w90. Mobil actually warns against using it in synchromesh transmissions.

IMHO, if youre going to spend $10/qt on synthetic gear oil, take your time and select the most ideal type. They all cost about the same.

 

Did my first flush and fill @ 12k. Will be doing it once every 2 years from here on out.

 

I use Motul Gear 300. Motul clearly states this should not be used with a limited slip differential. More info in the PDF.

http://www.motorspot.com/Gear_300_Auto_3178_(GB).pdf

 

im at 66xxx and havent done one. maybe i should

 

fyi - my 02 ford ranger (i know, i know FORD = "found on the road dead") has 70k miles and i just had my tranny rebuilt, why, because i never changed the fluid...ugh, what an expensive lesson that was!!

 

I always thought the acromyn was "fu*kin' okies really dig'em".

 

every other week, tires are fairly new about 3-4 months old, at first i thought it was rubbing since i have 19"s and Tein coilovers, but theres no sign on the wheel well or tires and the sound seems to be comming from inside the hood, i thought about replacing the power steering fluid and went to the dealer to ask which one it used so i could buy it and the guy goes like uuummm its the one that uumm the penzoil one umm...

 

Ok then the only other thing may be the power steering pump belt slipping if you are turning the wheel over all the way to the stop hard. Does it squeek when moving or when the wheel is turned and you are stopped? If your suspension was lowered there may be an alignment issue - check toe in first and then the more complicated alignment checks will have to be done by a specialist - you want to check for bump steer also - alignment changes when suspension is compressed and extended.