DSLR Owners Unite! (56k? Are you kidding me?)
I found this..
A zoom lens allows continuous shift of focal length without shifting the focus point. Because it delivers various angles of view, one lens can serve as multiples of fixed focal length lenses.
Standard Range Zoom
Standard zoom (28-80mm)
Telephoto zoom (80-210mm, 70-300mm, etc.)
Advanced Range Zoom
Wideangle zoom (19-35mm)
High-image-quality telephoto zoom (70-300mm)
Ultra telephoto zoom (200-500mm)
High-Power Zoom
Standard zoom (28-105mm)
Ultra-high-power zoom (24-135mm, 28-200mm,
28-300mm)
High-Speed Zoom
Wideangle zoom (17-35mm F/2.8-4)
High power zoom (28-75mm F/2.8, 28-105mm/2.
Telephoto zoom (70-210mm/2.
So a wideangle zoom is better than a telephotozoom?
And how significant is having a hood for your lenses?
A zoom lens allows continuous shift of focal length without shifting the focus point. Because it delivers various angles of view, one lens can serve as multiples of fixed focal length lenses.
Standard Range Zoom
Standard zoom (28-80mm)
Telephoto zoom (80-210mm, 70-300mm, etc.)
Advanced Range Zoom
Wideangle zoom (19-35mm)
High-image-quality telephoto zoom (70-300mm)
Ultra telephoto zoom (200-500mm)
High-Power Zoom
Standard zoom (28-105mm)
Ultra-high-power zoom (24-135mm, 28-200mm,
28-300mm)
High-Speed Zoom
Wideangle zoom (17-35mm F/2.8-4)
High power zoom (28-75mm F/2.8, 28-105mm/2.
Telephoto zoom (70-210mm/2.
So a wideangle zoom is better than a telephotozoom?
And how significant is having a hood for your lenses?
the smaller the focal length number the more you can get in the picture.
full frame cameras like canon 5d and 1d are a standard. my 50d camera has a cropped sensor of 1.6.,
which means a real 35mm lens will look the way it should on a full frame lens, but since mine is a cropped sensor I get only a portion of the image of what a full 35mm lens should have in the image. the outside edges of the photo will be cropped out.
now since my lens is a factor of 1.6 it means i need to add roughly 6mm to every 10mm or so to get the real focal length.
let me explain a 35mm lens on a full frame camera will yield what a 35mm lens should within the frame of the picture. on a 1.6 cropped sensor, id get an image equivalent of roughly a 50mm lens on a full frame camera.
I hope this is right? if im incorrect someone please correct me. Im trying to explain this as simple as I can.
now I want a 24-70 over my 28-135 because the 24-70 has better glass, wider aperture, and since the 24-70 is an L series lens it stays the same aperture setting throughout the entire zoom range, as opposed to the 28-135 ef, that narrows the aperture as you increase the zoom.
why would I want a wide aperture lens (smaller the number the wider the aperture) this allows more light to enter the lens at a faster shutter speed. which equates to better photo in low light environments and the ability to create shallow dof easily. However on the downside, wider aperture also has a smaller area of focus. which means, sharp in the center blurry on the outside.
I hope this helps,
cheers!
full frame cameras like canon 5d and 1d are a standard. my 50d camera has a cropped sensor of 1.6.,
which means a real 35mm lens will look the way it should on a full frame lens, but since mine is a cropped sensor I get only a portion of the image of what a full 35mm lens should have in the image. the outside edges of the photo will be cropped out.
now since my lens is a factor of 1.6 it means i need to add roughly 6mm to every 10mm or so to get the real focal length.
let me explain a 35mm lens on a full frame camera will yield what a 35mm lens should within the frame of the picture. on a 1.6 cropped sensor, id get an image equivalent of roughly a 50mm lens on a full frame camera.
I hope this is right? if im incorrect someone please correct me. Im trying to explain this as simple as I can.
now I want a 24-70 over my 28-135 because the 24-70 has better glass, wider aperture, and since the 24-70 is an L series lens it stays the same aperture setting throughout the entire zoom range, as opposed to the 28-135 ef, that narrows the aperture as you increase the zoom.
why would I want a wide aperture lens (smaller the number the wider the aperture) this allows more light to enter the lens at a faster shutter speed. which equates to better photo in low light environments and the ability to create shallow dof easily. However on the downside, wider aperture also has a smaller area of focus. which means, sharp in the center blurry on the outside.
I hope this helps,
cheers!
btw john, from the looks of it, you seem to like taking pics relatively close up. if thats the case, stay away from 70-300mm type lenses for now. I have one and I rarely use it because it requires nearly a 5' distance from my subject and its so tightly framed at 70mm on a cropped sensor,
make sure you look at what the closest focus distance is on the lens.
28-135 on a cropped sensor is actually a very good focal length for almost everything.
make sure you look at what the closest focus distance is on the lens.
28-135 on a cropped sensor is actually a very good focal length for almost everything.
Originally Posted by scion_jon
ok ok,
so with the 24-70 you can zoom in and it wont really blure it will keep the same focus as opposed to zooming in with the 28-135 it will only focus on certain areas?
so with the 24-70 you can zoom in and it wont really blure it will keep the same focus as opposed to zooming in with the 28-135 it will only focus on certain areas?
the 24-70 will have the same aperture throughput the entire zoom. while the 28-135 wont. what this means is that if I set the 24-70 to 2.8 f stop. it will stay 2.8 through out the zoom. which means I dont have to worry about readjusting the settings everytime I take pictures in doors.
on the 28-135 if I zoom the aperture number keeps increasing automatically, which means less light gets in as I zoom, which means if I dont readjust the shutter speed and iso everytime I decide to change the focal length, my pictures come out underexposed.
now the reason why the 24-70 does this is because its canons top end series called "L" which is a feature found on on L lenses.
Originally Posted by kiss_kiss_kill
I'm deathly allergic to cats but that shot is GORGEOUS. He/she kinda blends into the carpet.
Awesome, Jenn.
Awesome, Jenn.
rosedaleny806 Posted: 1/8/09 9:23AM Post subject:
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lmao the antlers on the IS looks awesome haha i like that alot.
im allergic as hell to cats too but i wanna pet it lol great looking cars!
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lmao the antlers on the IS looks awesome haha i like that alot.
im allergic as hell to cats too but i wanna pet it lol great looking cars!
a few more



tell me what you guys think, critisim welcomed!
also, ive seen this before of people doing this with some of there pictures, i think its called HDR where you take a few pictures of a high, low and medium contrast and a program blends them togather. is there any free program to composite the pictures in to one?



tell me what you guys think, critisim welcomed!
also, ive seen this before of people doing this with some of there pictures, i think its called HDR where you take a few pictures of a high, low and medium contrast and a program blends them togather. is there any free program to composite the pictures in to one?
Originally Posted by kiss_kiss_kill
I'm deathly allergic to cats but that shot is GORGEOUS. He/she kinda blends into the carpet.
Awesome, Jenn.
Awesome, Jenn.
mattTc: there is no free program for HDR that i know of. the two programs that i know that does HDR are either photomatix or photoshop. both have free trial for download, but for photomatix, they leave a watermark when you convert an image into HDR. i am not sure if photoshop leaves watermark or they dont activate it for a trial version. i have both program and i find photoshop is a little bit easier to use than photomatix but photomatix is better due to more options than photoshop, in my opinion. i have to start playing with photomatix to get than hang of it.










