If you're going to add any wiring from the engine bay to the interior, DON'T do what I did!
I installed a set of aftermarket Driving Lights, and did a pretty decent job. The Incognocenti would not know the difference from Factory to my aftermarket setup.

However, when I wired the switch to the dash, I only ran the wires for the lighting. It was a BIOTCH!

Afterthought: I should have run a length of 8-10 gauge, and a couple of 14's at the same time. Then, for any future mods, I would have some wiring already in place, and NOT have to go through what I did today again!

 

what was so difficult? getting through the driver side grommet is a sinch

 

make your own hole with a gromet, do a 8ga, and a power distributon under hte drivers seat, also run an accessory turn on and a reulay. and you an run your wiring form one place. have fuses in one place and have it clean as can be!

 

oh yeah dont forget a ground wire shorter the better froma facotry botl or somewhere and a ground buss/strip/ stud whatever u want

 

sorta like i did i ran a 10 awg from the battery through the existing grommet and then into an auxilary fuse panel up under the dash. the grounds all connect onto a ground terminal block and then that connects to 1 bolt to make the ground connection. what are you talking about with relays and such?

 

hahah looiks like mine .. . i do radios & communications & specialty electrical on fire trucks & amublances & all kidns of emerbency vehicles and thats pretty much how we do small ones.. 3/4 plywood caropeted. 2 6 pole atc fuse holders, a ground ubss. 75a relay so make one buss always hot. and one buss switches. and have a ground strip.. so itl ooks clean and wire it from there.. just do nt forget the labels


ventura city seagrave truck, mdc install w/ isolated battery

 

that gormmet sucks. its a pita to get ur hand in the engine bay to grab the wire

 

dont screw around with underhood fuse holders. get a resettable waterproofe ciircuit breaker.. that way its protected.. no stupid melted housings,, and you can turn it off to work on stuf fint eh back w/o takign fuses out n stuff like that

 

wen I did my underglow I used this thing called add a circuit. connected it to the hazard lights

 

add a circuits are nice, but after a while all those individual wires get to be a PITA

 

well witha good crimp. good wire, and quality termianls.. never had any problems. and that meets gov't spec

 

I aheva ll my wires hidden. you can see some but only if you're looking carefully.

what size fuse would you recommend for the underglow? I added a 10 amp one.I think that's more than enough.and do you know where I can get a connectiong block? like the one you use for the regular underglow?

 

im not saying that it's bad or anything, but i personally feel better knowing that my wiring can't have any effect on the wiring of the car. by using my setup, i never tap into the factory wiring, so if the factory wiring does go bad for some particular reason, the dealer cant blame your aftermarket accessories

 

.. im not sure what kind of underglow. .LED. 10a should be fine.. . for real neon.. probabaly 15.. just check & see what he kit comes iwth orginally.. .. .. and waht kind fo connecting block.. like theo ne i fhave in my pic?.... and the only factory wire you need.. take it from teh key, from the radio. from wehrever.. is the accessory on wire.. i prefer the radio beczuse its off during start which helps to minimise damage due to voltage spikes on that accessory circuit

 

if it's an LED underbody kit, a 3amp will work. I know my flowlighting blaze kit is fused at 2 amps...

 

any bad about add a circuits

 

no, there's nothing bad about them. I just dont like using them because i dont like tapping factory wiring just in case something goes wrong.

 

those are the stadard intall for all emergency vehicles htat we do. adnt hey exceed govt specs and never had any problems.. . they saay 30 amp max total load. not peak theyre pretty beefy little fuse holders. much bette than the old style addacircuits

 

they are regular neons NOT leds.the connecting block has 8 slots on one side. 4 for positive and 4 for negative. on the other side it has thisplug that's for + and -.

 

ive never heard of that style. but if it combines hot & ground.. soudns like an easy one to wire.. make sure you use the same gauge of wire forboth your hot input and ground connections