and one more would you recommend painting the doors off the car ? a long with the hatch ?

 

Color sanding is basically wet sanding. Out of the cars I have done; I have never wet sanded the car down to the primer. I just scuff it up and use the existing sealant that is on the car.

You can if you want, but it's just going to be more time consuming.

I would spray and clear the jambs first. When they are fully dry, mask them off and spray the rest of the car. Keep the doors and hatch on the car. This way you can be sure the color matches from one panel to another. I have seen people remove doors, spray them, then the body. When they go to reassemble everything the color is slightly darker/lighter.

 

nice man. Ill probably start on this soon. I need to find out a color I like. I want it to be a blue color just not sure what I want. I was thinking more bout a dallas cowboys blue. What about tips with the gun.

 

1.3 for primer, base coat and clear. 1.5 for base coat, clear, and pearl flakes. 1.8 tip for metal and pearl flake mixed in clear coat.

 

Go with a NY Giants blue. Darker and more vibrant.

 

true true. dallas cowboys my team though man. darker colors harder to paint ?

 

thanks a lot flea for taking time to help me out. I feel more confident now. Ill start on this soon and see were it takes me.

 

Metallic colors are the hardest to paint. If you do it wrong you'll get a tiger stripe effect.

Any questions....just ask.

 

sweet ill give it a try. ill keep sanding it down and doing it over till it looks good.

 

There are techniques to get rid of modeling (tiger stripes). Also dont forget air pressure because that is key also. I have a 1.4 on my gun and spray everything through it. Its more personally preference. Obviously thicker material = larger fluid tip.

 

Usually tiger stripes from metalics can be avoided by an orientation coat. After that the metalic can settle in evenly throughout the whole panel. The satas we use in school to spray metalics is either a 1.3 or a 1.4 at 29 psi but i like to shoot at 25 psi.

 

True it does help, but there are also ways of spraying it to avoid the stripes. I like to go in a criss cross diaganol pattern to help with the modeling. Air pressure is also a nice way to change a color around to get it to match better if you are having problems blending it out.

 

That is true i agree and its also best to do a spray out too because some colors you get from dont 100% match. So from there you can either increase or decrease the air pressure. I remembered a couple of times where some of the colors we sprayed was darker so when we increased the pressure a bit it matched up 85 to 90% blendable.

 

I want a badgeless rear garnish - Anyone do these still? My car is BSP

 

ok so i am gonna try to stay away from metallics is it easier to shoot with higher pressure or lower ? any good guns you guys recommend ?

 

Well dont be scared to spray a metallic. They arent that hard. I would just practice (mainly spray gun overlap) a little before you go and hammer out a paint job. Air pressure all depends I would say that there really isnt a set pressure to spray at. As far as guns go I spray with strictly Sata. Very nice guns and well worth the money.

 

I wish i had that kinda money to buy sata guns. Cant really pull out $400 for each type of sata guns but they are the best.

 

If you want a decent gun you could always go for Binks, Iwata, 3M.

 

I love the 3M PPS system.

 

lets go to the paint store ken. i have my knife ready so we can match it up lol