Roll Bar Installed!!! Now With SEATS!
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Scion Justice League of America
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Why... it's a matter of safety and where I'm going in the direction for showing next season...
I wanted racing seats and harnesses for show, so in order to do this, you have to have a bar... otherwise it's not safe... I'm researching turbos currently and have N20 on the way.... so, having these safety items is a must if I want to race later on as well...
I'd have to admit, I'm a looks orientated freak, more than a pure performance junkie... but when I do either, I want to do it right and safely...
This is step one for either the look I wanted and the performance safety you need...'
BTW - My Autopower bar is SCCA Legal...
I wanted racing seats and harnesses for show, so in order to do this, you have to have a bar... otherwise it's not safe... I'm researching turbos currently and have N20 on the way.... so, having these safety items is a must if I want to race later on as well...
I'd have to admit, I'm a looks orientated freak, more than a pure performance junkie... but when I do either, I want to do it right and safely...
This is step one for either the look I wanted and the performance safety you need...'
BTW - My Autopower bar is SCCA Legal...
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looks nice man.... i moved out of san diego about a month ago.. wish i could've spent my time with autopower down there when i could... i'm back in the bay area now... oh.. hi rick! haha..
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Scion Justice League of America
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From: Portland, Oregon
Ok.... First Post Updated with more pics and Shots of the New SEATS!
If anyone has questions, I'd be glad to answer.... They are "Fun" to install....
If anyone has questions, I'd be glad to answer.... They are "Fun" to install....
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Scion Justice League of America
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From: Portland, Oregon
Yep.... Addicted to the core....
Coming up soon...
Harnesses.... (As soon as I can find reasonably priced ones that I like)
CC A pillar 3 guage paint match and install
Pics and Video Review of the Precision Muffler Cat Back with my headers....
Engine Bay LED install
My CARPC, currently being slowly assembled.... like one part per week. (Pricey Bugger)
Just don't have the TIME.
Coming up soon...
Harnesses.... (As soon as I can find reasonably priced ones that I like)
CC A pillar 3 guage paint match and install
Pics and Video Review of the Precision Muffler Cat Back with my headers....
Engine Bay LED install
My CARPC, currently being slowly assembled.... like one part per week. (Pricey Bugger)
Just don't have the TIME.
Flint, please read the whole thread before posting such things;)
You would of seen that the harness bar and the angle bar are both bolt in units and can be removed when you need the back seats;) In fact you can just remove the harness bar and leave the crossbar in and still use the back seats.
You would of seen that the harness bar and the angle bar are both bolt in units and can be removed when you need the back seats;) In fact you can just remove the harness bar and leave the crossbar in and still use the back seats.
I looked into that idea for our car, problem is losing fold down cargo area expansion and finding seats that would fit, it would have to be low back seats and the bottoms would have to be very very thing and fit into the shape of the car or you would have no headroom at all. And you would have to build headrests of some sort.
I am affraid it would most likely end up looking totally ricey unless alot of time and effort went into making it functional.
Our plan is to use the stock bottom seat cushion and rebuild the upper one(it is very heavy, the bottoms are low in weight) and then reupholster all the seats, doors, headliner, pillars, dash in some very nice dark charcoal fabric we just bought.
The upper seat section has alot of steel in it, we are going to redo it out of aluminum and make is simpler with more foam, still very comfortable and reshaped to look more like the front seats.
Rick
I am affraid it would most likely end up looking totally ricey unless alot of time and effort went into making it functional.
Our plan is to use the stock bottom seat cushion and rebuild the upper one(it is very heavy, the bottoms are low in weight) and then reupholster all the seats, doors, headliner, pillars, dash in some very nice dark charcoal fabric we just bought.
The upper seat section has alot of steel in it, we are going to redo it out of aluminum and make is simpler with more foam, still very comfortable and reshaped to look more like the front seats.
Rick
When using airbags I remove the sensor and make a mount to fit on the new rails, have to set it up for the correct position for seat for and aft range.
There is a seat cushion sensor in the passenger seat, have to pull up the covering and peal it off the foam then install it in the new passenger seat.
Things could be a bit different on the TC, I am referring to our last project car, the Matrix with Recaro SRD's we used there.
On our tC no worries, we removed all the airbags
Rick
There is a seat cushion sensor in the passenger seat, have to pull up the covering and peal it off the foam then install it in the new passenger seat.
Things could be a bit different on the TC, I am referring to our last project car, the Matrix with Recaro SRD's we used there.
On our tC no worries, we removed all the airbags

Rick
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Scion Justice League of America
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From: Portland, Oregon
I'll have to voltage test the sensor to see if I can fab something up... I'll probably end up mounting it close to the rail statically, as I'm never too close to the stearing wheel anyways... I'm way too tall.
In regards to the rear seats... No way you could fit any racing seat I've seen so far back there and make it look good... just the setup of the rear area alone makes it a challenge, (If you've seen the rear with the rear seats out) Plus, a two door car with rear racing seats just doesn't "Fit". Not like your hauling 3 people around on a track.
Rick's Idea and plan is probably the best for performance needs... but I like to keep a semi-OEM look all around and am not a weight concious (as his tC is for auto-x and mine is for show/occasional fun days), so I kept them back there... (It also ensures good comfort for my passengers when I have the harness and diag out as well)
It's all step by step.... Bar/Seats/Harnesses... then brakes, then bigger power gains...
In regards to the rear seats... No way you could fit any racing seat I've seen so far back there and make it look good... just the setup of the rear area alone makes it a challenge, (If you've seen the rear with the rear seats out) Plus, a two door car with rear racing seats just doesn't "Fit". Not like your hauling 3 people around on a track.
Rick's Idea and plan is probably the best for performance needs... but I like to keep a semi-OEM look all around and am not a weight concious (as his tC is for auto-x and mine is for show/occasional fun days), so I kept them back there... (It also ensures good comfort for my passengers when I have the harness and diag out as well)
It's all step by step.... Bar/Seats/Harnesses... then brakes, then bigger power gains...
Originally Posted by WeDriveScions
I'll have to voltage test the sensor to see if I can fab something up... I'll probably end up mounting it close to the rail statically, as I'm never too close to the stearing wheel anyways... I'm way too tall.
--That will work but be carefull, do testing with power disconnected;) Actually on the stock sensor it is just a magnetic switch unless they changed it to IR, etc. I would just test whether open or closed for your seating position and hard wire the plug from the SRS CPU if closed, leave disconnected if an open. The only issue if anybody else drives the car with the seat close they could be at risk of the air bag blowing at the wrong time, probaby not much of a bigger risk of having one pop in your face anyway.
In regards to the rear seats... No way you could fit any racing seat I've seen so far back there and make it look good... just the setup of the rear area alone makes it a challenge, (If you've seen the rear with the rear seats out) Plus, a two door car with rear racing seats just doesn't "Fit". Not like your hauling 3 people around on a track.
--I agree as well, even four door cars I have seen look really dorky to me, at best you could use low back seats but they look so out of place and still would sit way to high up on the seat bottom.
Rick's Idea and plan is probably the best for performance needs... but I like to keep a semi-OEM look all around and am not a weight concious (as his tC is for auto-x and mine is for show/occasional fun days), so I kept them back there... (It also ensures good comfort for my passengers when I have the harness and diag out as well)
--My plan is the best, but it is alot of effort to save 20 lbs or so, we are just really **** about this car being as lite as we can make it and as fast as well can as well as still look good and function well. That part of the plan is way on the back burner by the way, far to many other more important issues first.
It's all step by step.... Bar/Seats/Harnesses... then brakes, then bigger power gains...
--That will work but be carefull, do testing with power disconnected;) Actually on the stock sensor it is just a magnetic switch unless they changed it to IR, etc. I would just test whether open or closed for your seating position and hard wire the plug from the SRS CPU if closed, leave disconnected if an open. The only issue if anybody else drives the car with the seat close they could be at risk of the air bag blowing at the wrong time, probaby not much of a bigger risk of having one pop in your face anyway.
In regards to the rear seats... No way you could fit any racing seat I've seen so far back there and make it look good... just the setup of the rear area alone makes it a challenge, (If you've seen the rear with the rear seats out) Plus, a two door car with rear racing seats just doesn't "Fit". Not like your hauling 3 people around on a track.
--I agree as well, even four door cars I have seen look really dorky to me, at best you could use low back seats but they look so out of place and still would sit way to high up on the seat bottom.
Rick's Idea and plan is probably the best for performance needs... but I like to keep a semi-OEM look all around and am not a weight concious (as his tC is for auto-x and mine is for show/occasional fun days), so I kept them back there... (It also ensures good comfort for my passengers when I have the harness and diag out as well)
--My plan is the best, but it is alot of effort to save 20 lbs or so, we are just really **** about this car being as lite as we can make it and as fast as well can as well as still look good and function well. That part of the plan is way on the back burner by the way, far to many other more important issues first.
It's all step by step.... Bar/Seats/Harnesses... then brakes, then bigger power gains...
Rick
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Scion Justice League of America
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,594
From: Portland, Oregon
Yeah... It's magnetic.... and in the aft position, detects a higher amount of metal...
I bet I could mount it directly to the slider above the rail and it would detect the metal all the time, despite seat position... as I'm the only one driving the tC... If I even sell it, I'll return the seats to stock...
Still got to test it though... not taking any stupid chances...
I bet I could mount it directly to the slider above the rail and it would detect the metal all the time, despite seat position... as I'm the only one driving the tC... If I even sell it, I'll return the seats to stock...
Still got to test it though... not taking any stupid chances...
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dang rick..... i feel envious of you being able to do all those cool things to your car..... i mean.. talking about rebuilding the stock seats.... WOW....
all of a sudden i wished i lived in oregan....
Good planning and execution are vital to any serious project and what you are doing is very serious, good for you

Sq, I can only do these things because I choose to do them. I have been a DIY guy all my life and have figured out many things so I have a big data base to draw from when I want to try something new, this helps alot. BUT, just getting out there and doing it is the real key, make a mistake, figure out a better way, build something you end up not liking, it is not a failure at all, it was a valuable lesson.
My only problem is I could always use just that one more expensive tool(I have many) even more so, more time! So many things I still want to learn to do well, getting pretty good at MIG welding so next I want to teach myself how to TIG, then on to something else to learn next, such fun!!!
Rick


Sq, I can only do these things because I choose to do them. I have been a DIY guy all my life and have figured out many things so I have a big data base to draw from when I want to try something new, this helps alot. BUT, just getting out there and doing it is the real key, make a mistake, figure out a better way, build something you end up not liking, it is not a failure at all, it was a valuable lesson.
My only problem is I could always use just that one more expensive tool(I have many) even more so, more time! So many things I still want to learn to do well, getting pretty good at MIG welding so next I want to teach myself how to TIG, then on to something else to learn next, such fun!!!
Rick


