~ 200hp w/o F/I?
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Originally Posted by soros151
Originally Posted by TCpete
Originally Posted by soros151
Originally Posted by SandMPerformance
theres still the fact that some of the minority still speaks up
noobs FTL lol...What did ppl expect. Stupid questions get stupid answers. If u think something has already been covered in another post, which always happens, then SEARCH IT!
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Originally Posted by weeloTC
Originally Posted by soros151
Originally Posted by TCpete
Originally Posted by soros151
Originally Posted by SandMPerformance
theres still the fact that some of the minority still speaks up
noobs FTL lol...What did ppl expect. Stupid questions get stupid answers. If u think something has already been covered in another post, which always happens, then SEARCH IT!
Why don't you just tell the mods to delete the SEARCH button at the same time.
We have the search button because we don't like wasting breath on the same topic, EEEEVERRYYYYYTIMEEEEE someone asks the SAAAAAMEEEEE question.
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and that i understand, only if the search button did alittle better on filtering what it is you are looking for, i put in rota wheels on a tc and got stuff that had nothing to do for anything in my search
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I understand what you are saying also, but that's why I have spent 1 to 2 hours looking for the info I need, and then keep the link for others and make it easier for them.
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i guess im just use to other forums where instead of spending hours searching, someone would just ask the question and get answers. all i was saying is for the time some waste telling someone to use search, they could just help the person out, especially something simple. thats all
^ that is the way it is here most of the time. I should have bookmarked all my important threads ...but i haven't
its all good - what I do know is:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/search.php
works better then the instant search txt field on the top of the screen - if I really have to find something harder to find ...that is what I use.
its all good - what I do know is:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/search.php
works better then the instant search txt field on the top of the screen - if I really have to find something harder to find ...that is what I use.
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From: WORLD WIDE Flossin
Originally Posted by weeloTC
Originally Posted by TCpete
Originally Posted by weeloTC
is everyone serious, your telling me that it takes all that to make 200 bph, a complete motor rebuild, all that is needed is some decent head and intake work, a good i/h/e setup, and a re-map of the stock ecu and 200 at the craank is no problem, this site doesnt have that many guys that are really into racing, but if you go out there and search online, you'll see that there are guys pushing 200 with a stock bottom-end. unless you just want to go that route, theres no reason to do so unless you plan on pushing some serious hp, but 200 isnt that crazy
bro are you serious?? shows how much u know jack about the 2az...stock the motor is what 145-150 maybe actual WHP on a manual tc... ok lets add the basics... I/H/E your lookeding at what 165-175 on average with GOOD PARTS NOT EBAY SHIZ...ok so now u have 30+ on average more whp to gain.. your going to tell me your gonna gain 30+ HP on a 4 cylinder from just head work and tuning alone on this head and motor with its low compression 9.6 bottom.. YOUR FULL OF IT... your going to get around 10-15 maybe even 20 if your lucky whp from a FULL HEAD upgrade (p&p, new valves, retainers, valve springs all oversized to match) + if you tell me all i need after that are some cams THEN YOUR REALLY FULL OF IT... since our motor operates on timing and not lift.. ok so then what after a head upgrade your looking what a good 17X-194 (thats gracious IMO on my poart to say that) range and now you looking to make up another 10+ from adding timing and fuel on an engine thats low revving and maxed out SUUUUUREEEEE... theres only so much timing u can give before you here a nice PING and now ur screwed because your knocking and have to retard timing to get it back from PINGING... ok so after all that were are you going to scrounge up the left over whp to berak 200??? u cant.. you've already done more then enough to the top before your forced to break into the bottom.... and the only other thing left to do before breaking the bottom is either A) ITB setup or B) a new intake manifold with really long runners in which we have very little room to work with in case you havent checked the clearance from the firewall to the intake manifold which is why its shapped the way it is...
yea bro ok.. IM BEGGING YOU to show me stock bottom end tc's breaking 200 WHP.. on a tune and head upgrade with I/H/E ....
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=194455
thats how i know bro.. and yea im on the east coast also...
and if you beleive everything that ZPI says about their stage 2 head then you my friend can join the 100+ other retards that think that buying a head with an emanage will automatically give you the power or give you exactly what they say or will make wonders on your motor..fine if you wana beleive what ZPI says on that matter.. but judging on the last few months of that company and the lack of support and proof on their heads.. i would think twice before pushing them foward on that ....
<-- is ur friend bro.. use it. / ur input on this thread.
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well theres no doubt you have a clean car, but like i said before, no one truly knows what can be done cause everyone says they are going to do a simple build and turns it around to something completly different, no offense, you have a motor that will last by the mod list, but im not spending that kind of money to only pull 190 to the tires, if a head only gets me to the 180 range, then so be it, thats still almost 200 at the crank and ill be happy with that, alittle shot of gas and ill be wehre i need to be. thats all im saying
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im not that stupid, i understand that whp is greater then at the crank, but this whole thread started by a guy asking a simple question 200hp out of his car, never once did he say at the wheels or at the crank, we dont even know if he is auto or manual, so all i did was suggest something, thats all, and the whole time i was seaking i was saying that it would put those numbers out at the crank, sorry if i stepped on your turf, didnt relieze no one else was allowed to "suggest" something different then a complete motor build. like i said before, this is my first 2az, i have always been around camaros and mustangs til i joined the military, so i might not know that much about this car, but believe me, i have plently of knowledge when it comes to cars, bikes, and now planes
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thats nice i've built push rods too... but bro in all hoestly.. who the hell ever talks or cares what you make at the crank?? no one cars about that or feels like dealing with the math in loss of hp/tq when it finally goes down through the power train.. get real bro..lol no one drives on cranks!
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i know what your trying to say, and i dont disagree, i just dont like how when it comes to forums, everyone is out to try to put what othes say down, especially those that have been on the site for a while, rather then give pointers or suggest, such as i was, they go straight to what they feel and its that way or no way, of course a built motor makes more power, and wheel hp is better then at the flywheel. but there is no need to always come at someone like they are stupid just cause they suggest something. but i guess you get that on any forum you sign up too. guess its better to live and learn then to ask someone what they think
^ive just always asked what i thought but then would add "if someone knows of a past post on this topic please link me" ....which will show the other forum members you are trying to find the answer.
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I believe 200 whp can be done. If tCpete believe's 170 whp is doable w/ an i/h/e + you add a pulley thats about 10 more and you take out the balance shafts thats 7 more (it's been done and dyno'ed) now your at 187 Now you bypass the water going through your throttle body, and run a cooler thermostat, and open up the gap on your spark plugs a little will probably grab you 3-5 more whp. So now your at around 190 ish.. Now wouldn't a good EMS with a good tune at least make 10 more? That would get you to the 200 mark 
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^^^^at the crank, yes, but like tcpete said, they are more considered with at the tires, which i understand, but i feel with the setup you said, along with some head work, and around 190-200 at the ground can be done without having to rebuild the bottom end
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Originally Posted by Matt_Burgess
I believe 200 whp can be done. If tCpete believe's 170 whp is doable w/ an i/h/e + you add a pulley thats about 10 more and you take out the balance shafts thats 7 more (it's been done and dyno'ed) now your at 187 Now you bypass the water going through your throttle body, and run a cooler thermostat, and open up the gap on your spark plugs a little will probably grab you 3-5 more whp. So now your at around 190 ish.. Now wouldn't a good EMS with a good tune at least make 10 more? That would get you to the 200 mark
All the other things you mentioned? Did them all, no difference. I made a how to change the thermostat on the car and a load test to see the engine temps. No luck there. Gap on the spark plugs, don't risk it, not worth it. 1whp and thats the less han the error margin of a Dynojet.
Please
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You want real answers, and not speculation, here it is:
Our race motor has I/H/E/P. It has a half point bump in compression. The head is ported, polished, matched. It has 1 mm overbore valves, upgraded springs and retainers. Balance shaft assembly is removed. It is tuned on a Dezod AEM box and is running 100 octane race gas.
If you feel like being optimistic, on one Dynapak, yes, it makes 200 whp on the nose. Stick it on a Dynojet thought, and you're at 180 whp. This is with a dyno that is reading its weather conditions correctly and is applying SAE correction.
Those are the facts. Hope it helps. One last piece of speculation that I'll throw out there is this:
We now believe that a big bump in compression is worth more than head work on this car. Say 11:1 or higher...
Our race motor has I/H/E/P. It has a half point bump in compression. The head is ported, polished, matched. It has 1 mm overbore valves, upgraded springs and retainers. Balance shaft assembly is removed. It is tuned on a Dezod AEM box and is running 100 octane race gas.
If you feel like being optimistic, on one Dynapak, yes, it makes 200 whp on the nose. Stick it on a Dynojet thought, and you're at 180 whp. This is with a dyno that is reading its weather conditions correctly and is applying SAE correction.
Those are the facts. Hope it helps. One last piece of speculation that I'll throw out there is this:
We now believe that a big bump in compression is worth more than head work on this car. Say 11:1 or higher...
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Originally Posted by adg016
You want real answers, and not speculation, here it is:
Our race motor has I/H/E/P. It has a half point bump in compression. The head is ported, polished, matched. It has 1 mm overbore valves, upgraded springs and retainers. Balance shaft assembly is removed. It is tuned on a Dezod AEM box and is running 100 octane race gas.
If you feel like being optimistic, on one Dynapak, yes, it makes 200 whp on the nose. Stick it on a Dynojet thought, and you're at 180 whp. This is with a dyno that is reading its weather conditions correctly and is applying SAE correction.
Those are the facts. Hope it helps. One last piece of speculation that I'll throw out there is this:
We now believe that a big bump in compression is worth more than head work on this car. Say 11:1 or higher...
Our race motor has I/H/E/P. It has a half point bump in compression. The head is ported, polished, matched. It has 1 mm overbore valves, upgraded springs and retainers. Balance shaft assembly is removed. It is tuned on a Dezod AEM box and is running 100 octane race gas.
If you feel like being optimistic, on one Dynapak, yes, it makes 200 whp on the nose. Stick it on a Dynojet thought, and you're at 180 whp. This is with a dyno that is reading its weather conditions correctly and is applying SAE correction.
Those are the facts. Hope it helps. One last piece of speculation that I'll throw out there is this:
We now believe that a big bump in compression is worth more than head work on this car. Say 11:1 or higher...
Now, that's what I call real life experience. How the tune on that engine. Highest EGTs you guys see, and highest AFRs you guys see?
^ yea but these guys are running race gas - You can get some better results with race gas (due to your tune) and surely you will get better results with higher compression pistons. I wouldn't tell someone to get head work done unless they were running FI