Can't remember if the 2006 is 1st or 2nd generation.

65000 miles on my car.

I have to press like 3/4th of the way down for the clutch to engage. and lately once in a while each day
the clutch pedal stays down and doesn't spring back up. so i have to push it up with my foot. stock clutch.

Any ideas? one dealership is charging me $2900 for parts and labor, another $2200

Ouch

I'd rather sell it to Carmax before the clutch goes out than pay that money for a new clutch on a $6000 KBB car.

Someone i asked told me to check the clutch fluid? I didn't realize a clutch needed oil. i thought only an automatic transmission did.

The manual doesn't say anything or where to check clutch oil.

Help?

____

 

It's not oil for the clutch. It's the fluid used to drive the hydraulic system that disengages the clutch. In the tC, it's simply brake fluid (DOT3. DOT4 is also compatible), and the reservoir is shared with the brake system.

Check the fluid level on the brake booster. After that, try bleeding the clutch slave cylinder to get out any air that may be present. It's located right in the front of where the engine and transmission meet. Watch Youtube videos of how to do this. It's a two man job, but easy.

If that doesn't solve the issue, then most likely the clutch master or slave cylinder (or both) is defective and needs to be replaced. If so, you can get a much better price at a trusted local mechanic.

 

wow thanks for the info. i did talk to someone who owns a place but its just someone with their own business not a dealership. he asked me to check the fluid first.

when you say brake booster you just mean the container that holds the brake fluid, correct? im still wondering though because when i get an oil change at the dealer topping all fluids is included supposedly, so that has me worried it may not be the fluid.

i will definitely check the brake container fluid (brake booster if thats what its called) when i get home from work.

thanks again

 

The brake booster is actually that black metal drum that the fluid reservoir is connected to, but yes, that's what I'm talking about. Right next to the driver's side shock tower. If there's enough fluid, the next thing to do is to bleed the hydraulic system. Air in the line can also have the symptoms you're describing.

 

sounds like bad throwout bearing or clutch slave cylinder but save that money

If you need to replace the clutch, i can guide you personally and with my tutorial. if you live near. i can come over but here you go

https://youtu.be/QHA5YpNiFf4

 

well the brake fluid is almost to the top so it must be one of those other things. im in l.a. jayhipster, cool video. i dont dare try doing the job myself.

ill just have to go to a mechanic, not a dealer though no way am i paying them over 2k

 

im just going to buy the clutch master and slave cylinders and have a local mechanic install.


where do you order these parts? trying to avoid buying from the dealership.

 

I recommend Rockauto for reasonably priced parts. I've purchased quite a lot from them over the years. Stick to some of the better brands though.

 

so i took the car to an independent auto repair shop.

he test drove the car and said its definitely one of the clutch cylinders. he advised me to buy both master cylinder and slave cylinder. he even showed me where both were under the hood.

i got these prices from a toyota dealership.

clutch master cylinder $127.98 part #31420-20070

clutch slave cylinder (cylinder assembly clutch release) $80.98 part #31470-42031

i dont want to get robbed by the dealership and they wanted me to special order from them.

ill try Rockauto and see the price difference. any more recommendations where to by stock oem parts welcome.

 

i found this site, ill save about $80 on both parts here

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/

is this site legit?

 

Haven't use that site, but the Toyota brand part really aren't all that expensive. The labor is gonna make up the majority of the cost, not that it's difficult for an average mechanic.