200hp NA tC..
no way it can be done without spending too much on it. It takes brains and engineering to make it work, no money, i only have 2000 grand in mine and it is twice as fast as the factory ones.KNOW COME ON PEOPLE EVERYBODY NEEDS TO SUPPORT FOR THERE NEED FOR SPEED AND NOT POST RUDE COMMENTS. SO SHOW THE LOVE PEOPLE.
IF YOU BUILD IT YOU CAN RACE IT,AND IF YOU BUILD IT RIGHT IT WILL LAST :D
IF YOU BUILD IT YOU CAN RACE IT,AND IF YOU BUILD IT RIGHT IT WILL LAST :D
on the B16 making 9 WHP with a ground strap, was this an engine swap? did the Fnuggies even put a strap on at all pretest. I bet not. All the test I've seen with an OEM setup shows minimal gains and these are single coild cars, the tC has 4 coils.
Look no real NA HP is going to be found till a cam that is bigger then a Camry's OEM cam is found, the cam is the heart of any NA build and there are no cams yet and the tC has a nonadjustable mechanical cam over bucket meaning it is going to take a whole lot of custom work, along with weak low friction valve springs, read that as no room for real valve springs, along with a really really thin low friction front timing chain ( a new first for Totyota). Geez that is a whole lot of custom R&D now: Cams, springs, shims on custom buckets, timing chain and gear set. Like never happen IMO, at least as long as I plan on owning the car.
Look no real NA HP is going to be found till a cam that is bigger then a Camry's OEM cam is found, the cam is the heart of any NA build and there are no cams yet and the tC has a nonadjustable mechanical cam over bucket meaning it is going to take a whole lot of custom work, along with weak low friction valve springs, read that as no room for real valve springs, along with a really really thin low friction front timing chain ( a new first for Totyota). Geez that is a whole lot of custom R&D now: Cams, springs, shims on custom buckets, timing chain and gear set. Like never happen IMO, at least as long as I plan on owning the car.
for those who are disbelievers, here is the the post for www.apexi.com i think this it,It shows the dyno gain of 9 horsepower on honda, i due not know what i will get out of mine, but i hope with my setup i can get at least 180 to the ground and i will find out on the 18th and post for you guys
look did they tune the car up first, test the condition of the factory coil, charging system, and factory ground strap. Maybe the stock one was broken or left off. Unless this test was done on a car that was at least upto OEM stock, I think it is worthless. He check the link above on the Lude less then 1 HP OK?
OK back to you how is the "magic" going to work? The coil will have more power for the plug right? Gee there are 4 coils on the tC, um I think it has all the spark it needs. But go ahead, not my money....
OK back to you how is the "magic" going to work? The coil will have more power for the plug right? Gee there are 4 coils on the tC, um I think it has all the spark it needs. But go ahead, not my money....
Originally Posted by czardante
no way it can be done without spending too much on it. It takes brains and engineering to make it work, no money, i only have 2000 grand in mine and it is twice as fast as the factory ones.KNOW COME ON PEOPLE EVERYBODY NEEDS TO SUPPORT FOR THERE NEED FOR SPEED AND NOT POST RUDE COMMENTS. SO SHOW THE LOVE PEOPLE.
IF YOU BUILD IT YOU CAN RACE IT,AND IF YOU BUILD IT RIGHT IT WILL LAST :D
IF YOU BUILD IT YOU CAN RACE IT,AND IF YOU BUILD IT RIGHT IT WILL LAST :D
As far as taking brains and engineering, you aren't seriously expecting us to beleive that you, in all of your infinite wisdom, managed to outsmart not onlyToyota, but every other tuner out there? Give us a break. Experienced tuners on here have told you it isn't possible, at least not in an economical manner. If you want to continue arguing the point, fine. Keep a detailed list of parts you've spent, and do a dyno run after each part is installed. When you get to 200 whp, and have proof to back it up, let us know.
The rest of us know better, and we don't care.
if you're looking for the extra horsies for extra speed, and you don't particularly care if it'll pass inspection, you could remove all non-essential components of the car (i.e. roof, passenger seat, passenger side of car, roof, hatch, bumpers, spare, cut off the car behind the back tires....you know, anything you aren't touching when you drive!)
i'm sure on stock components (minus those removed) you would be pulling times faster then a heavier truly stock tc, and probably around a 200hp tc...
i'm sure on stock components (minus those removed) you would be pulling times faster then a heavier truly stock tc, and probably around a 200hp tc...
ok i was just saying that it was faster than stock know, gezzzzzz give a guy a break i was hoping to crack the 200 horsepower but everbody is no no no no , so ok i understand i was just making converstion, so chill out people lets just continue to have fun with mods on are cars.
the only reason anyone jumped on you is cause you made some pretty outrageous claims....I won't go into details about that, no sense in beating a dead horse, but heres a few tips:
when Oldman, Engifineer, Sciondad, and Matty-tc talk, LISTEN TO THEM. I've been around cars and tuning for a very long time (16 years) and those four people are some of the more knowledgeable people I've run across on this board. Plus, none of them seems to have any kind of ego, so if they tell you something, it's not about proving a point, it's just straight information, that's almost always right on the money. Particularly with Oldman and engifineer, they are *very* technically oriented.
Anytime five or more people all tell you the same thing, and disagree with you, take a good look at what they are saying. Be objective, could you mistaken about what you are saying?
Don't make outrageous claims (emotional arguing) to make a point. Use technical, empirical, and logical data to make and support your argument.
Examples:
bad- I've done all that stuff to my car, and it's twice as fast as the facotry tc's
good- I've done all that stuff, and I did a baselie dyno before, and a dyno afterwards. here are the results...also, I ran the 1/4 a few times before, and I ran the 1/4 a few times after, here's my times slips.
Obviously don't say such things unless they are true.
Again, I'm not trying to pick on you, I'm trying to help you, if you want to be taken seriously, and have people listen to what you are saying.
when Oldman, Engifineer, Sciondad, and Matty-tc talk, LISTEN TO THEM. I've been around cars and tuning for a very long time (16 years) and those four people are some of the more knowledgeable people I've run across on this board. Plus, none of them seems to have any kind of ego, so if they tell you something, it's not about proving a point, it's just straight information, that's almost always right on the money. Particularly with Oldman and engifineer, they are *very* technically oriented.
Anytime five or more people all tell you the same thing, and disagree with you, take a good look at what they are saying. Be objective, could you mistaken about what you are saying?
Don't make outrageous claims (emotional arguing) to make a point. Use technical, empirical, and logical data to make and support your argument.
Examples:
bad- I've done all that stuff to my car, and it's twice as fast as the facotry tc's
good- I've done all that stuff, and I did a baselie dyno before, and a dyno afterwards. here are the results...also, I ran the 1/4 a few times before, and I ran the 1/4 a few times after, here's my times slips.
Obviously don't say such things unless they are true.

Again, I'm not trying to pick on you, I'm trying to help you, if you want to be taken seriously, and have people listen to what you are saying.
I am sorry, but they are lying about that 9hp. A ground kit does improve ground point voltage drops, hence does improve performance. But keep in mind that these effects are not "feelable" and can be easily lost in the noise when it comes to other variables. They did more to the car than just the ground kit before realizing 9hp. As I have said before, the BEST I have ever seen was around 3 HP on a 300HP engine... That is a 1% gain. Whoopee. Now, for adding large sound systems, sensitive electronics, etc, the ground kit is not a bad idea.
Now, I think that we could approach 200 BHP NA with the right intake, head, cams, throttle body, header and exhaust.. but you are looking at some more serious money for that. But doing all of the above correctly would make for a good FI setup later, so it would not be a waste in any way.
I will be more happy to push 225 - 250 WHP down the road using FI. I dont want a non-steerable straight line racer. That is plenty of power to hold its own against most of the street 4 bangers out there and will still be manageable off the line, on the curves (which is much more fun to me), on the wallet etc.
I will be more happy to push 225 - 250 WHP down the road using FI. I dont want a non-steerable straight line racer. That is plenty of power to hold its own against most of the street 4 bangers out there and will still be manageable off the line, on the curves (which is much more fun to me), on the wallet etc.
Originally Posted by czardante
ok i was just saying that it was faster than stock know, gezzzzzz give a guy a break i was hoping to crack the 200 horsepower but everbody is no no no no , so ok i understand i was just making converstion, so chill out people lets just continue to have fun with mods on are cars.
Definitely not bashing your idea at all. I am all for thinking out of the box and trying new things. That is what it is all about really (not trying to beat the nearest civic down the street
Thread Revival
Since this is one of the earlier threads on powering up our tC's to 200WHP N/A and it is 2 years old. I think a update from some of the engine/power guru's is in order.
The S/C is out and gives you 200WHP for around 3k$
Lots of Engine mods are out that could give you 200WHP for +5k$
Some drivers, including myself, are still looking to play with N/A over F/I.
Since this is one of the earlier threads on powering up our tC's to 200WHP N/A and it is 2 years old. I think a update from some of the engine/power guru's is in order.
The S/C is out and gives you 200WHP for around 3k$
Lots of Engine mods are out that could give you 200WHP for +5k$
Some drivers, including myself, are still looking to play with N/A over F/I.
way to ressurect!
I was toying with the idea of going forced induction, but i think for the majority of people who drive our car its a bit too much to get into. i bet you can get 200 hp out of the dam thing without even putting crazy effort into it. By the end of this summer if i havent saved up enough for a furbo build i will probably go I/H/E, pulleys, and have some dough left to spend.... what other power mods are out there that I could do in my back yard? I think that is the question that alot of scion owners ask themselves all the time... who has ideas? lets get this discussion going
I was toying with the idea of going forced induction, but i think for the majority of people who drive our car its a bit too much to get into. i bet you can get 200 hp out of the dam thing without even putting crazy effort into it. By the end of this summer if i havent saved up enough for a furbo build i will probably go I/H/E, pulleys, and have some dough left to spend.... what other power mods are out there that I could do in my back yard? I think that is the question that alot of scion owners ask themselves all the time... who has ideas? lets get this discussion going
It is very possible with the tc to achieve 200whp NA. The only problem is you will probably have to spend a ton of money lets give a figure of 8000 for full bolt ons and a fully built engine with high compression pistons.
Before someone says anything here is what I mean by a fully built motor
P&P Head, 3 angle valve job, 1mm over sized valves, double wound valve springs, zpi has titanium retainers and locks, over sized pistons with 11:1-1 compression, good connecting rods, etc.
P&P Head, 3 angle valve job, 1mm over sized valves, double wound valve springs, zpi has titanium retainers and locks, over sized pistons with 11:1-1 compression, good connecting rods, etc.
What about now the MMW headers, Intake, Exhaust, ZPI Stage 1 head which is good for supposedly 24 hp on stock everything else w/o a tune and a Camcon which is once again supposed to be good for 12-14 hp from what I remember reading. That would put you rite at 200whp would it not?
I had a Camcon, don't get one! The Camcon worked when my motor was almost all stock but my afr was getting horrible and the Camcon wouldn't do anything for me after the mods. Go with Greddy Emanage Ultimate or Standalone. I haven't even got internals yet and I already need a standalone b/c the stock ecu sucks! My afr wot sometimes gets down in to the low 11's even with the ultimate it helps but it still only works about 75%. Keep in mind piggybacks are only good for wot. My part throttle is lean at the bottom and really rich up top.






