75000 Miles Spark Plug Installation Questions
Not sure if I have had the spark plugs replaced. Maybe I have. Not sure. But I wanted to get new ones. I heard of this brand called NGK. Is there a store I can buy these? I heard I don't need to adjust the gap on these spark plugs? Where do they go? I'm pretty sure I have to take the engine cover off?
Didn't find a thread or sticky that showed how to install spark plugs hehe.
Didn't find a thread or sticky that showed how to install spark plugs hehe.
Just order OEM plugs. You can get a whole set from TRD Sparks for like $40 shipped (ours aren't incredibly cheap b/c they're iridium). If you do choose to buy another brand (like NGK) just make sure you get the correct iridium plug for our car - do not go for those "bosch platinum whatever" crappy things. Not good for our engines. And no, you should not need to gap them.
You would take the plastic engine cover off and then the spark plugs are under each of the coil packs on top of the valve cover. Just remove one coil pack at a time, replace the spark plug, and put the coil pack back on. Then move on to the next one. It's cake.
Only watch outs I'd recommend: Try not to do this while the engine is too hot. I've heard you can accidentally over tighten them if the engine is too hot (metal has contracted and stuff). Also ... be careful threading the new ones in. That is the last place you would want to cross thread something.
I actually JUST did this like a week ago. Replaced all of mine at about 80k miles. Took me about 20 min overall - but I also had to remove a strut bar and get it out of the way.
You would take the plastic engine cover off and then the spark plugs are under each of the coil packs on top of the valve cover. Just remove one coil pack at a time, replace the spark plug, and put the coil pack back on. Then move on to the next one. It's cake.
Only watch outs I'd recommend: Try not to do this while the engine is too hot. I've heard you can accidentally over tighten them if the engine is too hot (metal has contracted and stuff). Also ... be careful threading the new ones in. That is the last place you would want to cross thread something.
I actually JUST did this like a week ago. Replaced all of mine at about 80k miles. Took me about 20 min overall - but I also had to remove a strut bar and get it out of the way.
Oh.. and here are the NGK iridiums from Dezod:
http://www.dezod.com/pd_ngk_iridium_bkr6eix11.cfm
If you didn't want to order from them (they're cool) you could I guess take the part number from those and go to your local parts store and see if they have them in stock.
http://www.dezod.com/pd_ngk_iridium_bkr6eix11.cfm
If you didn't want to order from them (they're cool) you could I guess take the part number from those and go to your local parts store and see if they have them in stock.
Just order OEM plugs. You can get a whole set from TRD Sparks for like $40 shipped (ours aren't incredibly cheap b/c they're iridium). If you do choose to buy another brand (like NGK) just make sure you get the correct iridium plug for our car. And no, you should not need to gap them.
You would take the plastic engine cover off and then the spark plugs are under each of the coil packs on top of the valve cover. Just remove one coil pack at a time, replace the spark plug, and put the coil pack back on. Then move on to the next one. It's cake.
Only watch outs I'd recommend: Try not to do this while the engine is too hot. I've heard you can accidentally over tighten them if the engine is too hot (metal has contracted and stuff). Also ... be careful threading the new ones in. That is the last place you would want to cross thread something.
I actually JUST did this like a week ago. Replaced all of mine at about 80k miles. Took me about 20 min overall - but I also had to remove a strut bar and get it out of the way.
You would take the plastic engine cover off and then the spark plugs are under each of the coil packs on top of the valve cover. Just remove one coil pack at a time, replace the spark plug, and put the coil pack back on. Then move on to the next one. It's cake.
Only watch outs I'd recommend: Try not to do this while the engine is too hot. I've heard you can accidentally over tighten them if the engine is too hot (metal has contracted and stuff). Also ... be careful threading the new ones in. That is the last place you would want to cross thread something.
I actually JUST did this like a week ago. Replaced all of mine at about 80k miles. Took me about 20 min overall - but I also had to remove a strut bar and get it out of the way.
Also thanks for help!
A 3/4" (or was it 5/8"?) spark plug socket should work. They usually have a rubber ring in them that grip the plug so when you loosen it, the socket will pull it out of the hole as you remove it.
There is probably a specific torque setting for the plugs.. but I actually don't know it. Hopefully someone else can chime in with that.
There is probably a specific torque setting for the plugs.. but I actually don't know it. Hopefully someone else can chime in with that.
A 3/4" (or was it 5/8"?) spark plug socket should work. They usually have a rubber ring in them that grip the plug so when you loosen it, the socket will pull it out of the hole as you remove it.
There is probably a specific torque setting for the plugs.. but I actually don't know it. Hopefully someone else can chime in with that.
There is probably a specific torque setting for the plugs.. but I actually don't know it. Hopefully someone else can chime in with that.
Over 100,000 miles, because they are iridium plugs.
We dont have a timing belt, we have a timing chain. No short service interval on it like a belt.
And NGK has been around forever (very common plugs) and make good plugs. But overall Denso is probably a tad better and is what is supposed to be stock (Even though some report their tC having NGK's stock).
At 70,000 miles, if they look ok (have someone that knows what they are looking at remove and check them) then I would not worry too much about replacing them yet.
Like Ack said, let the engine cool completely before removing them. On an aluminum head, you can actually pull the threads out of the head by removing them hot.
We dont have a timing belt, we have a timing chain. No short service interval on it like a belt.
And NGK has been around forever (very common plugs) and make good plugs. But overall Denso is probably a tad better and is what is supposed to be stock (Even though some report their tC having NGK's stock).
At 70,000 miles, if they look ok (have someone that knows what they are looking at remove and check them) then I would not worry too much about replacing them yet.
Like Ack said, let the engine cool completely before removing them. On an aluminum head, you can actually pull the threads out of the head by removing them hot.
Just installed my spark plugs today! 
I put in Denso's like the stock ones I took out. The old plugs looked pretty good and clean. I had two close calls that made my heart skip:
1: the spark plug attachment got stuck to the spark plug when I screwed it in and it wouldn't come out, so i unscrewed it and got it out
2: when i tried to start the car the first time, it didn't do anything; but i tried the 2nd time and it worked!
Scionlife saves another scion owner!
I put in Denso's like the stock ones I took out. The old plugs looked pretty good and clean. I had two close calls that made my heart skip:
1: the spark plug attachment got stuck to the spark plug when I screwed it in and it wouldn't come out, so i unscrewed it and got it out
2: when i tried to start the car the first time, it didn't do anything; but i tried the 2nd time and it worked!
Scionlife saves another scion owner!
I had a start up problem a few months ago, and I replaced the spark plugs trying to fix it. The plugs my car came with were NGK. I belive NGK is part of the Denso/Toyota empire. Both Denso and NGK have two types of iridium plugs each. Long life (slight thicker electrode) and non-long life, but slightly better performance. Our manual specs the long life type.
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1432816
Denso does seem to be better overall though.
http://www.elitedubs.com/index.php/topic,2491.0.html
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1432816
Denso does seem to be better overall though.
http://www.elitedubs.com/index.php/topic,2491.0.html
tC plugs call for 100k, but I did them at 60k with Bosch 4501 plugs.
Beautiful. My mileage went up by 20 miles per tank.
The stockers needed to be replaced, so 100k was not going to happen.
I also did my coolant at 60k, not 100k.
Beautiful. My mileage went up by 20 miles per tank.
The stockers needed to be replaced, so 100k was not going to happen.
I also did my coolant at 60k, not 100k.
Ok guys I need help or advice!!!
I installed the plugs ran the car for a few minutes to make sure everything went good. I then headed to the gym. At stops and stop lights, the car was idling under 500 rpm!!
I was so scared that I started running through red lights LOL. (serious). I was not going to get stuck because I'm in shorts and it is like 40F outside LOL. So instead of going to gym, I made a straight path to Advance Auto Parts. I got a new battery.
After the guy put it in, the car still was the same. I asked him and he said it might be a "throttle valve for air"? I don't know.
The car at stop lights at time (less often after new battery), will rumble and go to 500 rpm or less. I thought it would shut off.
I know my spark plug install was perfection because I am pretty cautious. The battery install went well. I was blasting my system like never before. Everything works, but it idles a little less now.
Help me please!!!!
I installed the plugs ran the car for a few minutes to make sure everything went good. I then headed to the gym. At stops and stop lights, the car was idling under 500 rpm!!
I was so scared that I started running through red lights LOL. (serious). I was not going to get stuck because I'm in shorts and it is like 40F outside LOL. So instead of going to gym, I made a straight path to Advance Auto Parts. I got a new battery.
After the guy put it in, the car still was the same. I asked him and he said it might be a "throttle valve for air"? I don't know.
The car at stop lights at time (less often after new battery), will rumble and go to 500 rpm or less. I thought it would shut off.
I know my spark plug install was perfection because I am pretty cautious. The battery install went well. I was blasting my system like never before. Everything works, but it idles a little less now.
Help me please!!!!
Ok I did a search and more confused than ever!!! I read things like:
1. Dirty MAF sensor (what is MAF?)
2. Throttle?
3. Battery is learning the car again?
4. I'm supposed to clean the MAF sensor?
Man cars are too complicated these days!
1. Dirty MAF sensor (what is MAF?)
2. Throttle?
3. Battery is learning the car again?
4. I'm supposed to clean the MAF sensor?
Man cars are too complicated these days!






