in short.

When I talked to Level ten about this years ago for my cb7 (91 accord), they said that their valve body job is to strengthen and make it operate more efficiently.

Level ten and IPT are the only shops I know that do this. This does NOT mean there are no other shops available.

I am not sure if a regular shop can do this or not.

but... 600 dollars for the valve body job is not too bad. I mean look at how much clutches cost. the way I see it is that with this, you'll still be able to eat and drive. (or feel your gf up. ha ha. jk jk... no really. this is unsafe.)

So it depends on what you call 600 dollars of work. they might be sending you a pre-done valve body and keeping yours. Then it wouldn't just be a one day work. You'll need to contact them about this. Their policy might have changed.

A good shop to contact about boosting auto's and such are two shops in Chicago.

GRD performance
Top Speed

These guys know their stuff pretty well. They might be able to give you some additional info.

If you are not planning on putting down more than say... 220 whp.... then you might want to consider the PTS kit from Level 10.

This replaces the springs and such in the transmission so that the shifts are crisper and eliminates the slush between shifting gears.


p.s. Yeah i've been really busy lately. That's why I'm not on the forums much.


-Jerry-

 

Well doesnt the valve body upgarde also do this? Makes the shifts crisper and eliminates the slush between shifting gears?

 

yes. the valve body upgrade will also do this.

I'm just saying a cheaper option is the pts kit.

If you decide to build a 650 whp tc. then i would be recommending a valve body upgrade, pts kit, new torque converter, tranny oil cooler.

the pts kit is cheaper than the valve body upgrade.


i would personally rather get the valve body upgrade. But if you are unable to send in your vavle body or what not.... the next best option is the pts kit.

 

No I can send the valve body and be no problem. Level Ten and IPT is only about 2 and a half hours from my house so it would only be one day shipping it and probley have it back within 3 days.
I just want the car to have some good solid shifts.
So you would say the valve body is the better way to go?

 

i would say if you plan on building the car a lot to get the valve body done.

You might want to talk to the tech and see what they say. Ask for both IPT and Level ten's opinions.

Then maybe call some shops like GRD performance, AMS, Top Speed, etc.

while they might not deal with auto trannies and scions... they will provide you with an unbiased answer.

 

Ok I will make sure I do that!! Thanks wlfpck for all the info!!!

 

if i were just to have a tranny cooler and an upgraded valve body...
how much psi do you think i'd be able to run and what #'s would probly come from it?

 

with the valve body upgrade and a tranny oil cooler... I think you should be able to easily push around 14 psi. I don't really see why you wouldn't be able to even go higher than that.

my 91 accord ran 8 psi with the STOCK tranny.

 

Just found this thread. Any updates on that list of parts needed for the valve body and diff clutches?

 

If I were to raise the redline of the engine is there a way to raise the shift points of the auto trans? I know level ten has that box that completely removes the ability for it to shift automatically, but is there any way to change the points that it shifts automatically? I am considering doing head/cam work but it would be pointless if this cant be adjusted.

 

i think you should be able to if your tuner can figure it out.

 

Wouldn't there need to be the addition of something like a tuner or anything? I know a typical piggyback wont have any control of your transmission. Although does the trasmission just shift when you redline that gear or does it have the shift points premapped for a certain rpm?

 

Greddy Ultimate is what you will need for the tuning and rasing the rev limiter, not sure if it just raises it to lets say 7k for every gear or individually.

 

Okay I get that it will raise the rev limiter of the engine, thus allowing it to theoretically rev higher. With an auto trans though it shifts before redline on its own. If you just lay the pedal down it wont hit redline then shift, it shifts sometime before that point. How could I change the point in which it shifts? It would be pointless to have head work done allowing it to mechanically rev to 7500rpms then get tuning done so the rev limiter is also raised to 7500 rpms only to have the autotrans shift on its own at 5400rpms(estimated).

 

I think in even a stock tC, in WOT the auto shifts at a relatively high RPM. I think you have to be more worried about the big loss in RPM as soon as the shift happens though. But I know that with the Greddy Ultimate, you can change not only the rev limit but also the *shift points*. Talk to a tuner and that can be done.

 

The Auto tranny will shift at 6250 (or whatever redline is...I haven't rev'd that high in QUITE some time) if the pedal is to the floor

 

wow. good to see my discussion is still going.

From what I understand, there is no TCU chip in the tC. Therefore in order to adjust the shift points, the ECU would need to be chipped. However since we're dealing with Toyota... that won't happen. I believe someone also mentioned something about the Greddy Ultimate. I have never used one, so I can't really speak much on this.

you can however pick up the blitz throttle control. This would do nothing for the shift points or the transmission but it would help.

That box from Level ten basically turns your transmission into a sequential manual.


Another company to consider is Boost Logic. They create parts for the supra. If they can make auto trannies that hold up extremely well. If there's enough interest, they may make parts for the tC.

 

I know that I would be interested if they made parts for the tc, specially when you see what the auto supra's hold in power.

 

watching*

 

Left a message at Boost Logic. Hoping they'll get back to me soon.