Sorry it took me so long to post this but I was away
Enjoy and hope this helps some people!!!

Hey guys just wanted to let you know that today I just finished the install on my modified valve body from IPT.
I originally took out the valve body and sent it to them Monday. The box got there Tuesday morning. They tried to finish it that day but they just couldn’t get it done in time for the outgoing UPS that day. So they went ahead and finished it up first thing Wednesday and sent it out. I received it this morning and this is what it looked like!





Before all this I had to take the valve body out. By doing this I had to drop the trans pan. Then I had to loosen up the 3 bolts holding the filter on. Then I disconnected all the plugs and they removed the 17 bolts holding the valve body in. If you do this make sure you draw on a piece of cardboard and mark where all the bolts go. There are different lengths throughout the body and if you don’t it will be a pain to install once again.



Here is the cardborad that I drew on. Im not no artist!!!! LOL



This is what it will look like when you have removed the valve body.



When removing the valve body you’ll have some parts fall out with it. You’ll have 2 springs a check ball complete with a really small spring. One of the bigger springs are in some kind of cup when it comes out. Take note the smaller spring of the two goes inside the cup that way you done get them mixed up during the install.



Inside the box was also a necessary resistor that I had to install on one of the plugs of the shifting solenoid on the valve body. This resistor I was told effects how that one solenoid acts.







For the install you will need the help of a friend. before you put the valve body back in you’ll need you friend to help place the parts that fell out after removing the body. I ended up lining everything up on the valve body slowly raise the valve body back in while my friend made sure everything was staying lined up. Also take note in the back of the valve body there is the gear selector piston. Make sure you line that up with the shifter mechanism. I didn’t do this and I had to take it all back apart once done and then loosen up the valve body so I could slip it in there! It wasn’t good and I was ____es I forgot to do that!!!!
Once I got it up in there my friend went ahead and started a few bolts to hold the valve body in. Then we went around and put the rest in and this is what it looked like.

Torque bolts to 8 ft. lbs




Now to install the resistor you had to tap it into the plug with the green and orange wire (second solenoid on the passenger side toward the bock of the valve body)






Once this was done I put the pan back up and torque the bolts to 67 in. lbf

Then I put ATF in it and started it up checked the fluid and then I was ready to ride!!

This file really helped me with taking the valve body apart and install. Also gave me all the torque values and shows the check ball, 2 springs and the cup that falls out with the valve body

http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manua...2f/x040001.pdf

Hope this helps some people and if you have any questions just let me know and ill try to anserew them as best I can.

Here is IPT website
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/toyotaauto.shtml

Chris

 

What psi r u gonna run after the valve body upgrade? And how much extra hp does that help the tranny hold and how much did it cost?

 

It cost about $640 for the upgrade.
I am getting my car retuned soon and I am gonna turn the boost up till I am making about 240WHP that way the trans should be fine no matter what

 

ya the main thing u wud want to upgrade is the torque converter..

 

tranny oil cooler would be good too if you don't have that already.

 

you sure they didn't install their PTS kit too on accident SoFlo?

 

wait what?

 

*edit for my previous post*

I meant the PTS shiftronic kit. but I guess they dont sell that anymore because it's not listed.

that kit made it so that you had to manual shift...kinda like a tiptronic, but instead of the + and -, it would be like you're shifting from L to [D] and vice versa.

 

i tried it like that aswell. i think the wiring we did was messed up it wasnt giving the stock ecu a signal to shift so we just gave up

 

So your Ultimate Goal is what? High HP Track Car?
The GReddy won't Work because of the Fuel Cutoff right?
Someone like me wouldn't really need to raise the Shift Points if it's just a DD that I would just use to Fly By someone at a light or something right?

 

i wasnt using the greddy to raise the shift points i was using the greddy to set the shift points

 

Theres a Difference between the two? Excuse me if that's an Idiodic Question.

 

well writing as "raising the shift points" sounds like ur raising the redline and telling it to shift later than it normally should.. what i was trying to do was make it shift at WOT AT REDLINE because it wasnt wanting to for some reason. levelten responded it had something to do with my wiring.

 

So at that Point you wouldn't really use this as a DD right?

 

why not?

 

A bit Powerful for a DD no?

 

I want to motion this to be a sticky.

There's a lot of good info in here. Ranging from my original basic guide, answering people's questions, and mainly... tcchris38's IPT Valve Body installation

There seems to be some people asking about auto trannies. There's def. enough auto tC's rolling around.


thanks,

wlfpck

 

x2

 

*watching* I need to rebuild my tranny soon. =/

 

this is good thing to know can be done...........nice write up.