automatic to manual swap walkthru
09-18-2011, 04:03 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
automatic to manual swap walkthru
THIS THREAD IS NOT DONE STILL WRITING PROCEDURES GIVE ME TIME
For the past 5 months i was debating weather or not to convert my tc into manual because i was looking at post of people saying it was going to run me $2000 that its best to trade in.. well i got a salvage tittle tc and i paid very little to nothing for it so thats not an option so i took advantage that my car got rear ended by a truck and put in some wrench time
parts list (price is what i got them for)
transmission w slave cylinder- $300 with 34,757 miles from LKQ
shift linkage with clutch-brake pedal assembly, clutch line,clutch master cylinder,shifter assembly,shift boot,shift-****- 200$
brake master cylinder with reservoir and clutch reservoir_40$
one cv axel-$60
*i have not bought a computer or a cluster (i could care less about the light ill worry a bout that later)
the inside conversion of the car takes about 5 hrs in total(if mechanically inclined or know some what how to turn a wrench)
tools needed-10mm,12mm,14mm, plastic clip retainer remover,drill, step drill bit, a hole reamer and a set of allen wrenches, Phillips head screwdriver,hose plies(for heater core) and most importantly COMM0N SENSE.
*i am not finished yet i will post more pics when my clutch arrives and i ,make my way into the engine bay
1. disconnect battery!!!!!
ok so i started off by removing the side airbag covers in the front there on there pretty good i used a long pair of neddle nose to remove them. then i went on with removing the shifter cover and climate control these are all cliped on. then i removed the radio 10mmbolts and the 2 screws on the bottom.glove box is clipped on just be careful taking it off it has a mini shock absorber in the right side. also remove the center counsel it has 2 10mm bolts under the far back cubby hole u have to pull up the little rub it has over it.
ok after the last step take out the cluster cover its cliped on. then remove the philips head that holds it on then there is 2 10mm bolts holding the upper dash on the driver side. after that remove the upper 10mm bolt by the front driver side airbag. next go to the passenger side and lay on the floor of the vehicle u will see 2 12mm screws that hold the passenger side airbag on remove them and remove the screw by the side curtain airbag also.
now u are ready to pull up the upper part of the dashboard it comes up pretty easy i did not have to even pry on it just be careful if u feel like its not budging theres likely a screw still left just look around. but it all comes up the heaviest side would be the passenger side of course.
ok suckers next step is on the upper corners of the bottom part of the dashboard there are 2 black clips pop those out and then remove the 2 10mm bolts on the bottom of the dash one is right by the lever to pop the hood the other is on the lower passenger side then i belive there are like 2 nuts on the passenger side right were the airbag would be *you can not miss these screws*ok now for the lower airbag there are 3 12mm bolts that hold it on so get yourself under there and unbolt them and slide it out careful and on the harness it has a black clip use a skinny flat head and careful I MEAN CAREFUL slide it up that clip is really sensitive.ok also u would need to remove the driver airbag there are 2 hex screws that hold it on i think its a t-30 or a t35 then slide the driver airbag out remover the 19mm nut and pull the steering wheel PLEASE BE CAREFUL DNT SPIN THE CLOCK SPRING MORE THAT 5 TIMES EACH SIDE IT WILL BRAKE AND GIVE U AN AIRBAG LIGHT SO DNT TOUCH THAT SH*T. then just remove the turn signal and the wiper signal they are clip on use a flat head. after that you should be done, the bottom half is also cliped on so just give it little pulls and it will come up *DONT FORGET TO UNCLIP THE HARNESS ITS CLIP ON IN LIKE 3 PLACES*
ok so now you are in the zone your going to have to unbolt the fuse box it had 2 12mm nuts up top and like a 10 in the bottom (this 10 is hidden by the lower side its a little b***h if u have a big hand so have fun. then drop then unplug all those plugs u see on that fuse box (mark them if u want).
now u have this time for marking and drilling =)
i took the clutch pedal and stuck it in there and marked the hold using red paint so i would have an exact hole mark
you see!
grab a small drill bit to start the hole up *IF U DID NOT REMOVE THE FUSE BOX U WILL BE VERE UNCOMFORTABLE)
OK for this i used one of these little bits i call them a step drill u can call the w.e u want just use it and take it to about 1/2 on both holes if u look at the lower pictures i also used a reamer because the holes needed to be a little more rounded out and widened.
ok now u are ready to check if the holes are aligned right just insert the pedal in and bolted on and check if its the right side if its to hole is to small or needs to be rounded more so what you got to do to get it where it needs to be it took me like 4 trys
to inser the clutch master cylinder u might need a hand because someone has to hold the pedal while another person inserts the master in KEY(WIGGLE IT IN)
NOW bolt the 2 clutch master nuts on there 10mm and the one at the top of the pdeal assembly is a 10mm.. if u did your holes right you should have a straight pedal if you dnt then you messed up to bad so sad NOW GO FIX IT.... then move to the brake pedal is the same this 1 bolt up top and 4 on the bottom (you have to unscrew a bolt on the steering column if you look at the picture up top im pointing a extension to it take it out and u will have the necessary play to get that pin on the pedal out
ok
ok guys for pulling the heatercore i lost the pics im sorry but its really easy first off you will need to go into the engine bay and unplug 2 hoses they re right by the left side of the brake booster. then u will let some of that coolant drain out *it is not alot* then drain the a.c freon or let it leak w.e ur choice...after this go back inside and take out uper bolt holgin the ecu and the bottom one..then take out the upper bolts of the heater core there should b 3 10mm nuts.. after this unplug the harness around it which should be like 4-5 plugs.. ok now look on the bottom side of the heater core there are about 1-3 10mm bolts(black colored) that hold it together after that it should feel wobbly and just give it a lil pull it has a clip on the back side that retains it so just pull easy.. after that u will see the 2 allen wrench screws that plug into the evaporator take them out and and unplug the drain hose and pull the sucker out
For the past 5 months i was debating weather or not to convert my tc into manual because i was looking at post of people saying it was going to run me $2000 that its best to trade in.. well i got a salvage tittle tc and i paid very little to nothing for it so thats not an option so i took advantage that my car got rear ended by a truck and put in some wrench time
parts list (price is what i got them for)
transmission w slave cylinder- $300 with 34,757 miles from LKQ
shift linkage with clutch-brake pedal assembly, clutch line,clutch master cylinder,shifter assembly,shift boot,shift-****- 200$
brake master cylinder with reservoir and clutch reservoir_40$
one cv axel-$60
*i have not bought a computer or a cluster (i could care less about the light ill worry a bout that later)
the inside conversion of the car takes about 5 hrs in total(if mechanically inclined or know some what how to turn a wrench)
tools needed-10mm,12mm,14mm, plastic clip retainer remover,drill, step drill bit, a hole reamer and a set of allen wrenches, Phillips head screwdriver,hose plies(for heater core) and most importantly COMM0N SENSE.
*i am not finished yet i will post more pics when my clutch arrives and i ,make my way into the engine bay
1. disconnect battery!!!!!
ok so i started off by removing the side airbag covers in the front there on there pretty good i used a long pair of neddle nose to remove them. then i went on with removing the shifter cover and climate control these are all cliped on. then i removed the radio 10mmbolts and the 2 screws on the bottom.glove box is clipped on just be careful taking it off it has a mini shock absorber in the right side. also remove the center counsel it has 2 10mm bolts under the far back cubby hole u have to pull up the little rub it has over it.
ok after the last step take out the cluster cover its cliped on. then remove the philips head that holds it on then there is 2 10mm bolts holding the upper dash on the driver side. after that remove the upper 10mm bolt by the front driver side airbag. next go to the passenger side and lay on the floor of the vehicle u will see 2 12mm screws that hold the passenger side airbag on remove them and remove the screw by the side curtain airbag also.
now u are ready to pull up the upper part of the dashboard it comes up pretty easy i did not have to even pry on it just be careful if u feel like its not budging theres likely a screw still left just look around. but it all comes up the heaviest side would be the passenger side of course.
ok suckers next step is on the upper corners of the bottom part of the dashboard there are 2 black clips pop those out and then remove the 2 10mm bolts on the bottom of the dash one is right by the lever to pop the hood the other is on the lower passenger side then i belive there are like 2 nuts on the passenger side right were the airbag would be *you can not miss these screws*ok now for the lower airbag there are 3 12mm bolts that hold it on so get yourself under there and unbolt them and slide it out careful and on the harness it has a black clip use a skinny flat head and careful I MEAN CAREFUL slide it up that clip is really sensitive.ok also u would need to remove the driver airbag there are 2 hex screws that hold it on i think its a t-30 or a t35 then slide the driver airbag out remover the 19mm nut and pull the steering wheel PLEASE BE CAREFUL DNT SPIN THE CLOCK SPRING MORE THAT 5 TIMES EACH SIDE IT WILL BRAKE AND GIVE U AN AIRBAG LIGHT SO DNT TOUCH THAT SH*T. then just remove the turn signal and the wiper signal they are clip on use a flat head. after that you should be done, the bottom half is also cliped on so just give it little pulls and it will come up *DONT FORGET TO UNCLIP THE HARNESS ITS CLIP ON IN LIKE 3 PLACES*
ok so now you are in the zone your going to have to unbolt the fuse box it had 2 12mm nuts up top and like a 10 in the bottom (this 10 is hidden by the lower side its a little b***h if u have a big hand so have fun. then drop then unplug all those plugs u see on that fuse box (mark them if u want).
now u have this time for marking and drilling =)
i took the clutch pedal and stuck it in there and marked the hold using red paint so i would have an exact hole mark
you see!
grab a small drill bit to start the hole up *IF U DID NOT REMOVE THE FUSE BOX U WILL BE VERE UNCOMFORTABLE)
OK for this i used one of these little bits i call them a step drill u can call the w.e u want just use it and take it to about 1/2 on both holes if u look at the lower pictures i also used a reamer because the holes needed to be a little more rounded out and widened.
ok now u are ready to check if the holes are aligned right just insert the pedal in and bolted on and check if its the right side if its to hole is to small or needs to be rounded more so what you got to do to get it where it needs to be it took me like 4 trysto inser the clutch master cylinder u might need a hand because someone has to hold the pedal while another person inserts the master in KEY(WIGGLE IT IN)NOW bolt the 2 clutch master nuts on there 10mm and the one at the top of the pdeal assembly is a 10mm.. if u did your holes right you should have a straight pedal if you dnt then you messed up to bad so sad NOW GO FIX IT.... then move to the brake pedal is the same this 1 bolt up top and 4 on the bottom (you have to unscrew a bolt on the steering column if you look at the picture up top im pointing a extension to it take it out and u will have the necessary play to get that pin on the pedal out
ok
ok guys for pulling the heatercore i lost the pics im sorry but its really easy first off you will need to go into the engine bay and unplug 2 hoses they re right by the left side of the brake booster. then u will let some of that coolant drain out *it is not alot* then drain the a.c freon or let it leak w.e ur choice...after this go back inside and take out uper bolt holgin the ecu and the bottom one..then take out the upper bolts of the heater core there should b 3 10mm nuts.. after this unplug the harness around it which should be like 4-5 plugs.. ok now look on the bottom side of the heater core there are about 1-3 10mm bolts(black colored) that hold it together after that it should feel wobbly and just give it a lil pull it has a clip on the back side that retains it so just pull easy.. after that u will see the 2 allen wrench screws that plug into the evaporator take them out and and unplug the drain hose and pull the sucker out
Last edited by ziontc1189; 09-19-2011 at 12:00 AM.
01-24-2012, 11:53 PM
#14
01-26-2012, 02:30 AM
#15
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 958
Watching this thread VERY closely! Gathering parts right now to do the auto to 6 speed swap, so far so good....finding many parts cheap.
Definitely learning a lot so far....anymore progress with the swap?!!
Definitely learning a lot so far....anymore progress with the swap?!!
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