Ok, so basically, ever since I got my Auto '06 BSP tC in July of 05.. I wanted it to make it look more decent than stock by adding lowering springs and other "cosmetic" stuff.. Now I want to transfer myself into the performance section. I want my car to be STRICTLY N/A..

After doing some research, I learned that an auto tC is more of an economy car. In one thread, somebody stated a dyno run of an auto tC - 122whp/135tq STOCK. My aim is 150-160hp/140-???tq.. would it be possible, for an auto?

As of right now, I only have an Injen CAI. By next week, I will be ordering the Megan Catback.. How much of an increase in hp/tq would that be by just the Injen CAI and the Megan catback? If i was to add the Megan S-pipe and Megan headers (planning to go megan all-out).. will there be a big difference?

If the whole I/H/E setup wouldn't reach my 150-160hp goal.. is FI the only way?

Thanks in advanced.

 

hey haha, i was planning on the MR set up as well, but then i realized that if i go cheap with the car, that it wont perform as well. see the thing is, the MR has said to been dynoed, but ive never seen the results..however it does "make" 12hp to the wheels, the injen makes like 6hp, MR headers make about 7hp, and the spipe should make 5hp...so total that equals about 30hp...however this is a ruff estimate on what i remember...so you should make about 152hp to the wheels. however i plan to make a little more, like 160hp with these modds: AW headers/Injen CAI/MR s-pipe/Draxas s-pipe back/AW tb...that should make maybe 170hp to the wheels but ill say 160 just to keep it safe. also with pulleys and such youll do alot better..or how about a stage one head? o ya, i have an auto

 

Let's just be sure we're all on the same page about dynos like this. Two "5 whp mods" do not necessarily stack. 5+5 could equal 8. It could equal 11. Depends on the mods and how they work together.

Since everyone's working with the same engine... and the I/H/E/Spipe combos typically yield results about 15-20 over typical stock dynos, then you can shoot for between 135-140whp with that.

Beyond that, there are a few little things that may or may not add power, but will make you faster, achieving the same purpose. STICKY TIRES, pulleys, TIRES, head package, TIRES, suspension/camber kit, midpipe upgrades, weight reduction, TIRES, etc.

 

hey whats up bro...i too have an auto and im looking for hp... i got a injen CAI right now..and looking at alphawerks headers or DC sport...lol but yeah so ill referr to this post quite a bit...but i herd ZPI is making some insane auto parts soon so yeah

 

Be carefull on how you spend your cash. Don't follow the hype. Make sure you do your homework. Lots of the I/H/E options will take away low-end grunt that the Automatic Transmission TC's need to get moving.

Lots of the stuff you read on power this and that are from folks who have 5-speed manuals. On a 5-speed you can "force" the engine to operate in it's best power-band. When you start to mod the A/T you will not be able to "force" the tranny to operate in the area of increased power. ie you will actually be slower...

The CAI is a good mod because it sounds good and does not take too much power away. Add Headers and exhaust and you loose even more low-end torque.

 

I/H/E?


Injen, headers, exhaust?

 

Maybe with the MMW Header and complete cat back with your injen you should be around your goal or maybe even over those numbers!

 

Intake
Headers
Exhaust.

As for reaching 160HP, you're going to have to do a lot of tuning.
Sure, IHE may give you another 15whp, but 125+15 is only 140
You have 20 more wheel horsepower left to gain.
My suggestion, if you want to run completely NA, is to get your hands on ZPI's 11:1 compression pistons. And then of course, you'll need some serious tuning.
With all of that, you should be making well over 160HP, but your engine will require premium fuel.

 

Maybe I can shed a different light on the subject. do you have access to a dyno? If not, then why worry about how much HP a part makes. What advertising fails to mention is what part of the powerband does 12 HP gain come into effect? Is it high in the band or middle? Opening the exhaust( header, test pipe, cat-back) will boost your higher level of power. That includes some Torque figures , but not much. Header helps Torque a little more than a cat-back. CAI will help help HP/TQ a little too. CAI will keep intake temps more consistent, but a short ram will improve throttle response. You will have to rely more on the butt dyno more than anything. But be careful, Being San Diego, I'm sure the Law will be unhappy with your noise levels coming from the tail-pipe. I (as well as most of you) have heard the full header back exhaust and test pipe and it's Honda loud and blatty and you'll prolly end up in court with a violation. So don't waste your money with that mess. Better to work and tune the intake side first and see which you would like the "feel" of better. CAI or short ram. Maybe do lighter pulleys and an underdrive to raise throttle response too. Then work with Exhaust after that. But most important, don't worry about making top HP/TQ figures. Worry more about your driving experience in the car as a whole. That makes your mods a bit more worth while. Don't rule out suspension work either. The more adjustment, the better tunability you'll have. Maybe adjustable rear upper links and damping adjustment o the shocks with a stiffer rear sway bar will get the tC handling really good. Have fun!!

 

zpi stage 0

ive heard its actually better for autos to go turbo since our rpms will stay low? So ive heard?

 

I'm pretty sure he said he wants to stay NA, that means no forced induction.

 

ooops!

Well since he's going with I/H/E and will void the warranty once one of those fail, might as well go big?

 

His warranty is only void if the dealership can prove that an intake, header, or exhaust is causing the problem. So in other words, no, he isnt voiding any warrantys initially.

 

thats why i said "once one of those fail".

the dealer isnt dumb!

 

Well the intake shouldnt fail on him, and neither should the headers or exhaust if thats what youre talking about.

20 More hosepower being produced by this engine shouldn't put too much stress; relatively of course.

Even the TRD supercharger puts double the power of IHE to the engine and its warrantied.

 

ok

 

ok i have an automatic and i was wondering y is there such a big difference in hp between the manual and the automatic i mean 40hp and 30 tq is alot. i dont think thats true but any feedback

 

Its not just the HP and Torque numbers that are keeping the performance different, its the longet gear ratios in the automatic that make it slightly slower.

 

i know the gear ratios and everything but can that rly make that much of a difference
i mean 40hp is alot

 

It's the automatic transmission... The engine is producing the same HP as the 5-speed manual guys. The difference is that you will not be able to see the power at the wheels. That's the price you pay when you get A/T.