thought so..thanks

 

btw where u drivin ur tc around preston today around 950ish 10

 

auto tranny has more moving parts than the manual tranny. more power has to go into the tranny.

as for i/h/e, intake will get u very minor gains. if you add a header and exhaust you wont necessarily lose power. adding a header alone will get you more hp and tq. but when u add the exhaust in, you may lose low end torque, depending on the size of the piping. if you are going NA you dont want anything bigger than 2.5". right now, i'm running AW header stock s-pipe and midpipe, and greddy sp2. my draxas s-pipe (2.5") will be coming in soon. the SP2 uses 2.5" piping as well. i'm going to leave the mid pipe stock (about 2.25-.35) jus so i wont lose much of anything. i think that'll balance it out ok. but whenever i s/c im gonna change it to 2.5" as well.

Definitely upgrade you tires.

As for pulleys, they work, but if you want minimal engine wear, you should avoid them. i think the underdrive pulley messes up the auto tensioner too. but that's only if something goes wrong. but yeh, pulleys work but arent necessarily good for the car.

another upgrade you should do is an ESM. greddy emanage is more than enough for an NA car. you could get SAFC2, cheaper but less things u can control vs. the emanage. tuning your car would help quite a bit.

 

Thanks a lot for the replies guys..

Yeah, the auto's low-end really does suck.. and basically that's what I want to work on and the overall hp/tq as well..

I read the ZPI thread last night in the Forced Induction section about the E.S.K. and valve body upgrades coming out.. Will they be available to the Auto owners in general or only to the ones that have turbo/superchargers?

You gotta understand that i'm only 19 and I pay for more important things like bills, and to also support my mom with a lot of things. So basically, this is something I want to slow down with and not go all out with crazy stuff (Even though I'd love to get my hands on a Stage 0). That's why I'm planning to go all out MR, and just for you guys, i'll dyno it and post the results. Expect maybe about 2-3 weeks though. But then again, the MR setup would be the last resort that's why I want to here from you guys. So I have a couple of questions/comments for you individuals that posted:

blackonblacktc: Hey man, I did some searching about the pullies and they told me that it's only for supercharger owners(??) And also about the stage one head, you can just do that?

senseiturtle: I agree with you on the mixture of the I/H/E setup. And I noticed the 'TIRES' that you constantly put, haha. I'm still on stock rims/tires. What kind of header would you recommend that won't give me hell (CEL)?

KickAssKishan: What's up bro.. look's like we're on the same boat. Yeah, ZPI's coming up.. i'm looking forward to that. Thanks for the post.

ERIC-TC: Yeah I noticed that my tC got slower in the low-end.. but it feels like I achieved more in the high-end.. From other posts, I've heard 5-speed owners say the same thing about the low-end.

trdtcpr: I've dreamt about getting the MMW header, but then again its $650. haha.. but I assure you I will get it someday. It's all a matter of patience and saving.

TheQuietThings: Hey man, I have no knowledge in this tuning stuff. What does the ZPI 11:1 pistons do actually? And for tuning, are you talking about those E-manage/computer gadget stuff?

JDMJim: Hey man, thanks a lot for your input. Yeah, i've heard about the pullies, but lately i've been ignoring them since the last thing that hit was "You need a supercharger for pullies". SO will these pullies help in the lack of low-end?

Yanki01: Yeah, i'm not planning to go FI YET. I'm just trying to chill and stay N/A for a while.

Thanks again to all you guys trying to help.. I appreciate it..

 

Also its not getting 40 hp less to the wheels, 5 speeds get around 140 to the wheels. I'm pretty mad at myself for getting an auto....i'm just starting to realize that i need to go I/H/E plus maybe a lighter crank pully just to be as fast as the stick.

 

I have an Injen CAI right now, and I'm going to get the MR catback (version 2)... So basically all im doing is adding a deep sound to my car without any gains at all?

 

What higher compression pistons actually do, is compress more air into each cylinder, threfore making more power.

Generally - more air makes more power.

Right now, the tC's pistons take in 9.6 parts of gasoline, and 1 part of air when each cylinder combusts.

If were were to replace the pistons with higher compression pistons, each cylinder would have more air to make power with. But the problem with that, lies in the type of gasoline you will have to use.

The octane rating on gasoline is a measure of how much pressure it can handle before it fully combusts. With 87 octane, the gasoline will be combusting too early, and as a result, you'll get decreased performance, and gas mileage.

However, higher octane will be able to correct that problem. For example, 93 octane takes more pressure to fully combust than 87 octane.

The next problem we have is the timing. Youre going to need some kind of emanage to keep each cylinders timing correct with the change in octane and compression ratio. I have no personal experience with any of the emange out there, but it is definetely a necessity.

If the emange doesnt include a air fuel controller, [which it should!], then i also suggest getting a SAFC [standalone air fuel controller]. The Scion tC runs pretty rich, which means there is a lot more fuel than completely necessary. This is done for safety reasons, as it is unlikely an engine will detonate on a rich mixture. However, leaning out the mixture [or adding more air] will yield better performance [decrease in gas mileage too].

 

Once I got an auto I knew I wouldn't be getting it for power or speed but merely daily driving. That's partially why I haven't done any mods. When I do make mods, though, it'll be all suspension and tires... trd shocks and springs, sway bar set, spacers, not sure about tires... but i'd rather burn through my stockies first... handling > speed in my book...

 

I at least want to smoke them ricers out there Where I live, a lot of integs/civics with fart cans.

As a matter of fact, my friend's friend wants to "race" me. There is this open drag course that I go to every saturday for a $10 race fee. I've never raced, yet.

He has a CRX with a Civic SI motor (I believe year 1996-1997) and he dyno'd at 150+ hp. lol.

Hmm, do you think I'll be able to beat him with only an Injen CAI and a Megan Catback? His car is definately lighter than mine..

Sorry for going off topic, just want an answer.. Thanks again.

 

nope, well, assuming he is a decent driver. That car is light, and is dynoing more than you.

 

Oh, and he's stick.

 

Ic. thanks.

 

About how much would I have to pay if I was to trade in my car for a manual ?

 

Depends on the condition of your car, how many miles are on it, and the year.

However, you lose about 20% the value of the car once you drive it off the lot, and about 1200 for every year owned.

Take how much you have left to pay on the car, and subtract what the car is worth, thats how much you will lose by trading the car in.

[assuming of course you get what the car is worth, dealerships will often offer less than what the car is worth so they can make money when they resell it]

 

you'll just get smoked, maybe a 5 seed would put up a fight somewhat

 

Well, its a 2006 BSP. Close to 8000 Miles. Has a dent on the driver side =X and a few scratches.

 

Like I said before, why worry what the ricers think? Build your car to your comfortable performance level. Honda's, "ricers" play a different ballgame. As if they have something to prove. Heck, when i bought the xB, I couldn't get away from the ricers. As if they FINALLY found a hot car they could beat. I say screw them and don't sink to their level. My wife has a tC(auto) so I am a bit familiar with it. We just lowered it and did a mild sound system. Yeah, We took a stab at each other once with my daily, a 93 Dodge Daytona V-6 5 speed. My advice to you comes from my build-up of that car. Here's why. This particular Daytona came with the 150(maybe)hp and 174ft/lb's of torque. I never really cared for the 6000 redline I could never reach for the car ran out of breathe at 4500 rpm's. I saw stock dyno sheet that proved the case. So I added a cat-back exhaust at 2.5 inches. This cat-back is almost a full exhaust cuz the cat is at the engine. The car got blatty( I expected that) and the work was done at a shop in Chula Vista on Broadway when I lived there. Redline FX I believe was the place. Of course this was 1997. I returned to Chicago with a wealth of knowledge and fabbed a CAI I could convert to a short ram. CAI is better for the car cuz it like to get hot, but man the short ram flies off the line. I pulled the A/C and added the underdrive pulley. I also did Mopar springs, Koni shocks and a rear sway bar. I surprisingly killed the wifes car from idle. Burned thru three gears and got two cars ahead. Now, this car is not fast on the highway, I may have only got 5 hp at most with a few extra ft/lb's. But the car revs clear to fuel cut so fast I don't expect it. I can now hit redline. But I did build a car so fun to drive with it's handling, I could autocross it if I wanted to and be good at it. The car has become more of a corner carver now. Not many cars can hang with me because I have built something that uses it's power wisely. So that's what I mean. I don't care if a Honda wants to race. I just put it in my terms. I'll see you at the twisties! catch me if you can! Oh yeah, I upgraded my front brakes with EBC rotors and pads and did a disc conversion on the back. The car is everything R/T minus the turbo engine. And of course I have nice rims and sticky Dunlop FM901' sized 235/45's. So make the car good for you and not good for beating Honda's. There's a lot of work in that and you don't have the funds for that now. Take time learning the car and it's potential and you will have beat most ricers out there. Later.

 

Also take into account many ricersare dumbass kids w/o class. Everyday i have a rice rocket civic trying to race me (auto) them a stick. And everytime i still win. Its all about knowing your, taking care of it and memorize its limits. Many civic owners that are young and who like to taunt are those wiht no experience and no respect for theiir cars. With my auto ive leanned how to easily manipulate the tranny to achive the power i want even though all i have is cai on it. track races of coarse we are gonna loose but that shouldnt be our main concern. it should be to have a car that reflects our personality and defines but doesnt make us. Its also a waste to trade in for a m/t because first of all we paid more, 2nd we lose around 5 grand, thrid they dont count any extras that are on the car. with the money you would have lossed you could have gone f/i or a sweet 14 s auto with a ton of performance parts and still have change in ur pockets and be debt free. EnderSavesTheDay and BlackOnBlacktc have seen what i can do with auto. The most important thing to make your car go fast is skill. W/o that any mods you do are pointless. e.g. (in an 87 maxima stick i have beaten an s2k, 97 civic si, 93 ford mustang, and all those were stick with more power, but the drivers were yound and inexperinced so i smoked them easily through all the gears). Spend money on driving lessons and it will be worth more than 20 extra hp.