I just got a Check Engine Light today when I turned on my car leaving work. The only engine work that i've done that could cause a CEL is my ebay intake w/ aem dryflow filter. I've done no exhaust work or anything like that, so its definitely the intake, i'm very sure of that.

Should I just take out the intake and replace it with the stock or is there something that I can do to get rid of the problem?

Note:
When I installed the intake, I disconnected the neg on the battery
The intake is 2.75"


**I'm looking for some constructive advice here, so to all of the ebay haters out there, if you're going to tell me to get rid of the ebay intake and spend lots of money for one, bite me and go to another thread. Its worth the money to me for an ebay intake, but not anything more. So thats not the advice i'm looking for.**

 

You filled up with Gas Recently? A loose gas Cap will throw a CEL as well... Also, did you reset your ECU after you installed that Intake?

 

Yea, I reset the ecu.

I did fill up with gas yesterday. I'll check the gas cap I suppose.

Any other advice? I'm pretty sure its the intake - I'm never lucky enough for it to be the gas cap. lol

 

check if the maf is dirty. then i guess you could re-reset the ecu.

 

ya, i was thinking about that, but wouldn't whatever caused the cel this time just cause it again shortly? that just seems to be a way of temporarily removing the cel, but not addressing the issue.

Am I wrong?

 

Its not definitely the intake. There are a million things on the car that can cause a CEL. The last thing changed is always a possibility, but it doesnt have to be that.

The first thing to do when a CEL comes on is to find out what code is set. If the problem isnt obvious after that, then you need to use a diagnostic tool and some troubleshooting to figure out what is going on.

 

yu cant do anything really without first reading the code. If your car is under warrantee the dealer will read it for free, otherwise head to a pepboys or advanced auto or w/e they usualy read codes for free or for like 30$ withut knowing what the code is you cant properly diag the problem. Could be an 02 heatercircut caused by getting the 02 wet, could be loose gas cap, could be maf could be anything

 

Alright, then i'll have to run it over to a car parts place to get the code read. I'll post back up with whatever it is. If they are still open, i'll go today, otherwise tomorrow.

Any other advice, let me know!

 

You, know, for about $10 bucks more than the 30 mentioned above you can just buy the code reader. For about $100 more you can get a laptop based diagnostic tool, which actually tells you whats going on. Just some ideas for you. If you are going to be modding the car, then it is a good thing to have. $30 to pull codes is ridiculous to pay. They simply plug in thier tool, press a button after they turn on the ignition and read the code, simple as that.

I have a laptop based diagnostic tool that I bought for about $130. There are a lot of options.

 

Go to autozone they do it for free.

 

Well I can't for the life of me find a place that is willing to do it. No place near me can do it! I've called everywhere!!

In the meantime, I reset the ecu and reseated the MAF sensor and 'checked' to see if it is clean. So the CEL is off for now, but we'll see what happens if it comes back on. I'm really sure its the intake, its too coincidental not to be that.

 

on a dirty maf the little metal wire inside it will look fuzzy.

incase you didnt know what your looking for.

oh and clean it with throttlebody cleaner, not brake clean. Brake cleaner will cause the rubber grommet to expand and it wont seat properly. Also you can dry it with compressed air but be extremely careful! You might just want to blow on it for a bit instead after spraying it all out.

Oh and i saw in your first post you have an aem dry filter so this doesnt effect you but its neat info anyway-people with k&n's or other oiled filters, if you over oil it, it will get on your maf and throw a cel.

 

Cool. Thanks for the info. I just blew on it gently to make sure there wasn't anything on it, but it looks perfect. I didn't use any cleaner of any kind, but its good to know that is a possibility.

Yea, thats actually the reason that I got the aem dryflow, I didn't want to risk getting oil on the MAF. Its a bit more expensive, but worth it to me to avoid the CEL - Oh well!

 

ScanGauge FTW. Can read and clear codes, and even purge the stored code cache-- so when you do finally have to get the car tested for emissions, it won't spit out a mile long list of error codes. I think anyone with an intake or header should invest in one.

 

make sure the MAF is tightly mounted to the pipe...
i swear up and down im NOT an ebay hater... but if the mount for the MAF isnt cut exactly and there is a gap of even the smallest dimension... it could throw a CEL...

 

Okay, i'll check it very closely and make sure its nice and tightly mounted on there without any air gaps.

 

[quote="Dr_Isotope"]ScanGauge FTW. Can read and clear codes, and even purge the stored code cache-- so when you do finally have to get the car tested for emissions, it won't spit out a mile long list of error codes. I think anyone with an intake or header should invest in one.[/quote

That made me think... I wonder if it will clear the stored rev limit and speed limiter codes? I know on some newer cars, even with the codes reset, it will store if the rev limiter has ever been hit. My father ran into this while working on a customers car recently. Apparently her son drives her lincoln as well... and drives it hard :D Of course, he isnt a dealer, so he didnt care, and it had nothing to do with the problem... but it did show up.

Scan gauge is a nice, easy way to read them as well and is useful for everyday monitoring.

 

It is useful. I agree. But at the same time it is an expensive piece. Its like $200 on ebay! If you are doing heavy modding, it may be worth it, but me, I just have an intake, I think its overkill if i'm not planning on using it for everyday monitoring

 

$200!!!! It isn't even that much straight from scan gauge! I got mine shipped in 3 days for $156 total, including shipping.

 

Again though, you can get a code reader (not a diagnostic tool, but it will pull codes) for about $40 at sears.

For me, the tools are worth it. Unless it is a warranty issue, then no one touches my cars but me. So even if I am not heavilly modding, I like to be able to fix em when they break.