crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

It seems cc changed their spring retainer to fully enclosed on the front than what they used to do. too bad they didnt do that to the back side aswell.

tcturbo07

Is a squeeky clutch common on the competition clutch?

ecko04

I got a new phone, the other died and couldn't pull the numbers out but I was gonna call. You suggested both the springs or TOB so you were right, if the TOB didn't go, the springs felt relatively tight but one seemed to want to maybe come out over time. I like the stiffer feel and how upgraded clutches hold power compared to stock, its much easier to break the tires free in 1st - 3rd even on stock motor but I'm content with the feather soft stock clutch, my shifts are much smoother now lol.

toeveryhour

iTrader: (3)

so glad i didn't go with cc. i actually didn't go with them because of pete's ordeal. lol

ecko04

The clutch probably isn't squeaking, if you're pushing the pedal all the way down and you hear a squeak it probably isn't the clutch but rather the infamous clutch pedal squeak. Now if you hear a squeal that's different.

Competition Clutch has obviously gone through a few iterations of this clutch, each supposedly better than the last, sadly each iteration is failure prone, if it isn't the springs are now partially enclosed instead of exposed so that may partially be s solution to the spring issue but clearly the TOB (throwout bearing) is still an issue.

I would be less worried about springs as I would about the bearing. It's not what you want in life so if you used the TOB that came with the clutch, be weary and replace early but some have used an OEM TOB and their CC is holding up fine *knocks on wood*.

aen

for the record. i got it from todd.

and it wasn't at the powdercoaters

BHWAHAHA. jk. i was like wtf i dot' remember showing htat picture

dsil06tc

iTrader: (2)

Well thanks for the advice on not buying a Comp Clutch. My stock clutch is done for right now and is slipping very bad. I just had my car re tuned and have 266 whp and 266 tq at 12 psi and it will not grab at all with the stock clutch. Also I have 93,000 Miles on the car. I was going to get a SPEC Stage 2+ clutch but now I keep here different reviews on those as well. ANY RECOMENDATIONS??? Also could these problems be resulted in the clutches not being broken in properly??? I need some good advice asap I need to get a clutch within the next week.

aen

ACT is good

dsil06tc

iTrader: (2)

The shop that is installing it for me recommended Spec clutches, he stated they never really had any problems with them, just recommend that the break in period is 500 miles. And to make sure that im not boosting or beating on the car during the break in period. I do not want to have issues like TCPete had with his comp clutch, thats why I would like to go with another brand. I do take the car to the drag strip ocassionally and it is a daily driver.

ecko04

Exedy Stage 2

dsil06tc

iTrader: (2)

Well beside Exedy Stage 2 clutch. I looked at the torque capacity and it shows only 320 wtq. I am right around 300 right now and plan on being over 320 so I want a clutch that can withstand the amount of tq the car is going to have. I was thinking of going with a Spec Stage 2+ clutch.

ecko04

Once again Exedy Stage 2, it'll be plenty enough, even with you "planning" to be over 320.

t_C

iTrader: (1)

I'm not coming on here to bash CC or any other clutch manufacturer, but I would like to point out that there may be another underlying issue. I would gladly hear out the opinion of some subject matter experts from Dezod and anyone else on that level.

Here's some photos of the ACT street clutch pulled from my car today! Don't get me wrong, I loved the feel and performance of the unit (kit TY4-HDMM which includes the 2000604 clutch disc), but I certainly have a bad feeling concerning shock loads and the ability of the steel stamping to withstand them in the tC.

Same failure mode as the 'cheap' CC clutches, and you can see evidence that EVERY flange had some level of stress fracture. The unit has seen ~40K miles of spirited driving with no track time whatsoever. The friction material looks almost new, well except for all the scoring caused by the flange that went for a wild ride.

Here's a caption for each of the attached photos:
(or view them HERE)

0101 - flange lodged between hub and friction disc, LH side of photo flange shows a stress crack (pressure plated side)

0102 - shows the flange I would consider next to fail (pressure plate side)

0103 - shows the flange that did fail, and the spring that was trying to escape, and damaged the flywheel/bolts (flywheel side)

0104 - shows scoring to the inside of the flywheel and witness marks on the bolts


I have emailed ACT tech, but wanted some additional opinions......so fire away.

TCpete

now thats a chuckle....

ive seen that before on an ACT clutch but the power was about 500 whp on drag radials on a daily driven car... every manf has its defects but where not here to discuss act which this is the first time i see it fail on a tc anywhere.... i dont think there really is much of an underlying thing... there plenty of cars that equal the same power and tq as ours and surpass it and they dont have problems.. i dont think the tc is some magic voodoo clutch killer... if not the OEM clutches would explode themselves and thats clearly not a problem for factory clutches...

based on simple findings and opinions from every on here and other scion related forums they've all had problems with comp clutch.. it seems to be more of a know trend of failure then any other brand clutch...

ive seen 1 act (not fail on the tc) and have only know of 1 other case where the clutch masters fx series has broken but this also was an isolated incident with and underpowered car...

defects are gona happen... but with CC it seems like defects are almost expected! their percentages dont look good at all in comparison to any of the other brands.

Carlanga

Hey, that came out of my baby. Very darn unfortunate, cuz the clutch felt very good. It lasted about 7k with no significant problems other than some jerk when releasing the clutch pedal and in gear, as if it was grabing, slipping, grabbing and so on. That CC3 barely got any track time and it got babied. At first I though that I had a problem with the CC 12lb flywheel being warped or something, because the way it felt. But I had the flywheel resurfaced before the install just in case.

Oh well, I have an ACT street with the heavy duty pressure plate now. Feels good, maybe a stiffer pedal feel than the CC3, but I don't think the former used to hold the horses as well as the ACT (slippage). Hope that pic above from the ACT clutch is just a fluke, cuz I'm gonna be....

dsil06tc

iTrader: (2)

I took your recommendation and got the Exedy Stage 2 Clutch. I got it installed and noticed a big difference over the stock. It has a really stiff pedal feel. I have not been ripping the car around since they recommend the break in period of 750 miles according to their instructions. You think it's best to go by what they say and not rip on the car for 750 miles. I was told by the shop you installed it to make sure I do not boost and do just drive it normally for the amount of time recommended. But anyways I am looking forward to testing it out at the track, hopefully my times will be a great increase over the stock. Also if you have the same set up do you notice a chatter of the clutch starting off from first, or is it just me not used to the clutch yet?

ecko04

Excellent! Breaking it in essentially means don't beat on it. I wouldn't put it through the finger until you've adjusted to the stiffer pedal and driven the recommended distance. The pedal will get a little softer as it settles but it won't have anywhere near the stock feel. You'll be adjusted to it and it'll seem normal to you...at least until you drive another car. You're going to have some clutch chatter, it happens with upgraded clutches, perfectly normal.

dsil06tc

iTrader: (2)

Well that's good to know. Thanks for the advice on this clutch, I keep hearing bad things about other brands, I just did not want to have to drop $1000 on a clutch with install and have it go out within a year. I never really drove a car with a high performance clutch so I am getting used to it now. I was money with the stock clutch but obviously this is a huge difference. Im pumped to take it to the track soon as see how well my times have improved.

TheFantasticG

Well, in keeping with Ecko's attempt to keep information centralized...

I have over 16,000 miles on my Competition Clutch Stage 3. It's seen quite a few runs at the track (1/4 and 1/8 mile tracks) and some abuse on the streets. Other wise, babied.

About three weeks ago I couldn't shift in any gear. I thought TOB or disc. You might be interested to know that I have had this issue since I got the tC with 8 miles on the ODO. Randomly, I will be unable to shift into gear. I have to engage and disengage the clutch a few times to get back into gear. Three weeks ago, the same thing happened, but to a greater extent. So much so that I was about a mile from my house, and when I got there, I put it in the garage it there it sat until I got back. Yesterday Crush came over to help with boost leak down (which we found plenty leaks) and I told him about my car's shifting problem and what has happened in the past. I am lead to believe that there's a problem with my transmission, not my clutch. Crush may believe the same. I would think that if the clutch did fail, it wouldn't magically repair itself and work as it did before the incident three weeks ago.

dsil06tc

iTrader: (2)

It must be the transmission than, if your saying you have had that problem since you first bought the car. Luckily I have not had any issues with mine, I got the car with 1 mile on the odometer and have been using the original clutch until now. I have 93000 miles on the car and beat the hell out of the stock clutch. If you had the issue since day 1 did you ever take it to Toyota to see if they can fix the issue under warranty?