So I finally got my wonder running! Specs below:

DEZOD SHORT BLOCK NON SLEEVED

-Wiseco Forged Pistions 9.0:1cr
-Molnar Technologies Connecting rods
-ACL Race Main, Rod and Thrust Bearings
-ARP Main studs** (included in price, while competitors list as recommended)
-Bored and Honed
-Line Bored and Honed
-Deck Surfaced
-Rotating Assembly Precision Balanced
-Jet Washed
-Rods Resized for Proper Pin Clearance
-Blueprinted

Balance shaft is removed.
9.5 LB flywheel.

Port + Polished head
BC stage 2 cams
Spring and Retainer kit to go with it.

The head and block were both done by Dezod (which I DO trust their work)

Sometime during shipping (maybe) or after one of the Cams snapped. Something that was not noticed for a while (was never used though thank the lord). I had the car in a shop to do the LSD and install the block. They noticed the cam snapped and got some new ones in. To be safe he checked all teh clearances again, reverting most of them back to stock(ish) claiming that the engine wouldn't start with the other settings.

Now I am throwing a P301.

I am NOT running any management currently.

First: Will the engine be fine for the break in period without management with what I have or do I need to get time on the dyno yesterday?

Second: Does anybody out there have the same setup as me that can maybe send me the sizes you used for the buckets?

Third: What about Plug gaps?

I thank any and all that reply, I am open to suggestions and even flaming for not having management runnin yet




Rougenite has been kind enough to drive over and lend me his APRx1. Anybody out there use one of these? He says I'm probably running REALLY lean. He doesn't have the confidence to true for me (understandable) and the only map he has is for a turbo app with 900cc injectors.


Can the stock injectors handle the flow needed with the setup I have? Is it possible I get a basemap from somebody around that will make the car safe for the time I have to wait for dyno?

EDIT 2: Gaps were checked, all set to stock. CEL P300 popped, Random misfire.

EDIT 3:
OK, so been a little while since I posted. Got a map from Dezod to try and smooth everything out. Cars been in the garage, break in isnt even finished yet, life got in the way of the fun >_>.

Plug it in,(disconnected battery, installed APRX1, plugged battery back in) ran the car for about 5 minutes (idle only)

CEL flashed, didnt stay solid. The car didnt have a 'rough' idle, no sounds of knock (that I could hear). As I let it run I noticed the idle was 'surging' heavily....looking at 500-1500 rpms.

Compression test shows 200-240 across all cylinders, no drop in pressure.

Coil Packs were changed with some known good ones, no dice.

Going off the stock ECU, the car idles a little rough (but that can be artibuted to it being a build motor with poly mounts etc). If I am moving and push the clutch in the Idle bounces between 500-1200 or so, and its constant. once i come to a complete stop, the idle evens out. Im not even remotely sure what would cause that problem.

Getting a tuner out here in Hawaii is something else....Two dynos that function, one shop doesnt have a tuner anymore, second shop does domestics (damn rear wheel drive). Anymore insight that can be given would be much appreciated. If I need to provide you with anything please let me know.

EDIT 4: Rouge told me that the numbers i was getting for compression was wrong. There was no way it was that High as N/A with the build I have. Went and bought a test kit myself, vice renting one. Everything came out between 160-180.

Checked oil, so far so good, not even dirty really, going to do the change today, fill the tank up with gas and put some injector cleaner in it.

Went through some of my old emails to get the Map I got from Paul loaded up again, and see if i can figure out how to log, Rougenite says he knows somebody that owes him a favor on here that might help,

If I am using an aftermarket ECU, will the ECU try to 'learn', or will i be able to plug it in and say pretty much that this is how it will run no matter what?

 

I would not run without Engine Management.

 

First: Will the engine be fine for the break in period without management with what I have or do I need to get time on the dyno yesterday?

The engine should run fine with stock ecu and stock injectors for break in.

Second: Does anybody out there have the same setup as me that can maybe send me the sizes you used for the buckets?

We use BC cams all day long. You will have to check the valve lash see what the clearance is and then see what the bucket is and do the math to find the right valve lash. FYI every engine will be different because of the machine work done to it. Also every cam is a little different too.

Third: What about Plug gaps?

The plug gap will depend on your fuel that you use. The boost level you run. Most of the stuff we did here ran a gap of .028" to .032" Stock gap is 1.1 mm or .043". FYI your tuner should help you out with this.

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Thank you for the response .

Right now I am using a 93 Octane. I cleared the code, reset the ecu and ran it for 10 minutes, code did not pop up again. Talked to the shop said he didn't gap the plugs at all just put them in. I am assuming that because he got them for a stock motor they come with the factory gap, i will check it after the engine cools.

 

So your stock with the low compression motor awaiting for a turbo kit to be installed? I beliece you should be fine during the break in period just make sure you use premium gas.

 

Yeah pretty much, doing the break in without the kit, will install that once i get comfortable with it. the LSD makes a HUGE difference in the way it handles. That and the DG sway I got ahold of....makes the car feel like it has oversteer, makes for a lot of fun .

 

Bump with new information!

 

EDIT 4: Updates!

 

Your stock Injectors should be able to handle your setup just fine since you are not running any boost.

You would have a rougher idle from removing the balance shaft I would think.

What engine management are your running currently? Your aftermarket ecu will not "learn", it needs to be tuned. I highly suggest you don't use the stock ecu and get a aftermarket ecu with a good tune.

Your compression is normal.

When did you last tune it, My guess is your running lean, that's why your getting the p300. How does the car react under WOT? I doubt it runs good at all. If you only have 2 dyno's in hawaii and they both dont work for you then you might be out of luck. I mean, even if someone did happen to have the exact same setup as you it wouldnt matter because of the variations in weather conditions and height above sea level ect.
Bottom line is you need a tune.