Post up pics of your *NITROUS*
I actually don't use any of that stuff but I will likely invest in some eventually.
The best thing to use, if only I can figure out if it would work, is a window switch with WOT. With it the nitrous would still only spray at WOT but only within a certain RPM range. I don't know if that even exists in that combination. You will never inadvertently spray near the red line, etc. but for now the WOT alone works pretty well. Another thing is try not to spray and immediately break the car out of gear, i.e. putting it in neutral. If you do so it is likely that all the nitrous would not get out of the system in time and may throw a CEL, it should immediately go away when you put the car back in gear though.
I reside in the south so I don't use a bottle warmer nor a remote bottle opener, etc. Due to my sub box I decided to mount the bottle behind the driver’s seat instead of disassemble my box just to try to mount it in front of the sub. The bottle is still slightly angled as it should be and since i'm 6+ feet tall the driver’s seat presses right up against the bottle holding it in place. That will do until I get a piece of wood and carpet it, mount the bottle to the wood and velcro it to the car's carpet.
It is so tempting not to keep it on all the time. By the time you realize someone in an Si is messing with you, flip the switch, purge the line and take off....well hell you'll still beat it but you had to wait a few seconds to do so lol.
It’s fun to have 250+hp only when you want it and 160 any other time.
Like weelo said it’s all about being smart and it doesn't take a rocket scientist. Take your time and do the install right. Don't kink any braided lines and make sure your wiring is right. Don't run higher than 75 or 80 shot unless you plan on upgrading your injectors as well.
I will likely, over the course of some time, get new cams, I was still told to go with N/A cams, since the nitrous is not running all the time. I'll likely get a tune and probably get the AEM Fuel / Ignition Controller. That's probably all overkill with bolt ons and a small shot of nitrous but you'll be sure to keep running with it all.
I'll probably get a stage 2 clutch as well eventually.
Anyway too much talking....not enough pics.
I'll take more pics tomorrow.
The best thing to use, if only I can figure out if it would work, is a window switch with WOT. With it the nitrous would still only spray at WOT but only within a certain RPM range. I don't know if that even exists in that combination. You will never inadvertently spray near the red line, etc. but for now the WOT alone works pretty well. Another thing is try not to spray and immediately break the car out of gear, i.e. putting it in neutral. If you do so it is likely that all the nitrous would not get out of the system in time and may throw a CEL, it should immediately go away when you put the car back in gear though.
I reside in the south so I don't use a bottle warmer nor a remote bottle opener, etc. Due to my sub box I decided to mount the bottle behind the driver’s seat instead of disassemble my box just to try to mount it in front of the sub. The bottle is still slightly angled as it should be and since i'm 6+ feet tall the driver’s seat presses right up against the bottle holding it in place. That will do until I get a piece of wood and carpet it, mount the bottle to the wood and velcro it to the car's carpet.
It is so tempting not to keep it on all the time. By the time you realize someone in an Si is messing with you, flip the switch, purge the line and take off....well hell you'll still beat it but you had to wait a few seconds to do so lol.
It’s fun to have 250+hp only when you want it and 160 any other time.
Like weelo said it’s all about being smart and it doesn't take a rocket scientist. Take your time and do the install right. Don't kink any braided lines and make sure your wiring is right. Don't run higher than 75 or 80 shot unless you plan on upgrading your injectors as well.
I will likely, over the course of some time, get new cams, I was still told to go with N/A cams, since the nitrous is not running all the time. I'll likely get a tune and probably get the AEM Fuel / Ignition Controller. That's probably all overkill with bolt ons and a small shot of nitrous but you'll be sure to keep running with it all.
I'll probably get a stage 2 clutch as well eventually.
Anyway too much talking....not enough pics.
I'll take more pics tomorrow.
My performance mod list includes:
Injen CAI
Strup Headers
Invidia S-pipe
Magnaflow catback
Iridium 1 Step Colder Plugs
Ny-trex Triple Threat Wet Kit Adjustable from 35 to 175 shot (Currently running 75 shot)
I've never had my car dyno'd.
A shot does not mean you net that shot amount at the wheels. It usually means more than the shot you are spraying. Jet gains are approximations and typically air on the conservative side.
No need to run any type of management for 75 and under.
I never go to the track, everything I have is just for my pleasure and ____ing of the guy that thinks he can run laps around a tC.
Everything else is simply aesthetic.
Injen CAI
Strup Headers
Invidia S-pipe
Magnaflow catback
Iridium 1 Step Colder Plugs
Ny-trex Triple Threat Wet Kit Adjustable from 35 to 175 shot (Currently running 75 shot)
I've never had my car dyno'd.
A shot does not mean you net that shot amount at the wheels. It usually means more than the shot you are spraying. Jet gains are approximations and typically air on the conservative side.
No need to run any type of management for 75 and under.
I never go to the track, everything I have is just for my pleasure and ____ing of the guy that thinks he can run laps around a tC.
Everything else is simply aesthetic.
http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...trous/?start=0
thats all my stuff,
NOS sniper wet kit, bottle fitted with highflow valve
dynotune pressure regulated heater
dynotune fully electronic TPS/window switch
Nytrex purge
AEM UEGO
AEM F/ic
boomslang harness
dynotune 60-100whp jets
hitting the dyno april 4th to do an NA and 60 shot run, and as soon as I get my clutch in ill be doing my 100 shot
thats all my stuff,
NOS sniper wet kit, bottle fitted with highflow valve
dynotune pressure regulated heater
dynotune fully electronic TPS/window switch
Nytrex purge
AEM UEGO
AEM F/ic
boomslang harness
dynotune 60-100whp jets
hitting the dyno april 4th to do an NA and 60 shot run, and as soon as I get my clutch in ill be doing my 100 shot
I personally wouldn't do the 100 shot without changing the injectors to a larger size. The stock motor seems very capable of handing the 100 shot, it seems to handle the 75 shot too well. I can imagine the yawn it would do with 55 shot almost laughing like is that all.
What I would like to do is get 200whp N/A before I even engage the nitrous.
I want to go ahead and get a stage 2 clutch and 9lb fly wheel, nst pulley kit, stage 2 na cams to raise the redline and that aem f/ic.
I don't know if I want to change pistons and get the WR manifold.
What I would like to do is get 200whp N/A before I even engage the nitrous.
I want to go ahead and get a stage 2 clutch and 9lb fly wheel, nst pulley kit, stage 2 na cams to raise the redline and that aem f/ic.
I don't know if I want to change pistons and get the WR manifold.
well the injectors on the 100 weren't very far in their duty cycle at all, im more worried about my fuel pump. last time I dynoed NA I was at 175 before my exhaust was put on so 180ish to the wheels is probably where I am.
I have a CM fx400 in the mail, and I realy want to go to 11:1 compression pistons sometime soon possibly stage 2 cams and when I get money the weapon r intake manifold with a direct port nitrous system 25hp shot per runner
I have a CM fx400 in the mail, and I realy want to go to 11:1 compression pistons sometime soon possibly stage 2 cams and when I get money the weapon r intake manifold with a direct port nitrous system 25hp shot per runner
200 n/a is tough to do, when i first got on this site i remember that being a big topic and tcpete did a full motor build with high comp pistons and was around 186 i believe, granted they have cams and the new intake out, but it will still be tough to do. also depends on the dyno used, i have seen the same car pull two totally different set of numbers from two different dynos, when i dyno mine im mainly certain about the curve and rich/lean numbers and so what, the hp numbers arent my main concern.
I figured it would be and i'm not doing an entire engine rebuild so that may not be an option for me but i'm going to get as close as possible before the spray. My car is warrantied until 125,000 so when I do things to it I want to be able to go back to stock in case anything happens.
I want to do a lot but i'm unsure about which order to do it.
I want to do a lot but i'm unsure about which order to do it.
I'm pulling my rear seat delete and bracket out soon if anyone is interested. I will have an offical post soon but when I post it a lot of guys will think it is only a seat delete and not know it has to be used with a nitrous kit. There are pics on page one so just pm me for details. Great way to lose weight and move the bottle closer
^ LMAO!
There is a rubber grommet under the drivers side floor, right under the styrofoam crap underneath the carpet.
I removed the drivers' seat and fuel latch to lift the carpet enough to run my nitrous line under it and through the same hole the airbag harness for the seat comes through. I zip tied the remainder portion of the nitrous line under the seat, put the fuel latch back on and bolted the seat back in and the bottle sits right behind me on the floor. I can easily reach the bottle to open it up but I never need to since it stays open
It looks amazing!!
I really didn't want to take apart my sub box to run it all the way back there so I thought of this and it worked awesome. It probably shaved an hour off my install time. I had the hydraulic jack out to run the nitrous line cleanly underneath the car and zip tie it. I'll have to take pics one day.
There is a rubber grommet under the drivers side floor, right under the styrofoam crap underneath the carpet.
I removed the drivers' seat and fuel latch to lift the carpet enough to run my nitrous line under it and through the same hole the airbag harness for the seat comes through. I zip tied the remainder portion of the nitrous line under the seat, put the fuel latch back on and bolted the seat back in and the bottle sits right behind me on the floor. I can easily reach the bottle to open it up but I never need to since it stays open
It looks amazing!!
I really didn't want to take apart my sub box to run it all the way back there so I thought of this and it worked awesome. It probably shaved an hour off my install time. I had the hydraulic jack out to run the nitrous line cleanly underneath the car and zip tie it. I'll have to take pics one day.
I took my rear seat out. Right now I have a rear seat delete made by the guys at ptuning. So I have no rear seat in right now.
And nitrous is activated by a switch after you arm it with another one. The switch can be setup to run in a certain rpm range via a window switch. Mine is just tapped into my throttle postion sensor so when I'm at WOT I'm spraying. You can even run an external switch that can be operated by your hand or foot like the pics above show
And nitrous is activated by a switch after you arm it with another one. The switch can be setup to run in a certain rpm range via a window switch. Mine is just tapped into my throttle postion sensor so when I'm at WOT I'm spraying. You can even run an external switch that can be operated by your hand or foot like the pics above show




















