Notices
Scion tC 1G Drivetrain & Power Engine and transmission discussions...

REALLY Tight Bolts!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 12:20 AM
  #1  
TCguy8's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 25
From: Gulfport, MS
Default REALLY Tight Bolts!

I was wondering if anyone knows any good tips and tricks to unscrew REALLY tight bolts on my TC.
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 12:28 AM
  #2  
reagulator's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 946
From: Garden Grove, CA
Default

breaker bar
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 12:29 AM
  #3  
Munch's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,426
Default

Originally Posted by reagulator
breaker bar
Or impact gun
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 12:30 AM
  #4  
nycazn79's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 382
From: NYC
Default

Goto the gym more....j/k. Try to get as much leverage as possible with a breaker bar or slide a long pipe over the handle. If it's rusted, WD-40.
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 12:48 AM
  #5  
jolsen30041's Avatar
Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 15
Default bolts

If they are not lug nuts....... try a little heat from a propane torch....
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 03:01 AM
  #6  
reagulator's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 946
From: Garden Grove, CA
Default

Originally Posted by nycazn79
Goto the gym more....j/k. Try to get as much leverage as possible with a breaker bar or slide a long pipe over the handle. If it's rusted, WD-40.
lets just hope this isnt the case because a new car like the tC shouldnt be rusting solid.
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 02:47 PM
  #7  
-Keith-'s Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Scikotics
SL Member
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,811
From: Nor-Cal Scikotics
Default Re: REALLY Tight Bolts!

Originally Posted by TCguy8
I was wondering if anyone knows any good tips and tricks to unscrew REALLY tight bolts on my TC.
If its for the rear suspension and the front just get a breaker bar and take another bar add on to it....
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 03:07 PM
  #8  
TCguy8's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 25
From: Gulfport, MS
Default

Its actually for the sheild on the stock headers. I don't know If I have cheap tools or I am doing something wrong, two of them on the bottom part just won't come loose!
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 03:29 PM
  #9  
SCI_TC_GUY's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,435
From: Benton, IL
Default

industrial strength PB Blaster!!!!!!! i believe you could shove a softball through a keyhole with this stuff!!!!
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 03:34 PM
  #10  
skinny's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 151
From: Columbus, Mississippi
Default

just use some wd 40, it always helps to loosen up things
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 03:44 PM
  #11  
ty6's Avatar
ty6
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 134
Default

Originally Posted by skinny
just use some wd 40, it always helps to loosen up things
Liquid Wrench is also good for loosening tight bolts.
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 04:41 PM
  #12  
TCguy8's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 25
From: Gulfport, MS
Default

Thanks for the advice!!! I know that sound like a really stupid question though!
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 05:22 PM
  #13  
Giravani's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 289
From: Napa, CA
Default

Originally Posted by TCguy8
Thanks for the advice!!! I know that sound like a really stupid question though!
Make sure you hold on to that heat shield in case you ever need to put your stock manifold back on. I didn't have a socket extender for the first O2 sensor and had to cut it off to get to it! I felt pretty stupid after that and called the dealer for a replacement, and they quoted me at $85 for a freaking UGLY ___ piece of aluminum. So lame...
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 06:24 PM
  #14  
falcon9094's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member

SL Member
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 324
From: Team Dreunk
Default

any opinoins on getting the bolt off near the alternator and the o2 sensors
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 06:31 PM
  #15  
English's Avatar
Senior Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 703
From: Atl
Default

Originally Posted by Giravani
Originally Posted by TCguy8
Thanks for the advice!!! I know that sound like a really stupid question though!
Make sure you hold on to that heat shield in case you ever need to put your stock manifold back on. I didn't have a socket extender for the first O2 sensor and had to cut it off to get to it! I felt pretty stupid after that and called the dealer for a replacement, and they quoted me at $85 for a freaking UGLY ___ piece of aluminum. So lame...
shouldn't you take the O2 sensor off after you take the manifold out? Anyways just use wd40 if you have some trouble, I only used that for the O2 sensors though!
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 06:53 PM
  #16  
mikochu's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
Premium Member
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,525
From: Orlando, Florida
Default

Originally Posted by nycazn79
Goto the gym more....j/k. Try to get as much leverage as possible with a breaker bar or slide a long pipe over the handle. If it's rusted, WD-40.
When I was installing my springs, the 19mm bolts in the front weren't budging with my regular socket wrench. I was literally lifting the car off the ground/jackstands. I had to use a friend's breaker bar in order to get the leverage to loosen them up.
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 07:36 PM
  #17  
sheep's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Scikotics
SL Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,226
From: Federal Way, WA
Default

Breaker bar and WD-40 will always do the trick.......
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 07:43 PM
  #18  
dgHotLava's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member

SL Member
Team ScioNRG
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 5,274
From: Fortress of ScioNRG
Default

so what you guys are saying is, a breaker bar?? is this correct? or am i hearing things...
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 08:04 PM
  #19  
Giravani's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 289
From: Napa, CA
Default

Originally Posted by English
Originally Posted by Giravani
Originally Posted by TCguy8
Thanks for the advice!!! I know that sound like a really stupid question though!
Make sure you hold on to that heat shield in case you ever need to put your stock manifold back on. I didn't have a socket extender for the first O2 sensor and had to cut it off to get to it! I felt pretty stupid after that and called the dealer for a replacement, and they quoted me at $85 for a freaking UGLY ___ piece of aluminum. So lame...
shouldn't you take the O2 sensor off after you take the manifold out? Anyways just use wd40 if you have some trouble, I only used that for the O2 sensors though!
Check my post again, I didn't have the socket extender to take the O2 sensor out of the manifold. Without taking it off, the heat shield would not come off because it was hitting the bottom of the O2 sensor's reader body. So to even get to the stock manifold bolts, I had to do something with the heat shield which unfortunately meant cutting it off with aviary snips and a lot of prying.
Old Apr 7, 2005 | 08:26 PM
  #20  
falcon9094's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member

SL Member
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 324
From: Team Dreunk
Default

to take the heat sheild off with the o2 sensor still in the header all you do is un plug it and feed the wire through the hole



All times are GMT. The time now is 03:01 PM.