amdforever

Can you point out that lock nut and stuff in this pic? https://www.scionlife.com/tech/parts...tc05_1_J04.gif

draxcaliber

i think it was 33321g looking at that diagram.

the one at the lower right end, 4 columns from the left.

Mr_Meaty

So did toyota put the stock stuff back in or did they put your LSD, lightened flywheel and comp clutch back in? how much did it run? And what is P-Tuning doing about it?

Resu

+1 for the question. Hopefully you're not hurting to much from the loss of cash man.

draxcaliber

well, bascasically toyota dealership charged me the price of a tranny overhaul plus like 280 in parts for a grand total of like...$1980...pretty ridiculous

p-tuning got a copy of the work order that had to be done, as well as digital photos of the parts they mangled up and such. they are currently consulting with a lawyer to see what damages they are liable for, they sent me a questionaire or whatever that i have to answer to give them my side of the story.

since it was on my credit card, i have called my credit card and disputed the cost since i shouldn't pay $1300 to p-tuning to pay my dealership $1980 to my dealership to fix it.

so i'm pretty much in the hole right now which sucks because after a whole summer of modifying my car, i'm broke and can't go on until this is resolved...oh and to add insult to injury, i raked up a nearly $200 dollar cell phone bill calling and talking to p-tuning and my dealership nearly every day for two weeks. maybe i should add that to my list of unneccessary expenses.

Resu

yup. I mean i would add it. Why not. I really do believe in P-tuning. I don't think there is anyway they're going to become the unmentionables (or at least that's what ZPI is here).

That is a blower and definitely one of the heartaches of modding. It just sucks that it didn't go right the first time, really. I hope this doesn't discourage you from future modding or cause a loss of the love.

draxcaliber

well, the problem is that i planned on boosting my tc after this, and p-tuning was one of the best places to take my tc for installment and tuning and now i'm worried that they will forever hate and resent me and not want to work on my tc ever again...

Mr_Meaty

No offense, but if I had even the slightest suspision that they but that mangled bolt back on my car and knew about it, I would NOT have them boosting my car!

draxcaliber

yeah, but what really sucks is that if you ask around the area, there are literally dozens of happy scion owners who have had p-tuning do their installation and tuning with stellar glowing results that they are happy to share about.

i am literally the only person i know with a bad story about p-tuning working on their car. lucky me...

Mr_Meaty

I know...in fact, this is the FIRST time I have ever heard anything bad about them.
But have they ever done an LSD install before? Mabye they are better with motors then with trannies?
But a mangled bolt is a mangled bolt, and it should not be put back on.
Hope you find out what really happened, and hope everything works out so you can boost.

draxcaliber

nope, part of why i brought it to them is that they have installed several LSD's on tc's before too. i did my homework. that is why it sucks so much that this happened to me.

kanundrum

Hey Guys I just got a CC clutch and 9lb flywheel installed as well as LSD and a new master and slave cylinder for my clutch and when I let go of the gas or go into neutral/ press clutch in i dont get any noises but when im just driving and not touching any pedals I get some minimal noises. I wanna say its this so called chatter everyone is talking about but not sure. What do you guys think ? Will it go away and is it something i should be concerned about.



Didnt want jack his topic but hahaha he doesnt mind

CSUnited14

drax any updates man???

draxcaliber

alright, so i've made my major update for those who are interested. i started a separate thread because i've turned it into a buyer/seller experience.

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...181885#3181885

Jan06xB

Wow - took me a while to remember that a LSD was but the shifting grinding in reverse is the same on all cars with MT - reverse has no syncro to match speed so when you press in the clutch, the clutch disk is spinning a little and turning the input shaft to the transmission and the gears on that shaft. Usually the transmission lube will cause a little drag and slow the clutch disk down and stop it completely before you get reverse engauged if not then it grinds a little and goes into gear. If it happens to stop spinning with the peak of the teeth of both meshing gears aligned it will not go into reverse and you have to let the clutch out and in again to spin it a little so they can go into gear. IF your clutch is not fully disengauged (draggin a little) it will grind like a mother and you can sometimes pop it in another gear that has syncros to stop the clutch disk from spinning and then quickly slip it back into reverse before the clutch dragging can spin the clutch disk up to speed as you pass through neutral into reverse. You can sometimes pump up the clutch just like the brake if you have some air in the hydralic system but if it is dragging bad or catching too close to the floor then you have a problem that needs to be fixed.

Now the only way to damage the syncro in ANY gear it to force it into that gear with the clutch dragging badly or by NOT using the clutch at all. Syncro damage can also occur when you use the wrong gear lube since it provides protection from wear and also has to provide some limited friction for the syncros to grab a little so it can slow or speed up the clutch disk to match the speed of the gear you are trying to enter when you shift. Generally it takes a while for the lube to cause failure as some have found with their tC when using Redline MT-90 after about 10k-15k miles they have serious grinding issues in 4th and 5th gears. Sound familar?

As to the lock nut lock bolt being replaced after one use - I have a BMW motorcycle and it is recommended that the flywheel bolts be replaced whenever they have been removed. Using a lock nut over again if it is a crown nut or nylock is probably not critical but just a good practice. Cotter pins usually should be replaced and safety wire is not a good substitute if the nut has any kind of unscrewing loads on it. Really depends upon how it is used and I have reused plenty of carter pins on wheel bearings with crown nuts on drum brake cars over the years.

It sounds like someone really screwed up and you may have waited a little too long to have it checked which shouldn't be your fault but someone or everyone is going to have to compromise on the repair cost. The dealer not warning users of improper lubricants is also a problem but what do you expect from them anyway - they use regular oil in engines that come from the factory with high quality synthetic.

In any event you got screwed . . . you can't get unscrewed . . . maybe you can get a break on future work . . . I wish you luck in any event.