trans cooler for auto question
If you're worried about down time, buy a spare used transmission. It's getting rebuilt anyway. http://www.car-part.com has them starting at $400. Build the spare and then you're only down for the install time.
I've read a lot of mixed opinions on the torque damper but from what I can conlude is it really doesn't make much (if any) difference..you're best bet in this case would be to get better motor mounts..it'll perform the job much better.
If you do decide to go with a torque damper though then go with either Ingalls "stiffy" or the DME damper. I've heard of several of the weapon r dampers breaking.
If you do decide to go with a torque damper though then go with either Ingalls "stiffy" or the DME damper. I've heard of several of the weapon r dampers breaking.
Torque converter upgrade would be useless. Nitrous isn't used until WOT, after the trans is already in a stall condition (rotating at > 90% engine RPM). It's really only good to raise the launch rev. point in 1st, especially useful if you're trying to spool a turbo.
can u explain the above comment a little more please? the trans is in a stall position at UNDER 90% engine rpm? doesnt the torque converter help minimize some of the power lost to the wheels of an automatic trans?
So... I did the original question get an answer? I'm also kinda wondering if adding an ATF cooler would show any improvement in performance on an essentially stock TC, but from what I've read, it looks like the conversation just skipped over to valve body upgrades.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...-converter.htm
Sorry, I had it a bit backwards. Stall is under 90% engine RPM. Main point is still the same though, higher-stall converter will help off the line, but since you don't use nitrous until the upper RPM band at wide open throttle, comnverter will already be spinning over 90% engine RPM, running in a fluid coupled mode and won't benifit the nitrous injection much at that point.
ATF cooler is universal goodness, I'd recommend it for everything including stock, daily-driver application. You probably won't see a faster time with it but it will help the trans take more abuse. Valve body upgrade would be #2, costs more, has more vehicle downtime but will give smoother, quicker shifts.
cool, I kinda thought a tranny cooler might be a wise investment anyway, since running at the track builds a lot of heat in the tranny very quickly(among other stresses). I dunno if auto TCs use a flywheel or not. My auto Lancer didn't, but I know some auto's do.
All autos use what's called a flexplate..it's similar to a flywheel but it isn't the same thing. I've never personally heard of someone using a lightweight flexplate..and I can't honestly say i've ever heard of that even being offered for a auto. If I remember right a flexplate doesn't serve entirely the same purpose as a flywheel..has similar functions but it isn't the same.
The flexplate does nothing for rotating mass. It's mainly about the starter. Hince my truck had a 55lb flywheel but my dads auto (autos have torque converter and pump combos) has a 13lb flexplate.
EDIT: and if you are pretty decent soldering and have a steady hand you could always braze your converter yourself. Just bend the fins and solder the ends shut so the fluid only goes through the channels and the straight fins are out of the way causing less fluid drag. Also bending the fins in a general direction and sealing the pump side wall gives you even flow and drag and will help alot with higher stall applications.
Cooler (transmission life) > Valve Body > Clutch packs > Converter
It does not matter if you have a high stall if you slip when shifting and can't hold a gear... And none of that matters if your tranny overheats and goes kaput.
EDIT: and if you are pretty decent soldering and have a steady hand you could always braze your converter yourself. Just bend the fins and solder the ends shut so the fluid only goes through the channels and the straight fins are out of the way causing less fluid drag. Also bending the fins in a general direction and sealing the pump side wall gives you even flow and drag and will help alot with higher stall applications.
Cooler (transmission life) > Valve Body > Clutch packs > Converter
It does not matter if you have a high stall if you slip when shifting and can't hold a gear... And none of that matters if your tranny overheats and goes kaput.
Last edited by Hix; Aug 18, 2009 at 07:12 PM.
Yes that is what seems, imo, to be the best route for an auto. You have to up the durability without question so everyone can agree the cooler is the first thing. Second I see is getting your trans to hold the power and be able to shift. A converter will without a doubt put more power to the ground by having less power loss and will give you better 'off the line' starts... But what good is that if you can't change gears or slip randomly?
Lvl10 offers a good kit to change the clutches.
http://www.levelten.com/Level_10_PTS...ja110-5000.htm
Lvl10 offers a good kit to change the clutches.
http://www.levelten.com/Level_10_PTS...ja110-5000.htm
Last edited by Hix; Aug 18, 2009 at 08:02 PM.
hmm 600 seems like a lot the occasional slip... 600 for valve body which helps it shift faster and harder and the 150 or so for the trans cooler seem like a much more worth while investment





