mattssi

I wasn't able to find them doing a search. I just came up w/ the Weapon R Damper. Although this supposedly works, I'd like to fix wheel hop the "right" way

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

AntwonePeterson

I don't think there are any motor mounts out for the tC. The engine damper is expensive, but I think it's the only thing out that prevents wheel hop right now.

mahalzkita28

I have the WR engine damper and it does work. a cheaper solution to the wheel hop would be DOC I's engine damper if he ever decides to produce them.

Motorsport_TC

I emailed energy suspension to see if they were making Urethane Mounts. I'll post when they get back to me

Limey

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...709&highlight=

This is Doc's suolution, and some interesting feedback ;-)

BrEaK_AwaY

i think your crazy to pay MMW cost for a gas strut and bent metal.... refer to angry_jonnie's post...

hahaitzskippy

wow tat is ghetto

here's solution to wheel hop.

i have yoko ES100 tires, i've put 20k miles on them. ZERO/NO wheel hop when i tryn to peel out or watever. (use tires with no grip)

or learn to take off better so you dont have tire spin or wheel hop.


why is wheel hop so important to people? its not as if you race everyday or something... or do ya ahaha

AntwonePeterson

I don't think its only wheel hop. The engine damper also allows for smoother shifts also I think....or so it says on the websites.

aarontrini85

it prevents the power loss from the engine moving it self around and also when you shift it wont rock the engine

Kaeon

Post up for sure, That would be good if they did...

mahalzkita28

hey break away, u talkin about me? i didnt pay for the engine damper that i have, i got it free but yea it does work. i agree with ya, i would never pay full price if i had to though.

BrEaK_AwaY

im talkin about anyone. i dont doubt it does what it says it does.... its a shock.. simple as that

XD40tC

I'll probably still buy it because I have no doubt that it works. I'll wait a while though to see what comes out and if Mr. I decides to give out the "blue prints" on his.

GoSwim

I e-mailed Energy Suspension back in June 29 and got this back:

Kaeon

Hmmmm

matty-tC

VERY good news.

Motorsport_TC

I'll definatly be picking those up

raamaudio

If you can let your car sit for a couple of days you can make your own filled mounts.

I use Devcon Flexane 80, a two part eurathane casting compound.

Just pull the front and rear mounts out, tape up one side really well, set them on a solid surface and well balanced, supported. Mix the eurathane and pour until filled to the edge of the mount. Let it sit and when done peal off the tape and intall them.

A 1 lb kit is plenty to do two cars front and rear mounts, costs around $30 per kit, a bit tough to find, I found a local dealer on the Devcon website then called them to order it, had it one day later

http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilypr...m?familyid=151

Rick

Dr_Isotope

iTrader: (1)

The other alterantive is to fill the mounts yourself with urethane, using either Window Weld (comes in caulking tubes and durometers very stiff, around 90), or use any of the two-part mixable urethanes. You can get a urethane kit from McMaster for about 30 bucks, and could fill all of your mounts. The two-part mixes come in hardnesses in the 60 range, up toward 100.

Please note, the ES and Prothane mounts are about a 72 durometer-- that's roughly the same rigidity as the sole of a new Vans shoe. A durometer 90 (like wondow weld) is about the same rigidity as one of those plastic mats you put under office chairs. The 90 will likely require you to drill holes through the fill to artificially lower the hardness (make it more compliant)-- otherwise, get used to your teeth chattering and all of your change rattling out of your pockets at stoplights.

raamaudio

I prefer pourable as get much more consistent results, no air gaps.

I used 92 in my first ones I built and removed most of the rubber as well as all the counter weights, bad idea. I hgad to drill holes and put the weights back on.

Now using 80, leaving the rubber in place and the weights. Hopefully will be just right, may end up drilling a few holes though.