Dr_Isotope

iTrader: (1)

The direct-fit options are (IMO) not pure performance pieces-- they make a conscious effort to retain some compliance. Companies like ES know that if you're gonna go pro-nutso, you'll just frame mount, and let the chassis deal with the twisting (and horrendous metal fatigue).

I agree that pourable is the more desirable option, and the array of hardnesses available is just another point in it's column. heck, bring a friend, get a 60A and an 80A, and mix up some ES-like duro 70A inserts. Or, take it to the other extreme... McMaster has some pourable 2-part acrylic, with a shore of 100D... Next closest thing to hard mounts.

Kaeon

Just called Energy spoke to a nice man who said there is nothing planned yet but he is going to take a look at this topic and bring it up in the next meeting. Maybe if we are lucky we can get a Kaeon Review on them

PghtC

Tell them to make them. That engine dampener is right up there with the headers that throw CELs with me. ugh...

I'll buy mount inserts.

The_Instigator

The engine damper may be a band aid approach, but it does what its supposed to do and if you take the time to get everything set up right its a fantastic mod...one of the best in my book. I took mine off a little while ago and couldnt beleive how different the car felt. After reinstalling it, everything is much more solid and precise with smoother power delivery, better more precise shifts, and a definite increase in acceleration off the line and when gunning it from a roll. Poly mounts are obviously the correct way to do it, but after the cost of the parts and the install (even if you do it yourself, it probably wont be as easy as a damper), is 170 really out of line by that much?

raamaudio

For a modest power increase, i.e. NA use, they can be quite good but still not the best as do not stop all the movement, just some of it and slow things down a bit as well.

For FI, race tires, etc, just not going to do the trick all that well, I know from experience on other Toyotas that are very similar in design.

Making your own eurathane mounts is really not that difficult, hard part is getting them out which is still relatively easy compared to doing something like a clutch swap, etc.

I like to cast ours from two part eurathane foam, Flexane 80 will be out next mod.

BUT, I did our front one out of eurathane window caulking jus to try it out so I could give better feedback to those interested in that approach.

It works but you have to work in a bit at a time so it will cure, if done all at once it will cure on the outside and never harden in the middle. I baked ours for 12 hours straight at 225 degrees and it still did not cure much below the surface. I had to dig it out, let the remaining cure, add more, rub it in down to about 1/8" thick, let it cure a few hours, this took 5 or so additional layers to get it done but the results turned out very well indeed.

I did cut out a bit of the stock rubber so more eurathane could be used.

The mount ended up a bit softer than the Flexane but even just doing the front mount, which is easy to remove and install, works at least as well as other dampers I have seen, we have no wheel hop on 235 pretty sticky street tires and much better shifts and no additional vibration or noise into the cabin.

$10.50 mod;) Very little added weight, what is added is mounted lower, better handling means less weight and better located. Maybe one part makes little difference but if you take this approach on the whole car, it can add up significantly.

No bling though so maybe not what some may prefer.

To be totally objective it would require a test with a stock car, one with the regular damper and one with eurathane to see how they perform against each other.

I would certainly do the front and rear mounts on any car I owned, just have not done our rear one yet as pulling the tranny soon anyway so waiting.

Rick

87na

what are the experts takes on solid aluminum motor mounts? what are the major differences between solid aluminum motor mounts vs urethane, etc? I have always seen solid online for domestic racers, but never seen any installed in person.

The_Instigator

Rattle your teeth out with metal mounts. All engine vibrations will be transferred directly into the chassis. No power loss, but a big downside

raamaudio

Yes, I would not advise solid except for a pure race car, would be horrible on a street car.

My first set of urethane mounts I removed most of the stock rubber, left enough just to keep the middle centered. Then I used a very stiff product that is 94% stiff, two part, pourable, worked beautifully.

That is until I installed them, I had also removed all the counter weights, the end result was this:

As soon as I started the car every possible part that could was resonating like crazy, the sun visors were almost a blur they were going at it so violently, lol!

I removed the mounts, welding the counter weights back on, then drilled 1/4" holes, approx 12 each around the center, evenly spaced through the urethane.

They were fine after that but will not try that one again, lol!

I now recommend using the windshield adhesive and keeping most all the stock rubber in place and keeping the counter weights on

Rick