whats the difficulty for installing clutch/flywheel?
04-17-2006, 06:08 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by xnevergiveinx
correct me if wrong, i believe that one of the ways to check a clutch is to put it in 3rd gear and let the clutch out. it should pull if the clutch is still good.
is this true?
how else would you check for clutch wear?
is this true?
how else would you check for clutch wear?
04-17-2006, 02:20 PM
#24
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It took us a while at Centerforce doing mine. But then again we were taking our time and cleaning everything as we went. It took us about 6 hours but we where not in any hurry either.
04-18-2006, 12:40 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by Harmonic_tC
you are correct. that is what the mechanic did. my car grabbed and stalled. he said its in perfect order.
04-18-2006, 12:50 AM
#27
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 533
i've had the CM fx100 for about 32,000 miles now and it's awesome - still grabs like a ****. I got mine for 300 shipped when it first came out and installed for 300 as well. I should have gotten the flywheel as well 
- my stock flywheel was shaved a little. the clutch releases at the floor!
- my stock flywheel was shaved a little. the clutch releases at the floor!
06-02-2006, 07:53 PM
#28
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Remember lo bux racer? Here are his instructions. I'm not sure I'm ready for this one my own. Willing to pay any experts who can help me out. I just hope my clutch makes it through the tuning process.
1. Safety glasses or goggles – you’ll be under the car and getting dirt in your eyes every 10 seconds without them – not a good plan.
2. 3 quarts of transaxle oil. It needs to be API GL-4, Toyota recommends 90 weight, Red Line recommends MT-90.
3. One new axle nut. OK, you don’t absolutely need it, but you’ll thank me for having it on hand.
4. An engine support bar like the OTC 1724.
5. A 6 point 14mm socket, preferably ½” drive for the flywheel bolts. A 12 point can damage the flywheel bolt, AMHIK.
6. An 18mm deep well, 3/8” drive to center the clutch disk.
7. A 19mm deep well socket, ½” drive for the subframe nuts.
8. A 32mm deep well socket, ½” drive for the drive axle nut.
9. A 24mm socket for the transaxle drain/fill bolts.
10. A 24” ½” drive extension for the rear engine mount.
11. A ½” drive air wrench. If you don’t have this, you have my sympathy, the job is going to be slow and painful.
How to do it:
1. Ensure you have let the car cool for at least 2 hours. If you have not, it is extremely likely you will burn yourself at some point. Even after 4 hours of cooling the flywheel will still be quite warm to the touch. I HIGHLY recommend letting the car sit overnight before starting this job.
2. Remove the windshield wipers and the cowling underneath them. This will give you clear access to the top of the strut towers.
3. Remove the battery, the plastic tray underneath, and the metal tray under the plastic tray.
4. Disconnect the MAF connection, and remove the intake tube, if you are stock, just remove the electrical connector and the screw holding the EVAP VSV in place. Leave everything else with the EVAP alone. You’ll be ahead of the game to take the throttlebody clamp and prepare it for reassembly (you’ll see it locks open with a tab gizmo). It is prudent to cover the throttlebody opening, but not critical if the engine bay is not dirty or dusty.
5. Remove the airbox (if stock).
6. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and the mount bolt for the slave cylinder hard line. DO NOT REMOVE THE LINE FROM THE SLAVE CYLINDER! Move the whole thing to the inside of the front bumper in front of the engine.
7. Remove the starter electrical connections and harness clip, then remove the starter.
8. Disconnect the main engine ground.
9. Remove the wiring harness from the clips in the middle of the transmission.
10. Disconnect the backup switch.
11. Remove the metal piece the wiring harnesses are clipped on, I like to call it the hand slicer. You don’t have to remove it if you don’t want to, but if you leave it in place, you’ll know why I call it the hand slicer when you remove the gearbox bolts.
12. Remove the clips and washers holding the shifter cables on the transmission gear selector. This is pretty easy with needle nose pliers.
13. Remove the clips holding the shifter cables on the transmission mount bracket. This is easier said than done. You’ll need to pry the clips upward, but don’t let them fly off and try to hide. They will if you let them. Pull the cables back just enough to get them off the bracket, and push them out of the way.
14. Put the engine support bar in place across the strut towers. Don’t even try to use the fenders, they will NOT support the engine’s weight and you’ll seriously disfigure your car. Use the two threaded holes on the head to attach the support using whatever method you prefer. I used J-hooks and 10 x 1.25 bolts in the head. Scion sells a hook kit for the 2AZ, it might be more convenient, but I didn’t need it. Lightly tension the engine on the front and end.
15. Remove the engine/transmission mount from the driver’s side end. To do this:
a. Remove the long center bolt
b. Remove the four bolts attaching the support to the chassis, and remove the heavy part.
c. Remove the three bolts holding the remaining bracket on the transmission.
16. If the car isn’t already on jackstands, now is the time to get it in the air. Support it using the factory jack points along the body seams under the rocker panels. It’s best if you can use four stands and get the car somewhat level.
17. Remove the two large engine undercovers completely.
18. DRAIN THE TRANSAXLE! If you forget to drain the transaxle first, you will get gearbox oil everywhere when you remove the first axle. AMHIK.
19. Remove the front wheels.
20. Remove the cover at the front of the wheel well that blocks the view of the transmission. No, not the wheel well liner, just the vertical cover held on with some push pins and a 10mm head bolt.
21. Remove the nut from the driver’s side drive axle only. It isn’t necessary to remove the nut on the passenger’s side.
22. Remove the ABS sensors from both sides, and remove the bracket holding the brake hoses.
23. Remove the upper strut bolts from both sides.
24. Put on your safety glasses if they are not already on, get under the car and remove the exhaust S-pipe. Be sure to disconnect the second O2 sensor electrical connector BEFORE you remove the four bolts holding it in place.
25. Remove the two bolts holding the carrier bearing for the passenger’s side drive shaft, and with an assistant, push the axle outward to remove it from the transaxle. Be careful not to damage the brake hose while you do this, and be sure the ABS sensor is completely out of harm’s way, it is expensive to replace. If you didn’t drain the oil, you’ve just taken a 90 weight petroleum bath, most likely all over your head. Not that I would know anything about this from experience…
26. Remove the axle from the driver’s side completely.
a. You will need to unstake the original nut, and you will need a 32m deep well to remove the nut. If you can grind off the staked part with a die grinder, you’ll be doing your axle a favor. The nut tends to like to damage the axle threads if you don’t get it unstaked well. You can also do this with a good sharp chisel, but it will not be as clean as grinding off the mashed part.
b. You will need to pry on the inboard end of the drive shaft. There are notches in this piece specifically for prying it out. I recommend removing the outboard end from the hub first, then prying the driveshaft out and setting it out of the way.
c. Again, be careful not to damage the brake hose by stretching it. You should never need to get it pulled taut at any time. If you are, you’re doing something wrong.
27. Remove the center bolt and nut for the front engine mount.
28. Lower the subframe (do NOT remove it completely!):
a. Loosen the 19mm nuts on the long chassis mounted studs. Run them all the way off, and thread them back on for about 3 full turns.
b. Remove the two bolts at the front of the crossmember; put one back in temporarily but only with a few turns so you can remove it with your fingers later.
c. Remove the three bolts and three nuts at the back of the crossmember. The nuts will require a 14mm deep well on a short extension. This will allow the rear engine mount to move freely away from the crossmember.
d. Using the extra long ½” extension, remove the center bolt from the rear engine mount. It is a 17mm head bolt and has a blind nut, so you can just spin it out with no worries. If you completed step b you will be able to move the rear engine mount easily to get the bolt out.
e. Remove the four 19mm head bolts and the crossmember bracket on the rear of the subframe. Be aware the subframe will lower, but not drop off as long as you rethreaded the 19mm head nuts on the front of the subframe.
f. If you ever wanted to install a front swaybar, NOW is the time to do it!
29. Remove the bolt from the front of the crossmember and swing the crossmember out of the way toward the driver’s side with the engine mount still attached (there is no need to remove it).
30. Remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the transmission.
31. Remove the four transmission bolts from the engine side of the transaxle at the bottom of the transmission.
32. Swing the crossmember back into place and put a bolt back in it to keep it out of the way.
33. Go to the top of the transmission and remove the 6 remaining bolts holding the gearbox on the engine.
34. Put a jack under the gearbox, and separate the gearbox from the engine. This may take a bit of physical effort. I’ve also found that raising the front of the engine with the support bar to angle it more backward is helpful. To get the gearbox out completely, you’ll need assistance. The rear engine mount has to go straight up until it disengages the rear engine mount bracket on the transmission. You can do this from the rear of the subframe, but you need to be cautious of your fingers because the parts in that area are all pretty sharp, and if you get caught between the mount and the transmission when it is coming off you could get seriously hurt. If you don’t get the mount up high enough, you’ll be in a losing battle with the gearbox not wanting to completely disengage because it isn’t coming off straight.
35. Lower the jack carefully with the gearbox on the jack. This is a lot easier said than done, there is no good balance point on the gearbox. Expect to make a controlled drop to the floor. Move the gearbox out of the way.
36. Finally, you can see the clutch! Remove the 6 bolts holding on the cover (pressure plate), beware, when you pull the last one, everything is going to want to fall on your head.
37. You now see the bare flywheel staring you in the face. Remove the 8 bolts with the 6 point 14mm socket to avoid damaging them. A 12 point will work, but if it slips and beats up a bolt, you may have a long wait to get a new one. AMHIK.
38. Clean the bolts and the holes in the crankshaft with brake cleaner, put the new flywheel in place (it’s a LOT easier to hold up there than the stock one!), put Loctite 242 or equivalent on the threads of the bolts, and re-install. Torque to 96 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern while your assistant is holding the flywheel from moving with a prybar against either of the two dowel pins used to align the transmission.
39. Replace the clutch disc and cover:
a. Hang the cover (pressure plate) with a single bolt at the top.
b. Be certain to center the disk with the 18mm deep well socket.
c. Thread up the other 5 bolts, be sure your disk is still centered, and tighten the 6 bolts in a double triangle pattern to 14 ft-lbs.
40. Raise the gearbox into position, and stab the input shaft into the disk. To make this easier, it is smart to raise up the rear engine mount above the rear engine mount bracket, or it will not want to stab straight. Be sure the mount drops into place on the subframe when the gearbox is in position. Also, if it doesn’t want to slide all the way into position, use a prybar or large screwdriver to rotate the engine using the starter gear and the dowel pin at the top of the engine near the rear. Usually a couple of teeth is all you need to rotate to align the transmission input shaft with the splines in the friction disk.
41. Start with the three biggest bolts on top of the transmission. The gearbox should be up tight against the engine, and there should be no significant gaps between the gearbox and engine. The bolts should thread in by hand without any serious resistance. Remember the block is aluminum, and you don’t want to do thread repairs because you got over-anxious and cross threaded these things.
42. Put the other three bolts in from the top side, two in the back near the shifter cables, and one in the front near the front dowel pin.
43. Go underneath and put in all four bottom bolts.
44. Tighten all the bolts until they are all snug but not tight. Torque the top three large bolts to 47 ft-lbs, the other three top bolts to 34 ft-lbs and the four underneath to 32 ft-lbs. For those of you who are going to cry foul by looking at pate 41-11 in the FSM, the diagram is wrong, and doesn’t accurately depict what I found on four tCs. They have it right on page 41-16.
45. Swing the crossmember out of the way, and install the front engine mount bracket. Tighten to 47 ft-lbs.
46. Move the crossmember back into position; temporarily install one bolt to hold it out of the way.
47. Install the rear engine mount long bolt with the extra long ½” drive extension. Don’t tighten it yet, but be sure it threads in all the way.
48. Tighten the two 19mm nuts on the front of the subframe. Tighten to 98 ft-lbs.
49. Install the two crossmember brackets at the rear of the subframe; tighten the big bolt at the front to 98 ft-lbs, and the 3 bolts at the back to 59 ft-lbs.
50. Install the driver’s side axle but don’t tighten the axle nut yet.
51. Install the driver’s side strut bolts. Tighten to 177 ft-lbs.
52. Install the ABS sensor and the bracket holding the ABS wire and brake line.
53. Install the new axle nut with the 32mm deep well socket and tighten to 160 ft-lbs. Stake the nut in place.
54. Install the passenger’s side axle by reinserting the carrier bearing in the bracket while engaging the splines in the transaxle. Install the 2 bolts holding the axle and tighten to 47 ft-lbs.
55. Install the passenger’s side strut bolts. Tighten to 177 ft-lbs.
56. Install the ABS sensor and the bracket holding the ABS wire and brake line.
57. Install passenger’s side tire. Tighten to 76 ft-lbs.
58. If you rotated the engine with the support bar, restore the engine to its normal position and insert the front engine mount bolt. Install the nut, but don’t tighten yet.
59. Install the 3 bolts and 3 nuts on the rear engine mount and crossmember from the bottom of the subframe. Tighten all to 48 ft-lbs.
60. Install the front 2 bolts in the crossmember. Tighten to 33 ft-lbs.
61. Install the engine mounting bracket to the top of the transmission with the 3 bolts you removed. Tighten to 47 ft-lbs. I know there is thread lock on them, but the book doesn’t tell you to use any.
62. Install the heavy piece that fits inside the mount to the frame with the four bolts you removed. Install just so the four bolts are started, then stab the long bolt from the front to the back and put the nut on it. Tighten the four chassis mount bolts to 38 ft-lbs.
63. Remove the engine support bar completely.
64. Now, tighten all the engine mount bolts:
a. Tighten the rear engine mount bolt with the long ½” extension to 64 ft-lbs.
b. Tighten the front engine mount bolt to 38 ft-lbs.
c. Tighten the transmission mount bolt to 64 ft-lbs
65. Install the S-pipe. The book says to never reuse the gasket, but I’ve not had any issues. Be sure to reconnect the second O2 or you will have a CEL for sure. Tighten to 32 ft-lbs.
66. Install the clutch slave cylinder. Tighten the 2 mount bolts to 9 ft-lbs, and the hard line mount to 69 in-lbs.
67. Replace the cover in the driver’s side wheel well.
68. Replace the engine undercovers.
69. Replace the driver’s side wheel. Tighten to 76 ft-lbs.
70. Install the shifter cables using the 2 clips, 2 washers, and 2 pins.
71. Connect the backup light.
72. Install the hand slicer and route the wiring harnesses. Install harness clamps to the hand slicer.
73. Install the engine ground wire. Use some antiseize on the bolts and beat the conductivity of a grounding kit to a pulp.
74. Install the starter. Torque to 27 ft-lbs.
75. Connect the starter electrical connections and connect the harness clamp to the mount on the rear starter bolt.
76. Install the metal battery tray, plastic battery tray, and battery.
77. Install the airbox (if using stock airbox)
78. Install air cleaner, upper box, and hose from airbox to throttlebody.
79. Reconnect the MAF wiring, re-install the EVAP VSV.
80. Refill the transmission with gearbox oil, tighten drain and fill to 36 ft-lbs.
81. Reinstall cowling and windshield wipers.
From: lo bux racer
1. Safety glasses or goggles – you’ll be under the car and getting dirt in your eyes every 10 seconds without them – not a good plan.
2. 3 quarts of transaxle oil. It needs to be API GL-4, Toyota recommends 90 weight, Red Line recommends MT-90.
3. One new axle nut. OK, you don’t absolutely need it, but you’ll thank me for having it on hand.
4. An engine support bar like the OTC 1724.
5. A 6 point 14mm socket, preferably ½” drive for the flywheel bolts. A 12 point can damage the flywheel bolt, AMHIK.
6. An 18mm deep well, 3/8” drive to center the clutch disk.
7. A 19mm deep well socket, ½” drive for the subframe nuts.
8. A 32mm deep well socket, ½” drive for the drive axle nut.
9. A 24mm socket for the transaxle drain/fill bolts.
10. A 24” ½” drive extension for the rear engine mount.
11. A ½” drive air wrench. If you don’t have this, you have my sympathy, the job is going to be slow and painful.
How to do it:
1. Ensure you have let the car cool for at least 2 hours. If you have not, it is extremely likely you will burn yourself at some point. Even after 4 hours of cooling the flywheel will still be quite warm to the touch. I HIGHLY recommend letting the car sit overnight before starting this job.
2. Remove the windshield wipers and the cowling underneath them. This will give you clear access to the top of the strut towers.
3. Remove the battery, the plastic tray underneath, and the metal tray under the plastic tray.
4. Disconnect the MAF connection, and remove the intake tube, if you are stock, just remove the electrical connector and the screw holding the EVAP VSV in place. Leave everything else with the EVAP alone. You’ll be ahead of the game to take the throttlebody clamp and prepare it for reassembly (you’ll see it locks open with a tab gizmo). It is prudent to cover the throttlebody opening, but not critical if the engine bay is not dirty or dusty.
5. Remove the airbox (if stock).
6. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and the mount bolt for the slave cylinder hard line. DO NOT REMOVE THE LINE FROM THE SLAVE CYLINDER! Move the whole thing to the inside of the front bumper in front of the engine.
7. Remove the starter electrical connections and harness clip, then remove the starter.
8. Disconnect the main engine ground.
9. Remove the wiring harness from the clips in the middle of the transmission.
10. Disconnect the backup switch.
11. Remove the metal piece the wiring harnesses are clipped on, I like to call it the hand slicer. You don’t have to remove it if you don’t want to, but if you leave it in place, you’ll know why I call it the hand slicer when you remove the gearbox bolts.
12. Remove the clips and washers holding the shifter cables on the transmission gear selector. This is pretty easy with needle nose pliers.
13. Remove the clips holding the shifter cables on the transmission mount bracket. This is easier said than done. You’ll need to pry the clips upward, but don’t let them fly off and try to hide. They will if you let them. Pull the cables back just enough to get them off the bracket, and push them out of the way.
14. Put the engine support bar in place across the strut towers. Don’t even try to use the fenders, they will NOT support the engine’s weight and you’ll seriously disfigure your car. Use the two threaded holes on the head to attach the support using whatever method you prefer. I used J-hooks and 10 x 1.25 bolts in the head. Scion sells a hook kit for the 2AZ, it might be more convenient, but I didn’t need it. Lightly tension the engine on the front and end.
15. Remove the engine/transmission mount from the driver’s side end. To do this:
a. Remove the long center bolt
b. Remove the four bolts attaching the support to the chassis, and remove the heavy part.
c. Remove the three bolts holding the remaining bracket on the transmission.
16. If the car isn’t already on jackstands, now is the time to get it in the air. Support it using the factory jack points along the body seams under the rocker panels. It’s best if you can use four stands and get the car somewhat level.
17. Remove the two large engine undercovers completely.
18. DRAIN THE TRANSAXLE! If you forget to drain the transaxle first, you will get gearbox oil everywhere when you remove the first axle. AMHIK.
19. Remove the front wheels.
20. Remove the cover at the front of the wheel well that blocks the view of the transmission. No, not the wheel well liner, just the vertical cover held on with some push pins and a 10mm head bolt.
21. Remove the nut from the driver’s side drive axle only. It isn’t necessary to remove the nut on the passenger’s side.
22. Remove the ABS sensors from both sides, and remove the bracket holding the brake hoses.
23. Remove the upper strut bolts from both sides.
24. Put on your safety glasses if they are not already on, get under the car and remove the exhaust S-pipe. Be sure to disconnect the second O2 sensor electrical connector BEFORE you remove the four bolts holding it in place.
25. Remove the two bolts holding the carrier bearing for the passenger’s side drive shaft, and with an assistant, push the axle outward to remove it from the transaxle. Be careful not to damage the brake hose while you do this, and be sure the ABS sensor is completely out of harm’s way, it is expensive to replace. If you didn’t drain the oil, you’ve just taken a 90 weight petroleum bath, most likely all over your head. Not that I would know anything about this from experience…
26. Remove the axle from the driver’s side completely.
a. You will need to unstake the original nut, and you will need a 32m deep well to remove the nut. If you can grind off the staked part with a die grinder, you’ll be doing your axle a favor. The nut tends to like to damage the axle threads if you don’t get it unstaked well. You can also do this with a good sharp chisel, but it will not be as clean as grinding off the mashed part.
b. You will need to pry on the inboard end of the drive shaft. There are notches in this piece specifically for prying it out. I recommend removing the outboard end from the hub first, then prying the driveshaft out and setting it out of the way.
c. Again, be careful not to damage the brake hose by stretching it. You should never need to get it pulled taut at any time. If you are, you’re doing something wrong.
27. Remove the center bolt and nut for the front engine mount.
28. Lower the subframe (do NOT remove it completely!):
a. Loosen the 19mm nuts on the long chassis mounted studs. Run them all the way off, and thread them back on for about 3 full turns.
b. Remove the two bolts at the front of the crossmember; put one back in temporarily but only with a few turns so you can remove it with your fingers later.
c. Remove the three bolts and three nuts at the back of the crossmember. The nuts will require a 14mm deep well on a short extension. This will allow the rear engine mount to move freely away from the crossmember.
d. Using the extra long ½” extension, remove the center bolt from the rear engine mount. It is a 17mm head bolt and has a blind nut, so you can just spin it out with no worries. If you completed step b you will be able to move the rear engine mount easily to get the bolt out.
e. Remove the four 19mm head bolts and the crossmember bracket on the rear of the subframe. Be aware the subframe will lower, but not drop off as long as you rethreaded the 19mm head nuts on the front of the subframe.
f. If you ever wanted to install a front swaybar, NOW is the time to do it!
29. Remove the bolt from the front of the crossmember and swing the crossmember out of the way toward the driver’s side with the engine mount still attached (there is no need to remove it).
30. Remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the transmission.
31. Remove the four transmission bolts from the engine side of the transaxle at the bottom of the transmission.
32. Swing the crossmember back into place and put a bolt back in it to keep it out of the way.
33. Go to the top of the transmission and remove the 6 remaining bolts holding the gearbox on the engine.
34. Put a jack under the gearbox, and separate the gearbox from the engine. This may take a bit of physical effort. I’ve also found that raising the front of the engine with the support bar to angle it more backward is helpful. To get the gearbox out completely, you’ll need assistance. The rear engine mount has to go straight up until it disengages the rear engine mount bracket on the transmission. You can do this from the rear of the subframe, but you need to be cautious of your fingers because the parts in that area are all pretty sharp, and if you get caught between the mount and the transmission when it is coming off you could get seriously hurt. If you don’t get the mount up high enough, you’ll be in a losing battle with the gearbox not wanting to completely disengage because it isn’t coming off straight.
35. Lower the jack carefully with the gearbox on the jack. This is a lot easier said than done, there is no good balance point on the gearbox. Expect to make a controlled drop to the floor. Move the gearbox out of the way.
36. Finally, you can see the clutch! Remove the 6 bolts holding on the cover (pressure plate), beware, when you pull the last one, everything is going to want to fall on your head.
37. You now see the bare flywheel staring you in the face. Remove the 8 bolts with the 6 point 14mm socket to avoid damaging them. A 12 point will work, but if it slips and beats up a bolt, you may have a long wait to get a new one. AMHIK.
38. Clean the bolts and the holes in the crankshaft with brake cleaner, put the new flywheel in place (it’s a LOT easier to hold up there than the stock one!), put Loctite 242 or equivalent on the threads of the bolts, and re-install. Torque to 96 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern while your assistant is holding the flywheel from moving with a prybar against either of the two dowel pins used to align the transmission.
39. Replace the clutch disc and cover:
a. Hang the cover (pressure plate) with a single bolt at the top.
b. Be certain to center the disk with the 18mm deep well socket.
c. Thread up the other 5 bolts, be sure your disk is still centered, and tighten the 6 bolts in a double triangle pattern to 14 ft-lbs.
40. Raise the gearbox into position, and stab the input shaft into the disk. To make this easier, it is smart to raise up the rear engine mount above the rear engine mount bracket, or it will not want to stab straight. Be sure the mount drops into place on the subframe when the gearbox is in position. Also, if it doesn’t want to slide all the way into position, use a prybar or large screwdriver to rotate the engine using the starter gear and the dowel pin at the top of the engine near the rear. Usually a couple of teeth is all you need to rotate to align the transmission input shaft with the splines in the friction disk.
41. Start with the three biggest bolts on top of the transmission. The gearbox should be up tight against the engine, and there should be no significant gaps between the gearbox and engine. The bolts should thread in by hand without any serious resistance. Remember the block is aluminum, and you don’t want to do thread repairs because you got over-anxious and cross threaded these things.
42. Put the other three bolts in from the top side, two in the back near the shifter cables, and one in the front near the front dowel pin.
43. Go underneath and put in all four bottom bolts.
44. Tighten all the bolts until they are all snug but not tight. Torque the top three large bolts to 47 ft-lbs, the other three top bolts to 34 ft-lbs and the four underneath to 32 ft-lbs. For those of you who are going to cry foul by looking at pate 41-11 in the FSM, the diagram is wrong, and doesn’t accurately depict what I found on four tCs. They have it right on page 41-16.
45. Swing the crossmember out of the way, and install the front engine mount bracket. Tighten to 47 ft-lbs.
46. Move the crossmember back into position; temporarily install one bolt to hold it out of the way.
47. Install the rear engine mount long bolt with the extra long ½” drive extension. Don’t tighten it yet, but be sure it threads in all the way.
48. Tighten the two 19mm nuts on the front of the subframe. Tighten to 98 ft-lbs.
49. Install the two crossmember brackets at the rear of the subframe; tighten the big bolt at the front to 98 ft-lbs, and the 3 bolts at the back to 59 ft-lbs.
50. Install the driver’s side axle but don’t tighten the axle nut yet.
51. Install the driver’s side strut bolts. Tighten to 177 ft-lbs.
52. Install the ABS sensor and the bracket holding the ABS wire and brake line.
53. Install the new axle nut with the 32mm deep well socket and tighten to 160 ft-lbs. Stake the nut in place.
54. Install the passenger’s side axle by reinserting the carrier bearing in the bracket while engaging the splines in the transaxle. Install the 2 bolts holding the axle and tighten to 47 ft-lbs.
55. Install the passenger’s side strut bolts. Tighten to 177 ft-lbs.
56. Install the ABS sensor and the bracket holding the ABS wire and brake line.
57. Install passenger’s side tire. Tighten to 76 ft-lbs.
58. If you rotated the engine with the support bar, restore the engine to its normal position and insert the front engine mount bolt. Install the nut, but don’t tighten yet.
59. Install the 3 bolts and 3 nuts on the rear engine mount and crossmember from the bottom of the subframe. Tighten all to 48 ft-lbs.
60. Install the front 2 bolts in the crossmember. Tighten to 33 ft-lbs.
61. Install the engine mounting bracket to the top of the transmission with the 3 bolts you removed. Tighten to 47 ft-lbs. I know there is thread lock on them, but the book doesn’t tell you to use any.
62. Install the heavy piece that fits inside the mount to the frame with the four bolts you removed. Install just so the four bolts are started, then stab the long bolt from the front to the back and put the nut on it. Tighten the four chassis mount bolts to 38 ft-lbs.
63. Remove the engine support bar completely.
64. Now, tighten all the engine mount bolts:
a. Tighten the rear engine mount bolt with the long ½” extension to 64 ft-lbs.
b. Tighten the front engine mount bolt to 38 ft-lbs.
c. Tighten the transmission mount bolt to 64 ft-lbs
65. Install the S-pipe. The book says to never reuse the gasket, but I’ve not had any issues. Be sure to reconnect the second O2 or you will have a CEL for sure. Tighten to 32 ft-lbs.
66. Install the clutch slave cylinder. Tighten the 2 mount bolts to 9 ft-lbs, and the hard line mount to 69 in-lbs.
67. Replace the cover in the driver’s side wheel well.
68. Replace the engine undercovers.
69. Replace the driver’s side wheel. Tighten to 76 ft-lbs.
70. Install the shifter cables using the 2 clips, 2 washers, and 2 pins.
71. Connect the backup light.
72. Install the hand slicer and route the wiring harnesses. Install harness clamps to the hand slicer.
73. Install the engine ground wire. Use some antiseize on the bolts and beat the conductivity of a grounding kit to a pulp.
74. Install the starter. Torque to 27 ft-lbs.
75. Connect the starter electrical connections and connect the harness clamp to the mount on the rear starter bolt.
76. Install the metal battery tray, plastic battery tray, and battery.
77. Install the airbox (if using stock airbox)
78. Install air cleaner, upper box, and hose from airbox to throttlebody.
79. Reconnect the MAF wiring, re-install the EVAP VSV.
80. Refill the transmission with gearbox oil, tighten drain and fill to 36 ft-lbs.
81. Reinstall cowling and windshield wipers.
From: lo bux racer
WOW! A page long how to, awesome write up man!
06-03-2006, 03:06 AM
#30
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 227
I have to say... upgrading clutch/flywheel is probably the best modification out there right now for N/A. Car has a quicker response and pulls beautifully!
I got my Fidanza Flywheel from ZPI $259, Spec Stg. 2 from local shop $399 (Best to do both @ once) = $600 in installation. I thought that was reasonable, I also had my TWM Stg.2 Short shifter installed as well. Great stuff!
I got my Fidanza Flywheel from ZPI $259, Spec Stg. 2 from local shop $399 (Best to do both @ once) = $600 in installation. I thought that was reasonable, I also had my TWM Stg.2 Short shifter installed as well. Great stuff!
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TheRedBox
Scion xA/xB 1st-Gen Drivetrain & Power
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12-02-2003 04:53 PM
