3 Bad Turbo's in 1 year (Updated pg2)
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Another thing to pay attention to is the ID of the fitting on the oil pan for the oil return line. We've seen press-on fitting to oil return line that are 5/8" OD to fit the 5/8" ID of the oil return line, but if you look at the opening of the orifice or ID of the fitting it's only 1/4" instead of 3/8" or more. So the smallest opening along the path of the oil return line is going to dicate the maximum flow of the oil path.
Also keep in mind that there are a lot turbos on the market that are knock-off of either a mitsubishi turbo or garrett turbo. These turbos will fail regardless. Remember, you get what you paid for. It's better to pay more for the real stuff up front then to paid many times over for a cheap turbo that's going to cost you a lot more in the long run in terms of parts, labor and downtime.
MrC
Also keep in mind that there are a lot turbos on the market that are knock-off of either a mitsubishi turbo or garrett turbo. These turbos will fail regardless. Remember, you get what you paid for. It's better to pay more for the real stuff up front then to paid many times over for a cheap turbo that's going to cost you a lot more in the long run in terms of parts, labor and downtime.
MrC
Originally Posted by Ptuningcom
Another thing to pay attention to is the ID of the fitting on the oil pan for the oil return line. We've seen press-on fitting to oil return line that are 5/8" OD to fit the 5/8" ID of the oil return line, but if you look at the opening of the orifice or ID of the fitting it's only 1/4" instead of 3/8" or more. So the smallest opening along the path of the oil return line is going to dicate the maximum flow of the oil path.
Also keep in mind that there are a lot turbos on the market that are knock-off of either a mitsubishi turbo or garrett turbo. These turbos will fail regardless. Remember, you get what you paid for. It's better to pay more for the real stuff up front then to paid many times over for a cheap turbo that's going to cost you a lot more in the long run in terms of parts, labor and downtime.
MrC
Also keep in mind that there are a lot turbos on the market that are knock-off of either a mitsubishi turbo or garrett turbo. These turbos will fail regardless. Remember, you get what you paid for. It's better to pay more for the real stuff up front then to paid many times over for a cheap turbo that's going to cost you a lot more in the long run in terms of parts, labor and downtime.
MrC
hey kumitsu what size return line are you running and how are you planning on lowering the pressure? I have had the same issue but in my turbonetics kit and I don't want the same issues to repeat with my new greddy turbo and my new clean piping.
Originally Posted by PlayinWithFire
hey kumitsu what size return line are you running and how are you planning on lowering the pressure? I have had the same issue but in my turbonetics kit and I don't want the same issues to repeat with my new greddy turbo and my new clean piping.
Originally Posted by Ptuningcom
Originally Posted by rhythmnsmoke
That's all good and very informative. Problem is, my oil return line is a Direct Shot toward my oil pan (no, dip, bend, loop) period. And yet the seals Still blow.
It's pretty high up. Can get a measurement tomorrow.
Looks like a drain issue. I dont get any oil build up around my drain plug on the oil pan. Looks like you have a pretty good leak coming from that area. Whatever the case. This doesnt look to be the turbos fault imo. I can see oil dripping out of the bov. Also where is the oil coming from thats all over the block?
Just wondering. How much oil do you use when you change the oil? I read one time some dude was putting in 5qts.
Just wondering. How much oil do you use when you change the oil? I read one time some dude was putting in 5qts.
Originally Posted by yamaha16bw
Looks like a drain issue. I dont get any oil build up around my drain plug on the oil pan. Looks like you have a pretty good leak coming from that area. Whatever the case. This doesnt look to be the turbos fault imo. I can see oil dripping out of the bov. Also where is the oil coming from thats all over the block?
Just wondering. How much oil do you use when you change the oil? I read one time some dude was putting in 5qts.
Just wondering. How much oil do you use when you change the oil? I read one time some dude was putting in 5qts.
5qts...
Originally Posted by yamaha16bw
Looks like a drain issue. I dont get any oil build up around my drain plug on the oil pan. Looks like you have a pretty good leak coming from that area. Whatever the case. This doesnt look to be the turbos fault imo. I can see oil dripping out of the bov. Also where is the oil coming from thats all over the block?
Just wondering. How much oil do you use when you change the oil? I read one time some dude was putting in 5qts.
Just wondering. How much oil do you use when you change the oil? I read one time some dude was putting in 5qts.
I also took out the valve cover breather and it's blowing out a little bit of smoke. I disconnected it from the intake pipe and I plugged in the intake pipe with hard tape and i am letting the breather hang in the air for a couple of drives to see what happens.
thats a pretty bad leak from the drain... i would try upgrading to an L type return on the lower and with fittings... that will be more secure and should transfer oil smoother into the oil pan...it looks like u might be getting some blow by also from the breather?? have u tried using a catch can to try to catch some of that oil?? i cant tell to much...
pics of fittings
90 degree

45 degree
pics of fittings
90 degree

45 degree
Guest
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If you're getting that much blow by, it's from pressuring the crank case either througha faulty head gasket or more like worn out piston rings, or even worn out valve stem seals. I would at a minimum do a compression test and if possible do a leakdown test to get a better idea of the condition of your motor and if it's not holding compression, at least the leakdown test can give you a better idea of where the combustion leak is coming from that causing your crankcase to pressurize and forcing oil out of the breather hose.
Turbo or no turbo, there should never be that much fresh oil all over your motor.
Good luck, i hope it's something simple and not a engine issue.
MrC
Turbo or no turbo, there should never be that much fresh oil all over your motor.
Good luck, i hope it's something simple and not a engine issue.
MrC
Originally Posted by Ptuningcom
If you're getting that much blow by, it's from pressuring the crank case either througha faulty head gasket or more like worn out piston rings, or even worn out valve stem seals. I would at a minimum do a compression test and if possible do a leakdown test to get a better idea of the condition of your motor and if it's not holding compression, at least the leakdown test can give you a better idea of where the combustion leak is coming from that causing your crankcase to pressurize and forcing oil out of the breather hose.
Turbo or no turbo, there should never be that much fresh oil all over your motor.
Good luck, i hope it's something simple and not a engine issue.
MrC
Turbo or no turbo, there should never be that much fresh oil all over your motor.
Good luck, i hope it's something simple and not a engine issue.
MrC
Completely agree with everything he said.
What about the PCV valve in the back of the valve cover? If thats bad wouldn't the pressure in the intake manifold go up through the line through the PCV valve and blow oil out the other side off the valve cover/ breather hole. Then it would blow the oil into the intake through the turbo. Correct me if im wrong..
Originally Posted by Matt_Burgess
What about the PCV valve in the back of the valve cover? If thats bad wouldn't the pressure in the intake manifold go up through the line through the PCV valve and blow oil out the other side off the valve cover/ breather hole. Then it would blow the oil into the intake through the turbo. Correct me if im wrong..
Update; my mechanic and i decided not to run any tests on the vehicle. Just by looking at it he told me that my car's blowby is getting worst, so instead of spending the money to test it , i might as well put that money towards a new bottom end, or buy a used motor.
He also said i can drive like that perfectly, my motor can last me awhile 1-2years at most if i DONT boost it. but if i keep boosting it i will keep putting pressure in the crank case and eventually it will die.
cheap used motor will probably be installed this month, in the meantime i will baby my car for awhile.
Conclusion: It was never the turbo.
Thank You all for your help.
He also said i can drive like that perfectly, my motor can last me awhile 1-2years at most if i DONT boost it. but if i keep boosting it i will keep putting pressure in the crank case and eventually it will die.
cheap used motor will probably be installed this month, in the meantime i will baby my car for awhile.
Conclusion: It was never the turbo.
Thank You all for your help.



















