best turbo for 500-650 hp scion tc roll racing
QFT?
To the OP for the 500-600, its not hard to get to that mark with the right mods but like everyone else has stated: 1st issues is traction (you won't get any), 2nd is breaking transmissions. My car wasn't dyno'd tuned but street tuned on 93 at 16lbs of boost it still made 350 hp and 325 tq on a mustang dyno. 4700-5300 rpms on the dyno my car was running 10:1 afr and don't know why bc street was perfect. My point is I dont get traction until 4th gear. I am running 255/40/17 tires and LSD, with a decent suspension setup. You would have to run drag radials or straight slicks on the street for traction.
To the OP for the 500-600, its not hard to get to that mark with the right mods but like everyone else has stated: 1st issues is traction (you won't get any), 2nd is breaking transmissions. My car wasn't dyno'd tuned but street tuned on 93 at 16lbs of boost it still made 350 hp and 325 tq on a mustang dyno. 4700-5300 rpms on the dyno my car was running 10:1 afr and don't know why bc street was perfect. My point is I dont get traction until 4th gear. I am running 255/40/17 tires and LSD, with a decent suspension setup. You would have to run drag radials or straight slicks on the street for traction.
I know I don't say much around here anymore but, in my findings I have found that since Precision and Garrett have split, Precision reliability has suffered. I personally use a FP HTA2868 on my vehicle and used Garrett on my buddies builds. My good friend with a subaru STI suffered two teardowns (gaskets, gaskets, gaskets!) for warranty repair on his Precision. Both his original and replacement didn't last more than 5k. I got a sick feeling in my stomach after that because I was a fan and user of the ol' t61.
I'm not flaming on them because horror stories can be told of all turbo companies. I tend to sway to rebuilt turbos because the cartridge has gone through some heat cycling and has already shifted as opposed to new cast iron that may not have been heated yet. If you get extra funds buy an ebay turbo take it apart and see for yourself that a Precision and Ebay don't look much different. I can't say I've taken apart a Garrett for myself because I've always sent mine back for warranty or repair. I have taken various others apart, some for fun others because of fails.
So now your prolly asking yourself "why is he telling me this?" The answer is simple a turbo is a turbo is a turbo. They operate on the same principle as the other turbos before them. What is different is workmanship and materials, that is what you should buy into. Billet is lighter, faster spool, and is expensive because of workmanship and materials. Stainless steel housing also expensive again because of the workmanship and materials. China etc. bearing vs tested proven bearing will always yield results in favor of the workmanship and material.
I don't like asking around much about turbos because you will always have that one guy with doom and gloom fail experiences. Again, look for the workmanship and materials in your products. If you look for this in your turbo you will always get the best deal. I have my personal favorites and know of great companies for turbos but keep most of them to myself because of those doom and gloomers.
I'm off my soap box now but have fun with your build and if you end up buying an ebay turbo lasting 100,000 miles good on you brother. Building a car for boost is always going to be expensive no matter how you put it.
I'm not flaming on them because horror stories can be told of all turbo companies. I tend to sway to rebuilt turbos because the cartridge has gone through some heat cycling and has already shifted as opposed to new cast iron that may not have been heated yet. If you get extra funds buy an ebay turbo take it apart and see for yourself that a Precision and Ebay don't look much different. I can't say I've taken apart a Garrett for myself because I've always sent mine back for warranty or repair. I have taken various others apart, some for fun others because of fails.
So now your prolly asking yourself "why is he telling me this?" The answer is simple a turbo is a turbo is a turbo. They operate on the same principle as the other turbos before them. What is different is workmanship and materials, that is what you should buy into. Billet is lighter, faster spool, and is expensive because of workmanship and materials. Stainless steel housing also expensive again because of the workmanship and materials. China etc. bearing vs tested proven bearing will always yield results in favor of the workmanship and material.
I don't like asking around much about turbos because you will always have that one guy with doom and gloom fail experiences. Again, look for the workmanship and materials in your products. If you look for this in your turbo you will always get the best deal. I have my personal favorites and know of great companies for turbos but keep most of them to myself because of those doom and gloomers.
I'm off my soap box now but have fun with your build and if you end up buying an ebay turbo lasting 100,000 miles good on you brother. Building a car for boost is always going to be expensive no matter how you put it.
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QFT?
To the OP for the 500-600, its not hard to get to that mark with the right mods but like everyone else has stated: 1st issues is traction (you won't get any), 2nd is breaking transmissions. My car wasn't dyno'd tuned but street tuned on 93 at 16lbs of boost it still made 350 hp and 325 tq on a mustang dyno. 4700-5300 rpms on the dyno my car was running 10:1 afr and don't know why bc street was perfect. My point is I dont get traction until 4th gear. I am running 255/40/17 tires and LSD, with a decent suspension setup. You would have to run drag radials or straight slicks on the street for traction.
To the OP for the 500-600, its not hard to get to that mark with the right mods but like everyone else has stated: 1st issues is traction (you won't get any), 2nd is breaking transmissions. My car wasn't dyno'd tuned but street tuned on 93 at 16lbs of boost it still made 350 hp and 325 tq on a mustang dyno. 4700-5300 rpms on the dyno my car was running 10:1 afr and don't know why bc street was perfect. My point is I dont get traction until 4th gear. I am running 255/40/17 tires and LSD, with a decent suspension setup. You would have to run drag radials or straight slicks on the street for traction.
west palm beach florida .lol you think that after i spend 10k-15k building my tc and all that im gonna be racing the hell out of it NO. Im gonna be with street tires normal like a stock scion tc i just want to be fast and reliable at track time or race time .. Hope you understand it
west palm beach florida .lol you think that after i spend 10k-15k building my tc and all that im gonna be racing the hell out of it NO. Im gonna be with street tires normal like a stock scion tc i just want to be fast and reliable at track time or race time .. Hope you understand it
west palm beach florida .lol you think that after i spend 10k-15k building my tc and all that im gonna be racing the hell out of it NO. Im gonna be with street tires normal like a stock scion tc i just want to be fast and reliable at track time or race time .. Hope you understand it
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Ive got bad **** street tires, im not going to constantly switch just cause. Ill have two spare rims to mount my track tires and thats its. Racing on the street is dumb, way too many cops around, streets arent perfect here in Florida (roads are ate up pretty bad), other idiot drivers out there, its just asking to get in an accident.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0vzBPghJD8
Watch this and just tell me if you see any cars in front of the 2 cars racing only one and he was watching . This was a bmw m3 1jz vs srt4 this was a 60 roll the bmw lost all the traction and he got it when he switch to 3rd and there is goes and he was on street tires and the srt4 was on drag radials
Watch this and just tell me if you see any cars in front of the 2 cars racing only one and he was watching . This was a bmw m3 1jz vs srt4 this was a 60 roll the bmw lost all the traction and he got it when he switch to 3rd and there is goes and he was on street tires and the srt4 was on drag radials
Check out this video on YouTube:
http://youtu.be/W6RfIoJTd7E
Also watch this vid cus i know blacknight said he dont get traction till 4th with just 350 hp i will suggest to buy tires anorther kind of tires.. This is a 600hp honda civic FWD beating a 600hp+ gtr AWD from 60 roll street racing lol
http://youtu.be/W6RfIoJTd7E
Also watch this vid cus i know blacknight said he dont get traction till 4th with just 350 hp i will suggest to buy tires anorther kind of tires.. This is a 600hp honda civic FWD beating a 600hp+ gtr AWD from 60 roll street racing lol
Its not necessary hp that causes tires to break traction, did you forget torque? Honda did! On normal paved streets 4th gets traction on country type rough paved roads it wont all the time.
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Btw people can claim all they want until both their car and mine gets on the same dyno, the same day I wont believe. I have to ask by the way youre acting, how old are you? 21?
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you are really good at guessing im 20 gonna be 21 in 3 days .. Maybe where you live nobody street race but come visit florida i take you to the meets so you can see what im talking about and im done lol if you dont street race thats goo for you be safe
Im in Florida. Just one thing in mind too many people get hung up on peak power and don't consider the entire power band (usable power)
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Yea but in what part of florida are you lol florida is huge have go to the races of miami them you gonna be talking about street racing all day long
QFT?
To the OP for the 500-600, its not hard to get to that mark with the right mods but like everyone else has stated: 1st issues is traction (you won't get any), 2nd is breaking transmissions. My car wasn't dyno'd tuned but street tuned on 93 at 16lbs of boost it still made 350 hp and 325 tq on a mustang dyno. 4700-5300 rpms on the dyno my car was running 10:1 afr and don't know why bc street was perfect. My point is I dont get traction until 4th gear. I am running 255/40/17 tires and LSD, with a decent suspension setup. You would have to run drag radials or straight slicks on the street for traction.
To the OP for the 500-600, its not hard to get to that mark with the right mods but like everyone else has stated: 1st issues is traction (you won't get any), 2nd is breaking transmissions. My car wasn't dyno'd tuned but street tuned on 93 at 16lbs of boost it still made 350 hp and 325 tq on a mustang dyno. 4700-5300 rpms on the dyno my car was running 10:1 afr and don't know why bc street was perfect. My point is I dont get traction until 4th gear. I am running 255/40/17 tires and LSD, with a decent suspension setup. You would have to run drag radials or straight slicks on the street for traction.
Or perhaps you should get a boost controller with the ability to do boost by gear, or a progressive increase in boost based on speed.





