ok ill pull them tomorrow sometime and post some pictures. ill make sure they are around 31. and anyone selling bigger injectors or want to buy mine?

 

Are you using a pressure/map sensor with the ultimate ? I have seen tCs with an early rev limit as the MAF voltage maxes out.

 

Can't the voltage be clamped?

Sent from my DROID incredible

 

No I'm not using a pressure sensor. But that would make it go lean in higher rpm?

 

When does your setup start to build boost? Also, do you have a wideband system and a EGT gauge? What do your intake temps look like? Timing? In my opinion, 10psi is too much for proper control with 440cc injectors. Revert to spring control only on the WG (I don't know if I'm reading this right) or are you saying that its set for 9 psi but your tuner gave you room in the tune for 10psi? I hate using PSI as a benchmark for nearly anything. Flow and efficency matter more in my book.

I don't think running the Ultimate without a MAP is a wise idea. From what I have seen and learned about the ECM, is that it responds so much better with a piggyback system that can manipulate the O2 setup. Also, the timing control with the greddy is shotty at best. You should be monitoring your ECM with a scanner to actually see what the ECM is doing. Without a scanner your taking wild stabs in the dark at what the problem is. If you have a scanner post some datalogs for some help. I would say look at what the ECM is doing first, this will give you a good window at what your dealing with. My car did the whole cut-out thing when the ECM decided my AEM FIC was an intruder. I didn't reinvent my tune to solve the problem it just took some datalogs and some slight adjustments to get it down.

 

Im suprised your tuner didn't recommend the pressure/map sensor. Im guessing that's the problem, factory maf pegs out ~5psi if not clamped.

Ultimate is a better choice than the FIC for the tC, but you have to run the pressure/map sensor with it.

 

The biggest difference and really the only difference that matters between the AEM and Greddy is the Greddy can't skew O2 readings to control partial throttle or the lean dips between shifts. The Scion TC ECM is centered on the O2 sensor during partial throttle settings. This alone makes the Greddy a poor decision for a Scion ECM.

I don't like that you can't advance timing with the AEM or increase your rev limiter. You have to remember though, that these choices are all piggybacks. Piggybacks have always offered limited abilities because they use your existing ECM for tuning. I have always wished for a Programmer to break that dang Scion ECM and mod it already!

 

I'm sure this subject has been covered numerous amounts of times! There should be a write up on realworld comparisons between piggybacks somewhere on this forum. I myself have used 3 different kinds of Managements. Two piggybacks and one hybrid. Greddy Blue Box, AEM FIC and APR X1. I never opted for the ultimate though because I heard the blue and the ultimate shared the same flaw no O2 sensor skew. Maybe someone else can chime in on this matter with more insight and user feedback?

 

I think the concept of the fic is great, but AEM lacks in their quality control standards. When 1 of 3 or 4 units is faulty out of the box, it becomes frustrating. And the onboard map sensor is crap . You would thinnk a car running 8psi across the map sensor would read so, instead of fluctuating between 6 and 10. I have seen the same map loaded on 2 fic units... and the afr is a whole point off.

Greddy has o2 spoofing option ( seperate box wired into harness ) but Scion folk don't use it. We tested it 3 yrs ago, works fine. Is it necessary ? Not really . I like Greddy because out of the probably 100 or so tCs that have come across our dyno, Greddy units always end up tuning without hiccups and the tune from what comes off the dyno is what it is on the street.

 

blown xa I see that you hate AEM, I get it! I'm not a spokes person for AEM nor am I against Greddy (I have both). Where can I get one of these O2 sensor skew boxes for a Greddy?

Looking at black cherry's setup I would say that O2 is way too close to the turbo! You could see about heatsinking that O2 sensor, excess heat may be throwing that sensor off. Subaru's have similar problems because of excess heat on their O2's many choose to heat sink theirs for this reason. I believe max operational temps on the toyota sensors are around 1200F. As you know the ECM adjusts your A/F ratios with that sucker.

You mentioned earlier that you swapped out sensors with your Girl? See real quick what a O2 swap does (if she'll let you)? That and some datalogs.

 

i used my girls o2 sensor and the light came back on within 1/8th of a mile and where can i get this pressure/map sensor. and how do i heat sink my o2 sensor. thanks for all your help guys. and ptuning is located what state. and city?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/C1-Em...#ht_2688wt_939

Ive used this same map sensor on all the tC's Ive tuned with the EMU - 3 now and all run perfectly. IMHO, Id take an EMU over everything other than a full standalone and going to cable throttle. FYI - if you order it, itll take about a week to get it - it ships from hong kong, but will save you $60-80 over the Greddy branded sensor.

 

ya that one says it is for blue i have ultimate does it really matter. and it looks cheap im kinda scared.

 

No it works fine - thats the ebay seller I bought mine from, and 2 other guys Ive recommended to. Its just like the AEM boost control solenoids - everyone sells them for like $100, but yet its really just a MAC solenoid you can buy for $20.

 

ok man thanks

 

soflotc was having exacly the same problem contact him

 

Thank you! That needed to be said. I only had 2 buggy, problematic FICs but that was enough for me. 2 out of 2 ain't good. No, it wasn't "the tune". LOL

Speaking of AEM QC, my over-priced $250 AEM boost gauge read 4 in hg (~2 psi) high and when I contacted AEM tech support about it I was told that they shipped "a batch of defective sending units". No recall was issued, no notice was provided, not even a small print warning on their website was given... only those customers who noticed the problem and sent their defective sending units back for "testing" received working replacements.

 

thats what i hate of nonturbo cars when u make it turbo u have to worry about tunes and all that ... just a little change and u have to retune ... thats why im selling my tc and getting a evo or a srt4 or a subaru

 

You make a heat sink with a piece of copper plate a little thicker than foil. Not to thick that it doesn't bend. Drill a hole in the middle of it where your o2 sensor will go in at then cut lines going in like a daisy flower then bend one up the next down. You got yourself a heat sink.

 

Here is one popular way of making one.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...1&d=1179724682