Scionlife.com - DIY-AEM F/IC-now with 2-Step launch control

Here is a Vid to prove it...this is just a test to check it out and I need to do a bit more before i post a DIY on it. parts are cheap for it and doesnt require much to do really.
Also in the Vid iv got the bottom part of the stock air box off so it sounds a little beefier if anyone was wondering.

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...h_MVI_1692.jpg

again this is just a test so far.

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AEM F/IC 2-Step DIY
This is for off-road use only and is done at your own risk!!!

Supplies

AEM Fic
Attachment 97201
Fic Harness
Attachment 97202
Shrink tube
Attachment 97203
Crimp Connectors
Attachment 97204
14 Gauge Wire and 24 Gauge Wire
Attachment 97205
Attachment 97206
Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 Socket Crimp Terminal (This is if you dont have a spare universal harness to pull pins from and using the boomslang pnp harness. If your hardwired using the universal harness your one lucky guy cause youll save yourself some time)
Attachment 97207
Attachment 97208
12 Volt 30 Amp Relay (Five pin relay with one "normally closed" contact)
Attachment 97209
Small Limit Switch (aka Mini snap action switch)
Attachment 97210
Attachment 97211
Zip Ties
12 Volt 15 Amp Toggle Switch
Velcro Tape or Double Sided Tape (optional)
Self Taping Sheet Metal Screw (optional)
Red Bull (almost manditory..lol)
Attachment 97212

Most of this stuff can be found at Fry's electronics except for fic, pnp harness, molex pins. Fic and harness can be found at www.dezod.com and molex pins can be found at www.alliedelec.com .

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Tools

Crimpers
Stripers
Multi-meter (for checking connections and trouble shooting)
Attachment 97213
Flat head screw driver
Tiny drill (skill xo, ryobi 4volt driver, etc) (optional)
Philips head screw driver (optional)
Solder
Soldering Iron
Knife
Lighter or heat gun

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Pre-wiring

We will start with the relay, take note of the wiring diagram thats on it. Almost all relays have a wiring diagram that will tell you what pins do what.
Break out the relay and find the two pins for the coil. You will need to either pull out a pin from the Fic universal harness or you'll need to grab the 24 gauge wire. Take one end of that wire and crimp on a female spade connector. Heat shrink the wire and connector so nothing can make contact with it from the sides. Plug this wire into one of the pins for the coil on the relay. On my relay this pin is labeled 85.
Attachment 97214
Take the other end of that wire and crimp on a molex micro-fit 3.0 terminal. If using a wire and terminal pulled from the fic universal harness then no need for crimping a molex terminal on.
Now we need to find pin 16 on the 24 pin connector, on my harness pin 16 is on the top row right next to the green wire.
Attachment 97215
If still unsure of which pin look through your fic wiring instructions thats on your install CD, it will have a complete pin-out for both connectors that plug into the fic.
Now take that wire we were just dealing with and push it into pin 16 of the 24 pin connector.
It should look like this
Attachment 97216
Make sure you have pushed it in as far as the others, if it doesnt stay firm in the connector or isnt pushed in far enough you will not have proper contact.
Now move to the one pin for the coil of the relay thats left. Its labeled 86 on my relay. This is were we are going to bring a ground to that will come from the limit switch that will be mounted under the clutch pedal so make sure you cut yourself enough wire to do so. It will roughly take about 10ft of wire to be on the safe side.
Unroll some 14 gauge wire for this and crimp on a female spade connector. Heat shrink it to be safe after its been crimped, plug it into the relay.
Next we will need two long runs of wire roughly 15ft long each. Thes will go from relay to engine bay.
Crimp on one female connector per wire and heat shrink them.
One will be pluged into the common terminal of the relay, on my relay its labeled 30. The other wire needs to be pluged into the relay pin thats a "normally closed" contact. This pin is labeled 87a on my relay.
So far everything should start looking like this
Attachment 97217
We are almost done with the relay, just need to tape it up to the Fic pnp harness (or mount it someplace in the glove box later)
Attachment 97218
Attachment 97219
Attachment 97220
Now we need to splice into the wire thats connected to pin 30 on my relay with another 14 gauge wire thats roughly 5ft long depending on where you tap into. this is one is for the bypass switch (12 volt toggle switch) so you can activate or deactivate the 2 step. Then you will need to take another 5ft long piece of wire and tap into the wire coming from pin 87a on my relay. This too is for the bypass switch. I suggest to make your connections by peeling back a little insulation on the two wires coming from the relay and soldering each bypass wire but a tap (suitcase) connector could be used.
Attachment 97221
Your just about done with the pre-wire just need to tape up or heat shrink the wires to keep them neat and together.

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Wiring

Now that the harness is ready its time to run the wires through the glove box. You can use a coat hanger to fish the wire through to the driverside floor board if it helps. I had the test wires already ther so i used them to pull in the new wires.
Attachment 97222
Attachment 97223
Attachment 97224
Now we are going to drop off the two wires for the bypass switch and the ground at the driver-side floor board, then take the two wires connected to pin 30 & 87a and run them through the fire wall. You can run them through the large grommet located above the pedals. Again I used my test wires to help pull them through the fire wall.
Attachment 97225
Attachment 97226
You will need to pull them all the way to the fuse box in the drivers side of the engine bay.
Attachment 97227
Pop the cover off of the fuse box.
Attachment 97228
Thes two connectors will need to be disconnected for the moment.
Attachment 97229
Attachment 97230
Disconnect battery.
There are two tabs that hold in the small portion of the fuse box that will need to be pulled back to release it. This is where the flat head screw driver comes into play. Hold the tab back with the flat head and gently pull up on the small section. Keep holding it up while you swap over to the other tab and do the same thing.
Attachment 97231
Attachment 97232
Pull out the small section of the fuse box and place it out of the way.
next unplug the brown cube relay.

Attachment 97233
There are three tabs on the large portion of the fuse box, hold those back to be able to pull the large portion up.

Attachment 97234
Attachment 97235
Attachment 97236
Pull up that portion and lean it back so you can see the wires under the micro fuses.
Attachment 97237
There is a black wire we need to get to that is under the blue 15 amp fuse.
Attachment 97238
Find that wire and gently pull a little slack towards you, then cut the wire in half but leave enough to work with. You will be dealing with both halves of this wire.
Attachment 97239
Attachment 97240
Now have a sip of coffee while your soldering iron heats up.
Attachment 97241
Take one of the wires you pulled into the engine bay (doesnt matter which one) and solder it to one of the wires you just cut.
It was cold so was kinda hard to heat the solder up with this cheap iron i have.
Attachment 97242
The next step is optional but is good to have done if you ever get rid of the fic or just dont want the 2 step anymore.
Crimp on a female spade connector to the two newly soldered wires and heat shrink over the hole deal.
Attachment 97243
Attachment 97244
Attachment 97245
Solder the two remaining wires together and crimp on a male connector. Heat shrink the connection and terminal.
Now stuff the wires down in the fuse box and close everything up. Don't forget to put those two connectors we unplugged back in their homes.
Now we can move on over to the driver side floorboard.
Pull open the kick panel and pop out a switch blank from the dash.
Attachment 97246
Attachment 97247
Run your bypass wires up and out of the dash and zip tie them as you go. Also would be a good time to zip tie the other wires out of the way that we ran earlier.
Connect the wires to the toggle switch (spst) and if needed use shrink tube to cover the connections.
Attachment 97248
Attachment 97249
Attachment 97250
Now here comes the hard part of the whole thing, mounting the limit switch (micro switch). You can either use velcro tape (double sided tape even) and zipties togather to accomplish this or a 1"-1 1/4" thin self taping sheet metal screw. If using the screw then this is of course were the mini drill comes into play.
I used a the screw.
Attachment 97251
It needs to be mounted so when the pedal goes down it trips the switch.
Now you need a good ground, I used a short piece of wire and crimped a loop on one end and a female spade connector on the other, then I took the loop end to the closest stud. After i pluged in the spade end to the common pin on the limit switch (micro switch).
Attachment 97252
Attachment 97253
Remember that ground we wired up to the relay that we dropped off in the floorboard, yep we need to route it to the "normally open" pin on the limit switch. Zip tie it as you go.

Feel free to check all your connections with a multi-meter. Also there are other ways of doing this so use your imagination.

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The Magic
(set up)

Here we are in the home stretch!!!
Plug in the fic harness, plug in fic, plug in usb to fic, plug in usb to laptop.
Open up the fic program
Click file (on the top tool bar), click on open, click on your current map and click open.
Click on ecu (tool bar at the top) and click connect.
Click on set-up, scroll down to system and click it.
Attachment 97254
This screen will pop up
Attachment 97255
Look at the lower right hand corner of the system screen, you will see a box labeled "Switched 12Vdc".
Set all the parameters in that box to zero.
Attachment 97256
Set the rpm on to desired number and the rpm off to desired number.
On the latest vid i set mine to 4000rpm on and 4000rpm off

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The Reward

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...h_MVI_1801.jpg

just some after thoughts.
If I were to replace my exhaust (which it will get replaced soon) and get rid of the cats (which they will go by by after turbo install) you would prolly have the loud poping and fire balls that are more common to 2step launch control units.

also if anyone is having trouble finding the parts i listed or would like to have their harness prewired pm me