are you all running ti before maf or after? reason I ask is the following...

catch can, if made properlly (baffled) can catch most oil vapors and therefore you won't have stuff getting into your MAF inlet. BUT if you get like a greddy catch can, or most of the others, which are not baffled, oil can pass through the hoses (put through clear hoses and just watch and see) and therefore get into the MAF, causing it to get gummed up and then into the turbo, gumming it up.

while exhaust scavenging isn't good for emissions, if you have a good catchcan (Moroso) you can run an intake hose and then an output to a downpipe for it to pull out of the car without any risk of vapors getting into the intake.

 

gwa....im still lost scion dad pm me and put it in petey terms for me!

 

Some guy in the vette forum.

 

Yeah, I posted your info on top and you hooked me into the Moroso exhaust scavenger idea a while ago. I agree going before the MAF will probably cause problems down the road. But after the MAF with a good catch can would be ok I think. I'm running out of room on my up front exhaust for another bung.

Between the 2nd 02 sensor, dump tube pipe routing and the EGT probe...

 

No problem....look at it this way.

On the back left side of the valve cover, there is a tube running out down to the intake manifold (PCV valce to hose). If you tried to blow into this tube - towards the valve cover, there is a check ball in there that prevents the air from going in. But if you sucked on it, you would pull nasty fumes out. The intake manifold, before boost occurs, has a vacuum (sucking) that pull the fumes out of the valve cover.

When boost is applied, the intake manifold is now pressurized....trying to push air back into the PCV tube. Now if the PCV valve fails....you just pressurized the top half of your engine. Not good. ALong with that, any fumes and blow by (you will get some under normal operation) has no place to go because the boost has pushed against the check ball and not sucking the fumes out.

I don't see the Supercharger instructions deal with this...since it appears to be very little boost, but they do use the right side valve that goes to the intake pipe to provide some venting.

 

i think it would be fine to go after MAF if you get a moroso can or atleast stuff some other can with alot of steel wool. you could vent it to the atmosphere, but then there really isn't anything pulling the blow-by out, its just if there is pressure, it will come out, aka filters at the tubes.

 

I agree, I think it is something that needs to be addressed even with this small of boost. Would you agree?

 

i always say address it, as you have to remember that crankcase ventilation prevents the 'mushroom' effect that can happen under your pistons and rings. but I'm sure that toyotoa didn't do anything with the SC'er as well they have to make it CARB legal, so they suck up the valve cover ventilation into the intake and pull out the gases into the intake as they tune the car safe enough, so they don't worry about oil vapors. I know honda never cared about it, but they did put a factory catchcan onto the back of thier engines to help with crankcase issues. on a honda there is a factory 'black box, which has the PCV valve connected to the top of it. crankcase is vented through a large port in the block into the black case, where it is baffled and excess oil returns to the pan and ventilation goes to the PCV and into the intake, along with a second ventilation from the valve cover to the intake pipe.

 

I think the catch can's are a necessity for turbo'd/sc cars... now wouldn't it be best for all those out there with Idle problems and runnin rich because the ecu is reading the MAF and thinking the motor needs more fuel to convert to MAP??? How hard would this be to do? I believe with the conversion the ecu wont try and save the motor by dumping a lot of fuel, at least that is what I have read... very informative post for everyone out there...

Stephen

 

so can anyone help me out by answering my questions?

My current setup is i have filters on the two hoses one that use to go to the intake and on the second one that use to go to the intake manifold. Iam ok with this setup right? (smell isnt too great, but after seeing what was going into my engine i said noway am i letting this get in)

now question 2 when I turbo is this going to cause me a problem? Since i just have vilters it just vents to the atmosphere but you said that boost will pressure the pcv so it wont be able to do that.

Also ZPI i would be very happy if you made something that I could use like you said a catch can set up or so.

 

question 1: filter on the valve cover where it used to go to intake is fine. the second, i assume its one that went to a PCV valve. you did block off the intake port through right? the one on the intake manifold, so the engine isn't getting unmetered air, i assume you did or it would idle like poo.

i'd assume you won't have problems with turbo as right now your PCV is effectively blocked, there is never a draw on the system so you are hoping the pressure forces the PCV open. for the moment i'd keep your pcv setup hooked up, until you went FI.

 

Your current setup does not help "pull" the gasses out. Buy using either the intake manifold and intake pipe (factory setup for both hoses) you get a vacuum to pull the gasses out.

For your 2nd question, since you have the intake manifold tube that goes to the PCV valve disconnected, when you get a turbo, the intake manifold gets pressurized to your boost level, but you have the tube disconnected so it cant pressurize the front of the PCV valve....so you are fine.

Normally, the gasses get sucked from the valve cover TO the intake manifold. With the intake pressurized by boost, this is prevented from sucking the gasses out because the pressurized air pushes instead of vacuum suck.

 

I see. So my current setup is hurting me on because it doesnt get any vacume?and all that stuff that use to go to my intake manifold is getting stuck in the cylinders ? or is it just not sucking them out as much but its still ok? Id rather not hurt the car if this isnt any better then the stock setup.

*hehe the idling yea ofcourse i blocked it. When my electric tape fell off it didnt just idle bad if my car would go below 2000 rpm it would stall. Happend while i was driving to r&s strauss for a better solution.

So from what ive read i need something before the filter that would suck the air out? correct? Maybe some kind of catch can that would do that and then i can vent the rest to the atmosphere.

 

i wouldn't say its hurting it, just that you are venting to atmosphere currently and still have the PCV in place. I'd hook the PCV back up and if you are worried about crap getting into your intake, just buy a catchcan and run it between the PCV and intake manifold.

 

Are any of these set-up s really that necesary? Ive seen turbod cars go as high as 140k with no problems. most common problem Ive known about is carbon build up but not
to the extreme of detonation.

 

nothing is necessary, but crankcase blow by helps with putting carbon into the engine. then again, alot of things aren't necessary but we all do it.

 

The 2.4L GM motor does something very similar. My cav had a little black box on the front of the block that had baffles to catch oil and let it drain into the pan, then a pipe up to the intake manifold, which I then disconnected (aftermarket intake) and connected to a breather filter. Also, there was a pipe connected to the top of the engine (timing cover) to take care of gases that rose and collected up high.

I would be interested in a small catch-can setup for when I get my SC. (for ZPI).

 

yea is someone came up with something i would just on it when i get my sc.

 

lets all get a thread going on sigining up for people who would be intersted in zpi creating something for this?

 

Excellent idea....but you better do it...I think people think I work for them or something as it is.