I posted this question at the AEM forum but it might be a month before I get a reply there, so... does anyone know how many amps the FIC/6 draws? I'm trying to decide where to tap the +12V FIC pwr from.

I tapped it off a 10A fused "EFI no.2" in the fuse panel and got a P0031 code for "O2 sensor heater circuit low" so it must draw a few amps at least.

 

Id have to say 5-10 amps!

You got it working now buddy? Let me know if you need a basemap!

 

if you would have asked earlier i could have grabbed out my amp probe and checked for ya on a customers car....

 

I would imagine it's pretty low.

 

if you didnt blow that 10amp fuse then its not over 10amps for sure. fuse isnt a current limiting device like a resistor.

 

the code you threw sounds like something to do with the 02 map...just for giggles try setting the 02 map to voltage and anything under 14psia place 3.2 into the 02 map....give it a shot and see what happens.

 

The only way I could see it drawing 10A is if it was sending the full 6A off the VTEC 12V output to power something else. Many people are powering it piggybacked off some pretty low current circuits but I want to be sure that it has enough current available at peak load to avoid the kind of flaky things that computers do with flaky power supplies.

It works fine powered off the battery but I need a permanent ign switched solution. Thanks for the base map offer. You have anything close for a AT '08 XB with a Treadstone mani, Precision 5031E, 2.5" DP into stock 2.25-2.5" exhaust with the mid-cat in place, TRD axle-back, 440cc injectors, 7psi WG spring running 93 octane pump? I already have a bunch of base maps that are so far off from my setup that it's easier to start from scratch.

 

The thing is, without changing anything in the O2 map, it only threw that code when powered off EFI no.2 and it came up immediately. When powered from EFI no.1, IG2 no.2 or the battery I don't get that code. Plus that code is only for the heater circuit, not the O2 signal.

 

^^ yeah i see what your saying...hmmm

 

Battery WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 GRAY (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Gray at steering coloum would be best bet!

 

Whats your email ;)

 

Thanks! frederick_pohl@yahoo.com

 

chck email

 

Nothing there.

Edit: Okay, I searched a bit and found it. Buried in my inbox because it was dated Monday, January 6, 2003??? Are you a time traveler? LOL

Thanks ElevationTC!

 

A fuse IS a current limiting device Chris. A fuse prevents short circuits when you pull too much current through the system and fails open preventing any damage. Resistors are both current limiting and voltage limiting devices, dependent on how they are connected (in series or parallel). I doubt the FIC pulls more than an amp or two though, so there shouldn't be any reason the fuse is blown.

 

Update: I spoke with AEM tech support and they weren't certain of the FIC's max current draw but suggested that it should only be ~2A excluding the 12V switched output. Piggybacking FIC pwr off other ECU +12V circuits should be fine. However the FIC's 12V output is rated for up to 6A so be careful what you power with that output if piggybacked off existing circuits. E.g., if I wanted to power my UEGO off the FIC output, I would pwr the FIC off the battery using an ign switched relay. Something like a WMI relay should be fine either way.

I still find it a little odd that when I powered my ~2A FIC off the 'EFI No.2' 10A fused circuit, I got a P0031 code immediately and repeatedly for "O2/AF sensor heater control circuit low". No problem though, I just tapped FIC pwr elsewhere.

 

like i said its not a current limiting device "like" a resistor were as a fuse breaks the circuit. Also a fuse is listed as an overcurrent protection device not current limiting device in most cases...kev your reading too deep into it...lol

but yes text book does define both as current limiting