theregulator

Okay... so here is a quick run down...

I have an 07 auto tc with a greddy turbo kit. after about 3 months of boost the tranny started to slip and eventually lost 3rd and 4th altogether.

I took it to my shop and had them order me up a transmission with about 5k miles on it to swap out. Few days later the tranny is in, it gets replaced and I take it for a drive. Everything seems okay shifts are a little hard but otherwise all good. When I get back we decide to turn the boost down so I can get a little bit more life out of this tranny. Again, I take it for another lap, running fine and shifting fine. I get back let him know its all good, pay for the work, and I'm on my way. I get about 1/2 mile away from the shop and I lose 2,3 and 4. I had to get to work so I let my mechanic know I would bring it back when I get off work. A few hours pass as I finish work and head back to the shop, this time 1-2-3 are there but 4 seems shaky like it wants to engage but doesn't know how. We drop the pan and check fluid and everything seems okay. I try to leave and this time no reverse and 2-3 only on the drive home. We decide to order another tranny.

About a week of driving with 2-3 only the SECOND tranny is in, this one having about 6k miles. I take it in 2 days ago and got it back yesterday, same problems but this tranny only giving me 1st gear. We've come to the conclusion that it is not the tranny anymore and this is where i am stuck.


Has anyone else replaced an auto transmission? Does toyota have to flash it?

Could the greddy emanage have something to do with the auto tranny computer not telling it to shift?

I'm thinking of taking out the emanage and injectors and plugging stock computer and injectors in and seeing what happens. Think that will help?

I got like a million questions and don't know where to look for answers... Please help

PeArLwHiTe07tC

iTrader: (2)

do u know what year the tranny u got came out of by chance? the tc's have 2 diff tranny part #'s, altho they are the same tranny code. im not sure if they may be diff sensors on the trannys or not. if thats the case it is possible that the ecu and sensors can be conflicting w each other.

theregulator

i believe 08 and 06... would the dealership be able to scan it and see if they are communicating?

PeArLwHiTe07tC

iTrader: (2)

are u throwin any codes at all? i can tell ya right now that theres 6 diff ecu part numbers depending on the production date. the 08 ecu is diff from some of the 07's based on production date. and the tranny and ecu are different from 06-07. id say dbl check for any codes that it may have and start there to see if its having difficulty recognizing the sensors. idk man, this is why i drive 5spd. lol...i dont know how to drive auto.

theregulator

i just checked and CEL is on.. could be my cat which throws a CEL but not positive.. just have to get enough ***** up to drive it 6 miles to the shop with only 1st gear lol...

PeArLwHiTe07tC

iTrader: (2)

id say get the codes, see if any tranny codes pop up and report back.

r2d2michael

i think the tranny is probly ok when you put it in but the ecu is telling it to shift at the wrong points and messing up the gears.

this was a issue in 2001 rav 4 where the ecu "failed" in some way and would tell the tranny to shift wronge. once the ecu faild it would destory the tanny with it.

is your emanage hard wired or pug n play? you could have a probling with some wires and sending a high voltage to the ecu in some way that will fry it.

just a thought, you might want to check all the wires and the voltages in the wire to make sure your not sendiing 12+ volts to a pin that can only handle 3 vdc.

VINC3TC1

iTrader: (1)

Quick question please how much power were you putting down and how much PSI were you running. Also did you have a trans cooler and were you running a P2P harness or hard wired in.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely! The E-Mangle handles fuel tuning by modifying the MAF signal that the ECU/TCU relies on heavily to determine engine load and shift points. I have a boosted 08 A/T XB and had some shifting issues with the FIC and much worse with the APR X1. The same 48k miles A/T shifts perfectly without a piggyhack and 440cc injs running 6psi from a T3/T04E.

You should have a good external ATF cooler and IMO it's best to bypass the radiator ATF pre-heater/cooler unless you live in a very cold location.

theregulator

1. 240fwhp 253fwtq
2. peaks at 9.84psi down to 8.38psi
3. b&m 13000btu tranny cooler
4. boomslang pnp

AWESOME! thats exactly my thoughts but apparently because im not a mechanic nobody wants to listen. the only code it threw the first time..... MAF performance...... ..... .... but noone wants to listen to the little guy lol.... i even had my buddy whose shop it is call our tuner to double check and he said there should b no problem having the ultimate plugged in with installing a new tranny.

i have a b&m 13000btu tranny cooler and i live in very HOT weather. i live in phoenix arizona and as i type this it is 2:15pm and 108 degrees... this is a nice day lol....

so whats the solve? should i put stock injectors back in and unplug emanage and let it "learn"?

which brings me to another question. does the TCM have to "learn" my driving patterns before i can drive it normally? during the first tranny install, my mechanic took it next door to his buddys transmission shop and he was told there that the transmission must "learn" to shift before you can drive it hard. i was instructed to drive drive it like a grandma for 2-3 days so it could "learn". that obviously didnt work but is there any truth to that?

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

What size inj's are you running? The larger they are the farther off the ecu calculated load will be due to the E-Manage fuel tune. I think there's a reason Greddy chose 440cc for their turbo kit. 440cc is already 20% larger and 550cc is almost 50%. That's a lot of load error when you reduce the MAF readings that much.

I don't think installing the stock inj's or unplugging the E-Manage will help in the long term. Although you could try this to see if your trans is still good and verify the theory. Just be careful to stay out of boost if you do this. Ultimately I think you'd be much better off with something like the FIC instead of the E-manage. The FIC can pass a correct MAF signal to the ECU so it sees the actual load and knows better when and how to shift. Any piggy that works by reducing the MAF signal to compensate for larger inj's won't work as well with a A/T.

David Phillips of APR told me that they once experimented with modifying ECU load to acheive firmer shifts from a Tacoma. He said that it worked very well and the trans was chirping tires into 2nd and 3rd. However he also said that the trans blew up during a single dyno session (3rd pull?). He called someone he knew at Toyota and was told that the trans was designed to shift more firmly during low load and softer during high load. The Toyota tech said that the trans is designed to handle to slip when shifting under high load but not the shock of sudden engagement.

How did your trans shift when it was still working? Were the shifts firmer, softer or the same as stock? If firmer I hope your trans isn't messed up.

As for TCU learning, yes it does. However I don't know to what degree. Driving normally for the first few days and not hammering it sounds like a very good idea. First you have to see if the E-manage is causing the shifting problems or if it already damaged the trans. Good luck.

theregulator

725cc.. lol i freaked out when he told me he was putting in 725s but he saw no problem with it. the trans shifted like stock pretty much untill i started to notice slip. altogether it ran like a champ when i had my original tranny. spanked a couple modded WRXs(hate them lol) shifting fine, pulling fine. no knocks or pings. never had it stall or run hot. it was solid to me i mean i knew i would eventually have to put new trannys in but i didnt expect any issues with a swap.

i really feel like what your saying is correct i just dont understand how it communicated fine before the swap but not with this new one. what do i have to reset? what do i have to get re tuned? should i have my tuner re tune it? how do i get the MAF to communicate with the emanage like it was with original tranny?


uuugh i miss boooooooooooooost

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm... the fact that your original trans worked fine for 3 months with this same setup is puzzling. I can see how the trans might start off okay and as the ECU adapts to the wrong MAF readings it screws up the shifting. Your problem may very well be something else. Maybe check with the dealer and see if the ECU needs a flash or reset for a trans swap. I really don't know.

As far as the tune goes, the problem is how the E-Manage handles fuel tuning. It basically reduces the MAS signal telling the ECU that less air is entering the engine than actual. This compensates for the greatly increased fuel delivery from the 95% bigger inj's. The ECU thinks the engine is drawing in roughly half the air it really is and it affects calculated load, ign timing and shifting (A/T). The reason I suggested the FIC is that the FIC handles fuel tuning differently. Instead of simply modifiying the MAF signal, telling the ECU to add less fuel, it takes over injector driving duties letting the unmodifed MAF pass to the ECU. With the FIC it's possible to tune so that the ECU sees only accurate data from all of it's sensors. This should work much better with a A/T. It's not nearly as important with a M/T since only ign timing is affected and that can be re-tuned. The TCU can not be tuned, AFAIK.

You might want to call IPT and/or Level Ten and ask those guys about this. They may just try to sell you a trans build but they might also offer some more immediate assistance.

You could also try installing your stock inj's, a 4psi WG spring, disconnect the E-manage and reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery. If it shifts fine, at least you'll know that the trans is okay and the problem is elsewhere. Best of luck to ya.

theregulator

im at my mechanics right now....

p0746 pressure control solenoid a
p0776 pressure control solenoid b

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

http://tijil.org/Scion_Docs/05_tC_Sh...T)/cip0746.pdf

http://tijil.org/Scion_Docs/05_tC_Sh...T)/cip0776.pdf

I hope this helps.

theregulator

yup im all over it. took it to toyota and they ran the active test on it i guess and told me they got 1-4 to work but still no reverse and needed another day to diagnose it. i need my car for work so itll b a few weeks till i have a day off to leave it with them. but when i picked up the car it still only has 1-2 with no reverse. ill post any updates.

Frizz

I know your problem.

You have an boosted automatic tC... manual swap is the fix.