Ideas for better cooling
#62
My mishimoto fan shroud didn't have plugs on them. I had to splice in. A simple quick connection test showed which is pull and which is push. I set both to pull and never had a problem. I've had intake temps over 175 degrees sitting in FL traffic this summer and my water temp was still 195 or less. Switch the wires the other way around on your passenger side fan and be done with it. Too easy.
#63
yeah, i don't do my work unsupervised, a friend and i will swap the wires on monday so i don't short something out.
i swapped the plugs tonight which ofcourse swapped the push and pull. now i have the driverside pushing less warm air from the cold side of the turbo through the radiator, and the passenger side one pulling in the cold air from outside. should make it work marginally better.
i swapped the plugs tonight which ofcourse swapped the push and pull. now i have the driverside pushing less warm air from the cold side of the turbo through the radiator, and the passenger side one pulling in the cold air from outside. should make it work marginally better.
#64
If your worried about shorting something out, just disconnect the battery while doing this. Its a simple thing to do. All you have to do is pop the pins out of the plug, swap places, and pop them back in. Whala problem solved. I kno its that easy because Ive had to do it on a honda before with the same problem you were having. Half core radiator with 1 fan pushing hot air thru the radiator does not do anything to cool the coolant.
#65
Is it really that hard to just splice behind the harness and solder the two wire leads together? This way you maintain your factory harness and can reverse polarity of whichever fan you like. Takes 5 mins. I'd be willing to blow a fuse before a head gasket anyday.
#66
having the fans wired to a switch and running them on all the time wouldnt cause the car to over cool the coolant?
i was thinking of running 2 extra pusher fans on the front side of the a/c condenser and having those set up to a switch i could turn on when im in traffic or extened idle...which is when my set up starts to heat up.
i was thinking of running 2 extra pusher fans on the front side of the a/c condenser and having those set up to a switch i could turn on when im in traffic or extened idle...which is when my set up starts to heat up.
#67
having the fans wired to a switch and running them on all the time wouldnt cause the car to over cool the coolant?
i was thinking of running 2 extra pusher fans on the front side of the a/c condenser and having those set up to a switch i could turn on when im in traffic or extened idle...which is when my set up starts to heat up.
i was thinking of running 2 extra pusher fans on the front side of the a/c condenser and having those set up to a switch i could turn on when im in traffic or extened idle...which is when my set up starts to heat up.
#68
Two smaller fans wired to a switch wouldn't hurt your A/C cooling abilities while sitting still! But, that's why your fans come on when you turn on the A/C, it moves air past the condenser so it doesn't heat soak as much. You can run your car as low as 170 degrees and be fine. Any lower and you may run into poor fuel economy issues amongst other things like spark plug and sensor wear. It'll want to stay in "warm up" mode and run richer. You may be able to go a little cooler but I haven't tried so I don't know for sure.
#69
the zpi mani makes it a pain to get the piping from the outlet since the turbo cant clock all the way down my outlet faces almost directly at the radiator its mm from my radiator lol. so i had to ditch the stock fans....but i know on hot days here in san antonio its humid and supa hot! i was waiting in a drive though and my water temps hit the 3rd notch on my temp gauge.
im going to just order those other 2 fans to put on the ac condensor then.
im going to just order those other 2 fans to put on the ac condensor then.
#71
well, p-tuning feels that the problem is the mishamoto fan shroud. because it is so flat. at speed, the car is relying on the fans to let air through. so they're changing them to the SPAL fans they use with their own kit instead. hopefully now i'll be able to use a/c now! whoo!
#72
This is true, but it's also true that most anyone who has a decent offering for the tC sells them as well. Or worse the Mishimoto.
However, I tell it like it is and I'm not going to recommend something I don't think will help a customer, but if you really gotta have it, I won't not sell it to you either.
These cars are designed to operate at temperatures around 200*F. Toyota and other manufactures do this for a reason, more heat in the engine = better combustion and thus better fuel economy.
A lower temp thermostat might help lower the over all temps but then again sometimes they just stay open longer and don't give the coolant enough time in the radiator to disapate the heat and then they start cycling open and closed more. Your best bet is a higher pressure rad cap and good fans.
However, I tell it like it is and I'm not going to recommend something I don't think will help a customer, but if you really gotta have it, I won't not sell it to you either.
alright, so did some observations just now when i got home from work without letting the car cool off.
while sitting idle in the driveway with the hood shut and no a/c or fans on, but the dial set to max heat, the water temp would get up to 202 degrees, fans would come on and temps would go 204 and then down to 198 where the fan would shut off.
intake air temperatures however would continue to clime from about 15 degrees above ambient (76 degrees) to an astounding 147 degrees!
while the fans were on, i went and looked at the front of the car, my driverside grill is cool to the touch, while my passenger side grill is very hot, almost burning so.
so i popped open the grill, grabbed a long blade of grass and held it up to the fans. the driverside fan is pulling cool air from outside the engine compartment into the car, while the passenger side fan is blowing HOT air from the hotside of the turbo and downpipe through the radiator stupidly heating the coolant back up before going back into the engine. the plugs are one way, so i'm not sure how the polarity could be reversed unless we swap the wires.
anyway, then i let it idle with the hood completely open. water temps got down to 170 or so, never going over 180. and then the intake air temps dropped to 119. which is pretty good since the car was heat soaked. so a better vented hood seems like a good idea since the kaminari hood vent is just right over the radiator, and not the manifold and such.
while sitting idle in the driveway with the hood shut and no a/c or fans on, but the dial set to max heat, the water temp would get up to 202 degrees, fans would come on and temps would go 204 and then down to 198 where the fan would shut off.
intake air temperatures however would continue to clime from about 15 degrees above ambient (76 degrees) to an astounding 147 degrees!
while the fans were on, i went and looked at the front of the car, my driverside grill is cool to the touch, while my passenger side grill is very hot, almost burning so.
so i popped open the grill, grabbed a long blade of grass and held it up to the fans. the driverside fan is pulling cool air from outside the engine compartment into the car, while the passenger side fan is blowing HOT air from the hotside of the turbo and downpipe through the radiator stupidly heating the coolant back up before going back into the engine. the plugs are one way, so i'm not sure how the polarity could be reversed unless we swap the wires.
anyway, then i let it idle with the hood completely open. water temps got down to 170 or so, never going over 180. and then the intake air temps dropped to 119. which is pretty good since the car was heat soaked. so a better vented hood seems like a good idea since the kaminari hood vent is just right over the radiator, and not the manifold and such.
A lower temp thermostat might help lower the over all temps but then again sometimes they just stay open longer and don't give the coolant enough time in the radiator to disapate the heat and then they start cycling open and closed more. Your best bet is a higher pressure rad cap and good fans.
#73
IMO in terms of cooling Mishimoto=Koyo > stock radiator.. now the problem is fans and probably when they turn on or off or how they are setup. Stock radiator did overheating for me, ambient 100F+watercooled turbo.. added aftermarket rad and fans, problem fixed.. Huge huge difference in coolant temp, i check my scangauge as frequent as my speedometer and im gonna say it was well worth it.
#74
alright, so the problem appears to be solved now.
the solution was removing the mishamoto fan shroud and putting a slip SPAL fan on each side of the radiator like the ones that come with p-tuning's kit.
driving home from p-tuning 70 mph with the a/c full blast, water temps stayed solid at 190 degrees. then when i hit some stop and go traffic that was truely miserable, water temp worked up to 215 degrees, but got down again once i picked up speed.
it appears that the shroud was just too restrictive with air flow at speed and the radiator was dependant solely on the air flow through the shroud which wasn't enough.
the solution was removing the mishamoto fan shroud and putting a slip SPAL fan on each side of the radiator like the ones that come with p-tuning's kit.
driving home from p-tuning 70 mph with the a/c full blast, water temps stayed solid at 190 degrees. then when i hit some stop and go traffic that was truely miserable, water temp worked up to 215 degrees, but got down again once i picked up speed.
it appears that the shroud was just too restrictive with air flow at speed and the radiator was dependant solely on the air flow through the shroud which wasn't enough.
#76
I still don't get why you are having overheating issues. I have none whatsoever. It NEVER gets over 200 degrees and I have the Mishimoto shroud and fans on a turbonetics kit. I also live in FL and it's been especially hot this summer. Cruising it sits at 185. A/C doesn't make any difference for my cars temps.
#79
drax something is still doesnt seem right.. you live on 80s-90s summer weather, you shouldnt have over 210 on your setup at least.. below 90F, my temps are well below 190F. 175-182 most of the time while driving
#80
well, it is as good as it is going to get for now. so long as it isn't melting or boiling over, i'm good.
also, temps here are in the 90's to 105, MD is much father north than you ACE, but we get hot summers here too.
we also get VERY humid which also contributes to the heat soaking.
i'll have to get another scangauge and start looking at what other cars register sometime.
also, temps here are in the 90's to 105, MD is much father north than you ACE, but we get hot summers here too.
we also get VERY humid which also contributes to the heat soaking.
i'll have to get another scangauge and start looking at what other cars register sometime.