Jessicas comp 67mm DYNO VID / .63ar TBB dyno 527 WHP DEZOD KIT, AEM EMS
Regardless of what kit, what turbo, anything..........I commend you Justin for taking the time, effort and initiative to take this car to a new level. Hats off!!!!
Self built and self tuned, even more kudos man. Keep it up!
Self built and self tuned, even more kudos man. Keep it up!
i think someone along the line helped him with tuning.. That tune looks way to good.
My good man ElevationTC!! Whats up man, Elevation was there for me when I first got the aem on the car and he had already had experience with it, and helped me get on my feet with a good base map. He also helped smooth my idle somewhat, and a few other things when I was on the 550's. I have always been experienced with Motec, FAST, Haltech software, Even though 2 of my supras have aem, I only knew basic and borderline functions back then. Since then I have mastered it (well not mastered) lol and got my blending down pat and even learned how to do VVTi pretty well.
I tell you, the worst part: switching from the 550's to 700's wasnt bad Elevation, I still had quite a few hours of tuning, but the 700-1000's!!! WOW.. Im still working on it, but it is coming out well. start up is good now, and street driving and cruising I have PERFECT without O2 feedback.
Im so glad my supras dont have to worry about the vvti!

Justin Nenni from tuning concepts has showed me alot!
BTW call me about 6:30, I see where you called... I was working, Ill be at work, but have time to talk for a min.
Just take your time man!! If you dont really want to do it or think you cant, or are time pressed then send it to a good shop like Dezod/ptuning or buy one of there custom shortblock setups, its a good deal.
Best thing is to have a nice and clean work area. VERY GOOD ENGINE BUILDING TOOLS are a MUST! make sure to have a good piston ring compressor, good valve spring compressor(make sure it fits your head well) I use lucas heavy oil stabilizer as assembly lube and always have. Ive done alot of motors now, and thats what I was tought to use by my cousin(pro engine builder NHRA,IHRA).
when doing the head its actaully very easy, I started with a new head, or strip yours and clean it up, take your time, make sure you install the valve seals correctly, I always use a bit of lube to install them to the head, and make sure you lube the vale seal barrel. always make sure to ensure the valve locks are sitting the correct way before releasing the valve spring compressor tool. I always use a special heavy grease(non synthetic!) to hold the locks on well.
I also have a special tool I use to instal the wire locks on the piston. I take a flat head screw driver and cut and indention in the top edge of it
works like a charmalways measure your rod, main bearing clearances by hand! get a good set of mics to do ID and OD clearances. you can double check with plastigauge.
Last edited by tofast4u; Sep 16, 2009 at 11:26 PM.
well i already have a build block. with k1 rods (dunno how much they can hold), wiseco pistons, head and main studs from arp, deleted balance shaft and clevite bearings with stock sleeves. next will be the head when i get enough money to build it. but times is real tough at work so i dunno.
Also here is my 10k original mile 1200RWHP 98 supra cranked down to 26 psi on the same dyno the TC dynoed on. I had to turn it down as the dyno only goes to 850-900whp. It made 839 rwhp @ 26 PSI SPINING THE TIRES AS YOU CAN SEE. 4th gear pull 100-170 MPH 9200 RPM
Talk about fun to drive on 40+ psi! BAHAHA!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEcLM...eature=related
Talk about fun to drive on 40+ psi! BAHAHA!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEcLM...eature=related
well i already have a build block. with k1 rods (dunno how much they can hold), wiseco pistons, head and main studs from arp, deleted balance shaft and clevite bearings with stock sleeves. next will be the head when i get enough money to build it. but times is real tough at work so i dunno.
[quote=tofast4u;3299108]It is an important statement because what a lot of people forget is that a compressor works best with pressure differential. So if you have high back pressure on one side and nothing on the other the compressor is going to spool fast and hard, it will eventually taper off up top and choke when it has reached it's maximum volume but as far as a street setup goes it will get the job done for sure and as you have shown make some good power.
[quote=DezodDon;3301785]
It is an important statement because what a lot of people forget is that a compressor works best with pressure differential. So if you have high back pressure on one side and nothing on the other the compressor is going to spool fast and hard, it will eventually taper off up top and choke when it has reached it's maximum volume but as far as a street setup goes it will get the job done for sure and as you have shown make some good power.
Da man hath spoken
It is an important statement because what a lot of people forget is that a compressor works best with pressure differential. So if you have high back pressure on one side and nothing on the other the compressor is going to spool fast and hard, it will eventually taper off up top and choke when it has reached it's maximum volume but as far as a street setup goes it will get the job done for sure and as you have shown make some good power.
I probably missed it, but what exhaust are you running? And what size? 2.5" I think I read, but didn't know what exhaust/muffler/resonator setup. The reason I ask is because it sounds great! haha






