Is the back housing on that trans black stamped steel or cast aluminum like the rest of the trans? Every e351 ive ever seen its cast aluminum, every e350 ive ever seen its black stamped steel.

 

I'm going to have to double check but I'm pretty sure there identical the little components for shifting and the fork are a little different but that's it. I'll upload moar pictures

 

I bought a e351 transmission from a used auto parts place, it has e350(a)2 stamped on it. Best way to see what you have is just to google the vin number that's on the transmission housing. Mine ended up being just another tC transmission, I've been trying to get it straightened out with the place I ordered it from and its been 2 weeks now. (NEVER do business with General Auto Recycling out of rhode island) This is holding my build up. Good luck with yours

 

This is it. Hopefully.



Cant wait to finish this new build. I bought a motor mount and cherry picker off craigslist. I guess i'm going with one of Dezods pre-built engines. So i'll let you know how that goes.

 

FML!! How does this happen? This happened with my BC Springs and Manley valves, im never buying BC or Manley again.

 

I still have all my stock springs and valves, they're all perfectly fine but I'm wondering if they'll last with my built bottom I'm trying to reach 500hp, DD. Does anyone have a high power reliable car on a stock head?

 

I have a stock head except for BC Valvesprings/retainers. Rev'd to 7500rpm and over 600whp never had a single valve/head issue. Well other then overheating it and warping the head, but that doesnt really count.

 

BTW, the only way I know of to bend a valve is for it to hit the piston. What cams are you running? What rpm redline?

 

I'm still on the AEM FIC, so stock revs. I pulled the whole engine out and i can tell it smacked the SH*T out of my piston but i dont understand how this could of happened on Dual layer *TITANIUM* springs. I guess some kind of timing failure.

 

its safe to say , timing was off since you were making low power with a kit that was promised to make 304whp..

 

I've never heard of anyone making their advertised power. + I don't think you can push 300whp on the stock fuel pump. I'm sure it was the timing but i don't understand how it faulted. Given i don't tune my own car but i did build it all my self.

 

BC 272s.

 

I'm running 300 whp on the stock fuel pump

 

Plenty of people push 300whp on the stock fuel pump.

 

Damn, well i need a new dyno tuner.

Anyone have any leads on where I can find an ATI torque damper install tutorial? yes i looked..

 

possible your valve adjustment was to tight,, by the look at that burned valve,, its possible its been losing compression, ever since you build it, since you max out your fuel and didnt make the power promised by the company,, if you have low compression even in one cylinder you might not notice because the tune will compensate just by adding more fuel.. and adjust idle ... but in the long run things like this will eventually result in engine failed.. ive been using BC for over 4 years and running strong..

 

Close. I always do compresion tests when i change my plugs and oil. Thanks for the response tho.

Took apart my head to replace the valve and discovered everything was bone dry. Looks like my last tune had me running too lean and i burned up all the lube in the valve guides. So a valve got caught closing and smaked by a piston. All my exhaust valves were dry. Also i got my block back from Dezod yesterday, so this should be a great weekend for me.

Does anyone know how to install a torque damper? Do you just put it on and it figures it self out?

 

Long time ago when i was young I made 300whp/295wtq on 9 psi on stock everything using FIC.