we just finished turboing the car....it sounds sexy!!!

but it cranks, it starts, the when the rpm drops back down it shuts off....is there ANY REASON anyone can help on this?????

i have check'd all hoses....they are secure....now

only one wasnt secure....my friend put the oil line from the turbo to the oil pan and that hose popped right off, but i put it back and clamp'd it

any suggestions??? help??? ill post some pix and let me know is anything seems off
i just followed a diy and people's helpful hints and tips!

 

Lets see...why won't the car crank. I can name a lot of reasons but they all mean nothing without more info from you.

Are you running any type of management? Bigger injectors? Anything?

If you give it some gas will the RPM's drop and still die?

It could be running lean. Did check for any exhaust leaks. Do you have gauges? If so, what are they reading?

 

okay here is more info....
it does crank!
no bigger injectors YET i have them but the turbo does not require them. i will put them in within a couple of days
EMS i have that too, but same deal with the injectors
gauges same deal with the others...

i gas it and it still dies....

but i did notice something that may the potential problem!
my teammate....when he connected the downpipe to the exhaust (exhaust is the stock one) there is a 1-3mm gap between it and i do feel there is a leak there....could that be the problem???

 

So let me get things clear, you have injectors but you're not going to install them yet but you have them RIGHT NOW. You have a fuel management system which means you probably have a base map that you're not installing but you have them RIGHT NOW.

You have gauges RIGHT NOW that you are also not installing.

You see the 3 very LARGE problems there?

You want to run your boosted car on the stock ECU that is going to try to adjust you to stoich AFR (14.4-14.7:1) which is too lean for any appreciable boost application.

Yes, a 1-3mm gap in between our downpipe and spipe is going to leak out the butt and make you run lean but the spipe to the exhaust...not so much, it is after the O2 sensors. You might throw a code related to the cat.

Did you use the stock doughnut gasket and spring loaded bolts that came off the stock header?

Put your hand over your exhaust manifold do you feel air there as well? Did you use RTV to create a gasket around the exhaust manifold and exhaust manifold gasket before you put on the exhaust manifold?

Are you at least running 1 or 2 step colder spark plugs?

Are you throwing a CEL?

If you had your dang AFR gauge hooked up you can see if you are running lean which would case the RPMs to drop and the car would stall.

I hope you see where i'm going with this, I don't want to bash you but at the same time I do, i'm trying to save you from thousands of dollars of damage. You want to be too quick to start the car and see how it runs, what should be more important is doing the job right, it's going to be cheaper to do it right the first time than the 2nd.

 

the leak after the downpipe wont cause a big problem, im still confused on why u have injectors, ems and gauges and none of these are installed... lol, u have a zpi kit with no FMIC and no BOV, i would get the gauges installed asap hopefully u have a air fuel ratio gauge, without the readings u will be lost.

 

Because he likes starting threads and we can envision how the start of the next one will be if he doesn't get those installed ASAP.

 

is your maf air tight and the right way? i had alot of problems with that when i first installed my turbo. now mine is ghetto fab.

also check for boost leaks.

and install the rest of your ish.

 

just outta curiousity....what would would happen is the MAF was not connected...correctly

it is connected just wondering though

 

it would stall and die.

when i first connected my maf i had it the wrong way and it just cranked and died because it wasnt getting a reading. it looks like yours might be the wrong way like mine was but im not sure.

 

just trying to clarify, cause it might have not been too clear...

the car cranks and starts but once it idles for 1 second it shuts itself off

 

to be honest sounds EXACTLY the same problem!

 

try unbolting the maf and having someone hold it the other way then start it again

if you dont know what i mean ill get you a pic of mine

 

It's a dirty/messed up MAF.
My old stage 0 did the same thing the first time she tried to breathe

 

If it were the MAF you should be throwing a code.

Once again, i'm not seeing why you have done half of the install and trying to start the car.

 

are you sure you checked all the hoses, make sure you have the hose on the ack of the valve cover connected, the one above plug number 1. Sounds to me like you have a big vacuum leak.

 

They are right about MAF though, when mine broke my car would start then sputter and die but it would still idle, just really rough. It should still throw a CEL though. You need to check what the CEL mean bro before you mess something up.

 

Wtf kind of turbo doesn't require bigger injectors and why the hell would you ever try to start the car without everything finished.

In for the inevitable.

 

going to check the maf today

 

x2 on checking the MAF. My roomates S4 did the same thing when he had a bad MAF.

 

i worked directly on the turbo, dp, wg, etc...

my friend did the intake, maf, oil line, etc..


i was told today that the maf flange did not fit....and the maf has only 1/2 screw in it...so its half on and half off...i just checked and that was the case....now i ordered a new maf flange....could this be the reason?