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MAF plate?

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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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Default MAF plate?

anyone have a link to where i can pick up a maf plate? i want to make a blow through set up on my kit but i cant find a plate just a 3" housing through ATPturbo.com
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 04:58 PM
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You're in luck, I just recently had to do the same thing.

http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-Bl...MAF/Categories

KSTech also has an Ebay store. Look what K&N has hidden under "air filter accessories":

http://www.knfilters.com/filteraccess.htm

Make sure you get the correct flange. The MAF sensor changed in 06 or 07.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 05:05 PM
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26 bux isnt to bad at all
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 05:30 PM
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Syldrin what kit do you have?

Brett, did you already fabricate your blow through set up?
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 05:32 PM
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turbo toyotas simple kit.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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Oh nice! Where are you relocating the BOV and MAF?
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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just the maf
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 06:02 PM
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just moving it to behind the BoV so the car stops stalling and runs better.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Syldrin
26 bux isnt to bad at all
It's a steal with free shipping. One caveat tho... the one I bought (08262) is contoured for 3" tube. That worked perfectly for me but it won't fit as well on 2.5" tube. Nothing a good welder can't fix.

Originally Posted by XPRTc
Syldrin what kit do you have?

Brett, did you already fabricate your blow through set up?
I fabbed a new 3" draw-thru intake instead. I wanted to do blow-thru but the X1 can't compensate for non-oem MAF tube sizes. TCs should stick with 2.5" and XBs should stick with 3". At least that's true if you want the ECU reading accurate load (a must for AT). With a MT you could get away with it.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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i gotta get the 2.5inch one.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Syldrin
just moving it to behind the BoV so the car stops stalling and runs better.
Yeah just make sure you have it far enough away from each other and from bends, or you're going to see a lot of turbulence which will cause a nightmare.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ScionFred
It's a steal with free shipping. One caveat tho... the one I bought (08262) is contoured for 3" tube. That worked perfectly for me but it won't fit as well on 2.5" tube. Nothing a good welder can't fix.



I fabbed a new 3" draw-thru intake instead. I wanted to do blow-thru but the X1 can't compensate for non-oem MAF tube sizes. TCs should stick with 2.5" and XBs should stick with 3". At least that's true if you want the ECU reading accurate load (a must for AT). With a MT you could get away with it.
Seems like quite a large short coming for ATs. I'm running a modified Turbonetics kit which comes with a 3" charge pipe (MT). I've been considering a blow through set up for a little while since IATs affect the X1 more than MAP based EMS's. I had a custom heat shield fabricated which has helped a reasonable amount, and I'm currently waiting for a vented hood to better improve IATs. I'm still entertaining the idea of blow through, but want to see how everything pans out with the hood and cleaning up the tune and idle/low speeds.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by XPRTc
Seems like quite a large short coming for ATs. I'm running a modified Turbonetics kit which comes with a 3" charge pipe (MT). I've been considering a blow through set up for a little while since IATs affect the X1 more than MAP based EMS's. I had a custom heat shield fabricated which has helped a reasonable amount, and I'm currently waiting for a vented hood to better improve IATs. I'm still entertaining the idea of blow through, but want to see how everything pans out with the hood and cleaning up the tune and idle/low speeds.
If I had known the X1 lacked that capability I never would have bought it. Instead I was told that all I had to do was change the MafID. No one seemed to know at the time, not even APR. It took me a lot of time to figure out exactly what MafID and MafAdj affect and how they interact with Inj offset sizing and InjAdj. There's some wierdness in the APR programming too that had me pulling my hair out at times. E.g., the Tacoma has a 3" MAF ID stock but every APR tune sets MafID to 65mm. I had a 66mm Maf tube but had to set MafID to 75mm to get the most accurate MAF/load match between ECU and X1. Now with a 3" MAF tube I'm finding that I need to set MafID even higher. With MafID set to 75mm I was able to get my ECU controlled fuel trims within 4% +/- and it runs great. However when the X1 takes over it immediately has to add 20% (+/- 5%) fuel to acheive target AFRs. My max MAF is 175 g/s ECU but only 142 g/s X1 at 75 MafID. As I raise MafID, X1 MAF increases and my next step is to find the MafID that matches the ECU. If this works as I think it will, I should be within 5-10% on fuel adaptives before I even touch the InjAdj table. We'll see...

I have the same IAT and heat-soak problems here. Crusing at 60mph my IAT is within a few degrees of ambient but in stop n' go traffic or extended idling, IAT climbs upwards of 140F on a 90F day which oddly causes a lean condition. I'm planning to make a heat shield for the filter and considering powder-coating my pipes for some thermal insulation. For now all I've done was to remove the rear hood gasket. This seems to have helped a little by letting hot air escape at slow speeds and IMO looks a lot better than hood risers. In fact I don't understand why anyone would install hood risers when they could simply pull a rubber gasket off to accomplish the same thing for free in 1 minute.

Anyway, I think a 2.5" blow-thru MAF would work very well for a TC with the X1. Have you had many problems tuning the X1 for a 3" MAF tube considering that the oem MAF tube is only 2.5"? It seems to me that your ECU should be seeing reduced airflow and load which would make it neccesary to add fuel and retard timing. It would wreak havoc on a AT.

Last edited by ScionFred; Sep 3, 2010 at 08:02 PM.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ScionFred
If I had known the X1 lacked that capability I never would have bought it. Instead I was told that all I had to do was change the MafID. No one seemed to know at the time, not even APR. It took me a lot of time to figure out exactly what MafID and MafAdj affect and how they interact with Inj offset sizing and InjAdj. There's some wierdness in the APR programming too that had me pulling my hair out at times. E.g., the Tacoma has a 3" MAF ID stock but every APR tune sets MafID to 65mm. I had a 66mm Maf tube but had to set MafID to 75mm to get the most accurate MAF/load match between ECU and X1. Now with a 3" MAF tube I'm finding that I need to set MafID even higher. With MafID set to 75mm I was able to get my ECU controlled fuel trims within 4% +/- and it runs great. However when the X1 takes over it immediately has to add 20% (+/- 5%) fuel to acheive target AFRs. My max MAF is 175 g/s ECU but only 142 g/s X1 at 75 MafID. As I raise MafID, X1 MAF increases and my next step is to find the MafID that matches the ECU. If this works as I think it will, I should be within 5-10% on fuel adaptives before I even touch the InjAdj table. We'll see...

I have the same IAT and heat-soak problems here. Crusing at 60mph my IAT is within a few degrees of ambient but in stop n' go traffic or extended idling, IAT climbs upwards of 140F on a 90F day which oddly causes a lean condition. I'm planning to make a heat shield for the filter and considering powder-coating my pipes for some thermal insulation. For now all I've done was to remove the rear hood gasket. This seems to have helped a little by letting hot air escape at slow speeds and IMO looks a lot better than hood risers. In fact I don't understand why anyone would install hood risers when they could simply pull a rubber gasket off to accomplish the same thing for free in 1 minute.

Anyway, I think a 2.5" blow-thru MAF would work very well for a TC with the X1. Have you had many problems tuning the X1 for a 3" MAF tube considering that the oem MAF tube is only 2.5"? It seems to me that your ECU should be seeing reduced airflow and load which would make it neccesary to add fuel and retard timing. It would wreak havoc on a AT.
The only issue I really have is the high IATs leaning me out when I'm decelerating or at idle. I once tried to connect some ducting to extend the filter into the fender well but that caused crazy turbulence and crapped on throttle control, so I took that off haha. I fixed a handful of small exhaust and other leaks ie wastegate gaskets, MAF adapter plate, stripped T-bolt clamp, and donut gasket between d-pipe/s-pipe; so I'm waiting for my vented hood to come in so I can head back to Dezod and have Paul clean things up now that IATs and leaks won't cause problems.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 01:12 AM
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syldrin i see your from lakewood....i live in lakewood as well and i have an 05-05 maf plate just lying around you can have. if you want it pm me your info and ill give ya a call.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by XPRTc
The only issue I really have is the high IATs leaning me out when I'm decelerating or at idle. I once tried to connect some ducting to extend the filter into the fender well but that caused crazy turbulence and crapped on throttle control, so I took that off haha. I fixed a handful of small exhaust and other leaks ie wastegate gaskets, MAF adapter plate, stripped T-bolt clamp, and donut gasket between d-pipe/s-pipe; so I'm waiting for my vented hood to come in so I can head back to Dezod and have Paul clean things up now that IATs and leaks won't cause problems.
I strongly suspect that a big factor in our heat-soak problems is mounting our IAT sensors in very thermally conductive AL pipes instead of thermal insulating plastic like the oem config. I've noticed that once my intake pipe is heat-soaked, the MAF/IAT sensor is quite hot to the touch and it takes a long time for OBD IATs to lower even with the hood raised and the actual incoming IAT being immediately reduced.

I don't want to space my MAF sensor out of the tube too far but I'm planning to try some thin plastic or nylon washers between the AL MAF flange and the metal MAF mounting bracket to provide a little thermal insulation. I'm also planning to look for some nylon machine screws to use in place of steel. Some form of heat sleeving or thermal wrap is also on the to-do list. I'll let you know how it works out.

Last edited by ScionFred; Sep 4, 2010 at 04:52 PM.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 05:59 AM
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seems like an awful lot of work....just upgrade intercooler perhaps? maybe even just go thicker and your IAT's will be better.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by gingles
seems like an awful lot of work....just upgrade intercooler perhaps? maybe even just go thicker and your IAT's will be better.
If I'm not mistaken, lowering the actual IAT after the IAT sensor would only make the problem worse. The problem appears to be that the IAT sensor is reading higher IAT than the actual IAT entering the combustion chamber. I'm not sure how else to explain the lean fuel condition.

If the ECU thinks that IAT is 140F but true IAT is 120F, the denser air charge would result in a lean AFR. If the true IAT were hotter than measured by the IAT, the AFR should be richer.

Unless I'm missing something else.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 02:18 PM
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I have quite a few for the 05-06. Made a batch and had a bunch leftover. They are same as STi/WRX so was using them for both setups. Email me at sales@6distribution.com if you want one. I'm sure I can sell them for less than the going rate on ebay.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 04:48 PM
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i need to change that gingles. thank you but i actually live in Vista, California now. i left for bootcamp back in sep of 09 and im stationed out here now.



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