ha, thanks! I was too lazy to fix them.

 

Wow, isn't that gonna be a huge lag???

 

que pasa?!?

lol it shouldn't be bad.... overall flow is better and since it is equal length the exaust pulses will be inline as opposed to a log style manifold... better flow equals more hp... but spool up wont be as good as log style, you are right there...

 

I designed that manifold last summer. We've been working on it for quite some time now. Equal runner top mount baby!

We have the runners tuned to a specific length. Due to Pauls mad math skills we figured out the exact runner length for peak efficiency and torque. I then took care of the design part on the tC. Now Paul is finalizing the build. What a team!

 

awesome work guys thats for sure!!! I will be getting both front and rear endlinks from you soon, I will pm either you or paul before I do though to make sure you still have them before I order... is the price on your site the SLers price???

sorry to threadjack!

 

Damn, I got about 5-6 post....and THREAD JACK!

 

Hmm....My return line is larger than yours, and I have less wiggle room.

 

Pics of yours travis? And are you using the oil pan from zpi? It is also important that the fitting is tapped as high as possible to the oil pan for better drain and prevent back flow.. I just bought a pretapped zpi oil pan and it think its tapped in the middle, just wondering if its the same as your tap or if you had some issues

 

The pan that was on the car is the one that was tapped. I didn't buy an extra one or anything like that. My tap is "sorta" in the middle, but it's slightly above where "middle" is. Hard to tell from the camera angle.

 

That hole is mounted somewhat low. Do you get any smoke at idle or when the car is downhill? That's almost at the oil level line on level ground...

I would definitiely point the line straight in regardless. The 90 degree fitting will not work well for an oil return. Keep it as straight and as cold as possible.

 

^^I will take a side pic today to show a better view of where the tap is.

But to answer the question, I got smoke at idle every once in a blue moon, and only after oil changes.

 

I might just drive over to the Pull-a-part place and pick up another Oil pan, and have it re-tapped a little higher.

____y though, cause I just put 4 qts of Royal P. in....

 

Yeah man I'd reccommend mounting the hole as high as possible. The cost of the oil pan is much less than a new turbo or a even a rebuild kit.

Royal Purple is the ISH! I love that stuff. I went from Mobile 1 full syn 10W-30 to the Royal Purple 10W-30 could actually hear a smoother running engine. I added the Royal Purple syncro shift and it helped a lot as well.

I can tell from that pic exactly how the hole is tapped. It's right up front which is great, as that's the best spot it could be. I would just get as close to that top lip as possible, as long as you can still thead it in and rotate it.

Let us know how it goes! Moving it will definitely fix that smoke problem.

 

Yeah, I switched from Mobile 1 to Royal Purple, but I'm running the 5w 30 RP stuff. I love it though. From research I found out that you should not only prime the turbo during a new turbine install, but after oil changes too. I never primed after oil changes, so I think that is what was causing my smoke after oil changes. It would go away after a while of driving after oil changes.

Hey, I pulled this pic off of Kaeon's DIY for the Stage 0. This is what my setup USE to look like, thus my tap is pretty much the same place. Same L (90 degree) fitting I ran.

 

Yeah it seemed about there.

I guess it's good you learned about priming the turbo, because that would also cause the problem. I think the tap is a little on the low side, but if it's not smoking then I guess you're fine. I wouldn't use the elbow though. Keeping the flow as smooth as possible will perform best. Every little bit counts!

For others that could take what I said the wrong way:
When I say perform best, I do not mean that a straight flow will make the car faster. The oil draining capabilites will perform at it's best if the path has a little restriction as possible. This just means longer turbo life.

 

^^yeah, that's why I'm doing the research and created this thread, to seek ways to help people prolong the life of their turbines. So, thanks for the feedback.

 

Anytime man. Good thread, and I agree people need to understand more of the basic turbo fundamentals.

Should I make another FAQ for turbo questions, mechanics etc?

Just something that explains thermo characteristics, turbo sizes, pipe diameters and their effect, VTA bovs vs recir, open dump etc?

If you think I should let me know. Perhaps we can make a write up.

 

If it would reduce the simple threads, then why not? LOL

 

You know I take care of the visually side of things usually...lol. But yeah, I don't see the harm in creating a FAQ on the following topics you listed.


---not that it would stop the noobs from creating threads anyway...

 

Well every little bit helps. It'd be cool to say... Hey look at the FAQ, rather than hey, use the search button.

Maybe I'll let you help with visuals once the post is near completion lol. I'l be writing it offline as I have time, then post up sometime in the next few days I think.