My 1st tune and the problems to go with it
07-20-2012, 07:23 PM
#1
My 1st tune and the problems to go with it
August 4th is when i will be making the ~7 hour drive to Ptuning. I'm trying to make a checklist of everything to make sure the car runs as good as it can so i have no issues once i get there. Here's a little about my setup.. 07' Stock motor with a used Ptuning kit with a gt3076r, SS fuel return system with dw550s, 3" turbo back exhaust. AEM fic. 1 step colder iridium plugs at .030. Greddy profec b spec 2 EBC. That about rounds up the details of my car, as for the questions now..
1. What should i bring with me.. I have an extra set of plugs im bringing, anything else i should bring just in case?
2. I am currently using a map on the fic that i got from somebody else with basically the same system. WOT i get readings of 10-10.5 afrs. Idle it cant make its mind up so it'll bounce around from from 13.5-15.6, choppy like. And when coming to a stop after driving it sputters before catching itself. Cruising it runs ~14-14.9 My guess is my car runs like this because i have a return fuel system and the other person did not. My Regulator is set to ~45, does that sound about right? Sometimes it also takes a few tries to get my car started after being warmed up. Everything should be smoothed out after my tune correct?
3. I have basically everything plumbed to a vacuum block that needs to be. EBC, boost controller solenoid , fic, fuel regulator, BOV, WG is hooked right to the compressor. Is this the best configuration? Some say the BOV should be connected to the throttle body, does this make a difference? Right now my BOV will flutter now and then, would this make a difference or does the spring just need to be adjusted? I will be doing a boost leak test this weekend. Just have to go buy the stuff to make one
4. CEL turns on and i get p0012. Over retarded cam or something.. Is this caused by the map i have on the fic now from having too much timing pulled? Or is this something else? This could also be the cause of my rough idle i think. I also get the code p0016 now and then, i have a brand new boomslang harness i bought from them like a month ago. So it should have the "resistor mod" in it. Is this because of the p0012 triggers the code because i always just get a "pending" for it when i hook up my obd2 tool.
5. Car has about 350 miles on it since i installed everything. Its safe to drive down right? just runs rich mainly i think. I got ~20mpg on my last tank. Oil should be fine, 10w30 if anyone asks. i have 2 other vehicles so i wont be driving it much till then.
6. Any other things i should look over and make sure its good to go? i just want my car 100% ready to go so I'm not wasting time and money once i get there
1. What should i bring with me.. I have an extra set of plugs im bringing, anything else i should bring just in case?
2. I am currently using a map on the fic that i got from somebody else with basically the same system. WOT i get readings of 10-10.5 afrs. Idle it cant make its mind up so it'll bounce around from from 13.5-15.6, choppy like. And when coming to a stop after driving it sputters before catching itself. Cruising it runs ~14-14.9 My guess is my car runs like this because i have a return fuel system and the other person did not. My Regulator is set to ~45, does that sound about right? Sometimes it also takes a few tries to get my car started after being warmed up. Everything should be smoothed out after my tune correct?
3. I have basically everything plumbed to a vacuum block that needs to be. EBC, boost controller solenoid , fic, fuel regulator, BOV, WG is hooked right to the compressor. Is this the best configuration? Some say the BOV should be connected to the throttle body, does this make a difference? Right now my BOV will flutter now and then, would this make a difference or does the spring just need to be adjusted? I will be doing a boost leak test this weekend. Just have to go buy the stuff to make one
4. CEL turns on and i get p0012. Over retarded cam or something.. Is this caused by the map i have on the fic now from having too much timing pulled? Or is this something else? This could also be the cause of my rough idle i think. I also get the code p0016 now and then, i have a brand new boomslang harness i bought from them like a month ago. So it should have the "resistor mod" in it. Is this because of the p0012 triggers the code because i always just get a "pending" for it when i hook up my obd2 tool.
5. Car has about 350 miles on it since i installed everything. Its safe to drive down right? just runs rich mainly i think. I got ~20mpg on my last tank. Oil should be fine, 10w30 if anyone asks. i have 2 other vehicles so i wont be driving it much till then.
6. Any other things i should look over and make sure its good to go? i just want my car 100% ready to go so I'm not wasting time and money once i get there
Last edited by jchris315; 08-11-2012 at 04:16 AM.
07-22-2012, 12:26 AM
#2
1.Extra plugs are a good idea and full tank of fuel just incase you need do multiple pulls to make sure your tune is spot-on.
2. WOT at 10.0-10.5 is too rich but that's expected since your running a return fuel setup with a different tune. Cruising AFR's look good and normal.
The AEM FIC has the issue of long cranking compared to other engine management's but it's not something to be concerned about. Ptuning will access the cranking and let you know what there opinion is.
3.The best setup is running all sources that need a vacuum signal to and from the vacuum block.
If your BOV flutters the spring needs to be adjusted. Flutter can or will cause compressor surge and that's no good for the life of the turbo.
4.Doing a boost leak test before the initial tune is also a good idea and will save you and the tuner time.
5.Remember to tell the Ptuning tuner what size wastegate spring you are running and what your desired daily PSI is that's important.
6.Ptuning should be able to diag and/or knock out the DTC's.
7.Overall just make sure there are no oil,vacuum,exhaust or fuel leaks.
Check your couplers,gaskets and fittings.
Good luck and keep us posted.
2. WOT at 10.0-10.5 is too rich but that's expected since your running a return fuel setup with a different tune. Cruising AFR's look good and normal.
The AEM FIC has the issue of long cranking compared to other engine management's but it's not something to be concerned about. Ptuning will access the cranking and let you know what there opinion is.
3.The best setup is running all sources that need a vacuum signal to and from the vacuum block.
If your BOV flutters the spring needs to be adjusted. Flutter can or will cause compressor surge and that's no good for the life of the turbo.
4.Doing a boost leak test before the initial tune is also a good idea and will save you and the tuner time.
5.Remember to tell the Ptuning tuner what size wastegate spring you are running and what your desired daily PSI is that's important.
6.Ptuning should be able to diag and/or knock out the DTC's.
7.Overall just make sure there are no oil,vacuum,exhaust or fuel leaks.
Check your couplers,gaskets and fittings.
Good luck and keep us posted.
07-22-2012, 06:31 PM
#4
So i ran a boost leak test last night, ran into a few things.. When i first aired it up it wouldn't build any pressure at all. All the air was just coming out the exhaust. So i put a cap on the tip. (Boost/Exhaust leak test in one?!) But that didn't hold much due to a huge leak coming from the manifold to turbo flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket in there and would that have any effect on spool up?
After that i rotated the crank a little, tried it again and everything sealed! My guess is i had some exhaust valves open? Anyone ever had this happen?
Now that my boost test is all good to go i aired it up to ~18psi and found a small leak in 1 coupler so i tightened that down. Another where ptuning has a small allen head plug right before the throttle body. Fixed that with a little teflon tape. Then on my wastegate where the 2 vacuum lines go. Took care of those with high temp thread sealant.
After all that i took it for a spin to see if there was a difference and did notice an improvement! 2nd gear never really built up much boost, say maybe ~4 but now it was getting into the 7s. I actually had to readjust my boost controller bcuz it was shooting up to 9.5psi. Had to dial it down a little bit. Seems to idle a little smoother too, not so rough.
A VERY IMPORTANT test to do!! I cant imagine how a car would be with a major boost leak
After that i rotated the crank a little, tried it again and everything sealed! My guess is i had some exhaust valves open? Anyone ever had this happen?
Now that my boost test is all good to go i aired it up to ~18psi and found a small leak in 1 coupler so i tightened that down. Another where ptuning has a small allen head plug right before the throttle body. Fixed that with a little teflon tape. Then on my wastegate where the 2 vacuum lines go. Took care of those with high temp thread sealant.
After all that i took it for a spin to see if there was a difference and did notice an improvement! 2nd gear never really built up much boost, say maybe ~4 but now it was getting into the 7s. I actually had to readjust my boost controller bcuz it was shooting up to 9.5psi. Had to dial it down a little bit. Seems to idle a little smoother too, not so rough.
A VERY IMPORTANT test to do!! I cant imagine how a car would be with a major boost leak
08-05-2012, 02:03 PM
#6
Well my dyno session ended up turning into a troubleshooting session. After toan did 2 pulls he knew something wasn't right. It wasn't hitting peak boost till around 5k, he said I should be peaking around the 3500 area. Now is when the troubleshooting started..
First the guys tried fixing my CEL p0012 to see if that was causing the slow spool up. Unhooked my boost controller to run off the wastegate spring. Had it hooked up wrong. Apparently I can't understand japanese diagrams. Wasn't the issue though. Tried a new fic to see if mine was defective. Turned out to be just fine. Then we tried swapping out the vvti actuator to see if that was messing with the cam. Still no luck. Then we proceeded to do a leak test, everything held just fine. Spun the compressor wheel to see if I had bad bearings, it spun fine. By this point everyone was really scratching their heads. Then they decided to take my downpipe off.. and BAM! There's the problem.. somebody had swapped out the 30 for a 35 housing so that explains my lag.
They didn't have a new housing in stock and there's no point in trying to tune on that so that was the end of my 12 hour round trip to Ptuning. I am having them order me the correct housing so I can get that on and get back down there to put some numbers down.
Trip wasn't a total loss in my book, was hoping to leave in the 300s but ran into issues instead. At least they got it figured out.
As for the p0012 they told me there's a little filter in the back of the motor I should try taking out to clean it. I'll probably try that and if that doesn't fix it i'll be taking it to the dealer to get it looked at.
I highly recommend these guys, they were a great help and very informative. Much thanks to toan and the Ptuning crew that worked on my car!
First the guys tried fixing my CEL p0012 to see if that was causing the slow spool up. Unhooked my boost controller to run off the wastegate spring. Had it hooked up wrong. Apparently I can't understand japanese diagrams. Wasn't the issue though. Tried a new fic to see if mine was defective. Turned out to be just fine. Then we tried swapping out the vvti actuator to see if that was messing with the cam. Still no luck. Then we proceeded to do a leak test, everything held just fine. Spun the compressor wheel to see if I had bad bearings, it spun fine. By this point everyone was really scratching their heads. Then they decided to take my downpipe off.. and BAM! There's the problem.. somebody had swapped out the 30 for a 35 housing so that explains my lag.
They didn't have a new housing in stock and there's no point in trying to tune on that so that was the end of my 12 hour round trip to Ptuning. I am having them order me the correct housing so I can get that on and get back down there to put some numbers down.
Trip wasn't a total loss in my book, was hoping to leave in the 300s but ran into issues instead. At least they got it figured out.
As for the p0012 they told me there's a little filter in the back of the motor I should try taking out to clean it. I'll probably try that and if that doesn't fix it i'll be taking it to the dealer to get it looked at.
I highly recommend these guys, they were a great help and very informative. Much thanks to toan and the Ptuning crew that worked on my car!
Last edited by jchris315; 08-10-2012 at 10:06 PM. Reason: Added picture
08-07-2012, 04:52 PM
#7
So while trying to figure out the p0012 code I came across a few things. First I unhooked the fic and just ran my car on the stock ecu. Drove it around the block ~7 miles and then let it idle for about a half hour. MIL never came on, did have a too rich code that was "pending" nothing major. Expected that..
Then I rehooked up the fic started the car and no MIL but I immediately had the p0016 "pending" cleared it all and took it for the same exact trip around the block. Let it idle. Checked for codes, now I have the p0012 again. Shut it off, turn it back on and now the MIL is on for the p0012.
Could my harness be the cause of this? Its a brand new one I got from boomslang. Definitely has the resistors. Should I try taking them out or just one?
Another thing is that when I have the fic hooked up it idles ~150 more than stock. My egts are also 200° hotter. I wouldn't think that this is how its supposed to be. Is there some settings I need to tweak on the software or the maps?
Somebody has to have some knowledge on this. Trying to get up and running here!!
Then I rehooked up the fic started the car and no MIL but I immediately had the p0016 "pending" cleared it all and took it for the same exact trip around the block. Let it idle. Checked for codes, now I have the p0012 again. Shut it off, turn it back on and now the MIL is on for the p0012.
Could my harness be the cause of this? Its a brand new one I got from boomslang. Definitely has the resistors. Should I try taking them out or just one?
Another thing is that when I have the fic hooked up it idles ~150 more than stock. My egts are also 200° hotter. I wouldn't think that this is how its supposed to be. Is there some settings I need to tweak on the software or the maps?
Somebody has to have some knowledge on this. Trying to get up and running here!!
08-07-2012, 08:46 PM
#9
Wouldn't I have gotten some kind of code for it when I was just on the stock ecu? Everything ran fine just on the ecu, idled better and lower temps.
But tonight i'll be taking my turbo off and checking that out while the cars on stands.
What about my higher idle and egts? This all happens only when I hook the fic back up
But tonight i'll be taking my turbo off and checking that out while the cars on stands.
What about my higher idle and egts? This all happens only when I hook the fic back up
08-08-2012, 12:55 AM
#10
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: PTuning
Posts: 1,902
Wouldn't I have gotten some kind of code for it when I was just on the stock ecu? Everything ran fine just on the ecu, idled better and lower temps.
But tonight i'll be taking my turbo off and checking that out while the cars on stands.
What about my higher idle and egts? This all happens only when I hook the fic back up
But tonight i'll be taking my turbo off and checking that out while the cars on stands.
What about my higher idle and egts? This all happens only when I hook the fic back up
08-08-2012, 12:16 PM
#11
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: PTuning
Posts: 1,902
just thought of another test. The FIC usually comes with a bypass plug, plug that up in place of the FIC. If code occurs with bypass plug attached to p&p harness, but not with straight ecu... it's the p&p harness.
08-08-2012, 04:26 PM
#12
Hey justin thanks for the help! Appreciate you guys helping to pinpoint what was up with my car. I believe toan tried hooking up a new fic to see if mine was defective and it still put out the same code. Im leaning torwards the harness but ya never know. I bought the fic used and didn't get the bypass plugand with it. But I did buy the harness from Ptuning. I am supposed to be getting a call from you guys today about what to do about my turbo issue and if I do need to send it back to you I will put the harness with it. Want me to send the fic too? I have other vehicles I can drive so its no big deal. What is causing my higher idle? Fic or maybe the code?!
08-09-2012, 04:19 PM
#14
That's what I figured since we already tried a new fic. I think its something in the harness. Its the only time I get the codes and higher/rougher idle. I'll send it in as soon as I hear on what to do with my turbo. Instead of sending 2 packages. Would removing the resistors effect any "Warranty" or anything?
08-10-2012, 09:46 PM
#15
Well i had a bypass harness shipped over night, got it this afternoon and i hooked it all up and car runs like stock. No codes besides going rich now and then. Pretty sure its the map i have on my fic. I'm almost positive there is to much timing being pulled during idle. That explains the "over retarded cam" code i get when its hooked up. Now i have to make sense of the fic tuning procedure 
08-11-2012, 03:49 AM
#16
Well i cant figure this ____ out! Zeroed the ignition map, plus I tried a few different base maps.. I get ignition readings of 3-8% (advanced) and idle ~100-200 rpms higher whenever im connected to the fic which causes my p0012 to trip
Plug the bypass harness in car acts like it should, idles ~700 and ign. readings of ~10-14%
Dont know what else i can do
Plug the bypass harness in car acts like it should, idles ~700 and ign. readings of ~10-14%
Dont know what else i can do
08-13-2012, 03:48 PM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 5
I have a TRD supercharger perfect condition for sale if anyone is interested let me know spread the word..
August 4th is when i will be making the ~7 hour drive to Ptuning. I'm trying to make a checklist of everything to make sure the car runs as good as it can so i have no issues once i get there. Here's a little about my setup.. 07' Stock motor with a used Ptuning kit with a gt3076r, SS fuel return system with dw550s, 3" turbo back exhaust. AEM fic. 1 step colder iridium plugs at .030. Greddy profec b spec 2 EBC. That about rounds up the details of my car, as for the questions now..
1. What should i bring with me.. I have an extra set of plugs im bringing, anything else i should bring just in case?
2. I am currently using a map on the fic that i got from somebody else with basically the same system. WOT i get readings of 10-10.5 afrs. Idle it cant make its mind up so it'll bounce around from from 13.5-15.6, choppy like. And when coming to a stop after driving it sputters before catching itself. Cruising it runs ~14-14.9 My guess is my car runs like this because i have a return fuel system and the other person did not. My Regulator is set to ~45, does that sound about right? Sometimes it also takes a few tries to get my car started after being warmed up. Everything should be smoothed out after my tune correct?
3. I have basically everything plumbed to a vacuum block that needs to be. EBC, boost controller solenoid , fic, fuel regulator, BOV, WG is hooked right to the compressor. Is this the best configuration? Some say the BOV should be connected to the throttle body, does this make a difference? Right now my BOV will flutter now and then, would this make a difference or does the spring just need to be adjusted? I will be doing a boost leak test this weekend. Just have to go buy the stuff to make one
4. CEL turns on and i get p0012. Over retarded cam or something.. Is this caused by the map i have on the fic now from having too much timing pulled? Or is this something else? This could also be the cause of my rough idle i think. I also get the code p0016 now and then, i have a brand new boomslang harness i bought from them like a month ago. So it should have the "resistor mod" in it. Is this because of the p0012 triggers the code because i always just get a "pending" for it when i hook up my obd2 tool.
5. Car has about 350 miles on it since i installed everything. Its safe to drive down right? just runs rich mainly i think. I got ~20mpg on my last tank. Oil should be fine, 10w30 if anyone asks. i have 2 other vehicles so i wont be driving it much till then.
6. Any other things i should look over and make sure its good to go? i just want my car 100% ready to go so I'm not wasting time and money once i get there
1. What should i bring with me.. I have an extra set of plugs im bringing, anything else i should bring just in case?
2. I am currently using a map on the fic that i got from somebody else with basically the same system. WOT i get readings of 10-10.5 afrs. Idle it cant make its mind up so it'll bounce around from from 13.5-15.6, choppy like. And when coming to a stop after driving it sputters before catching itself. Cruising it runs ~14-14.9 My guess is my car runs like this because i have a return fuel system and the other person did not. My Regulator is set to ~45, does that sound about right? Sometimes it also takes a few tries to get my car started after being warmed up. Everything should be smoothed out after my tune correct?
3. I have basically everything plumbed to a vacuum block that needs to be. EBC, boost controller solenoid , fic, fuel regulator, BOV, WG is hooked right to the compressor. Is this the best configuration? Some say the BOV should be connected to the throttle body, does this make a difference? Right now my BOV will flutter now and then, would this make a difference or does the spring just need to be adjusted? I will be doing a boost leak test this weekend. Just have to go buy the stuff to make one
4. CEL turns on and i get p0012. Over retarded cam or something.. Is this caused by the map i have on the fic now from having too much timing pulled? Or is this something else? This could also be the cause of my rough idle i think. I also get the code p0016 now and then, i have a brand new boomslang harness i bought from them like a month ago. So it should have the "resistor mod" in it. Is this because of the p0012 triggers the code because i always just get a "pending" for it when i hook up my obd2 tool.
5. Car has about 350 miles on it since i installed everything. Its safe to drive down right? just runs rich mainly i think. I got ~20mpg on my last tank. Oil should be fine, 10w30 if anyone asks. i have 2 other vehicles so i wont be driving it much till then.
6. Any other things i should look over and make sure its good to go? i just want my car 100% ready to go so I'm not wasting time and money once i get there
08-13-2012, 08:45 PM
#19
Yes it was a brand new harness I got from boomslang a month ago. Has the resistors as you can see.
Will be putting my stock injectors back in to see if it makes any difference. If not I'm ditching the piggyback scene and going standalone
Will be putting my stock injectors back in to see if it makes any difference. If not I'm ditching the piggyback scene and going standalone
08-14-2012, 02:42 AM
#20
Upon swapping injectors i came across something..
Notice anything? The 3rd injector is missing something in the O ring area. Anyone have any ideas on how this would effect my engine? Could it have fallen out somehow.. i tapped on the other 3 to see if they could come out and they weren't moving at all.
I even took apart my return to see if it fell in the rail maybe or somehow got stuck in it. Checked my DW box they came in too just to see if I missed something while installing them.
Well anyways put everything back together with the stock injectors in their place. First with the bypass plug hooked up, ran perfect. Put a map on the FIC with 0s in the idle area and sure enough my ignition timings were being cut by ~40-50%
Notice anything? The 3rd injector is missing something in the O ring area. Anyone have any ideas on how this would effect my engine? Could it have fallen out somehow.. i tapped on the other 3 to see if they could come out and they weren't moving at all.
I even took apart my return to see if it fell in the rail maybe or somehow got stuck in it. Checked my DW box they came in too just to see if I missed something while installing them.
Well anyways put everything back together with the stock injectors in their place. First with the bypass plug hooked up, ran perfect. Put a map on the FIC with 0s in the idle area and sure enough my ignition timings were being cut by ~40-50%