if the car is tuned properly its not going to stall. It all depends on the tune, tuner, and type of management.

 

Hearing problems like this make me think I need another year or so before I can drop 4G into a turbo for my TC. I just got a Flyin Miata FM1 kit (8psi) for $1,000. Half the components are used, but with a Garret Ball Bearing Turbo, I should be OK...
Good luck with that, it looks like you just need to re-tighten the bolts and/or use better gaskets.

 

Ive yet to stall, smoke or have any problems with my kit at all.

 

What are some of the causes for your boost to sound like it's not that strong, kinda like it is suffocating ? Towards boost my vehicle may stutter and the boost doesn't pick up too strongly.. No check engine lights are on though. Could it just be a tuning issue for that ?

 

check your plugs...also check your vac lines and make sure nothing slipped off a tee

 

On another note...

White smoke usually means coolant is leaking. This could be due to head lift (which I doubt in this case) or a leaking/blown head gasket. I hope it's neither and it's just a smog issue but just to give you a heads up. Check your overflow tank after long highway drives and make sure it's not drasticly changing levels or boiling.

The 4k richening issue is normal if you don't tune it correctly. The OEM tune dips rich at 4k. As you dyno tune, you will find that you need to make a dip (to the leaner side) on the tune at 4k to balance this out. This is why our maps are flat accross the entire rpm band.

What kind of timing is being pulled on the car? You still runing the base 8psi? What's the actual AFR the whole time?

91 octane, high heat, and stock timing could be a big part of this issue.

 

If it stutters check your Blow off valve to and make sure its to the correct adjustment. Last time I had it to loose and I was just leaking boost like crazy. My car would stutter and hit it really weak too

 

This may sound weird.. but sometimes the car drives great, then other times it drives like total crap with all the problems mentioned.

To answer the questions - everything is the stock tune that came with the kit. So it's stock timing and 8 psi.

Here's a real rough photo of one dyno run i had to measure the air/fuel :

The X-axis is the rpm's measured from 1.5-6.5 in increments of 0.5

The left Y-axis is the HP measured from 20-220 in increments of 20

The right Y-axis is the Air/fuel Ratio from 10.0-18.0 in increments of 0.5

 

Yes you definately need to be retuned. This isn't what's affecting all your issues but it's still nice to do later.

Have you tried an OBD2 scanner to see what it says?

 

It really seems that you have a leak somewhere after the maf. It looks like the car runs a bit lean while in vacuum, and then pig rich after a certain boost level, which would equate to air leaking out under boost after it has been metered by the maf. Retighten all clamps on the turbo piping. You could also try spraying a can of carb cleaner at every connection of the piping while the car is idleing. Listen for changes in idle. If you hear something then you likely have found a leak.

This is just my guess from seeing your afr's

 

I dont have any check engine lights on. The previous one i had was when the o2 extender was on the downpipe. After switching the extender's position to the factory pipe and reseting the ecu the check engine light disappered and has yet to return. If there is no check engine light then the obII wont read anything.. Is that true or not.. or could it still return something?

 

that dyno looks a lot like mines too, where did you get dynoed at? Ill find my dyno real quick to compare, i think i got those numbers too...

 

I can't even tell what the numbers are... is that 220ish whp?

 

try 205 .. ouch

 

the car needs to be retuned - i small retune on something that already was tuned cost around $150 here. At that cost its worth spending to get the car to run better and prob gain another 40hp(ish).

 

Definately get a new tune, or send your Unichip back to Turbonetics and get a new one.. Call Reggie ASAP.

You will be taken care of.

 

since you have a dyno i would call them and talk to whoever ...then ask what their email is and email them the dyno while you are on the phone w/ them so you have proof of a bad tune.. You spent $5k - either ask how they can make your day better or go to a shop and talk to guys that know their stuff. If you get it tuned on a dyno thats whats going to get yout he most power for your car setup ....but I dont know what your in the market for since you just put out a few $$ for the turbo setup.

 

I talked to turbonetics and sending a new unichip wouldnt work, because they want the old chip sent to them first... If I do this the car will just have to sit and not be moved.. Also they believe it is an issue with the setup, but i've checked everything..

 

What are your current issues?

 

For right now there are no cels. Basically the previous chart the air fuel is an issue, with stalling out.. After hitting the boost and pressing down the clutch the car may stall. On page 1 there is a picture of an exhuast leak on the turbo that is another issue but i'm not to sure that is really affecting the setup a great deal. Last issue was when it was smoking, but I havent noticed it recently, I check everytime i start the car. Then all I need is an oil change..

I've checked the vaccuum lines and intercooler piping as best I could, I'll have to go through and maybe even redo it, but that will have to be saved for a weekend where i have time and can get to tools to do it..

For driving, when I do drive the turbo seems to stutter in boost or getting to boost. Other times it may drive flawless though.. It's weird. But all in all, the turbo doesnt seem like it's working strong at all, at times it feels like my car is dying when approaching boost.