who said that

 

anyways op check the easy stuff first and see what you come up with. also more info would help aswell such as
1. was this a sudden occurance (meaning everything was fine then all of a sudden this)
2. how are vac lines routed
3. what size and type vac lines are you using on your bov
4. do you know your fuel trims
5. better description of occurance and how often
6. what do your spark plugs look like
7. are you able to datalog the occurance, if so can you do a screen shot of it or post a link to a download for it
8. do you have a boost gauge that shows vac if so what are the readings for idle
9. do you smell raw fuel at idle or during/after boost
10. list the things you have checked so far
11. what engine managment are you using (dont think i read what you have and if youv already stated then i appologize)

 

i had the same problem.. it was my BOV.... unplug the vaccum line going to ur BOV and if the car idle goes back to normal then bam problem solved ....same issue i had.....

 

thanks for the help guys, sry ive been gone skiing all day. Ill get more info tomorrow, but yeah its not mid boost or anything. IT will spool and hit 9psi fine then as soon as I let off the throttle boom it died

1. was this a sudden occurance (meaning everything was fine then all of a sudden this)

very sudden, was doing great, then it did this. Tightened some clamps let it sit a day, did fine for awhile then boom really sudden again. Did start as tempatures started to fall below 25

2. how are vac lines routed

from the TB plate and t-d off from there, ill get pics tomorrow

3. what size and type vac lines are you using on your bov

using normal rubber vac line in 3/32 I think that or 1/8

4. do you know your fuel trims

no

5. better description of occurance and how often

has only happened twice, first time hit boost a few times, then car started to idle funny, and go lean, pulled over checked for a vac leak, didnt see anything. Decided to take the car home. On the way home it started acting normal again, I hit boost, it spooled to 9psi fine, then as soon as I got off the gas it died like I had blown off a charge pipe. Restarted the car, same weird idle took it home. Tightened the clamps let it sit a day. Ran fine, drive about 30mins away boosting some, watched a movie came out (17degrees) go it home boosting some on the way home, when I got close to home it did the weird idle again, but wasnt irratic just lean, hit boost AFR's were normal. Let off the gas and boom died like I lost a charge pipe. Got it home tried to start it this morning wouldnt hold an idle and just died, but was out of time so im gonna work more tomorrow

the second time it happened was also after my f/ic box dropped out of my dash, I have it on that little panel under the glove box and that slipped down so it might not be plugged in well. I can recheck that easily

6. what do your spark plugs look like

fine they are brand new

7. are you able to datalog the occurance, if so can you do a screen shot of it or post a link to a download for it

no I wasnt able to

8. do you have a boost gauge that shows vac if so what are the readings for idle

around 15 what they have always been

9. do you smell raw fuel at idle or during/after boost

some, but im running an open exhaust so I smelled raw fuel NA

10. list the things you have checked so far

nothing yet, other than all the charge pipes and the vac lines

11. what engine managment are you using (dont think i read what you have and if youv already stated then i appologize)

aem f/ic __________________

 

you just answered your own problem......idle vac on our car is 18-22


you say your at 15 so u have a leak go find it

 

vac depends on a lot of things, it has always been 15 on mine since the tuning was done 20 is perfect and rare to see, my gauge is about 1 psi off too so it is around 18

 

I agree with cburglb38 on this one, vac should be around 19-20 at idle....i have to assume you have a leak or your gauge is off.

also if your running off of the TB make sure its not on the line of the vsv, that can make for some inconsistant readings, try rerouting to brake booster line located on the firewall.

its possible that low vac is screwing with how the bov operates or bov is damaged.

 

Yeah I'm gonna jump on this train as well....my vacuum is always above 20. drops to like 15 if I'm in Drive, Heat is on(front and rear) and other crap, but its almost always above 20, hot or cold.

I also believe it has been brought up to check your anti-stall setting??

 

With an auto with A/C on you will hit 16 at the lowest for vacuum. Run your lines off the brake booster it is a much more stable source of vacuum. The VSV pulses and will throw off the vacuum, this can cause your BOV to stick open at times (happened to me again, lol). You for sure have a vacuum leak somewhere and it sounds like it is on or near your BOV, possible on the line to the AEM (check if it is pinched). Might wanna rerun the whole set up and tap it from the brake booster; vacuum lines are easy and don't take long to replace.

EDIT: It is worth it to get a vacuum block, they are hella cheap.
http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Des...niversal%20Fit
Also Dezod.com (site was down when I posted this)

 

yeah now it when I try to start it, it will rev up to 1700 rpm for about 15seconds then just die not studder just off,

and I called my tuner talked to him, he said to check the line to the f/ic and i felt were it comes through the firewall and I swear I felt a hole, but i took it out and cant find one, so it might have just been pinched flat

I have a vac block and its going between the BB line as soon as I get back to raleigh I just didnt have time to get it in before

 

Yea if it was pinched that was it. Might be worth it to replace the whole line with a beefier line, something reinforced like a small diameter fuel line or transmission line. Like I said before it is really quick to change out the lines. Even if it was pinched you should have had better vacuum so there still is an issue. EVERY LINE should have a clamp connector or at the bare minimum a zip tie to hold it in. Gotta think they are being sucked in at times then blown out with high force, things can come loose if they are not secured in place.

 

well replaced the line, and it idled alittle longer, and revved to keep itself alive the instead of just shutting off it shudder and died

now I took off my BOV and it was missing a screw and all of them were loose so I tightened all the screws and added loctite and replaced the missing screw and I hope this fixes it

 

like i said before it can be more than one thing going on here, in my exp the ramping in rpms and dieing out on ya sounds sooo much like a large vac leak or maf unpluged (possibly damaged). maybe worth it to stick some tape over the bov to sorta seal it from venting while in idle (please no boost, just idle it for a bit). The pinched line if it is one normally wouldnt do this but still is something to look into and fix. Check connection to maf. The fic will read input and output of the maf so it would be well worth your while to download the aem logger (its part of the aem pro software, its been a while but ill post up a link). You dont seem to be a persone to want to deal with the tuning aspect so i wont go into detail unless ya want and ill give more details about logging and such.

seeing is how we have a bit more info from ya i try and hook ya up with a short list of things to look for.

1. maf connection
2. maf clean
3. maf seated
4. pipe that maf is located on sealed and tight
5. all charge pipes sealed and tight
6. bov seated and sealed

if you happen to have a buddy with a same year tc (05 maf and 06 maf can swap out. 07-10 uses the same maf as each other but will not swap out with 05-06) swap maf with him/her if you have gone through the list and still cant find the answer. try different bovs maybe.

vac readings are kinda off since day one so it will be worth it to check the following

also might want to dig through your old paper work for your bov, wastegate, fic, ect to make sure your using the proper size vac lines.
check pcv valve for leakage, iv seen it a couple of times they will gum up and stick open leaking boost (just a thought for later)
reroute vac lines to brake booster.

hope this stuff helps ya out and wish ya the best of luck.

 

yeah, all the bov screws were loose so im waiting on the loctite now, and its dark now. Im hopeing that will fix it.

car was tuned on a dyno like 3 weeks ago, talked to my tuner some today and he says it sounds like something with the wiring not having a good connection or allowing the maf signal to read correctly.

if its my boomslang harness im gonna be ____ed since this is my second one, and ive only had it a year

 

that sounds like a good start, lets see what happens. good luck

 

thanks man, if I can get it tomorrow its going to the shop I gotta get it fixed to get back to school

 

Hope that fixed it!

 

screw on the bov causes a big leak makes ur vac lik 13 s yes that was your problem

 

ok so I fixed the BOV and it stayed running idles fine still alittle lean, and a bad vac reading, still have a small gap where the charge pipe hits the tb so I got a band clamp and Im gonna sync it down tight and hope that gets rid of all of them

 

whats the vac reading now at idle?

you said before you were idle at 15inhg, is that correct?