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Scion tC 1G Forced Induction Turbo and supercharger applications...

New H-Beam connecting rods courtesy of Dezod Motorsports

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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 10:42 PM
  #61  
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Noob question, I google image searched and can't find the difference. What is the difference between and "a" and "h"? Performance, longevity, the abililty to handle more stress?
Old Sep 3, 2007 | 11:03 PM
  #62  
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yea man definatly go with a full standalone AEM would be great since it's plug and play. you could squeezedefinatly some horses with the e-manage.

like i understand H-beam can handle more stress then the A- beam. But i am not sure how much more!
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 07:47 AM
  #63  
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an a beam rod has more of a taper to it going from the main journal to the pin journal it gets some what smaller. An H beam rod stays the same width all the way to the top.


http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...beam+rod&gbv=2

The first picture is an A beam. the second picture is an H beam. The fifth picture is an I beam rod.
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 01:47 PM
  #64  
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Thanks turbogsxr759 for answering.

Yes these are back in stock as we have been blowing through these sets...
Old Sep 4, 2007 | 04:24 PM
  #65  
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FYI thanks to the overwhelming response on these rods. We are down to 5 sets off of the 1st production run. So those who do not want to wait......order up!
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 03:43 PM
  #66  
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i am seriously thinking about ordering a set of these. these would be perfect for my 500hp build, and i'll just put my A beam rods in my wifes car.. then all we'll need is pistons for her car, and a boos controller =)
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 03:58 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by krazylowgsx
i am seriously thinking about ordering a set of these. these would be perfect for my 500hp build, and i'll just put my A beam rods in my wifes car.. then all we'll need is pistons for her car, and a boos controller =)
In stock for the rods. We have you covered. Call or order online.
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 06:08 PM
  #68  
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How much normally would you expect a shop to charge for installing these?
do you think this is all that is neccessary to push 450hp? Or would pistons and bearings be neccessary as well?
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Meaty
How much normally would you expect a shop to charge for installing these?
do you think this is all that is neccessary to push 450hp? Or would pistons and bearings be neccessary as well?
If you read a few post back it explains that the rating can't be put to a number but you should be fine for 450whp. I would also get the pistons and bearings are good to replace while you're at it.

As for the cost to install, someone I know just called locally to a good shop and they said it would be about $1500 with install and tune but said it maybe a high quote that he has to talk to the tuner.
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 10:43 PM
  #70  
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Sup PAUL! Its Jake in AZ. Joe did my turbo and it is awesome. Thanks for every thing. Im planning on ordering Pistons and Rods eventually so I can run more Boost. How much for me to do it with my set up. Also how much does it usually cost to get them installed somewhere. Dezod is the Best out there. My turbo kit is Bad A$$! lol
Old Sep 5, 2007 | 11:00 PM
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First... may be a noob question, may not, but could you show me or direct me towards some information on how to notch the block. I can picture it in my mind (basically making room for the connecting rod by removing/notching/cutting some of the lower sleeve of the cylinder but I was just wondering if there is a fine art in it or is it just a mark and cut sort of thing?? thanks for any info, greatly appreciated! The rod's look great, probably will add these to the list...
Old Sep 6, 2007 | 01:59 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by BMTWhiteScionTc
Sup PAUL! Its Jake in AZ. Joe did my turbo and it is awesome. Thanks for every thing. Im planning on ordering Pistons and Rods eventually so I can run more Boost. How much for me to do it with my set up. Also how much does it usually cost to get them installed somewhere. Dezod is the Best out there. My turbo kit is Bad A$$! lol
Hey Jake....Welcome to the dark side.

Anyway, these rods are bottomed out on cost...so the $479 for the set is your cost. Pistons have been a hot commodity and $599 there.

Enjoy that kit!
Old Sep 6, 2007 | 02:00 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by t_urbo_C_harged
First... may be a noob question, may not, but could you show me or direct me towards some information on how to notch the block. I can picture it in my mind (basically making room for the connecting rod by removing/notching/cutting some of the lower sleeve of the cylinder but I was just wondering if there is a fine art in it or is it just a mark and cut sort of thing?? thanks for any info, greatly appreciated! The rod's look great, probably will add these to the list...
For liability reasons of the company, I can not. Please consult an engine builder.
Old Sep 6, 2007 | 06:25 PM
  #74  
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This is something you can do yourself but i wouldnt recommend it. You have to make sure you dont go to deep or to shallow. The rod needs to have .050 clearance from the block at any point. Also if you do this yourself you take the chance of slipping and hitting the cylinder wall and messing up you block. It would be your best bet to take your block to someone (that knows what they are doing) that has a verticle end mill and let them do it.
Old Sep 6, 2007 | 10:17 PM
  #75  
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thanks for the info!
Old Sep 7, 2007 | 02:00 PM
  #76  
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Still in stock!!!!
Old Sep 7, 2007 | 10:04 PM
  #77  
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Bump fo yo mama!
Old Sep 10, 2007 | 02:09 PM
  #78  
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Werd. Let's move these!!!!
Old Sep 14, 2007 | 01:36 PM
  #79  
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Bumpy Bump
Old Sep 14, 2007 | 02:01 PM
  #80  
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great buy! i would ... but after talking with the gentlemen of dezod... im probably going to need a new tubine housing and manifold .... sstill the rods are DIRT cheap.

if money grew on trees, id be a farmer.



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